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I turned it on, the speakers popped 3 times, the lights flashed once and then I smelled smoke, so I turned it off.  I checked all the boards and wires and couldn't find the source of the smoke.  It's strongest on the MPU, so sadly, I think it might actually be the board.  I changed the fuses and turned it on again.  Same 3 pop sounds in speaker, lights, fan and BV comes on and cycles, but no monitor.  There is no residual smokey smell in the monitor ... only in the MPU.
 :98-
What happened?  What do I do?  It's my baby!!!  Please help!
 :37-

Normally, I'd suggest testing another MPU if you had one, but I always cringe at the thought of throwing another one in and something else frys the second one. 

Do you have any other hardware components that you can test with?

Jason

Thanks for the quick reply Jason.  Unfortunately, my only other machine is a PE+.  Again, following my nose only (no signs of anything burned), the smell is the strongest around the SENET eprom. 

Wow, I'm still in shock ... all I did was turn it on.

Take the MPU out of the machine.  Out of the machine can you smell a specific area on the board per your description?  Do you see any areas that appear to be burnt or damaged?  You might try taking a hi res photo of the board and upload it in this thread.  Some of the guys out here have eagle eyes and might be able to spot something.  Since you have lights, fan, etc, but no monitor, I'd suspect the MPU or a component on the MPU...especially if there is a smell on the MPU.  Video footage of your power up might help too.

Jason

 I would check your power supply its dual voltage it might be dead on 1 side only

I am so incredibly grateful for anything you can do ...  :131-

Video of startup ...

http://youtu.be/ZqonnaiGNJw (http://youtu.be/ZqonnaiGNJw)

How do I check the power supply?

Look at large blue cap thats missing its top plastic ? In the top pic lower right side . i would still check your power supply  its not uncommon  for it to run ether the 13v or the 25v  but not both if its crapped out

[EDIT] by the way, the blue cap was just torn.  The cap looks okay and the board around and under it look okay too.

There appear to be 2 power supplies. 

One has the main plug from the wall and 4 molex plugs.
1 4-pin molex goes up to the machine
1 4-pin molex is not used
1 2-pin molex is not used
1 4-pin molex goes to the other power supply

The other power supply is a perforated box for air flow.  It only has 2 molex.
1 goes to the other power supply
1 is about a 12-pin plug going to the machine

How would I got about testing it? Can I take the 4-pin molex and plug it into the other one?

If there was a smell, something has to be toasty somewhere.  You might inspect the plugs on the backplane to see if there are any dark spots.  I had an old CEI poker machine that had the same type of problem.  Fans and lights were all running fine.  Fuses all checked out and were replaced.  Monitor displayed nothing.  Ended up being a component level issue on the game board/MPU.

Maybe some of the guys that are handy with a multimeter can give some suggestions where to troubleshoot.

Jason

I'm about 90% certain a Game King and a S 2000 use the same power supply.  Take a look at this old thread.  http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=1988.msg14955#msg14955  There is only one power supply and it's the second one you talked about.

Look at the U71 chip.
It looks like it may have burned at the legs.

I'm no board repairman, but I agree, U71 looks to have two legs burnt.
Good eyes proten!  :209-

WOW!  What eyes!   :209- :131- :131- :131- :244-

I got my magnifying glass out and see that you're right, the legs do looked burned even though the bottom of the board doesn't.  I'm assuming there's code on that little chip as well?  Even if I can successfully remove the chip with my soldering pen and get a replacement chip from Jameco, how do I go about getting the code that was on it?  I have an eprom burner (GQ-4X).

Buzz - thanks for the link.  I'll also check my power supply just in case.

Not likely there's any "code" on that. It's a simple control IC. As long as the replacement is origional or a good cross you should be ok. I'd be for finding a diagram that shows the pin-outs to see if something external to the chip caused it to burn up or you'll go to a lot of trouble replacing it more than once. Those chips don't normally implode for no reason. Of course it may be something as simple as there was crap on the board that shorted it out too.

I hope replacing the chip solves your problem, but it could be something else that caused the problem, externally (off of the board) or on the board itself.
And/or it could have damaged more components on the board.
Let's hope the chip replacement solves the problem.

Thank you everyone!  I am reviewing the schematics now to see what leads to/from U71.  Plus, I'm reviewing the post on how to validate the power supply.  This is a great start for me and I will post back results.  THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!

U71 is a 74HC240N Inverting . Non-Inverting Octal Buffer and Line Driver with 3-STATE Outputs
The best way to test the power supply, is to check the voltages between the following wires

Red +13V (unless IGT did something weird)
Orange +25V
Black with red tracer Ground
Black with orange tracer Ground
Both of the grounds are tied to chassis ground when the Power Supply is installed.
The 25V can be found at the ballast inverters for the fluorescent lights if it is like the S2000
The 13V can be tested at the BV harness at the BV, be careful if you have the interior light. That light gets hot if the door is open for more than a minute.
The only 5V supply that the MPU uses is on it.
The 5V regulator is attached to the heat sink.

I can't seem to soften the solder around the U71 chip.  What the heck kind of solder is that?  :103-  How do I remove the chip?  Do I need to cut it out and solder the new one on top only? 

I'm way out of my league, aren't I?  I should just upgrade to a 3902 and move on, right?

Okay, I've exceeded the number of questions allowed in a single post.   :30-

:Dave

I've found lately that it helps tremendously to add a little new solder first then try to wick the old stuff off.

Clipping the leads from the IC is one way to remove the IC but I would only do so after getting a replacement and a 20 pin
IC socket to put the new IC into.

Go down to Radio Shack and buy some solder wick. What I find that works best is to add a bit of solder to each lead and
then use the solder wick to remove the solder. Be careful with excessive heat because you can lift traces.

If you want to cut the leads then do so and then with a pair of needle nose pliers, grip the remaining lead and heat
the solder from the bottom side of the board. You will probably still need to add a bit of solder around each hole after
the lead has been removed. Add that bit of solder, place the wick over the hole and you should get a nice clean opening.

The 74C240 is a non-inverting octal buffer with drivers. When looking for a replacement you can use either the MM74C240
or a MM54C240. The 54C device is likely to be ceramic rather than plastic. The 54C is the military version while the 74C
is a commercial version.

Thanks to both.  I am still struggling with removing the solder.  I did get the chip out and it was burnt.

I'm wondering ... will this board work as a replacement?  I currently have a 3802 board, chop top cabinet with the 31 games.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-I-GAME-BOARD-WITH-TRAY-91661107-/350531578336?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519d4f69e0#ht_1558wt_1038 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-I-GAME-BOARD-WITH-TRAY-91661107-/350531578336?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519d4f69e0#ht_1558wt_1038)

Thanks!

It will work, but for that price you'd be better off getting a 3902 board.   Then you can upgrade to simm based poker or I-games too if you choose to.  Check the classifieds, I think someone here was just selling 3902 boards w/sound card for $150.00 or so.

Before I say anything let me say that I am no expert.
The board on Ebay is being sold AS-IS so at $140 including shipping it is a bit of a risk. I also noticed that the board on Ebay
does not have P-2, the long plug in that is just to the left of U-70. I don't know the purpose of that connector. I would wait
for someone smarter than I am to give you any advice.

If you're set on getting a replacement board I'd post a wanted to buy here on the site and give our member dealers a chance to help you. We've got a lot of good people here. Kinda crappy in any case to ask for their help fixing it and then not give them a chance to sell you a part. Just my opinion...

Dave  threre isn't a thing I know of that a 3802 board will do that a 3902 won't do. BUT a 3902 will do a lot the 3802 won't do. 

 :172-

Just an offer to you...If you send me the board and chip I will change it out for you for free. You just pay postage. Ask around I have helpped many here with board repairs and replacing chips that are difficult to replace. Even one Ford blew apart !!!

Wow, I am completely and totally humbled by all of you.
 :131- :131- :131- :131- :131-

If I decide to upgrade, I will DEFINITELY look to the folks right here.   :89-  It doesn't even make sense to go to feebay when all the "good stuff" is right here.   :89-

Ugh, don't buy from Worldwide Gaming unless it's a last resort or a steal of a deal.  Neither of those conditions apply to your situation and that auction.   :60-

Many, many thanks to CoorsLight115 who repaired the board for me. :131- :244- :88- :259-

Please see my homage to Tim at ... http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=18919.0