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Has anyone ever had this happen?  My ChamII+ seems to have forgotten its programming.

It's probably been about a month since I've had it on, but now after my meter boots, it displays "EMPTY", followed by an endless loop of:

0J00
C10
C14

I tried re-booting it a number of times with no love.  Do these things have batteries that can die causing them to forget their programming?  It's not the end of the world as I have the program saved on my computer (I hope, I hope, I hope), but unfortunately my computer and slot machine are not exactly next to each other (I originally programmed the meter before I put it into the slot).

Is it simply a matter of sending the program again?  Should I expect to have to do this if I don't have the machine on frequently?

They do have batteries that need changing, but once done should last many years.

The codes you have mean:

C10   Progressive is not set up (use PSP to initialize progressive)
C14   The selected Machine Serial setting is not supported

I had both these when my battery ran out and they disappeared once the battery was changed and the unit re-programmed.

The '0J00' error I've not heard of and can't find any info about. Hopefully someone else will be able to answer that one for you.

Well, as long as someone else started this thread, My CHAMII+ battery went dead some time ago and I found out when we had a power outage last month. So far I've just let it be. It is a flat camera-type battery that is soldered onto the board.

Has anyone replaced these with more practical batteries like AA with a holder? As many of you may already know, it is a 3V battery, not 3.6V, so the SAFT lithium won't do, but they do make 1.5V lithium AA's too. :103-

I haven't tried putting in a battery holder and normal AA batteries, I just used an ordinary watch battery.

I understand from previous posts about doing the same mod you are referring to but on S+/PE+ PCB boards, that you should be able to do this with the CHAMII+ as well, someone said then that "3v is 3v whereever you get it from."

If you used a flat battery, did you install a battery holder or used a standard replacement battery with pre-soldered leads?

<ADD> If you installed a battery holder, can you give me the part #?

OK now I'm found out, I didn't actually do it, my neighbour did  :30-

I removed the old battery by breaking the spot weld joints joining the legs (attached to the board) and the old battery, by inserting a screwdriver and very gently twisting it to break them. Then a new battery just slipped inside and he soldered it in.

WARNING STUPIDITY ALERT - I wasn't going to admit this, but in the interest of safety to anyone else who want to try this.....DON'T... unless you know what you are doing and can get the battery soldered very quickly.

I am rubbish at soldering and managed to get the battery so hot that it exploded and nearly took an eye out. Boy did I feel foolish. Luckily my eye survived and more importantly so did the board. But those legs were bent a lot wider apart than before the explosion!

Please don't flame me for this shocking stupidity.

I'm glad you're ok...I never actually blew a battery up...wow!... next time, wear some safety glasses! :30-  :89-

Hello!

Yes - that could have turned out a lot worse - glad everything is ok.  I've never thought to wear safety goggles when soldering before - but I guess that makes sense - you never know how things are going to react to heat - I will wear a pair from now on....

Dan #2

Thanks for the concern, but it was all my stupidity and I fully deserved whatever happened, I got lucky considering how close my face was to it trying to see what I was doing.

A point of note, as I've seen it mentioned on other threads, its also not easy to get the carbon back in the case either after the smoke comes out!   :98-  :97-

i have the same problem messages[C10 / $0.00] low battery. i did a simple fixed[i just did it] :3-[no explo, :149-]  got free battery from work!! I'll take pic later when i done!! :88-   

I'm very glad to hear that there were no serious repercussions. I'm just as stupid, only luckier, I tried soldering leads onto the ends of a battery once, but I couldn't get the solder to stick to the surface of the battery and I gave up before the big bang.

I have a decent soldering station so I could remove the leads from the circuit board and replace the battery (as long as I can find one with pre-soldered leads) but I was hoping to avoid it, if possible.

>>>
I searched MCMelectronics, Happ, and the entire internet. No one seems to have this battery.
Do any of our vendors sell these? Panasonic VL2028 3V or equivalent with tabs attached. :103-

Does anyone know what this 'OJOO' error code is, could this be warning about something else that corrupted the memory and the battery is still actually OK?

The only error codes I could find all began with 'C'.

That was easy soldering job for me!! did a lot in the pass!!! you need a lot of practice!!

All the battery's they're all the same!! have to pick the closest one or better and same type!!!

I installed a full size AA battery onto an S+ MPU board!! I'm sure its will last a lot longer then a 1/2 size AA battery..someone correct me if I'm wrong!!!..rookie.!!!. 
 :25- :25-

Thanks for the info (and the exploding battery warning!).  I'm awful at soldering, so I may bring it to a friend who has a better soldering iron and does it on a regular basis.  I'm tempted to add a battery holder to the thing so it will never need to be soldered again.

That's where I am. I need either a flat battery holder or a replacement battery with the tabs.
Vendors where are you?  :97- :97-

I think you can just use two X 1.5v AA's if you can get a holder for those and solder it on.

If no one responds it looks like that's what I'll have to do. The CHAMII+ boards are relatively small and I'd actually prefer to replace the battery with another flat cell since it should last 8-10 years. These guys don't die every three and a half seconds like the Bally ProSlot batteries. :5-

I was thinking of just strapping a AA battery holder to the side of the metal power supply case, and then having the leads soldered to the holder.

Ah. I'll do that as a last resort, but I have a separate PS in the computer room for programming the thing so that I don't have to remove everything from the machine when I want to change the messages. I just take the board in the other room. I have another display in there too.

Try Mouser
 
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/636/2042.pdf (http://www.mouser.com/catalog/636/2042.pdf)

Looks like the 2032 with tabs vertical would do just perfect.

Thanks Foster. K+