New Life Games Tech Forums

Trying to remove buttons (one appears to have a burned out bulb and the others seems kind of sluggish). I figured that the black plastic collars underneath need to be turned counter-clockwise to remove but it's really tight and I don't want to break anything.
Am I attempting this correctly?  :103-

Okay I got the button off the machine...that booger was really tight.  Now, how do I get the button apart to get to the bulb, clean the contacts and de-gunk it?

That you are. If they haven't been off in a while they can be a little tight, but you don't need to take the bases off to change a bulb. The switch and light socket will pull out of the bottom of the switch. Here again, it will be a little difficult to remove and remount, but that's the way it's done. With the machine turned off. And make sure you can push the button and hear the microswitch click closed and open after remounting the socket

Okay...I figured out how the bulb pulls out...thanks!  Do you know what bulb they take?  Also, is there a way to clean/lube the switches to make them more responsive?  I sometimes have to push 2 or 3 times.

I beleive those use a 12v bulb, but can't remember the number right now. Should be printed on the bulb though. Those microswitches are sealed, non-serviceable. If you post a WTB ad in the classifieds here on the site you'll probably get a response from one of the vendors or you can contact one of their sites listed on the home page. For the time being, you could swap the finicky switch with one that probably hasn't been used a lot like the service switch or change switch

I put one of my 6.3 volt bulbs in... seems to be working for now..

TomH  My guess would be the switch you have to push a few times is you didn't push the lower half up into upper half quite far enough, that are it's just a Little bit crooked.  

Now you have posted in the S  S+ section.  If you have a  S or S+ the voltage to the bulbs is 6.3 volts. Just in case you have a S2000 it uses 14 volts ( you can get by using 12 ) Both machines the bulb is called a 3 1/4 wedge base.   S+ you need a 755,  S 2000 use a 161 or 194.

Buzz, based on his original post I believe he had the button problem prior to changing the light so I assume he has a failing switch

This is a different switch than the one I changed the light bulb on.  Everything is tight and the switch "clicks" when its pushed it just doesn't always activate.  I plan to change the switch.

Thanks for your replies!  I love this forum!  I wouldn't want to own a slot without being a member on here.

My S+ buttons used to be gunky. When you have them off the machine, you can fully disassemble them to clean the gunk out. Squeeze the two white tabs together (gently, they tend to be brittle after all these years) and then push them up the tube to pop the white plastic out of the black plastic. Wash all of the plastic parts including the legend insert in warm soapy water (any dish soap is fine). (Be careful not to scrub the inserts too hard or you'll rub the text off of them.) Let the parts dry and then put them back together.

(Note, this won't fix your microswitches, so if you still have poor button response, those are then the likely culprit.)

Those sticky switches are from friends drooling on your machines Knagl, tell them to get their own! :97- :97-

As you probably figured out by now, you did not need to remove the whole button assembly.

Also the change switch is a good one to use to swap with a flaky one since it's rarely used.

On a side note, I have two different types of switches on my S+ machines. On one, the micro-switches just pull straight down. On the other you turn them first.

poppo  You forgot that one little bit of info, to remove turn CW. To install CCW

Yeah, I was too lazy to get up and look.  :294-

I remember because I broke a brand new one by turning it the wrong way.  I figure a left handed Chinaman must have designed that one.  ( Big Blue and his lefthanded parts. )   :79- :79- :79-