New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello All, I have nice picture Ceronix Monitor with no burn. The problem is it has a dim picture. It has a brand new chassis in it & when I use the brightness knob on the chassis it starts showing trace lines getting any brighter. Is it the Deflection Coil or plug etc. or is it on it's way out? The picture stays the same if on 1 minute or 12 hours. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as this is a nice picture & would hate to dispose of it & replace. I've also put other Chassis in it & the same

Have you tried the control on the focus block aasembly next to the flyback? On a new board it may well be turned down

Thanks for the post. Yes, I tried focus & brightness & also other chassis that I have off other machines with no luck. The brightness knob will brighten the pic, but then shows trace lines & then heavier as you turn it up & they don't go away after warming up? It has a really nice picture & OK. it's just pretty low in brightness & monitor always has. I thought a new chassis would do the trick, but no luck. Next to my other 2 machines it looks very low in brightness & alone you kind of adjust to it, but it;s not bright. Again Thanks for your reply & would appreciate any other suggestions

Normally, with a tube going bad, I would expect to see a loss of focus along with a dimmimg picture due to carbon build-up on the guns inside the tube, but it may be that the filaments are just wearing out. Wait for another opinion though. I've got a lot of experience with TVs in general, but none with the ceronix monitors and chassis so I don't know all their quirks. Do those chassis only have the gain control on the focus block or do they have a separate user control elsewhere on the board also?

Only a brightness & focus knob & picture is attached. Thanks

you could try to have the tube rejuvenated, this may help bring back the brightness. most TV repair centers will have the test gear to do this

Rejuve can certainly help the brightness.  Also, if you're not SURE it's a new board, you might want to do a cap change.

At the very least, if you can get it hooked up to a rejuvinator, you'll be able to gage the condition of the guns inside the neck of the tube

I know that there are many different versions of the 1492 Ceronix out there. They have many different solder jumpers on the board and some of them do or can control brightness.  You would need to find someone who knows the ins and outs of the 1492's to help you with that. Is the Ceronix you have a direct replacement? The only reason I ask is I use the 1492 Ceronix in a bowling alley scoring unit and we tried buy a replacement through Ceronix only to find they were too dark for us to use.

Check the attached manual.
Also note the jumpers needed for IGT on page 53

Thanks All, I don't have a rejuvenator, but am considering buying an older one on ebay to learn how to use. it easy yo change a neck on a tube, as I'm thinking of trying a swithch of necks from a better CRT with major nurn on the screen, but it has a great bright picture with good color. It looks easy, but don't want to mess the monitors up if it is difficult. Advice would be appreciated. Thanks

It's Brand New/Not Rebuilt & have tried other working board chassis on this monitor with the same results?

Is it simple to exchange the neck on a CRT reflection coil? It looks just like a slide out & in & then  just tighten tighten the clamp? Would like advice befor attempting, so I don't ruin anything. Thanks

Changing the deflection coil is easy, but it won't help the brightness. The coil only deals with size and orietation of the picture to the screen. The filaments or guns are inside the neck of the tube. They tend to build up with carbon over time or just plain wear out. A rejuvinator uses electrical pulses or shocks to blow the carbon buildup off the guns. Unique thing about color versus black and white tubes is that color tubes can also go bad from lack of use.

Thanks. I thought the guns were in the neck/plug on the reflection coil & why I was going to change out

I agree that the coils not the problem, plus if your CRT has any of the pllastic adjustment levers on the neck behind the coil they get brittle and can be hard to get loose without breaking them, I know first hand. Plus trying to get them adjusted again is a pain..

That and the fact that those coils were incredibly resiliant. I can only recall ever seeing one bad one in the last 25 years. No, unless that monitor is bigger than the board was made for I'm gonna ges it's the guns