Title: How to decipher coils and solenoids Post by: OldReno on June 24, 2012, 10:21:45 PM How to decipher coils and solenoids
There are (hopefully) some numbers printed on the paper wrapping of your coils and solenoids. For example a B25 925 coil means the following: B (I believe) is the body style. (perhaps someone who knows can tell us....) The first number, is the guage of the wire of the coil. The 25 (above) tells us that Bally used a 25 guage wire. The second number is the number of wraps or turns on the core of the coil. Therefore, a B25-925 is a coil using 25 guage wire, with 925 wraps. I cannot tell you the ohmage of each of these coils, but perhaps this might be a good project if anyone has the energy to ohm out the coils on their machines to contribute to a data-base which we may use as a reference. Or not..... I'd sure like to see one on here somewhere's for all those coils and solenoids. Thanks, OldReno Title: Re: How to decipher coils and solenoids Post by: carbyjr on June 25, 2012, 10:59:04 AM Everything you need to know is here I think.
If you are looking for a coil let me know I might have one http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html (http://www.pinballmedic.net/coil_chart.html) Title: Re: How to decipher coils and solenoids Post by: OldReno on June 25, 2012, 02:48:53 PM @carby -- thanks for the excellent link!!!
Quite a good read, very informative. Title: Re: How to decipher coils and solenoids Post by: drgo on August 17, 2012, 02:31:07 PM I have opened a topic on it already, in which i describe my problem- the coin divertor coil burned out- does that mean, if the coil says- FC33 2600 that i have to use 33 gauge wire and make 260 turns of it on the coil? I suppose so after what i read, but a confirmation would be very helpfull and appreciated!
Title: Re: How to decipher coils and solenoids Post by: OldReno on August 20, 2012, 03:01:57 AM I'm thinking 2600 turns, but check Carby's link above and you may find one there. Or from one of our fine suppliers. I'd rather do that than count 2600 turns (but as a last resort I might try that...)
Often, if you are lucky, the burned end can be unwrapped one turn and re-soldered to the terminal. Just scrape off the plastic coating and solder it if it's not too far gone. |