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i cant figure out how to bipass coin cmparator? :103- :103- i need step by step directions!!!!! i unpacked my machine but the coin comparator wasnt installed so im getting coin jam error..... i have no clue how to install a coin comparater.......my other s2k is coinless so there has to be a simple way to bipass it like my other one......besides this issue machine looks nice i have to install the left speaker and towerlight thats the easy stuff i think lol......

Staz  I think all you need is a jumper plug in the harness as in the pic. none of my games use coins and all have this jumper plug

Another thing to try WITH POWER OFF, is to reseat the I/O cards. Then you may be able to clear the error and be up and running.

CH :95-

tried the io cards ......does anyone have a jumper plug???? where does it plug in??

Staz,

Look at my modified picture from plunger boy. Zoom in and you will see the jumper in place where I put a red box around it with an arrow pointing to it.

CaptainHappy :95-

After looking at my machine to provide an accurate answer.
I had to double check the following things:
   1 My optics are not connected and no jumper installed on the Molex connector in the door harness.
   2 in Key Config II: Coinless is Enabled

Machine does not look for coin in optics or hopper when in coinless mode.

It has nothing to do with his Door or Cabinet I/O boards

Staz needs to key chip the machine and go in to 7.2 Key Config II Coinless and enable it.

Foster,

I thought that I should point out that your statement above which I highlighted in RED is not always correct. And we have to think of others who read these posts later when trying to figure out a similar problem with their machines. We do not want to steer them away from a valid diagnostic check. Especially such an easy one, and especially on a machine that was recently in transit, carted up stairs, and moved around alot.

It is a valid thing to check when you get errors like coin in jam and ones like meter disconnected, etc. I (and other NLG members) have seen cabinet I/O's that were loose and ones that were bad cause these seemingly unrelated errors. It sounds like this might not be the case in Staz's situation, but unless he has checked the cabinet I/O with a known good one it can't be ruled out for sure.

Also I am assuming that whoever sold Staz the machine probably had it working before they shipped it... This of course depends on the vendor, and the type of sale it was. Cheap deals toughted as parts completed are different from shopped and fully functional with a warranty. I do not know who he bought from and on what terns. Maybe Staz should ask his vendor about he machine's status prior to shipment to confirm? Are you assuming that it was sent to him as a coinless machine, and that they sent it with Coinless DISABLED, or did Staz tell you that it was disabled??? It is nowhere in his posts. Regardless, Your statement that you placed in bold may not necessarily be right as I looked at a few of my S2000s and they have coinless Disabled, yet they do not have coin handling, and they are functioning fine with no errors at all. (They all do have a jumper plug as I pointed out in Plunger Boy's photo for Staz.)

Just want to keep all options open.

CaptainHappy :95-

 

CH
IF you have coinless disabled then you have to have the jumper or at least coin in optics connected because the machine is monitoring the coin in optic inputs.
If you have coinless enabled the jumper is not needed, because the machine is ignoring the coin in optic inputs.

That is why I said to key chip the machine to fix instead of buying or looking for a spare jumper. Takes 5 minutes to fix with a key chip, how long to find or buy and receive another jumper.
I guess he could take a couple of wires and install them into the proper 3 holes of the connector in the door harness using a jumper from his other machine as a guide if they have one, also about 5 minutes of work.

Since Staz didn't state that coinless is disabled but did state he was missing the coin handling components on the door, I used logic to deduce that Coinless is diabled in that machine.
The only reason he cant enable coinless mode if the game chips do not support it.

Foster,

We first need Staz to tell us if he actually has the jumper installed in his machine.... He asked about it since he did not know what it is, PB put a picture up for him to know what it was and I added an outline it in red since he did not catch it judging by his post.

He only said he does not have the coin comparitor, no mention of the jumper or any other coin handling on the door, so one can't assume anything until he posts back clear answers. Answering back won't take more than a few seconds!

CH :95-

His machine is physically configured for coinless.
No Coin Entry, which means no Comparator, optics or the like.
Since he tried the cards with no help I would have gather it is missing the jumper.since he asked about getting or making one..
We do not even know if the machine was shopped out or fully tested either.

okay lets start its not the vendors fault why im having this issue........i bought the machine at wholesale not  shopped out,,,, i told him to take thte the coin comparater out and put a cover on ir...... he did include the entire coin comparter in a bag...... the problem is i cant figure out how it gets installed in my machine cuz i never saw one in a s2k.....but if i go in config mode and enable coinless that will  solve my issue?? what chip do i need all i have is a 42 config chip that i use on my wof........would that chip work?

heres a pic of my board would that tell what config chip to use and what kind of board is it?

Staz, if you need one of those molex jumpers, let me know I will send it to for free, I have a couple extra ones.

thanx but would that jumper work on this type of comparater i have 3 wires that connect to it

Staz,

First I was not saying anything bad about your vendor, nor blaming them... Just pointing out that sales vary from wholesale as is, to fully shopped and pretty. I just thought that they would be a good source for a simple question about how it was configured when it left them. Buying whosesale as you mentioned answers that question.

Look at what I modded on your picture... I do not think that you are looking at the right wires. compare your picture with plunger boy's and ZOOM in... In your picture it looks to me that the wire bundle that we all are talking about is tucked behind the metal plate pictured to the right of the comparitor bracket, which by the way is mounted for storage and not in the proper position if you decide you want coin handling. That wire is part of the S2000 Wire Harness, so it has nothing to do with what brand of comparitor is in your machine. It would be nice to know if it has a jumper plug at the end of it, but from what you said I would guess that it does not.

Good luck, I have to get some work done.

CaptainHappy :95-

A key 31 or key 45 should do you just fine
Staz since you have the comparator and the optics we can solve the issue if you dont have the right key chip.
In the picture of the comparator is a bracket with a board that has a black plastic cover that board is the coin in optics.
Just remove the comparator from the mount (it snaps out of the plastic clips on either side of it
take the 5 pin connector and plug it into the optics board. stash the assembly in the door and you should be all set until you find the jumper or use a key chip to enable coinless
the 5 pin is the top connector of the three in your picture.

The machine wont care if comparator is not installed.

Another option if you are game since you have the harness installed
you could put 2 jumpers in the optic connector as well
it would be very simple use very small wire gauge. 24-26 would be easy.
The optic connector is pointing towards the hinge side of the door.
with the red, 2 orange with stripes wires, emply pin, and black with red stripe
if you jumper the 2 oranges to the black with red tracer/stripe on it you will be bypassing the optics.
DO NOT Connect anything to the Red wire next to the orange wires.

He has the wrong version chip for what he's trying to do

well its been a long day on this machine..... if i new it was such a pain i would of never bought it.....well i installed the comparater thar cleared all errors i was all excited to play it and boom!!!! more issues the bill validater wont accept money...... it works but apparently the machine has a single denom version chip which is set to $500 so if you put a $100 bill in it..... it rejects it cuz the whole machine is on credits.....now if i put a multi denom version chip in it will i need to do a full cear??   heres the worst problem that pissed me off.... only 4 amounts light up on top out of 10...... could it be led panel or led controller board?? where do i find a board like this to replace?

Could be just burned out lamps?
Remember, the reason you got a "good deal" is because you bought it "as is" ?
Meaning, it came from the casino and you know how casino machines are!
They sometimes have faded strips, no sounds, and many burned out lights.
You bought an "un-shopped" machine.
That also means  YOU have to do the "SHOPPING"! :72-
Be prepared to spend even more money!  :56- :148-

Bunker, his backplane for the top box is s2000, so all led. He's got various spot that work and some that don't. Best case, he's got some chips burned out, worst case, he's got whole circuits on the backplane that have gone bad

its a led board..... there all sottered leds...... how can i test to see if its board or the leds?  where are the chips??????

There should be a light/lamps test in the menus for your SG chips?
Whatever they are?

Nice machine BTW!  :3-

Staz, those little soldered on LED lights are referred to as chip LED's. If you have a voltmeter you can check each side to ground when you know they should be lit. Should be probably 6v DC there to light them up

I would check the voltage across a LED when it is lit on that board. that way you can get the LED voltage drop aka as the operating voltage of the LED,
I would not assume that a LED mounted on any board operates on a voltage above 2.5 without checking it.
Even the LED's in the IGT toppers for S2000, I game, etc do not have 6V applied to them. There is a small resistor wired in each group of 2 LED's, so that the voltage is close to 2V per LED..

Staz, do both of those fans run when the game is on? If not, one possibility is IC failure due to overheating. My Money Mad Martians game will lose lighting after a few minutes and start acting funky if my cooling fan quits. When it used to anyway, I replaced the fan eventually. Any kind of 2+ voltage reading to ground I would think indicates a good circuit and bad LED chips. Having all the chips in several circuits go bad and none in other circuits isn't very promising though unless they're wired like xmas lights and one bad bulb takes the rest on that circuit out. Gonna be some extended work and learning in your future I think...

ialso noticed a coiple of fuses on the right of the board.....how can i tell if there bad?

I doubt they are blown, I dont have an Enhanced motherboard schematic to be 100 positive so the next statements and is only a educated guess
I suspect that the most if not all I/O devices would be off and maybe even the MPU:
VFD, player display, Bill Validator, Printer, back lit reel controller, etc would be off if the fuses are blown.

okay these 2 fuses are on the led board thar half the lighted amounts work..... im new with this electrical stuff do these fuses look bad?

Those fuses appear to be okay.
To check them for sure, all you need is a basic multimeter.
You set the multimeter for continuity and touch each leg of the fuse with the leads
and you should get a full continuity reading on your meter if the fuse is good!  :71-

That's what the guys are saying about checking the SMD LEDs - pretty muc the same way you check a regular bulb with a multimeter.

No, unfortunately those look good Staz. If it gets to be a real pain in the ass I may have some time in June that I could look at it if you can't find anyone closer and are willing to ship me the top box back plane and mpu.

finally got it goin such a simple fix board got loose on back led panel.....i wanna thank evryone for the help you guys are great!!!!!! :3- :3- :3-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qvBUFW_iX4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qvBUFW_iX4)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsjMxSwA-dg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsjMxSwA-dg)

Awesome machine staz!  Congrats!

Jason

now that the lights work i have another small issue.....im hereing buzzing sound out of both top speakers when the lights are on in the top box..... i guess from reading on here theres issues with noise and 501 boards....... would resisters take care of the problem?  and can someone make the harness with the resisters and connecters for the top speakers for me?i will gladly pay for it..... i cant even splice a wire without screwing it up lol

You're may be getting possible interference & induction from a power line crossing into a speaker line.
Resistors is just a guess on what you may need.
Not all quiet the buzzing the same as others.
A lot of that depends on too many variables.
Some machines need more resistance to "dim" the buzzing sounds to an acceptable level -
some need less.

Remember, you've taken the machine out of it's naturally noisy environment into your bedroom.
A drop of water in your bathroom sink is loud now versus a mom&pop wedding band playing at Foxwoods...  :72-
Believe me ...NO ONE complains about s2000 noisy speaker buzzes at the casino!

FYI when wires cross at close to 90 degrees crosstalk, noise or other interference is none to very minimal.
It is more likely created when they run parallel to each other.

Any piece of wire is an antenna at it resonant frequency, which is why Cat 4,5,6 cable is twisted so the frequency of any inferring signal has to be very high to be picked up by it.
Also Very High voltages increase the chance of being picked up, that is why no one wants to be near 100KV or higher power lines.

okay so in simple english what should i look for wires crosing the speaker wires?  now heres the wierd part the buzzing stops when i open the cabnet and the top led money lights turn off then i close the door and as soon as the lights go back on buzzing resumes....also when i turn volume up or down buzzing stays the same level...... will resisters fix the problem?? bunker your the harness pro can you make me some speaker wires with resisters and connectors.......

I do!  I always pull techs aside and ask them why the hell haven't those boards been replaced with 504B's or for the love of God at least had resistors put on the speaker wires. 

Jason

I know how the noise is getting into the speakers.
It is not from other wires being too close to the speakers or harness

 I think the noise is being introduced via the power wires going to the amp
A way to test this is to unplug the black plug at the Amp, play the game until you get the LED's to come on and see if you get the noise,
If you do it could be more complicated than just putting resisters in the harness.

i will def try that tomm and report back!!!

unplugged the amp and the noise stopped so i def need resisters......can anyone make me a set for my top speakers......

Actually I would recommend a 504B MPU

If that does not solve the problem then one of us on here can add some resistors to your harness.
you would be soundless until you got the harness back and installed it.