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I hope the following enlightens Universal slot machine owners.   :89-
The Universal manual says there are basically four different types of power supplies. (Not including Ultra Series Slots)
They are called the Green Dot, Red Dot, Yellow Dot, and Narrow/Intermediate power supplies.
I have not seen up close the Narrow/Intermediate, so let's look at the Green, Red, Yellow.
First of all, you will see no dots on the power supplies. Although I have seen lime green round stickers on a few.  :5-
It is hard to tell the difference just by looking at them.
The Green Dot was the first to come out.
Then came the Red Dot. The difference between the two are the green has a Tower-3 board and the red has a Tower-4 board.
The Tower board controls the handle.
Red and Green Dots are interchangable according to the manual.
Then came the Yellow Dot. The Yellow Dot was made for machines with electronic flouresent light starters. Electronic starters require 24Vac and ballast starters 100Vac.
Yellow Dots are NOT interchangable with Red or Green Dot. Manual says; the result will be blown fuses and possible damage to the mpu board.
So, logically if you have ballast lighting than your power supply is not a Yellow Dot. Right?  WRONG!
I purchased a couple of tourament machines last year. They have ballast lighting and Yellow Dot power supplies. What Universal did is add two additional wires and ran them from the hopper 100Vac power to the lights. Maybe they thought the hopper wouldn't be used in these tournament machines? The combined amp draw hasn't been a problem for me, and I use the hopper often. They also bumped up the two input fuses from 3 to 4amp.

So how can you tell them apart?
On that front 12-pin connector, across pins 6 & 12 are 100Vac on Red and Green Dots, and 24Vac on Yellow Dots. 
Looking at the front of the power supply, if the 12-pin connector is 4 across and 3 down, it should be;

1   4   7   10
2   5   8   11        Remember, pins 1, 3, 11 have a flat side in their socket.
3   6   9   12

If, as seen in the pic below, left most unit, the 12-pin is 3 across and 4 down, then;

3   2   1
6   5   4             Remember, pins 1, 3, 11 have a flat side in their socket.
9   8   7
12  11 10

Across #3 and #9 are also 100Vac. This is where the hopper get's power.

Added 10/30/08
Pin Outputs                                                                                         
 #1 = DC 5v     wire color PINK
 #2 = DC 24v   wire color ORANGE    (actual voltage between 30-35Vdc)
 #3 = AC 100v  wire color WHITE   test with #9
 #4 = DC 12v   wire color RED 
 #5 = DC 24v   wire color ORANGE    (actual voltage between 30-35Vdc)
 #6 = AC 100v for RED and GREEN DOT wire color white,   AC 24v for YELLOW DOT   wire color yellow
 #7 = GROUND wire color BLACK
 #8 = AC 9.5v wire color GRASS or light green
 #9 = AC 100v wire color GRAY test with #3
#10 = GROUND wire color BLACK
#11 = DC 32v   wire color Violet
#12 = AC 100v  wire color GREY on RED and GREEN DOT, AC 24v for YELLOW DOT wire color white with black stripe
The following power supplies are; Yellow, Red, Yellow, Red, Green Dot.

Note from StatFreak: Per Uniman, it is important to note that the specific parts and repairs listed in these posts apply to the PSs being worked on here but not all Uni PSs because there were so many variations. Bware's and Joeys' power supplies were Yellow Dot. Diecaster might have had a Red or Green Dot.


bware
« Reply #34 on: January 09, 2006, 09:02:58 PM »   
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...

Ive got the exact same one (PS) as the one shown in Joeylc's pics except mine does not have the tower-4 PCB.

Mine has a '22000uF 16WV CE 85 deg C Negative Black' capacitor, the manufacture is 'Nickicon'.

The 5V regulator, mounted on the heatsink on the top of the P/Supply is a 'UA78H05SC' batch no 'F 8430' and 'Hong Kong' writen on it.

Joeylc with respect to the P/Supply being dead as a nail, it seems that there is a common problem with it, I'd perform the following:

1. Check all the Fuses, especially the two 'INPUT 3A' ones .
2. Check the ON/OFF switch.
2. Check if your input supply 110VAC or 240VAC arrives at the Transformers input coil. If not check wiring and the 'Noise Filter'.
3. Check the AC voltages ie 24V AC and 9.5V AC outputs, wrt to the 0VAC terminals of the transformer.
4. Check your 5V DC output on the Molex Connector, NOTE: Use the DC earth.

Hope this helps,
regards

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diecaster
« Reply #36 on: January 10, 2006, 01:12:53 PM »   
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My mistake also on the 22000 cap, I'm looking at the cap that is soldered across 2 legs of one of the bridge rectifiers.

I've made a list of components that I believe are the key to rebuilding my unit. The total cost is under $20.00 US

Below is a link to one of the best electronic part suppliers you can find. They have a great search engine that cross references various manufacturers part numbers.

http://www.mouser.com

Below is a list that I hope is correct to rebuild the Universal power supply based on components that normally fail.

1) 526-NTE5314  ( 400v 8 amp bridge rectifiers) QTY 3
2) 627-S2VB60    ( 200v 2 amp bridge rectifier) QTY 1
3) 647-UVR1H221MPA ( 220 uf 50v cap) QTY 1..............This is the one swelled and over heated on my power supply
4) 511-LM 323K ( 5v voltage regulator) QTY 1 This is a guess, but the specs seem correct

This list is using all the Mouser part numbers. I will be ordering shortly. I plan on changing everything but the voltage regulator on my rebuild, that's a spare.

Feel free to correct me if you find any discrepancies in my list.

Mark

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Cactusjack
« Reply #37 on: January 10, 2006, 01:41:11 PM »   
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If the LM323K is being suggested as a replacement for the 78H05 (or Joey's LT1003) it is wrong.  The LM323K is a 3 Amp 5 Volt Regulator and the 78H05K is a 5 Amp 5 Volt Regulator.

You can also use a NTE932 as a replacement for the 78H05/LT1003.

CJ

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Cactusjack
« Reply #44 on: January 11, 2006, 09:16:05 AM »   
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I doubt a 220 microfarad cap would be place across the AC terminals, especially if its an Electrolytic cap.  My guess is its probably across + and - of the bridge (don't see it in any pictures).  In the old days of Linear power supplies (which this appears to be since it uses a linear 5 volt regulator), it wasn't that uncommon to make a "band-aid" fix to a power supply when a large value cap (like the 22,000ufd you have mentioned) starts to reduce its overall microfarads, by adding another cap across it to replenish the capacitance (in this case, filtering).

And like was mentioned, it might have been an issue when going from 220 to 110 VAC but it should be since a properly tapped transformer will deliver the same on the secondary windings.  HOWEVER, it might have been an issue if it were designed to run at 60 Hertz, but was instead running at 50 Hertz.  In this case, there would be more time between AC waves that the filter caps had to hold their charge.

But 220ufd is small in comparison to 22,000ufd.  Does any one know what voltage portion of the power supply this bridge/cap combo feeds?

Of course, I could be totally wrong here. :25-

CJ

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Cactusjack
« Reply #45 on: January 11, 2006, 09:25:36 AM »   
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Overall, Bridge rectifiers are not all that exotic.  There are basically only a few packages and the package usually determines the maximum Amperage rating.  A picture would probably be all that is needed to tell you the amperage rating.

The large Black or Silver bricks with a bolt down the center are usually rated at 25 AMPS with some being 35 AMPS.  This 25 or 35 is often part of the part number.  The medium size black epoxy squares also with a center screw hole are usually rated at about 8 amps but there were some more exotic ones that were good for 12 AMPS.  The smaller black "rectangles" (with all 4 leads pointing down in one row) are usally 4 AMPS.  The small little round ones (smaller than a US Dime in diameter) are only 2 amps.  The are also some small rectangular ones that are only rated at 2 amps also.

As to voltage, it just depends on what AC is going in to it.  Since someone has mentioned 9.5VAC and 24VAC. In both cases, a 50 Volt bridge will do the job well.

CJ

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Cactusjack
« Reply #47 on: January 11, 2006, 05:30:38 PM »   
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As I recall, the 78H05K was also disconntinued back in the 90's.  So I could see how the NTE/ECG stock would have diminished by now.

I don't get any hits on the net other than people that might want to sell you their entire inventory.

It is possible, that the 3 amp part may work depending on how many TTL ICs are on all the boards.  But more than likely, the LM323K will either run hot or not put out enough 5 volts.

One possible solution would be to buy a small 5 volt only switching power supply to install in place of the entire 5 volt regulator circuit.

http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=15061+PS

OR the #23E101 on this page:
http://www.alltronics.com/power_sources.htm

Or this one from Mouser.com:

418-CFM40S050

CJ

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bware
« Reply #51 on: January 12, 2006, 09:43:11 PM »   
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Hi Mark,

Sorry for the delay.

1. Wrt:

If you say its across the output, i.e. the + and - terminals, of the Bridge then its a "protection" capacitor, it's function is to protect the Bridge and the circuit it feeds, if the capacitor, as shown in the wiring i.e 22000uf cap for example, goes open circuit. These big electrolytic caps, called "Paper Capacitors" as the insulation between the plates within the caps where made from paper. These Paper Caps are prone to go open circuit. I'll leave the small 220 uf cap across the Bridge. In fact it might be a good idea for me to mount one also. PLEASE TAKE A PIC of this cap this weekend sothat I can see which Bridge is affected.

2. Wrt your question, I would start a new thread called 'Universal Pty Ltd Machine Parts Source Data Listing' or something to that effect, as I feel that info will not be made visable to some as this thread has 'Stars & Stripes' in it, so people might not look here for that info, if they have another Universal Machine. You'll notice Ive placed the Pty Ltd to prevent the word Universal meaning 'universal' in general.

good luck,
regards

PS: Please take Pics this weekend, will be much appreciated. :89-

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bware
« Reply #77 on: February 09, 2006, 09:33:31 AM »   
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Hi All,
Ive modified the power supply section to meet my 'Yellow Dot' Power Supply for anyone interested.

regards

PS Very quiet on this thread lately?

One of the most common problems with Universal power supplies is failure of the noise filter. The filter is/was used to filter out interferences from casino lighting, etc. Not really needed for home use.
The filter is a little black box in the power supply. All I have seen are made by Tokin. To remove you need open up the power supply,(7 screws) then unscrew the noise filter from the power supply (2 screws), snip off the soldered wires. #1 and #2 are inlet,#3 and #4 are outlet. 
Snip #1 and #3 first (both brown wires) and then wire nut or butt-end them together. Then snip #2 and #4 (a blue and white wire) (wire color could vary) and wire nut/butt-end them.
Put the power supply cover back on and your done.
(Don't go poking around the capacitors in the power supply because they can poke back!  :50- )

The white arrow in the pic points to the noise filter.
 

I have a Universal Dynamite that is missing the power supply. Anyone have a PS to sell?
e-mail to scalawag@bellsouth.net

What model power supply do you have?

Calling all electronic experts!
We have a member who is having power supply trouble. There is 4.6Vac instead of 9.5Vac seen on an output pin.
Below is a schematic of the power supply. The red circle shows where 4.6Vac is seen rather than 9.5Vac. My inexperienced opinion is that there is a problem on the rectifier where I circled in yellow. This rectifier is putting out a good 5Vdc after the filter/capacitor, etc. And the 9.5Vac from the transformer is ok and putting out a good 12Vdc in the rectifier above the suspect one.
Is this assumption correct?

Hi

A Bridge rectifier is simply four diodes in one package - Test them as diodes with a multimeter on the diode check function. IE - High resistance in one direction and low on in the other. It sound like one of the diodes has gone open - In that case the test will show high resistance in both directions.

Ian

I agree with TZ...I had a pinball machine have that exact problem last year.
I replaced the bridge rectifier with a new one and haven't had a problem since.

Thanks for the input TZ and Bunker! :89-

Hello All

Uniman was referring to me with bad power supply in the post above. Uniman has been extremely helpful and patient with me trying to help me through this problem. He has almost exhausted all his thoughts about what this might be. I have all the correct readings except on pin 8 "should be 9.5ac"  I have included a schematic of all the readings for the points Uniman had me check which included the rectifier readings and flow. The question here is does anyone else have an idea of what to look for or where I might check next? Uniman sent me pic's and his power supply indeed has slightly more than 9.5ac at pin 8 to ground. Uniman please correct me if I have miss stated anything here or on the schematic.
Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

Rodney

Have you changed out the two bridge rectifiers at point #4 & #5 locations?

Hi There

Is the 4.5Vac measured against cabinet ground? All your readings indicate that the PSU is good. I would suspect a faulty ground cable or that your house wiring is not right.
Its been years since i worked on one of these - What does the 9.5 VAC actually get used for ?

Ian

Actually Ian

All the readings are good as long as your reading from 0 and 9.5 at transformer to points before rectifier reaches case ground, any after rectifier read half the voltage. The continuity in the power cable checks out good. I will try moving the power supply to a few more plugs in the house to see if theres a change. The house is 40 plus years old and may have some bad plugs.   

Hello stayouttadabunker

I assume your talking about the 5vdc and the 12vdc rectifiers. Nope I haven't. In the schematic I posted I showed the readings from both rectifiers. They were consistent in that both had flow in one direction and both had similar resistance readings. I did look for replacements but don't know enough about the ratings on them to know if one would work fine as a replacement. " couldn't find any exact replacements".

Rodney

OK Ian

I tried two other plugs in the house and went as far as to pull the cover off one of them to check the ground, common and 110v were in the correct order on the plug and read them by meter lol. They were correct with no change in the power supply. This has been a nightmare and I just know it's something simple I have over looked.

Rodney

You're right - it could be something simply overlooked.
Can you post up a good clear photo for us of your power supply?
With the cover off?
I want to take a peek and see if I can spot anything.
Use good lighting if you can...
I have a few power supplies and may I see something physically wrong perhaps?
Maybe I can sell you one of mine but I need to see the guts of yours for comparison.

Hello Novoid

After having a closer look at the schematics I would not suspect the bridge rectifier as your 5 V and 12 V are good. Have you tested the 5V and 12V with the machine switched on and the power supplu under load?

I am not convinced that the 4.5Vac is the source of the problem - SB can you maybe disconnect this voltgae and see if mach still powers up on your machine. I dont have one to test.
What exactly is your machine doing / not doing?

Ian

TZ,
I don't have a machine so I don't know how it responds under "load" conditions.
I'd suspect it would act slightly different if a hopper or reels are connected.
I wish I could help you & Novoid there. :8-


P.S.
The reason I have Universal Power Supplies is because I acquired an
Universal Test Machine Unit for Universal boards last winter on fleabay.
I haven't acquired the hopper or assembled a proper reel harness for it yet to try it out.

Sorry guys

A little history, I purchased the machine about two weeks ago. Uniman has been trying to help me eliminate the power supply as a source of trouble. The machine lights up Floresent bulbs and some back ground lights but no other machine functions except slight coin hopper rotation when switched on.

stayouttadabunker
Trying to get you those pics now.

Rodney

Hello Rodney

Ok had a look at the manual - It looks like the processor uses the 9.5 Vac signal to detect if the incomimg voltage is low. From what I am reading your machine should show a code 11 if the 9.5VAC signal is the only problem. Since this is not the case I would think that there is another problem that has not been identified yet.

Without a operational machine to check this is of course educated guessing. Maybe Uniman can confirm my suspicions when he sees this post.

Ian

Nice find Ian  :131-

Guess I need to get the MPU checked out first. Agreed though Uniman may have some more input here.


stayouttadabunker
The pics of the power supply plus other machine pics are on my profile page. I have not been able to figure out how to reduce pic's to post them yet.  :37- They are too large to post on threads.  :103-

Rodney

I checked out you profile photo's of the machine. Good pictures!  :3-
You better get some tape stuck onto those chips occupying locations 2A and 4A on the main board.
If not, you're going to have more problems.
The UV glass on those eproms must be covered and protected in order to save what's burned onto them.
Those are the main game and reel chips!!!
Use a piece of black electrical tape for now.

Looks like TZ found out that the power may NOT be the problem
because you're not getting the "11" error code yet.

Can you give us more details as to what problems you're having and what is happening.
The more you can tell us - the more we can tell you!

Finally, there's not a whole lot of Universal owners...so the very few
try their best to help each other out as best as possible.
ADD>>> I also noticed that your power supply is in excellent looking shape!
It's way better than any of the ones I have...

Hello stayouttadabunker

Not much more to tell other than what I posted earlier. The only thing that works is some lighting and slight rotation on coin hopper. Theres more to tell about whats not working lol.  :37-
There's no display for codes, no reel movement, only slight hopper movement when switched on and no action when coins are dropped in. Theres a lot of bulbs out for the back ground stuff, are the buttons for spin, credit, etc. bulbs on the same circuit and should they be on too?
Uniman told me to get the Eproms covered too. 
Anyways Uniman has agreed to take in my MPU board and try it on one of his machines. I figure that's the only way will know if I have a MPU problem. Uniman and I were just trying to make sure I didn't have a bad power supply before I sent out the MPU.
Wish I had more info guys but not enough is working to tell you more.
Thanks to all of you for the input, can't tell you how valuable the info has been. Hopefully I can give back the same here someday.

Rodney

Yes I agree. Either the 5Vdc is not stable or the board has a problem too. The board is on it's way to me to check out. If it is ok then I would suspect the 5Vdc circuit is the cause of all these problems.

Jim

Update; Board was DOA.  :47- 
Chips were good. Working, tested, replacement board on the way with chips installed to try with suspect power supply.

Dear Fellow forum members and or possibly uniman

Have been trying to post a little on a Universal Machine I recently aquired it's a Fire Bird five reel machine and yes it's an Aussie make. the main board had 3 missing caps they were 104Z 12v which I replaced . the machine did nothing but same ole same 9ole as many guys who have posted here nothing save the hum of the speaker, After replacing the caps the error code LEDS began to work again but thats is all. The power supplu in the machine is different than the 4 colour coded ones that Uniman has covered. The noise filter is directly soldered to the the PSU PCB this has no wire connections like the other. so if it is removed there will be no immediate near by wires/leads to connect it too. Might I ask how I would manage to complete the missing circuit connection after it's removal. I will try to ad pics but have been having problems doing that in here.

The reset key switch is missing the the key of course but being an x lock smith I can manage to shim it open or pick it. The wires are no longer connected to the rear and there are three wires near the siwtch which I believe are the proper ones however no life from them at all. The machine lacks a hopper and the coin detector is inoperative however I feel it's  worth the effort to try and restore. So like all the others I would be very grateful for any assistance here .

Wishing you all the very finest of Holidays

NZ Rick

A bit late on this reply!
I have a power supply from an Un poker machine. My rectifier board looks much different than the one posted above. I would check the input and then output of the noise filter to determine if it is ok. Also, I do not see the 5v regulator. See my next post below.

Added; I have an Aussie power supply that matches the one above. I had mistaken the poker power supply for the Aussie power supply. Corrected my posts.

Recently repaired a Uni narrow power supply by taking the rectifier board out of an Aussie Uni poker power supply.
Checked out the defective board tonight and found the problem. There is a 5v regulator attached outside the power supply. It has two pins that reach the rectifier board, go through two holes and are pressed against two little solder domes. What I found was one of the solder domes had broken off leaving a pin unconnected. I had taken a picture of the defective board after I removed it/before I knew the problem but didn't post it as it was blurry. But you can see the hole in the solder in the pic where I added a red circle.
Took out the regulator, resoldered the dome and replaced the regulator. Tested and it works great.

If you have a Uni Narrow slot or maybe an Aussie Uni poker with bad 5vdc this maybe the problem.

Picture of the 5v regulator (the round metal object below the right connector)
And the Uni poker rectifier board I have.

Hi Uniman

Wanted to thank you much for your response to my earlier posting re uni power supply. as I also posted at the same time there is a 14V AC adapter which was added to the power supply for who knows what purpose. the two power cord leads are soldered onto the on off switch for the inside of the power supply directly to the rear of the switch and the other free end of the adapter is detached from whatever it was once connected too. As this adapter doesn't seem to be part of the original arrangement I am stumped as to where it was intended to go. 

I am also a total dud when it comes to electronics so am in total darkness when you suggest that I check the noise filter as I do not know what is involved with checking it. I do have a hand held multimeter but do not know where to place the leads to check. The leads that connected to the reset lock switch seem dead there is no spark that comes from them when touched together.

Looks like perhaps a real hard case here.


Very much appreciate your kind input and time here.

You be well good sir

Cheers

NZRick

Well NZRick, I'm not very good with electronic circuits either, but I'm learning. In fact I had errored, the replacement rectifier board was from an old Uni poker machine, not the Aussie machine. Found the Aussie power supply in a box on one of my shelfs. It has the same rectifier board as yours. I corrected my above posts. :25-
As far as your noise filter, it looks like a different brand than the ones that commonly fail.
When I say check it I mean look for continuity in the input/output of the noise filter. This would require setting your meter to ohms and putting one lead on the input and the other on the output. If your meter doesn't move then the circuit is broken in the noise filter.
I'll check my Aussie power supply tomorrow and see what voltages it has.

Uniman

I am very grateful again for your taking the time to share your sage on this subject. When I say I don't' know much about electronics I mean I am a total wally. Not sure which would be input or output and that would be very likely to most in here I would imagine but not thee ole git here. Do I look for a specific board contact location for the tester probes and would also guess that power would have to be applied. DUH to me.I am still puzzling as to why someone would have attached the separate 14V power adapter to the  on off switch unless there was something dead on the power board itself. will take a pic of the debacle and post it for thine scrutiny kind sir. I also have a copy of the universal manual but have found it very difficult at best to decode as I believe the illustrations would be most likely interpreted via electron microscope.It' just not a great manual this one and I am not schooled in the art of schematic deciphering 

Much much thanks and well wishing mate.

NZ Rick

Hi Rick,
Ok, so you are a "total wally". I'm just slightly ahead of you.  :72-

You have a machine that will not start up. First thing to check is all connections. Then check power supply. After that suspect the mpu board.
So I assume you have checked the connections. Let's look at the power supply. No need to disassemble yet, just need to check the outputs. Especially the 5vdc, that is what powers the mpu board.
Pink wires are +5vdc, black wires are ground. Here in the states an orange wire is 24vdc and violet wire is 32vdc. On my Aussie power supply I see 14vdc on orange and 40vdc on violet. Not sure if this is normal or not?
You should check the 5vdc. See the picture below. I have my cheapo-wal-mart meter set to 10vdc and the red (+) lead on the pin to a pink wire and the black (ground) on the pin with a black wire. My meter shows 5vdc telling me I do not need to check the noise filter as power is getting through.

WARNING: you are new to this. Do not stick your fingers in the power supply while it is on! Also, even with the power supply off those black cylinders on the rectifier board are capacitors. They store voltage and touching their two leads at the same time will shock you good!! Proceed at your own risk!

Leaving the black lead on the black wire pin you can move the red lead to an orange wire to see if you get 14vdc also.

Looking at my power supply from the back the wiring is like this on the 15-pin connector;
                                                                                               orange    orange   yellow/blk strip    grey          black
                                                                                               violet      yellow    black                  pink          black
                                                                                               violet      white     black                  pink           red 

Sir Uniman,

NOW one begins to build a picture of which approach to take here. You have just filled in ALL those vacancies up here in the empty head motel. Thine truly arteth a flower amongeth weeds sir. Now the next bit is trying to find two sets of IGT door sensors which should prove as easy as finding a wallet that fell from a Cessna Skylane stuffed with $3 bills

I am in your debt sire for this priceless information.

Be well up there in your corner of the global woods good sir

Wishing you all good things from the land of the long white cloud

Rick

Helllo, I have a Universal "Double Black Jack" slot machine that was working when I first got it. It now shows an error code of "12" in the display. The error code list located inside the cabinet says that it is "battery polarity". Can anyone help with this? thanks

I assume you have an 8600 board in that Double Black Jack.
Now I don't know why they printed Battery Polarity on the error code list??? It actually is a ram error. That usually means the battery on the board is going bad.
Can't remember where the ram clear button is on an 8600 board? But you need to hold the clear button while powering up the machine. But as soon as you shut it off the ram will go bad again until the battery is replaced.

Ram clear button is located on the right side of the board, says RESET SW next to it.

This link has pic of 8600 board; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=4364.0

Uniman, u seem to know your stuff when it comes to these machines. I appreciate the imput and I am on my way to my machine to try your fix. I will update you and upload some pics of it too. thanks