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Bringing one back from the dead.
Does anyone know how to bypass the door optics on a Bally 6000?
Thanks Ford

Hey Ford it is Jimmy...
Here is what I do for a quick bypass...Take a LED flashlight and hold it up to the optic in the case...You should see the coin comparitor light light up and check out the machine with you spare hand...You could always get a magnet flexable LED light and use that...Hope that gives you ideas...
Jimmy

+1 to Jimmy,
You used to be able to do that with IGT until they put pulsed optics into their equipment.
Don't know if Bally has done that or not. Or when.

Jimmy, I did that with a light. I works then but I want to do a permanent bypass so I don't have to hold a light to have it work.
Thanks Ford

Go to your local BBQ store and get a magnet flexable LED light...You can then stick it on the side of the machine and point the light into the optic...As far as I know, bally does not use pulsed optics on the 6000...I have held a flashlight up to the optics for a long time while I am checking on the coin comparitor and/or the overall machine...
Jimmy

If the Bally optics are NOT pulsed, then could they use a cherry switch like I use on my S2000?
You could use the other tabs on the cherry switch for the interior worklight?
The cherry switch would need a separate set of tabs....>>>

When I check power on door switch it is pulsed. Power than 0 -power than 0
Does anyone know what wires to connect to ELIMINATE SWITCH?

We used to make jumpers for the IGT's that had pulsed optics.  Take 1 complete set of door optics (1 emitter, one detector), and then put them together facing each other and permanently fasten them in place with some heatshrink. The cool thing is the plugs already match up.  Then you unplug the machine optics, and plug in your jumper.  This allows you access with door open, and the machine still thinks it's closed. If you want to get fancy, put inline a small micro-switch so you can simulate door open without unplugging your jumper.   
If you can get a set of Bally optics, you could make a jumper like that in theory.
(I always wondered if a piece of fibreoptic cable would work...?)

Thanks all. I found the problem. I switched everything else from another machine. Door &
wiring, back board, switches, & all. The last thing I switched was the cable that goes into
 backboard J3 cabinet I/O. I got one for this machine because it was missing. The one
I got was bad.
Thanks for all the help & K+ to all.

Well...to answer the question of bypassing door optics on a Bally6000 is right here in this photo.
I opened the door on mine...haven't done that in a while and I never knew it already didn't have optics -
it uses a cherry switch!
Here's some pictures for ya! ...>>>

more pics...
Looks like they only use the top half of the cherry switch's tabs.
The top wire is a doubled set of dark, maybe black wires...probably ground wires.
Middle one appears to be yellow or light orange (mango?)  w/ black stripe
and the bottom one looks like a darker orange w/ black stripe.
I hope this helps anyone that might want to install a Cherry switch on their machine in the future.

Obviously,  Bally has parts from Mexico too.
IGT uses a lot from Japan.
I don't believe there is a slot machine company that's totally "Made In U.S.A." anymore...>>>

Last picture I took...
The flash on my camera finally kicked in... :72-

Click on any photo to enlarge as big as you want...>>>

Thanks Bunker. I'll have to do that to the machine I robbed the harness from.
Ford

Question Bunker.
Is it the 2 wires from optic on cabinet or 1 from cabinet & 1 from door?
Thanks Ford

I don't know Fordsbs.
I can dig around in the morning for you.
The machine is at least 38 miles from me at the moment...lol

My guess is that the two blacks were tied together on the "Common" tab,
but I don't know why they would have one on the "NC" tab ( Normally Closed) of the Cherry switch
and one on the "NO" tab? (Normally Open)
I'm confused by that...

If you're working on your machine now before I can check in the morning -
I'd go by the colors for the time being.
I'm sure your machine has the same colored wires?

Thanks Bunker. I will not get to it until Wed.

Okay,
I just looked at it.
From what I can see...there are no connectors on the door itself for any optics.
The only ones I see are the ones on the cabinet-side under the bill acceptor
and are the ones I mentioned in the earlier post.

It looks like I was somewhat correct on how the Cherry switch tabs are configured.
I removed my switch to show you a couple of things...>>>

The doubled-up black wires go onto one tab marked as #2.
But as you can see - it's tied in with the #4 tab with the yellow wire as a closed circuit.
Only when the plunger is pulled out or pushed in does the orange wire on the #6 tab close the connection -
sending a "closed door" signal back to the MPU.

So with this diagram in mind, all you really need to do is pull your four wires together
and hook them up to the Cherry switch to bypass the door optics!

The other 3 tabs labeled as #1,#3, & #5 are spare tabs should you want to switch
something else for example:  an interior work lamp perhaps?

You can click on my photoshopped photo to enlarge it if you wish...>>>

Thanks Bunker, Now if I can find the yellow wire.

I think it's more like a real light orange wire or off-yellow wire
and the other is a darker shade of orange w/ a black stripe.

I think it's more like a real light orange wire or off-yellow wire

I'll have to look for that one tomorrow. I wonder if that one has anything to do with optics.

I'd bet my bottom dollar it does Fordsbs!   :96-

The door has orange W/ red & gray W/ blue, so it's not one of those

You have physical optics on the door?
I don't....would we have different door harnesses?
Mine only go to the deck buttons, deck lights, coin comparator, coin-in optics and the speaker.
I don't see any other connections really.

I'm confused if this has optics or not?
At one time Bally used only cherry switches.  Then they included optics.
They had weird optics, as in the prism system they once used in their coin in circuitry.  A plastic prism.
Often they would use a set of self contained optics, wherein a blocking bar was used to interrupt the light source.  Could you have an assembly like that on your door? This does save in production costs, to run only 1 set of wires rather than 2.
I dunno, just trying to figure this out.
Maybe I should reread the posts...?

I have optics on door & cabinet. It's a 2003 .

Bunker, that's because you're working there, and they decided they didn't need that extra protection of two door $witches.
@Ford, is the door or the cabinet side the detector?
(someone once told me you can use your phone's camera to see the IR from the emitter.  Is that right???)

If I shine a light on the one on cabinet it shows door closed & can play.

Cabinet side is the optics and the door is the LED light source...
Jimmy

I can think of 4 ways to do this:
Strip back your door harness so you can physically move the emitter over to the detector.
Make a plug in extension so you can do the same.
Tape a flashlite there.
Wire up the unused portion of your cherry switch to simulate door optics closed.
Dunno about the last. There may be a common between the emitter and detector that will allow you to use the Cherry, but I don't have schematics or have ever done that.

I agree with reno.
May I ask a question?
What are the colors of the two wires for the door emitter optic
and the colors of the two wires for the cabinet-side receiver optics?

I'm going to take a wild guess that each optic ( Emitter and receiver) is going to have one Black wire?

Cabinet is orange/black & black
door is orange/red & gray/blue

Bunker, can you detect IR with your phone camera???
We used to use IR strips, but camera is easier IF it works.

If I did it right with camera IR on door

Good!
My guess is that the orange ones will be going to the #4 and #6 tabs on the Cherry Switch while the dark wires get tied together onto the #2 tab.
I'd put the orange/red on the #4 tab.
Another way to check to the the ohm's between the dark wires and ground of the machine with a multi-meter to make sure that they are indeed ground wires.
You should get a much higher reading on the multi-meter checking the orange wires to ground.


I cannot at the moment because I am at home.
I know one thing though...the optics on the Bally optics are exactly the same as an S+'s door optics.
So, I definitely think the emitter door optic can be seen with a digital camera.
The receiver cabinet-side optic, of course, does NOT emit any light at all.
So, you wouldn't see anything with a camera there.

I've never tried viewing the emitter with a phone camera but I'm sure it can do it.
I normally use a small Sony digital hand-held video camera.

Oh Bunker, you're such a snob...I don't have a DVC....
Nice to know about Bally/IGT swap-ability. Thanks.
Often generics will work, too, as I've done that with IGT hopper optics.
I'm guessing a large variety of emitters will work on that Bally.

Thanks guys, The machine I'll be working on is @ work. If I get time tomorrow I'll try.
Thanks for all the help. If I get that far tomorrow I'll let you know how I did.
The machine is an empty case right now. Have to put all back in. Stripped all out to get another one working.
Ford

 :208- Hey! I won it in an office pool!  :96-
I'll take some videos with it this summer with me hitting golf balls 300 yards smack down the middle of the fairway!  :72-

 :251- FORE!

AHA!
Now I grok your log-in name.
Golf is my 2nd passion.  Anytime I can break 100 I'm a real happy guy.
I can hit it 150 yards straight, once in awhile.
My philosophy is the more swings I get, the better bang for the buck.

Did you rig the office pool?

BUNKER, HAD TO LET YOU KNOW THAT YOUR WAY OF WIRING WORKED.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU  :244- :244- :3- :3- :3- :3-
FORD

Hey fordsbs! That's great!  :199-
I'm glad I didn't have to send you my stuff in case it fried !  :98-   :72-

To bypass Door Optics on Ballys 6000 Short the 2 wires going to the optic on MACHINE side. U must use a 100 Ohm resistor inline..

I keep my optics working but as well I install a little toggle switch so when the door is open I Can turn the toggle switch and play the machine if need be for testing.

One wire from toggle switch of Cherry switch to the orange or black wire at optic.. the other wire from  he switch to a 100 Ohm Resistor then connect to the other wire at optic.. and u r done!

I have an old optic harness that I cut the optic off and put a 100 Ohm resistor there.. so when I am working on getting machine running I just unplug the machine optic and plug "The Test" one in and do what I have to do.. Its very handy.. Hope this helps for anyone..

Steve