New Life Games Tech Forums

I am new here and just purchased a non working machine but thanks to all the great posts on here it is almost back up and running. problem I have is that it just doesn't seem to want to read quarters at all. I'm not really sure what I am doing but i adjusted it so the coin falls through like I think it should but half the time it comes out in the bottom tray but even when the coin goes in the hopper I still get no credit for it. I think if I had an idea how the coin comparitor worked I could prob figure it out but iI am totally lost at this point so any help would be greatly appreciated. If its any help the coin comparitor say CC-620 "B" .570. on it.

does it have a sample coin in it?

Yea im pretty sure. I stuck a quarter in the outer piece that slides back and forth then tightened it down and left it in there seems like the coin falls and there is a solenoid that would move and let the coin go into the hopper but it doesn't seem to be working but it does move when i adjust the sensitivity so i think its just not recognizing the coin. Even when it goes to the hopper it doesn't give me any credit.

Does the insert coin light flash on the front of the machine? 

The coin comparitor and sample only decides if the coin should should be accepted or returned.  If it is a match the rake open and the coin goes straight through and is counted by the optics.  If not a match it returns to the tray. Assuming you have a code 51 and insert coin,  Try to shim the rake open,  just use a paper clip, stick or what ever.  The door must be closed or the cherry switch pulled out.  See if any coins count.  Will it take dollar bills or is BV off?  Also have you reseated the board?  I have had the infamous back plane connector issues cause my machine to not take coins.

Also was it set up for quarters before?  If set for $1 or $5 the rake that forces the quarter past the optic will need adjustment.

The insert coin light is on i was getting a code 97 so i shut down the bv. I have no clue if it was set up for bills only this is the closest ive gotten to getting it to work. What part is the rake. I have reseated the board several times and cleaned it really good that was a big part of getting it to where im at now. I was gonna worry about the bv later once i got it working but maybe i should just try and get it going now and see if that way works.

picture is the rake.   I used the wrong term  the rake will reject the coin.  Shim this open.   the guide is what will direct the coin past the optic.   Don't play with BV just yet.  

Uniman will probably jump in with some ideas for you.

this is the guide.  See the marks on the black and the silver guide that just sticks out?

Yea I held the rake open that is what i have to do to make the coins go into the hopper. Is the little black thing at the bottom the sensor? Mine has a little metal L bracket coming off of it I adjusted it to just fit the size of the quarter through it. Ill take a pic here in a few when I head home for lunch.

the black to the right of my finger is the sensor.  So it will only send coins to hopper with rake propped open?  I assume you are using something to prop open and shutting the door or pulling the cherry switch out while holding the rack open.  I am trying to make sure because if the door is open you will have a code 50 and no insert coin light.

Yea I pulled the switch out and did it with the door open I also tried it with the door shut but still no luck

I did get a code 24 but i went away after i did a restart. It does have in issue now that when I start it if I dont reset the board I will get no front leds and the little flap that sends the quarters to the hopper just flips back and forth every 5 or so seconds.

make sure A10 on EC1 back plane is clean.  I believe that is the pin to feed the comparitor power.  I also forgot to mention that when testing with door open and switch pulled, you need to put tape over door optic.  I leave tape on mine all the time.   Also assuming that this is an upright reseat the ribbon cable and check the connector going to the comp on the display end and comp end.

How that is acting flacky I am still saying back plane.  Did you try the trick with power off soak the male and female ends of back plane connector with contact cleaner then insert board several times?

Yea I did tape the lock sensor another one of the great things from this forum. I soaked every connector i could get my hands on and brass brushed them all good but you could be right if i touch the main board at all I loose the 4 little leds so ill try cleaning it again.

sounds like back plane for sure.  try rocking it as you push in and make sure it is fully seated.  I have had good luck with a product called deoxit.  I got a tiny tube of it and inserted every pin on the the back plane connector to coat it with deoxit.   This is the stuff.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/DeoxIT-Gold-Contact-Enhancer-Preservative-Lubricant-2mL-100-Solution-connector-/280848904354?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4163e630a2#ht_2186wt_901 

I will say that I think you can clean it enough to get it running the deoxit seems to eliminate some of the intermittent stuff

yea I have a little trick i cam up with at work ill try tonight. I take liquid flux and put a few small drops on a small paper clip and stab each terminal a few times the flux cleans it really good and its a small amount so it wont make a mess then flush it clean with the contact cleaner. It is really time consuming so I just haven't tried it yet but looks like ill spend the time tonight. Hope it works I have a feeling your right it will prob work.

Well the board goes in farther now and feels like it fits better but now im getting the tilt light and code 24. Could it be a problem in the harness from the coin assembly to that little module thing? Looks like some one did kind of a crap repair job on a few of the wires but they all look like they are making connection but not 100% sure. Gonna look through my electrical scrap pile and see if i can find any female pins i can use fit in the connector.

I assume you have done a ram clear several times and you keep coming back to a 24?  Has the solenoid clicking stopped?  Have you reseated the ribbon cable at both ends?  Please post a picture of the wire damage that you are seeing.  The 24 is a coin comparitor error but I am not sure what it is looking at,  I have never had that one. 

I am hoping Uniman jumps in soon and has some ideas.  Where are you located?  If you happen to be SE Michigan I could test your comparitor in one of my machines.

Not quite right here. The CC-62D verifies the coin is correct, opens the rake to let it pass, and sends a pulse to the board counting the coin. No optics after the comparitor. Unless the diverter is open and it sends the coin to overflow bucket that would be located in the stand at the casino. Then an optic counts it as sent to the overflow.
Your symptoms sound like classic board to backplane problem. But like Jbshocks said; check the connector just above-left of the comparitor where it connects to the green board in the door. Make sure both ends are snapped in. Then check that big gray ribbon cable at the door and the backplane. You need to remove reel #1 to get to it. Disconnect cable and reconnect it making sure it is firmly snapped in top and bottom. I had one of these loose before and it drove me nuts as I was thinking board connection. Best to eliminate obvious first.
You did the right thing by shutting off the BV. Get the machine up and running and then tackle the BV.

Hard to get a good picture but I did find the orange wire that goes from the coin unit to the comparitor had been soldered into the female pin and it filled the pin with solder so when you push the clip in it pushes that 1 pin out of the back of the connector. Is there a source for those connector ends I know ive seen them before but don't remember what I saw them on. Would love to find some so I could just splice them. Looks like several of the wires at the comparitor are starting to break apart. But even if i hold the wire in so it is making connection I still get the code but cleaning the board did make the solenoid stop cycling. I am a little far away I am in California. I have cleaned all the terminals on the grey ribon several times. I didnt get code 24 till I moved the coin catch thing I was moving it wound then all of a sudden I got tilt and 24 came up.

does a ram clear get rid of the 24 at all at this point.  I believe the connectors are a .1 molex and you can get them here http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Category-70.asp  I tried a .1 molex male pin in the the female end and it fits perfect.

No the code is still there after the ram clear.

K i ended up pulling the whole coin comparitor out found 2 wires broken and 4 others just hanging on by 1 or 2 strands. Brought it to work with me today so I plan on fixing all the wires and trying it out once that is fixed. Hope that takes care of it. Is the a diagram at all for the comparitor any where?

top connector goes to coin sensor and top down order is yellow, red, white, blank, black.  next 3 wire connector to front optic black, purple, orange.  2 wire connectors to solenoid, both green.  2 wire connector to back of optic black, red.

thanks that will help alot seems like every time I move the wires 1 brakes off.

Thanks for the wire coding i found in the first 5 pin connector some one had put the black wire in the #4 slot not #5.

did that fix it?

Nope. So I pulled and reset the board again several times. Soaked all connectors with terminal cleaner rocked board back and fourth but still nothing. Still get the flashing tilt and 24, 50 and 19. If I pull out door pin it turns to 51. So as far as I know I just need to get 24 gone and I should be good.

I disconnected CN4 on the door that leads to the comaritor to see what would happen,  I don't get an error code but obviously the comp stops working.  It makes me think that the code gets set by a short or something and not an open.  My game having credits was still playable with no comp.  So try disconnecting CN4 and see if you lose the code.  do a ram clear if you have to.  If that does not clear it disconnect the ribbon and see.  If disconnecting one of those resolves the code you have isolated the area.  If it does not then we are probably still looking at board/back plane.  Its funny that you get a 51 with a 24.

Ah now we are getting some where good call I disconnected cn4 and and 24 went away and got insert coin again. Do you have a pin identification for cn4. I can start removing pin by pin but seems like a lot of work. My guess is its a power wire that is grounding out some where but sure witch one is power other then the red one and that is just a guess.

I will try to get you the colors later.  plug CN4 in and unplug the connector on the right side of the comp.  If you get stuck on this you may be able to get BV running without the comp plugged in.   Is it just the very thin wires within the comp that are screwed up or is the harness from CN4 also messed up?

Ok pulled main connector on right side of comparitor and no 24. So I pulled connectors one by one on the other side and even with them all out still have 24. I am assuming that the comparitor is bad. I pulled it apart didnt see any black circuits or anything obvious. Is it hard to find a comparitor?

  It would be a cc-62d  rudy's has a 62 but I am not 100% sure it is correct.  I think it is.  http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=482   hopefully Uniman can answer what you need for a comp.  In the mean time you can follow Uniman's BV write up and try to get it working on paper money.  Remember it will only take current  1 dollar bills

Well at least the machine is up and working now with the BV going. Looks like I need a comparitor. I also need the little piece from the front door to the BV. Ive seen in some pictures there is like a bill guide that goes on the front of the bv an ideas where I can pick one of those up? Thanks for all the help so far I am glad that its alive finally all that's left now is to get coins working in it.

Looks like the pull arm on the side is not working but other then that and the comparitor its all working good.

glad it is running. can you post a picture of where you are missing a part?  Read the sticky on handle diagnostics and come back with questions.

FYI you can change the dips to get 100 credits per dollar.

Im not near the machine now but i did find a picture of what I am missing it it the orange part on the front of the BV. It takes bills just fine but it takes a nit right now to try and get the bill lined up just right. It takes less time to just open the door and pull the door switch then add the bills then it does to line it all up.

 :131-  :131- Thanks a ton I got the new CC installed today and now it works just fine. I also found the piece for the BV so it is working fine now also .Now im gonna try and trouble shoot the pull handle and it will be all done. Thanks again for all the help. :3-  :3-  :3-

That's great!
Finding a "duckbill" for the bv isn't easy. Glad you got one.

Jim

Well a new problem came up. I moved a few of the dip switches around so it would go to cash out and not credit and I changed the BV back to 25 cents.. Now I have a code 53 foor the cash door Any idea what i did wrong now. Have tried resetting the board several times but no luck.

Ok now im good and lost it says code 53 is for the cash box door but what is the cash box door? I know its not the main door and its not the BV door so what other doors are there?

The cash box being the item that holds the paper money, I would think the cash box door would be the one that keeps the public away from the cash box.  :103- :103-

yea thats what I thought to but if I open the front lower door I get a code 97 or 99 for the BV door.

The cashbox door is the bottom glass, frame and light box. Open the door and look underneath the flourescent light starters.  Near the door hinges, (far away from the BV!) There is a cherry switch mounted in the light box. That is the source of your error code. Disconnect the wires and jumper them together. Light blue and black/white stripe wires. This should eliminate error 53.

The casino's only needed to open the belly glass to empty the BV cashcan. So that switch was put there to assure belly door was closed. A lot of times the switch comes loose and can be dislodged from it's position and not close when it should.

If I open the belly glass I get a code 99 and my tag says code 99 is for the BV door. I did find a bad connection on the main power board to the BV but I removed it and re soldered it but still nothing. not sure what is going on could it be a board connection problem again because now I have code 97 came back after a lot off messing with the machine. I tried moving all the dip switches back to what they where before when the machine was working fine but it didn't help.

Your right, my bad!  :25-
The belly glass door is error 99. (still good to jumper it) All BV related errors are in the 90's. The error 53 is not one I see. Believe it might be a slant top error and not an upright error. Slant tops have the main top door, a hopper door, and an overflow coin drawer. Each had a cherry switch and would error when opened. Not sure which error. Uprights have different backplanes than slants.
We need JBshocks to test his doors on his slant top, I'll email him.

Sorry for the delay but I have looked at my slant tops and according to the error code label inside, the 53 is the cash box door which on a slant top is equivalent to dropping coins into the stand.  It is the small door on the lower right (wad werks if yours is upright you don't have this door)  This is a simple cherry switch with 2 wires and is connected directly to the back plane.  One of mine is connected the other is not  I can not get a code 53 no matter what I do, disconnect the wiring, short the connectors nothing so I would say that it is disabled in some way.  There is also no jumper on the back plane.  My gut feeling is that it is either a dip setting that hasn't been documented or one of the jumpers.  Check against a config that is know to work.  Jumper JP6  on the 3 pin jumper put it toward jp5  Jp3 and JP4 have nothing.  On SW5 1 on all the rest off.  SW3 only 5 on, SW2 only 8 on SW1 1,2,7,8, on.

I played with some of the jumpers and still could not get the error in my upright.  Try this config and post back. 

Yea im starting to think maybe it is something with the dip switches since it was working fine until I changed a few dip switches but i thought i set them all back to what they where but I missed one or I moved one and didn't catch it. Ill check them all again.

Make sure you perform a ram clear after any dip switch change.

Jbshocks, is it possible to trace the cashbox switch connector to the board and see which pins it lands on?

ECN1 A12 

That was it I reset all the dip switches and now it works fine. Looks like some how I reversed all the switches on SW5 so now it works fine. Not really sure how I missed that when went back and checked them all before.  Thanks again for the help now I can get back to the pull handle.... :3-

was it only sw5 that you had to update?  I am very curious where this slant top dip switch may be.  I was thinking maybe SW5 dip 3 but I tried moving around the SW5 dips and could get a 97 but not a 53.

I had 1 off and all others on

I was trying to duplicate the 53 error last night. Couldn't do it!  :37-
On uprights the ECN1 A12 pin goes to a 3-pin connector (CN18) on the backplane. Only two pins are used, one ground and the other 5Vdc. With each upright Universal supplied a connector plugged into CN18 with two wires about 3' long, wrapped in a rubberband, with connectors to hook up to a cherry switch. So even with the upright they gave the option to set an alarm on the slot stand's cashbox. The question is; how is it activated/deactivated?? Like jbshocks did, I opened and closed this circuit with no results. No dip settings are listed for activating the cashbox switch.
I'll try messing with SW5's dips and see what happens.

wadwerks were your jumpers in the position I listed?   Uniman do you know what the jumpers are used for?

I found JP6 but its a 2 pin and it does have a jumper on it JP3 and JP4 have nothing but I cant find JP5 anywhere on the board.

is your board a 94014-main3 or 4?

main 4

I just checked and JP5 only exists on main 3 not on main 4.  I am very puzzled by this 53.

Once I get the handle working I think I will mess with getting that code to come back if it will recognize another cherry switch I might be able to use that for something. I started a new thread on my handle prob do you have any ideas on that you guys have been amazing so far and Ive almost got it all working now.