Print Page - Just aquired Bally 847 need help

A friend of mine sold me a Bally 847 nickel Machine and it has a couple of issues. Bear in mind this is the first slot machine I have owned and these questions may seem basic to you experts but I know nothing about this machine. Since it was only $150, I think it is worth finding out if it can be fixed. I have had it 2 weeks and am dying to play it!!

1. top panel payout lights do not work
2. I have no keys, but the door is unlocked. I can get to the inside. does it have to be closed AND locked to operate correctly? Can you get new keys as well as a reset key?
3. After a coin is dropped in, the handle pulls down but does not return. Also the reels do not spin when the handle is pulled. I can release the handle but I am not sure if the handle is engaging correctly with the gears
I pulled out the reel mech. and when I manually operate this, the reels spin and stop as they should.
4. The hopper is empty. Does it need to be full to operate the machine correctly?
5. I have been reading about reset switches, wipers (whatever they are), and all sorts of other things that could go wrong.. I have ordered a couple of books that will help me learn.

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. Also is there a repair tech in the So. Cal area? Los Angeles?

Hi and Welcome to New Life Games... :88- A new door lock and key and reset key can be bought through Foxsslots found on the home page under Sponsors Links. You will need coins in the hopper to play the game, without coins the hopper would run till the a timer is timed out and would need to be reset. That is done by pushing a lever that sticks out below the hopper base.. Have you check the machines fuses to see if they are all good for your top lights issue? The fuses are located behind the hopper... There is a U shaped lever on the right side, or the inside of the handle. There is a stud bearing located on the right side of the reels assembly on the half gears, that bearing fits into the U shaped handle lever when the reel are put back in the machine.. The other thing that can make a handle not work correctly is a sticky air cylinder or piston located on the right side of the reels.. It's the white or cream colors plastic tube and metal U shaped lever assembly. There is a metal piston inside with a rubber seal on it, that rubber seal turns to a stick tar and gums up the inside causing the handle not to operate smoothly. Take the piston out of the cylinder and clean it and the inside. Then take a small amount of a light grease and lube the inside of the cylinder and piston and reassemble, it will work fine without the rubber seal, plus there is no replacement for it.. Hopefully this will get you started on getting your machine up and running..

I will post pics this weekend. I think I will have to shoot pics of the hopper etc so you can help easier. It will be a few days before my books arrive. Thanks for the welcome. I have read through this whole EM forum and found a lot of great info. I do know it is not the reels that are preventing the handle from returning as it does tha same thing even with the reels out. There is a tiny spring loaded catch that engages with the half gears (see, getting the terminology down already!!) that stops the handle. I put my finger in and hold it up from the gears and the handle goes back. If I understand correctly, certain things have to happen in order for the next thing to happen, and so forth. I wonder if something happened out of order that locked up the machine...???

To check your reels for kick and spin, remove the reel mech, and while holding it FIRMLY push on the pump arm (horseshoe long link thing on the right side) coming out of the pump. This should kick off your reels. It takes a bit of pressure to do this.
To check your handle, remove the reel mech, and drop the paddle that keeps the handle locked out. It's mounted on top of the handle and engages the lock pawl. (Actually a faster way is to just hold the lock pawl forward, you don't even have to drop the paddle) The lock pawl is that little piece sticking up through the top front of the handle box. You should be able to fully pull the handle all the way down. To release it, push down on the release paddle that sticks out behind the handle mech (make sure you don't hit yourself in the chin when the handle pops back into place.)
Hope that helps, and it will give you something to play around with until your manuals get there.
Oh, if everything works, then put the reels back in, and pull the handle. If it sticks down, and does not return, then, while still pulling the handle, push firmly back on the pump arm we talked about. That may give you enough ooomph to pop the reels off. sometimes it's just a simple adjustment on the length of your first half-gear rod.
Hope that makes some sense??? Haven't had my morning quota of coffee yet.

Thanks for that info. It will give me work to do on Saturday. Think I will have some time to check these things out. It looks like to me that it wants to work. I plug it in and drop a coin in, pull the handle and the reels move a half inch or so the go back to where they were. Then I have to open the door to release the handle back. Its like its almost there. The guy who sold it to me said that it was working fine then ithe handle stuck and that was it. Was $150 a good price? It seems to me it was. also I dont see pics or info about nickel 847 Continentals. Most that I have see are quarter machines. Are the nickle machines rarer than the quarter ones?

Your handle should pull much much farther down than that. Remove the 2 screws holding that piece of sheet metal at the top of the front of the handle box, then put the screws back in place. You don't need that, it is a retrofit anti-cheat device. With it out of the way you should be able to see the handle workings more fully.
That is not your original handle box, but it should work fine in your machine, BTW.

Also pay close attention to that piece extending out from the back of your handle box.
THAT is the piece you use to release a locked down handle pull. If you ever have this situation, you pull out your hopper, power down the machine (I forgot to once, and got a big surprise), and carefully reach way up behind the side of the machine, and carefully pull down on that piece, while holding down slightly on the handle. This will release a locked handle probably 90% of the time. I HOPE YOU ALL REMEMBER THIS IN CASE THIS EVER HAPPENS.

Nice pics, thank you!
You've got something mechanically keeping your handle from being pulled. Either something fell in there, or someone put too long a screw into the handle box. Use a good flashlight, and look for something blocking the handle from being pulled all the way.
There is an angle bracket which holds the reel mech pan up in position. Two screws hold that in place going into the handle box. One of them is probably too long. If so, get a shorter screw, or put a washer or two on the outside.
Keep us posted.

Great instructions..... After following advice that gas been posted already I have determined the same thing you just told me that the handle does not go down far enough. After taking out the reels and testing it per "OldReno"'s instructions, they work fine, at least they spin like they should. So thanks for telling me how to get into the handle box. That is next on my list. BTW, all fuses are fine so I dont know where to check next for the payout board light issue. I will post a pic after I take the cover off of the handle box. Thanks for everyone's help.

You may find that after you get the handle fixed, and play it a couple of times, your pay problems disappear.
Cross your fingers.
You should have a couple of long funny looking plugs connecting your top box circuitry to the machine. Make sure they are plugged in correctly, fully seated, and not one pin off. Do any of the other lights in the machine work? Like the insert coin or coin accepted lights?
Nice machine BTW.

It is a nice machine.Thanks. no chipped or broken glass etc Small chip on the formica (top right) but apart from that not bad for 40+ years old. I'll check for the plugs. I do not have a "coin accepted" light or insert coin light but the belly glass lights as does the flourescent light for the reel section.

I took the cover off the front of the handle box. Still cannot see much or where it is getting stopped from going the rest of the way down. I wish I could get in the side of the box. and it is a solid stop. I cannot even take a decent picture even with a 500w inspection light on it!! Very frustrating as I know if I could see, it will be an easy fix. I am concerned that I am facing a disassemble of the handle box. I'll have to wait for the books before I do that. (unless there is an easy way) I have contacted Foxslots for keys so that will be good to get those. I am having Lunch, then I'll have another go at it!

The belly light and reel lights are 120V fluorescents. All the other lights are 6V. The lights that light up the 2 yellow overlays (next to your reel windows) are also 6V. Check your 6V fuse again if none of those are lit. Make sure none of the bulb socket tabs are touching to case. You might want to read the post on checking for shorts.

Under the reel pan, where it meets the handle box, there should be a long thin piece of angled sheet metal running horizontally. Remove the 2 screws holding that on, and then try your handle again.

I think I see the angled metal you are talking about. The one I am looking at has 6 screws and it looks to be the bottom of the handle box. If removing this allows access to,the handle box insides, then I will remove it. I am concerned that there might be things attached to the inside of this metal piece that I might have problems re installing. Is there anything attached to it? springs?. gears? etc?

No no no, don't take apart the handle box in the machine.
Look to where the Reel mechanism pan meets the handle box. There should be a small piece of metal strip which holds the pan up. There should be only 2 screws I'm thinking. It just holds the pan from flopping down.
Please don't take the 6 screws out of the bottom of the handle mech, you may be in for problems.
If you can't find what's hanging up the handle, you may have to pull the whole assembly out.
But that might be fun, and it's really no big deal.

I don't remember, but Barry should know. I'm thinking they are.
$30 for a working handle box I imagine is a pretty good deal.
However you will miss the thrill of disassembling your own handle.
It all depends on how much you like to tinker.
If you can't find what is holding up the handle, then you will have to pull the whole handle box regardless.

I have removed the 2 screws. I assume you were thinking that the mechanism was hitting one of those screws? well that did not solve the problem. Looked at this for about 2 hours yesterday and I just cannot see what is wrong. It just popped into my head while writing this that maybe something is caught in the half gears. I'll check that tonight. I saw the handlebox on FoxSlots ebay site when I ordered new locks and keys from him and think it might be worth getting it. It will at least show me how its all supposed to work and what might be out of place. I did look at those 6 screws on the bottom of the box and thought better leave those. Is there instructions on this site for removing the handle box? If not I can easily wait for the books after all the machine is not going anywhere!!

As far as the lights go, I'll get new fuses even though they look like they are good. It will be one more thing off the list.

Glad you're still at it. That deserves some attaboys.
If handle replacing instructions are not on the site, I could probably write about doing that, if there is interest, and I can figure out how to upload pics from my IPhone...?
Regardless, I am certainly glad to help you with information on how to replace your handle box.
I do have a machine (thanks to Darrell), and can go through it step by step with you.
I think I've done it in under 10 minutes, but that's with a LOT of practice.
Attaboy.

Thanks for the offer of help. When I get to that point i'll let you know. I will need the replacement box first and if I buy it today, I probably wont tackle the job before the weekend. As far as keeping at it, I try never to let something get the better of me. While some folks may have given up by now and maybe even sold the machine, I have to fix it. There will be a great sense of accomplishment when I get it done. And thanks to you all for helping me along the way!!

I've only had to replace one handle box before due to a person forcing the handle and bending the release paw. I have found a couple so dried out they didn't want to move, but a few well placed drops of oil and they were working fine again. Without seeing yours its hard to tell what's wrong? My guess something jammed inside, or broke and is in a gear tooth, a bushing or spring?? Good luck and keep us posted.

Gary

Quote from: Phil847bally on March 26, 2012, 07:08:34 PM

I try never to let something get the better of me. While some folks may have given up by now and maybe even sold the machine, I have to fix it. There will be a great sense of accomplishment when I get it done. And thanks to you all for helping me along the way!!

Your gonna fit in real well here...
A slot lover with a little OCD

Many thanks to Marshall Fey as I got my books today!!! Nice exploded view of the handle box in the book. The way I see it, there is not much to go wrong in there. I think the handle box exchange is the way to go. I will have another look before I commit to that. It is a little intimidating as all this technology is new to me. I did not know of all the electronics in these early machines and that is what scares me a little. I am not an electrician which is why my lights still dont work right!!. As luck would have it, this is mainly a mechanical thing and thats what is telling me that I can do it. Old Reno said he has done it in 10 min but as this is my first handle box change, so give me 15!! I hope Old Reno is around this weekend as I will probably be calling for help!!

If I remember right the reel shelve might have to be loosened or removed to get the handle box out. I have a possible cause for your top box lights not working. You might want to check to make sure you have a good ground to the lights. I have found in these Bally cabinets before when I've had a certain group out light out for no reason that running a new ground wire to the lights in question that they would start working? Just a thought...

Gary

Ordered the handlebox so that is on its way. Hope to get it before the weekend. The book shows how the box goes together but not how you install it, so its "take my time and lots of pictures along the way" Reno when I am done, I can get you the pictures if you wanted to write the tutorial. It would be my way of giving back to you guys!! (I hope to learn enough about this machine so I can help someone fix theirs.)

Gary is correct. Once you remove the 2 screws holding the rail assembly to the back plug bracket, then you will be able to push down the plug bracket, and pan, and that will allow you to eventually remove the rail assembly. There should be nuts holding the rail to the wall in front, and in the back. Once the rail is out, then it's pretty straightforward. Make sure you remove your handle bolt before you loosen the bolts holding the handle assembly to the wall. It should take a bit of torque to loosen it, it's a high quality bolt. After that, the handle itself will come out if you pull up on the ball and twist it back and forth.
Have fun, and we'll be here if you need us.
Use the Force, Luke....

New gearbox arrived today. It looks a lot cleaner inside than the one on the machine. Mine seems to have a lot of rust or corrosion which is probably the source of the problem.

Quote from: OldReno on March 27, 2012, 03:25:19 PM

Make sure you remove your handle bolt before you loosen the bolts holding the handle assembly to the wall. It should take a bit of torque to loosen it, it's a high quality bolt. After that, the handle itself will come out if you pull up on the ball and twist it back and forth.

The handle bolt, I assume is the one that has the actuator for the reels attached? This is what I think should happen in order:

Remove the right side rail assembly
Remove the handle bolt and handle as well as the hub
remove the bell assembly to get to the top bolts of the box
remove the bolts holding the box to the cabinet
Then the box should come out?

Install will be reverse of this.

Before I start, is there anything else to watch for or is it really as straightforward as you say? Is this a logical order to work in? I have my book and new box for reference

I will do this Saturday

The only thing I would do if I were you is to take many pictures before you start. That way you know where everything goes back inside of your machine. Better to not need the pictures then wish you had stopped long enought to take some.. The thing I would focuses on are your wiring, relays or switchs you may have to remove. Good luck and have fun. Keep us posted.
Gary

Phil, sounds like you got it. You may have to loosen the 2 screws on the LEFT side of the pan (the left rail back area) to allow your pan to drop down more fully. Maybe not, it looks like you have a split pan.You can take the handle bolt and handle fork off first if you wish.
When I disassemble anything new, I generally put the first thing off on a nearby table, the farthest away. The next thing off goes closer, and the last thing off is nearest me when I finish disassembly. Always seems to help when I put it back together.
Have fun, and we'll be here if you need help.
Also, when you take off the top 2 handle box nuts, the whole handle release lever, coil, switches and assembly come off as a single unit. Just set it out of the way and you can pull handle box. Shouldn't even have to touch the bell.

attached is a pic of old box and the one Barry sent me. Mine on the right. No wonder its messed up!! Also I undid the light board at the top of the machine to look for the grounding wire. Surprise, I did not know all that stuff was up there!! What are all those contacts and wheels and other electrics? Is this where the payouts are calculated? Or is it where it registers how many coins you put in?

As far as the lights go, I think its solved. I pulled the 6V fuse and it looked good but when I pulled it from the cap I noticed a slight burn that was hidden when in the cap. Its no good according to the Ohm meter. I also found a bulb broken. so i'll have to get back to Foxslots!!

It's hard to tell from the photo, but it appears your Shaft & assembly (part 8 through 14) are not protruding through the hole in the top bracket of your handle assy. You should see the top of the sleeve shaft (#9) popping up through the plate. It may have gotten pushed down into the handle box. Put a small screwdriver down through the hole and see if you can fish it back into the opening. I can't tell from photo, but that would give you your current symptoms.
Anyway, the top box assembly does hold a whole lot of things in it. And they get very noisy and clicky when they're working. It is payout stuff, and odds stuff.
Don't ask, haven't worked on one in over 20 years.
But you can drop it down after you get your handle changed, and watch all that cool stuff happening in there. Magic.
BTW, it's a good thing to have lots of grease in the handle box.
Make sure you put some on the threads of your handle bolt before you reassemble.

Old box is out and with your instructions it really was no big deal. easier than I thought. Got lots of pics!! But I have a question. The new box did not come with a spring that the old one has. Should I install the spring on the new one or do I even need to. It looks like a return spring for the handle lock release paddle but that part without the spring seems to operate fine. Is this just a redundancy item? See pics

I'd put the spring in just for giggles.
Where your rack lock lever goes through the handle bearing assembly (#20) there are some needle bearings. You might want to drip some oil down into that to be sure it's lubed. Also a bit of grease where metal works on metal should quiet it down a bit. I'm sure it was checked before they sent it off to you. A drop of oil on each point where there are bushings, or through holes will help it.
Cool.

So the problem with the old box has been solved and you will never guess. Upon comparing the two boxes for what could be wrong, I moved the mechanism on the old box and a key fell out. This key fits the door lock of the machine. It must have been laying flat at the bottom of the box so that when you pulled the handle it acted as a stop. I will put the old box back in and see if that works and I expect it will. This also explains why the prev owner said it was working then it didnt. The key must have been stored inside the machine for some reason and vibration from using the handle knocked it inside where it jammed the box. So I am degreasing the old box and then I'll put fresh grease in and re-install. I will probably have a good handlebox and door lock with keys for sale soon!!

Just having the one is more than my wife wants!!. Good news and bad news: Good is that it works!! Pull the handle, it kicks the reels spinning and even my lights work. Bad new is the payouts are not working right. I get something that is supposed to pay out 14 and it empties the hopper and shuts the machine down. But that is for another day. Time to get the book out again and read some other posts on payouts. I have some bulbs out also but way down on the priority list.

New Life Games Tech Forums

Reel Slots Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Phil847bally on March 23, 2012, 06:12:42 AM

New Life Games Tech Forums

**Reel Slots** Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Phil847bally on March 23, 2012, 06:12:42 AM

Reel Slots Gaming Machines => Bally Electromechanical => Topic started by: Phil847bally on March 23, 2012, 06:12:42 AM