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I just picked up and brought home a 1980 Gottlieb Roller Disco Pinball machine that has board problems.. The seller said they were playing the machine for about 20 minutes then a resistor on the solenoid driver board blew  :98- and before they could power it off it smoked a chip on the CPU.. I was wondering where to start trouble shooting this machine, or wheres the best place to find replacement boards and other pinball parts.. I've attached a few pics of the machine.. I'd have to give this machine an 8 out of 10, its playing fields in very good condition, the back glass is almost perfect, just a few cabinet issues that are minor like the black paint around the back glass is showing it's age and an easy fix..

Thanks Gary

a couple more pics

If your not into trying to repair it yourself, the best bet is to purchase this aftermarket MPU board...

http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=454 (http://mad-amusements.com/product.php?id_product=454)

If you want to troubleshoot it, here is another great link...

http://tuukan.fliput.net/sys1_en.html (http://tuukan.fliput.net/sys1_en.html)

Hope this helps...
Jimmy

I would say go with the complete replacement shown above.  I checked 2 other reputable stores for that board but MAD was the cheapest by $10--you may want to look at shipping costs though.  I put a similar board in my 1980 Space Invaders to replace a battery acid damaged one and it is 1/2 the size, eliminates the battery trouble in the future and provides for easier testing and adjustments.  Good luck and congrats on a nice looking machine!

Links to Marco and Bay Area. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/NIWUMPF (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/NIWUMPF)  http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PC-WUMPF (http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PC-WUMPF)

Thanks for the help so far.. I have circled the resistor on the drive board and chip on the CPU that smoked.. The other think I did notice is that the plug number A1-J5 on the bottom of the CPU doesnt' seem to be seated completely? Make me wonder if that plugs got an issue? I'll have to look it over closer tomorrow.. I was told buy the seller that he replaced the CPU battery with a cap, seen in the pic and there is also a jumper on a trace just below where the battery was. Thanks for the links to the replacement parts..

Gary

The thing to keep in mind here is that resistors don't just burn up, something else went bad and caused it to burn up. That being said, whether you choose to repair or replace needs to be secondary to figuring out what went bad first to cause the problem or your first repair will probably just be good practice for the second

Just a quick note... I pulled and inspected the cable connecting the CPU from A1-J5 to the driver board. I found a piece of an old molex connector that had broken off and was side ways in the plug. There was no signs of arching but still could have caused a short. It was touching 2 of the connections on the right side of the plug. There were no broken or damaged molex connectors in the plug, so I'm guessing it was from a previous repair.. I removed the CPU to inspect the connection were the plugs go and found a bunch of repairs, and a lifted pad connection for a plug. It looks like most of the edge connection have had someone flow solder on them? Plus there are many repair done to the back side of this CPU.. So I just decided to bit the bullet and ordered a new replacement CPU and Driver board for this machine instead of trying to repair these.. I expect them later in the week from Mad Amusement.. I have a new question for you Pinball people, I have a very nice replacement backglass in the machine that the seller bought the replace the one that was flaking. I don't want the same to happen to this one, so do I convert the backglass bulbs to LEDS? Wheres a good place to buy them? I'd also like to convert the bulbs on the playing field too..

Thanks again..  Gary

As I understand, heat is the major killer of the backglasses and causes them to flake.  With this is mind, I highly recommend switching to LED's.  Above that, LED's use about 90% less power too so they are easier on your old power supply and wires.  They also are said to last 60 times longer.  Finally there are a ton of options for colors, brightness, and even flexible ones you can aim!  There is more than one shade of white out there too so you need to decide which shade you like the best for your playfield.  See pic.


I have found 2 places that seem to sell the best lights/have the cheapest prices/and back their product.  Unfortunately the first https://www.pinballlife.com/ (https://www.pinballlife.com/) has closed their site for a couple of weeks for the 4th of July holiday.  If you can wait, they are the cheapest prices.  I also use http://shop.cointaker.com/main.sc (http://shop.cointaker.com/main.sc).  They are a little more expensive, but if you use the promo code "PINSIDE", that will get you 10% off!  As I said, there are tons of options for LED's.  I happen to like the "retro" 2 LED ones.  They look the most like the old 44 & 47 bulbs, give off similar colored light (warm white), but are brighter.  I also love the "Flex" ones that you can aim where you want.  I have retrofitted all 3 of my 80's pinballs (including a widebody like yours) with LED's so I have tried pretty much every bulb there is.  Cointaker also sells Slotmachine button bulbs which may be of interest to others on the board.

If you want to see any pics of my lights and how they look on a playfield or have any other questions, let me know.  Good luck!  Steve

On the subject of using LEDs, keep in mind that for general lighting they can work fine. But for switched lighting, they "can" be problematic. The switched lighting is generally strobed. With incandescent lamps, the bulb will keep glowing during the brief time that the signal strobes off and you don't notice it. However with LEDs, this can create a visible flicker.

Also, just like with slot machines, it takes years of being on 24/7 for the heat to affect the glass. For home use, unless the machine is left on 24/7 I doubt the new glass will start to flake any time soon.

If LEDs work, great. But if they don't I would not worry about it too much.

I agree on the LED problem.  I believe the phenomenon is called "ghosting" where the light stays on barely in between switches.  They have addressed that recently and now make non-ghosting LED's that solved that problem (although I havent seen the need to pay the extra money for them on my games).  In my experience though, the LED's turn on and off so much faster than old 44's & 47's that you actually get a true "blink" which is nice to see where it is supposed to happen.  Especially makes a huge difference in inserts within the playfield that blink in series during attract mode or during a game.

I also agree it would take a long time for a new backglass to flake due to the heat.  But I would rather not take the chance though as my backglass is original and 32 years old.  I still think the best case for the LED's is less power draw on the transformer and wiring and you may even save a little $$ in the longrun too!

Well I ordered a new CPU, Driver Board, and Power Supply for this machine from Mad Amusment. They are installed and the games back playing. Now I have a new question.. I have one display thats looks to be on its way out, not as bright as the others. I have found 2 different displays for sale on EBay, one is the exact one as in my machine, but the seller wants crazy money for shipping $15.00  :60-  The other looks to be a different version, two dollars more but free shipping, the last 3 parts numbers are 011 instead of the 001 on mine. Can anyone here tell me if 011 partis a compatable parts for my machine?

Heres the one I have in my pinball machine,    http://www.ebay.com/itm/300667898261?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Will this one work in my machine too??     http://www.ebay.com/itm/170341613318?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Now just need to clean the playing field and order a new set of rubber bumpers.. Heres a pic of the new boards installed..

Thanks Gary

here is some info I came across...I have not tried it...


"Zap Gottlieb Displays back to life!
Many times Gottlieb "Blue" displays will get dim! On schematic find which pins of the glass tube provide filiment voltage! Look it up every time! There were several suppliers of these tubes! It will say "4.2 VAC" (Less on small displays) Do not confuse with offset voltage that is D.C.! Get 2 jump wires! Remove display from game! Take coin chute lights voltage 6.3 VAC on front door and jump to filament voltage on tube! Turn game on! Wait about 5 minutes for crud to be burned off filiment! Reinstall in game!"

and this link...

http://www.bostonpinballcompany.com/displays-info.htm (http://www.bostonpinballcompany.com/displays-info.htm)

I wouldn,t pay $29 bucks for a untested display most the time if you have it sitting out of game it was bad i got a box full of them but can,t find them right now we are moving , we did part out a lot of those early gott pins they were  a big pia to keep working if i find mine they will be 10 bucks plus shipping , but i too have no way of testing them
steve
buybest@aol.com

Thanks for the offer, I'm in no big hurry so I'll gladly wait to see what you have. Do you know if that other display is comparable in the early series 1 Gottliebs pinballs??

we used any 6 did gott display  i think any would work  as long as its good