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I put a new light bulb in my candle for the "change" light as I was trying to be creative with color  :103-.   Anyway, it shorted out apparently and at first it said "Meter disconnected" and now the machine shows "coin in jam" error after it goes thru startup and spins the reels.  Nothing else happened in between the candle going out and the error and there was a slight smell of burned electrical.  I have never taken one of these apart but am wondering if there is possibly a fuse that blew (if it has them) or will this be a common board that the candle and other sensors plug into that I burned up?   Everything else looks good to go otherwise--except the candle and the error.  No sound either when I hit the change button on the machine.  The game is a 3 reel Tabasco S2000 round top.  Really bummed I could be so stupid.   :33- :33-  Any help is greatly appreciated.

EDIT: 663 display is out as well, BV goes thru its test but the light doesnt come on.  Multi Denom board doesnt come on.  Also the "Change" light on the candle is stuck on now (after putting in the old bulb).

You either fried the door I/O board or the blue VFD display panel....
You  used the wrong application lamp in there.
That will destroy your machine.
Buzz and Capt.Happy know all about this .... :72-

The blue display is still lit and seems to be working.  The multi denom display and the 663 display are both out but not sure if they come on only after all checks complete when the game is started.  I havent been able to come up with the repair manual on the S2000 yet and dont know exactly where the "door I/O board" is.  Can someone please give me some guidance here or a PM and how to test it (other than looking for burned traces etc).  I have a voltmeter, basic tool skills, and time.  If its this board, are they commonly available for purchase somewhere?  Thank you for helping a newbie here.

Door I/O board is mounted just below the VFD on the front side of the door panel at an angle.
There will be a plastic or metal handle on it with a harness coming from the machine plugged into it where the pull handle is.
You have to remove the harness before trying to remove the door I/O card.

Do not confuse it with the VFD driver board mounted on the inside of the door that has a ribbon cable connected to it. if the machine has the older VFD setup (2 parts)

The door IO is located about 6 inches to your right ( door hinge side ) of the coin comparitor, between the belly glass and the inner door panel. You can see it, it's right at the top. It will have molex plug at the top, unplug it and pull on the handle. Sometimes a casino tech will put a tie wrap around one to hold it in.   :103- :103-

If you cooked the 6 6 3 display, your not going to need a whole lot of test equipment to find the damage. I think it's only 3 screws that hold it in. ( be carefull the reel glass doesn't fall out. )

Thanks for the direction.  I took the door I/O board out and the 663 board out.  I looked both of them over with a magnifying glass but cant find any obvious damage to either.  Here are their pics--anyone see something my untrained eye is missing or need better pics?  What is the next step to check?

I would look at the cabinet I/O board as well its easier to locate its mounted to the right side of the of the MPU housing.
After checking it
Re-assemble everything.
turn the machine on
if you get the coin in jam error showing again, close the door fully latching the door, then lift the latch (do not open door) then lower the latch do this quite a few times. do it slowly
This process will clear all stacked errors except any that can not be resolved. lifting and lowering the latch clears one error each time.
Every time you turn the machine off and back on and the problem is there you will create another error on the error stack

The Cabinet I/O card handles most of the cabinet I/O
hard meters
candle
handle
hopper
W-2G, or second reset switch (jackpot to credits)
back lit reel controller is connected to the Cabinet I/O but is not controlled by the cabinet I/O it is controlled by the SENET controller on the MPU directly
  that port is connected to the SENET bus.
Jackpot bell might be as well (I cant remember right off hand)

Door optics and Jackpot reset switch are not part of the cabinet I/O or door I/O boards. they are separate

Ok here is a pic of the cabinet I/O board--it seems ok too to me.  I tried sliding the latch up and down and the first (and only other error message that came up) was "Inputs shorted".  The very first message that came up when the candle shorted was "meters disconnected" or something like that but havent seen that since.  I tried putting the latch up and down 20 times but it still says "coin in jam" and I havent opened the door 20 times since this happened.  I pulled the main board out while I was there but dont see any visible damage to it either (but didnt take the piggyback board off of it to check further).  The change part of the candle is stuck on all the time now and the button on the deck no longer controls it--is that any clue?  663 lights and multi denom board still out.  All of the deck buttons are lit but dont seem to work.  I can put it into the Accounting menu but cant change menus with any button.  I hope that helps you come up with an idea.  Thank you so much for the help.

Probably popped the 663 display. These can be the weakest link when you have a short. Open the candle and make sure nothing is touching ground at the bottom where the wires attach insede. You can unplug your 663 display and see if the machine boots up, if it does then you will need to replace the 663 display.

I tried disconnecting the 663 board and starting it, still same error.  I also re-started it with the coin camparator and related wires disconnected, also still "coin in jam" error.  I have unplugged the candle just in case it was bad or still shorted but makes no difference either.   :259- to you guys for trying to help me.  The only difference I have noticed is now the jackpot bell dings once when you start the machine.  That didnt used to happen.  Not much, but maybe that is significant?  Should I just start shotgunning replacement boards in at this point or am I going to have to try and find someone who knows these machines and can work on it? 

Try a differant door IO board if you have one. You can't look at those and see the damage that makes them not work. I shorted the service button on the button deck of a machine one and that is exactly the series of errors I got. The "meters disconnected"error may be referencing a lack of connection or signal to the 663 due to a short that burns up the IO board which ultimately leads to the "coin in jam" error on the screen

I think I'm looking at a couple of mistakes. The pic. you are saying is the 6 6 3 board, I think it's a pic. of the VFD driver board. Was it just to the other side if the inner panel from the door IO ? 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think that's a 6 6 3 display ? Can you have a 6 6 3 with short reel glass ??  :103-

Fourbyracer  remove the display that's on your extreme right and take a look at those traces.  ( I'm betting it's bad )

  You feel like driving 116 miles one way, load it up and bring it to my house, I know I have all the parts your gonna need. My labor is free, parts are going to cost you. Bring a big truck and a lot of money, it's a sin to leave my house with a half empty truck !!

Hi Buzz, you can definately have a 663 with short reel glass. My Martians game is 552 and my former Triple Red Hot is a 663. You see them a lot on machines with touch denom. Wish I was 116 miles from you, I'd load a truck :89- The thing with circuit boards is that you most often can't see the damage when they go bad because it's just a shorted transistor or IC and the damage is internal. You need a schematic and test equipment to locate the bad parts.

If he smoked that display the way I did two of them, with Capt. Happy watching ( one of them was his new machine ) he can find the damage using Braille.

Yeah, LED displays burn up, IO boards and such generally just short out :97-

FYI
You can tell that he took a picture of the back of the 6-6-3 because it has  12 pin Micro-Fit 3.0 connector J51 and the denom panel white connector J250 next to it
I still do not understand how these engineers can label to connectors on the same board J51 and J250
Where is their logic, oh that is right Engineers do not use logic all the time.

I thought that the "663" refers to how many LED characters are in the board.  If that's not right, then I could have something different.  Here is the pic of the front of the same board I posted earlier.  I think at this point, 116 miles sounds like what I need to do to get it fixed unless you think I just need to change a board or 2.  Where exactly are you at?  Steve

That's a short reel glass 663 display, you had it right 4X and Buzz is right too. Oftentimes when LED display boards go out they burn up and it's pretty obvious. Interface and control boards, well...not so much

Steve I sent you a PM

Final verdict on this was the Cabinet I/O board.  Apparently when it goes, it may show anything including "Coin In error".  Also the BV was not related as the machine was over the credit limit when the board blew so the BV was off and wouldnt let you put any more credits in it.  A major thanks to NLG member Buzz who fixed it.  :259-   I made the trek to his house and we had a great day of fixing, playing and BS'ing.  Buzz, you da man!!   :131- 

That's good that you posted the follow-up and fix.
This thread will help others!  :89-
Karma plus + to you and Buzz!  :3-
Heck...karma plus + to everyone here! lol