New Life Games Tech Forums

As a few of you know, I've recently bought this S plus Double Diamond Deluxe...the nudge machine. After massive cleaning of dust, dirt, spiders and tar from cigarettes (hmmm...I bet even the spiders inside this machine were smoking!  :208-), I replaced the battery and performed the appropriate reset actions (thanks to smarter members who helped) and got it up and running. Now I'm waiting on some new BV parts. In the meantime I got back to the fact that some moron painted the case AND the stand with latex paint, with a brush! There were enough nicks on the side that I could see that it WAS a nice white cabinet originally, which I don't see too often. So tonight I did some masking of the sides and took out my Home Depot purchased "natural" paint stripper ("Citrustrip"), sprayed it on carefully, waited a few minutes and the latex just sort of started to fall away. It wasn't too hard to do, but still was messy. Here's the result! I'm not really "restoring" the machine. It had heavy use in a racetrack and casino but I've been able to clean it up quite well. My next step is to re-glue some of the veneer side that's peeling away. Here's my before and after shots. CLICK on the pics for super high resolution.

The difference is between day and smoggy cloudy day! :200- :72- :97- (Night and day would have worked if you found black underneath!) :208- HA HA

Good Job, quite an improvement! :244-

CH :95-

Looks great! What a difference!

I just cleaned a white cabinet machine like yours STS and it came from a smoking room.
Holy Crap! I wish I would of had my camera when I saw the yellow streaks coming down the machine from the nicotine! Eew!
I used about half of a bottle of Windex and a whole roll of paper towels..."Bounty" or "Brawny" I think... :96-

Each time I get a little more detailed in cleaning, I still manage to get clumps of that lovely yellow muck as well, stuck in and around the BV opening, and just above the cash tray, where all those thousands of greedy nicotine-stained hands reached in to grab their loot!  :56-
This has been the most fun machine to work on so far. I really didn't think it would come out as clean as it has so far, considering it's heavy use and that the chrome isn't all there anymore, especially near the BET 5 CREDITS area, where those same thousands of hands were resting their palms...pounding away at that button, hoping for the BIG THREE DD's!
I'm thinking I may just look for some kind of heavy duty adhesive pad that I could just stick there, over the worn chrome, if something like that is out there?
The other thing I want to do is glue the sides back in but I need to figure out some way to hold them in while the glue sets. I guess I could just remove the hopper and set the machine on its side. I need a huge wood vise thing so I can squeeze it from the sides!

I'm not kidding ya....some guys take the button deck out
and take it to their local chrome refinishing shop.
Places that restore old cars
and "Deluxe" refrigerators... :72-

Depending on how bad the sides are lifting, we've used wide painters tape (Frog brand? I think?) to hold it in place while the glue dries.  :89-

This works fine on smaller areas, like corners. If a large area of the veneer/laminate is lifted, then you will need to use a piece of plywood (appropriately sized to distribute the pressure) and a vise though.

If only all the questions could be this easy.     http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=clamps

Thanks everyone!  :92-


 I like the tape idea...I think I can just wrap a corner tightly, or maybe completely around the machine while it sets. I still may get a clamp for future work...I like the variety there on that link.  I finished stripping the other side just, and it's now latex free! Just need to glue the sides, and then strip the latex off the cabinet...er SAND it off the cabinet. I don't think it's an IGT but it's identical. It's all wood...no veneering  either but it looks factory made with the proper holes in the top and very heavy duty. But no door, only notches in the bottom and side. It looks almost as if a different casino had this made for use without the coin overflow can.  :103-

Why bother using clamps?

Use contact cement. This is what is used at the factory or any shop that does cabinet work.
Peal open the loose corners until you find where it is still bonded good.
Then cover both the machine side and the Formica side and hold open until dry. Ususally 5 to 10 min depending on temp and humidity.
as soon as the two side touch each other and make contact, they are bonded. like cement.

I guess that's why is called contact cement. :30-
No clamps, no worries. You only get one shot, so be sure the Formica is line up. If your only doing loose corners the there is no issue with it not lining up.

Hmmm...I like that idea too. What if I use my wood glue and spread it to as far as the veneer is peeled (just a thin layer...I use a wooden skewer) and then use the contact cement close to the corners/edges?

Those spiders had the nerve to ask me for DRINKS too!  :72-

Not sure about wood glue for metal and Formica.....

I always try to use a product for its intended purpose

Good point. I wasn't thinking...my last gluing was on my Mills and that was actually wood veneer on a wood cabinet. I'll head to Home Depot tomorrow for glue advice...I don't want to get into a sticky predicament!  :72-

Go to a smaller hardware store, the advice might be more accurate and quicker to get.
you might spend a bit more but the advice makes up for the slightly higher price.

There's a small Ace  hardware near my house. It used to be a family owned independent - changed to Ace but kept all the old guys from the other name. I'll go there. Thanks again, everyone.  :259-

 :81-  over the years I have encountered many machines that the sides have stared to peel away. they make a spray adhesive specifically for laminate, and it works as advertised. Basically to repair the laminate that has separated from the machine, GENTLY pry the laminate to a point where you can get some adhesive on a decent working area. maybe a 1/2 inch or so. then place a screw driver or some other device to keep the area open and the laminate away from the surface of the machine. spray the two areas with adhesive, wait for it to set , remove the screw driver, and presto-- that area will never come loose.
 
If no one has ever worked with this stuff, let me explain,  the adhesive comes plain or with a red tracer mixed in, the purpose of the tracer is for the person using the adhesive to see exactly where they have sprayed. when you spray it on the surface that you are going to re glue, it only has to set for 1 minute, and make dam sure that when you press the two  pieces together  that they are where you want them, because once they come in contact with one another you will never separate them without breaking something. you don't need any clamps or tape or anything, if you follow the directions ,you will  have a bond that will last a long time.

3M makes a spray adhesive that works, you can purchase it at Lowe's, Home Depot, or any hardware store.

Hope this helps.

Jim   

I did a patch up with contact cement, BUT I think for the time I spent shoving it as far in as possible,  (with a thin skewer) I could have just peeled up the laminate and used the spray adhesive, as Jim said. I guess I didn't feel like dealing with masking everything although I already did when I removed the latex from the laminate!  
I should have just made the spray adhesive the next step after removing the latex.   :25-
The contact cement is holding but only in the obvious areas where the laminate was clearly away from the case. I wonder if I could attach a tube to a spray adhesive and be able to direct enough adhesive further in before the tube clogs?  

the spray can has three adjustable settings, it will shoot a stream in pretty far.  if there is any residue on any of the outside surface, it can be peeled off or cleaned with laq. thinner. it will not harm the laminate.


Jim

Okay today was strip the cabinet day. To my amazement, it WAS an IGT stand and had the same veneer on the sides top and upper front. I had previously stripped the lower part and it was just wood. After looking inside, I realized that someone removed the original door, measured out and cut a piece of birch, and nailed it in...very neatly. I didn't know what to do with that front. I sanded it smooth but didn't feel like stripping it to the bare wood. Plus, the grain was going horizontal and I though that would look weird if I just stained it. The lower piece was black veneer but the paint was REALLY stuck to it, so it got sanded as well. I finally decided on hammertone gold, which matched the gold in the Double Diamond symbol belly glass. The paint looks a bit green...that's just the camera. Here's the before and after of the cabinet.

And finally, here's the whole thing.

 :244- :244- :244- :244- :244-

GREAT JOB!  LOOKS GREAT!

The slot I recently cleaned was dripping in black yellowish tar when I would spray Fantastic on it ... I know the cleaning work.  You did "Fantastic!"

  :96-

 :3- :3- :3- :3- Looks Great!! :3- :3- :3-

Thanks to Poppo who sent me some nice s plus reel glass, I've further "restored" my S plus (formerly latex painted) slot machine.
Since I purchased it, full of dirt and spiders, broken and painted in latex, I've cleaned it, repaired it, including the DBV 145 (knock on wood), stripped the latex paint off, revealing the original NICE white finish, and stripped the stand, also revealing the white. Next I painted the front panel of the stand, which had been replaced.
TODAY I replaced the reel glass with a nice used piece that matched the condition of the slot. I thought it just fit better than using the new piece and it looks GREAT to me, much better than one with a big weird chip in it.
I've enjoyed bringing this machine back to, sort of the condition that you'd find it in if it were sitting at an older downtown casino on Fremont Street in Vegas, or perhaps at the Pioneer in Laughlin. It's well used, but clean, and has a nice look to it, even with all the markings of a machine that has been played by many hands!
I always wonder WHO played it?  :103-
What pieces of jewelry were responsive for scratching off the chrome just below the BET 5 COINS button??? Who "owned" this machine for however-many-hours they played??? You've all seen those old ladies that sneer and scowl if you get too close to "their" machine!  :290-
How many times did it hit the big jackpot, go into the "bip bip bip bip bip" hand pay mode and attract a small crowd, saying CONGRATULATIONS to the winner?  :148-  :244-
 Its day in the casinos are long long gone, but at least now it has a new life in my home!
Thanks again Poppo for helping out.  :259-

The machine hit the two Double Diamonds + 7 right after I powered it up and played with new glass in it!

Looks good! Can't believe that paint came off...lots of work!    :133- :133- :133-

You must have just seen my paint before and after pics! Yes...that was the hardest thing to do and I still have no idea why anyone would paint OVER the nice white finish. The guy I bought it from said it, apparently, came from a nun's home...or home of nuns! Maybe they painted it to match the pews? :72-
I used some supposedly "more natural" paint remover and did that over two days back in April. I removed the reel glass then to replace the denomination label as well.
Finally, last night, I replaced the entire reel glass as is seen in the final pictures.

You did a grat job with that machine STS!
Kudos + to ya!  :3-