New Life Games Tech Forums

Trying to get a DD DLX going. Replaced the coin battery. Now I get the following;
RAM ERROR
Game Eprom CRC Mismatch
Non-Recoverable Data Error
Critical Data Will Be lost
Press Test Switch 2-3 seconds
Please Close Main Door

Tried Optic bypass, replaced CPU board
I see a pulsating voltage at each door optic.
I am currently stuck.

optics may be operational, but not aligned. Check alignment when door is fully latched. If it doesn't work, you may want to look at the thread on how to permanantly bypass the S2000 door optics.

The optics are bypassed, did not fix the problem. thanks

Looks like you did everything right, but when you close the main door you have to wait for a while. then you will get another " Call Att." error, open door to the god awful alarm, turn the key and follow VFD instructions. I've sometimes had to do this 3 times.

If your seeing pulsating voltage from each door optics, you need your eyes checked. One is a transmitter and the other is a receiver. If you have the optics bypassed there is no need for them to be connected.

Thanks for the reply. I can tell by looking at the DVM the voltage feeding the optics is not steady(pure DC). But, on to your recomendations. I had the machine sitting in the please close door state for well over an hour while I was doing other things.

Pull your MPU and look at the condition of the green 3 cell battery. There's a trace on the board for the door optics connection that runs underneath that battery and with those batteries being prone to leaking, sometimes that trace gets damaged and throws up door open errors or won't acknowledge the door is closed.

The green battery has been removed on both  of the MPUs that I have. Do you know the name of the signal?

Was there any damage to the board where the green batteries were prior to their removal?  As cowboygames stated, it's possible that your board thinks the main door is open when it isn't due to damage to the traces there.

I experienced that personally.  The trace below the varta battery was bad.  Check it with a multimeter because mine looked good.  There is a post that I started on this.

I am thinking you checked but make sure he belly door switch if your machine has one is working properly.
Open Belly door and look near the upper left corner of the belly door opening.
Either there will be a switch there or a jumper installed.
the switch is installed in series with the door optic (emitter)

Also make sure that the BV switch is either working or bypassed its below the lock area of the Cash Can Door.
Also make sure to fully seat the MPU

My machine had a door M open that would not clear even with optic bypass (I use the cherry switch)
I gently pushed the MPU in, I felt it move very very little, which solved the problem.

Also trace back the door emitter harness it separates from the main door harness and actually connects to the main harness near reel 1. BV bezel harness also connects there.
I say this since you changed games, and you may have removed the reels to change the strips.

I would also trace the cabinet side as well back to the motherboard.
 
some digital cameras can pick up Infrared light (use it to test the emitter on the door)
The only way to test the receiver since you cant get into the I/O tests, is with your DMM and a flashlight (I do not know if a LED flashlight will give off Infrared light like a incandescent bulb will)
DMM in diode or ohm test (like you would test a transistor collector/emitter junction, the light is the Base input., biasing the transistor to conduct.

Checked the Mdoor, Bdoor, BVal, CCage open signal traces from connector J2 to U60/U61 then to U69. All checked ok.