New Life Games Tech Forums

First of all I just want to say this is my first topic and my first real post (other than the welcome wagon).  :88-

Anyway, I picked up a 3-coin Haywire machine last weekend that needs a lot of work. I'm starting to strip it down and check components one at a time. Out of curiosity, is there a flow diagram by any chance?

Also, does anyone happen to have a clear/readable schematic? I found the free downloadable online but, when you zoom in it's kind of hard to read. Well, I guess that's it for now. I'll try and post some pictures up as soon as I get a few decent one's taken. Off to go test the transformer voltages! Gotta start somewhere right?  :96-

Actually, first thing to do is check for loose coins everywhere.
When your sure you don't have any laying around, power up the machine.

Next tell us what you machine does when power is applied.
No need in tearing down a machine until you know the symptoms.

Yeah I should have provided more info to begin with.
Powered the unit up and all i have are fluorescent lights. Checked the fusing and the 8amp was blown. replaced it but still nothing else is powering up. no power to the coin comparitor, nothing to the reels, or coin-mech-thing (noob brain lock sorry). :279- The game has had some water damage so there are plenty of terminals that are corroded etc... I figured it wouldn't hurt to start checking it out piece by piece. I was going to ring-out the wiring harnesses and check for broken/bad wires. The boards don't look too bad. I don't see any evidence of burn marks, bad components, burnt traces, lifted pads, no hairline cracks etc..

So for now I decided to start with the transformer. Testing the transformer (wired for 115vac primary) On the secondary pins:
4 - 25.2vac
5 - 12.6
6 - RET
7 - com
8 - 7.91
9 - 8.9
I'm assuming this is normal (or at least within range)?
I still have some cleaning to do on the molex connectors heads before I start ringing out the wires. I don't mind taking things apart it will be a good way for me to learn the wiring and how the machine works.  :291- I figured once I rule out wiring i'll slowly start connecting things back up and see if I can pinpoint any issues. Once i know the game works I'll strip it back down and start the restoration process.

The first place I'd look is the connector mentioned in the following post:

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14163.0)

As mentioned above, first check to make sure that there aren't any coins or stray bits of metal inside the machine before you connect the power again.

Thanks for the post. I found that topic earlier last night but, i don't see any problem with this connector...yet. I did find that two of the fuse holders were bad. Picking up replacements tonight. Went ahead and bench tested the hopper last night and it was locked up tight! LOL! The coil would pull in but there was no movement at all. Took it apart and luckily the gearbox looked good internally. The grease looks like it kept everything in fair shape. Come to find out it was the circular disc that actually locked up. After some more lube and elbow grease it's free and spinning with no problem. Going to finish cleaning, re-lube, and reassemble for another bench testing! :)

Well, the hopper started to spin but, it didn't last long. looks like I will have to replace the motor/gearsbox assembly.  :8-
And as I feared, I still don't have any power to the machine. I've checked the transformer, fuses, J8 power plug, cracked/burnt traces, missing components, etc...but still nothing. :60-
Do all components have to be connected for the unit to even power up?? I don't have another cabinet to try the boards in so, I'm kind of at a stand-still/dilema. Do I keep going with the parts that I have or do I start ordering all new replacement parts (new MB, processor board, hopper, etc..)? Now I'm wondering if the chips even work....can these be purchased as well?
 :99- :33-

Depends...I'd say you need a battery to start the car.  :72- ( just kidding ya...)



In an S+, you need the power supply to work for sure.

You don't need...>>>
The hopper...pull it out.
The 3 fluorescent lights...unplug them for now.
Bill acceptor...none in NON-Embedded S+'s.
Mechanical counters.
Topper light/candle.
Strips.
Glass.
Cabinet.
Door optics, belly door optics, hopper optics, cash door optics - can all be bypassed.



What you DO need:
Power cord.
Power supply with 3 good quick-blow fuses.
Power switch.
Motherboard and 6-pin power harness.
MPU with chips.
Button deck and display panel.
Reel tray and reels...you need clean reel optics to work too.
Coin mech and coin-in optics.
A door optics bypass cherry switch at least.

That is a bare-bone's machine that will work - even laid out on a bare floor.
It's also all of the components of my test Frankenstein machine
but I have the 2-stage candle so I can see different events.

Ok, I noticed first off that the optic on the cabinet side is completely missing. wiring is still there but, the optic is gone. But before I rush out to the internet to buy another one how do i need to wire the cherry switch? Do I just need to use the RED cabinet optic wire & the purple/blk from the door to a N.O. contact on a switch? Do the ground wires from both plugs need to be connected? Sorry....I'm a complete NOOB.  :72-

Basically, the green wire on the door goes to the red on the cabinet-side.
Disregard any colors wires on the optic side AT the Molex connection point.
Be concerned only with the pointy side of the 2-pin Molex connector harness that runs back to the MPU.
They must connect into each other to fool the MPU into thinking the door is physically closed.

The reason I'm saying to "disregard" the colors of the optic wires that come out of the lamps themselves -
is because they are as follows and confuse the heck out of everybody...!!!  :5-

1).The door optic wires that come out of the emitter lamp are black & red with the black going to the pointy side of the Molex.
2).The cabinet optic wires that come out of the receiver lamp are white &red with the white wire going to the pointy side of the Molex.

See the confusion?

The only reason they used the white and black wires was to differentiate which optic was an emitter optic
and which one was a receiver optic.

Well before I hooked up the switch i tried to test both the cabinet an door side wires for voltage but, I wasn't getting any kind of reading at all. I checked the power supply, fuses, and the J8 connector an everything seems ok. Dead board(s)?