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Just aquired a DD Deluxe.... this is my first s+ machine. It has no digital display.. I noticed it has a new cable running from power supply to mpu. I unplugged cable and reels free up, plug it back in and they stiffien up as per other forums I have read. checked all cable and connections and all seems well... any ideas???

Congratulations on your S Plus.
Lift out the coin tray and you will see three fuse holders on the right side of the cabinet.
Check the middle fuse marked 8 VAC.
Also be sure that your MPU board is seated correctly.
Make sure that the power is OFF before you do this.

 :211-

Be sure to check the fuse caps too. Easy way is to swap them around and see if the problem changes. Also tell us what lamps ARE lit.

poppo  One time I removed the mother board on a S+ 5 reel, when I reinstalled it I got two molex plugs switched and couldn't get the display to work.  Jim is the one that told me about the two molex that can be switched. Dave did say it has a new power harness.  :103- :103-

Yes... it does have new harnes... pulled both sections of mpu out just to check to see if there was any obvious burt marks in it.. There is none.. As stated before, the reels do stiffen up with molex connector plugged in and free spin with it un-plugged..I talked to previous ower and he stated it did work before he moved it from his sons house but would fault out after just a few spins. I'm at absolute loss with this..... :103- Battery is @ 3.8 volts and all flourecent lights work. Will not accept coins and still no LED display..... Sure hope I'm not the only guy on the planet that's had this trouble... :25-.. Thanks for all those that try to help in advance

Is your denomination light lit or any of the buttons, etc? In other words, is anything else lit besides the fluorescents? Does the candle flash when the door is opened? Did you check the fuses and fuse holders? Is the MPU seated all of the way? Check for bent pins on the bottom of the MPU.

Denomination light is on..all others are off..and I just noticed if you leave power off for extended time and power back on, 1 digit in the winner paid will light for a brief moment and then go out and then flash again when you power off the machine... then it will not repeat this untill you leave power off again for extended period...candle does not light when door is open.. and yes I have had mpu out checked all pins and sockets and all eproms for bent prongs...also I swapped denomination and insert coin light bulbs to make sure insert coin bulb wasn't just burnt out.. it also works when placed in denomination socket.... :103- A Also I have not red led light on my coin comparitor..... It's seems to me to be a power distribution problem but cant seem to narrow it down or really know where to start testing..

If you have not done so already, I would re-seat all of the connectors above the MPU and on the motherboard. Also the ones that plug into the LED display on the door. Also, on the MPU, there is a molex from the small transformer that goes to the MPU. Make sure it is not offset by a pin. I've done that accidentally and the machine will be mostly dead.

Checked everything that you fellas said to check and then some..... Seems I basically have no power to the door at all... no candle and the call light button does not light when pushed.. no led light on coin comparitor and no lights on buttons...no led display at all, the only light I do have is the denomination light. This is confusing to me as I said before, reels to stiffen up on power up and free up when I unplug molex connector on mpu..... When you pick yourselves up off the floor from laughing at how stupid I am....your input would be greatly appreciated.... thank God for the s2000 and all of you of course....

Buzz,
I was reading this thread for the first time and thought about those connectors also.
I had the same problem where they were in the wrong spot on the motherboard. As I remember they are the group with like 5 brown wires on the black connector. Everwhere else in the machine you can not get connectors mixed up. Either the number of pins is differant or the wire is too short to reach another spot.
However those two on the motherboard got me one time. If it wasn't for me having another machine to compair to I might have parted out the machine.

Robert  All you can do is tell a guy about them, if he doesn't want to try switching them that's up to him.

Pictures would also help as asked for earlier.

One more thing to check is pull the MPU out and then remove the motherboard (the board the MPU plugs into). Check under it for loose coins and make sure there are no burned traces. It happens.

You know the old saying Buzz, you can lead a hooker to the bar but you can't make her drink the cheap stuff...
Or something to that effect...

here's some pics fellas sorry, dead battery in camera

more pics

Can you pull the MPU out and take a picture of the component side?

I will attempt to answer some of his questions...>>>


If you can...use a multimeter and check the 2 candle lamps for continuity to make sure they are okay.
The "call button" lamp will not light on an S+ unless you rig it to.


This CC LED lamp ( sometimes they're green as well...color doesn't matter...)  only comes on
when the machine door is closed and the door optics are fully functioning.


There are two black Molex connectors that attach from the door harness into the reel glass display panel.
I'm doing this by memory...>>> the Molex with the blue wires plug into the display near the CC ( used primarily for the Denom lamp.) while the other Molex plugs into the display nearest the door hinge.
There is yet another small Molex on the door harness near the door hinge but that one is generally
for multiple line games to light up 3 or 5 coin light shadow boxes.
You see this shadow boxes especially for 5 coin bet game reel glasses on the left-hand side -
each shadow box lights up depending on how many credits you'd bet.
Normally this Molex is tucked into the harness and is kind of short and is usually a 6-pin Molex.

The Molex you plugged into the reel glass display...how many pins does it have?
It would be used for the power for the "windows" on the reel glass display.

If anyone is near an S+ - please correct me in the two reel glass Molexes please?
Especially on how many pins each Molex should have?
Thanks...I'm nowhere near an S+ at this time to verify.

I strongly agree with Poppo in that you should check the motherboard's traces and loose coins.
This is the circuit board that is on the floor of your machine.
It is used primarily for routing power and signals in and out of your machine.
The MPU (The circuit board that has the battery and big black knob) is  the main circuit board that houses the game and reel chips.

If you have more questions...please feel free to post anything that you might have
and we will try our best to help you out.
We really want to help you get your machine up and running the way you want it!!!  :89-

Last thing...I can see in your photos of your motherboard power Molex (the white one that goes to the motherboard from the power supply) that you've been squeezing and pulling it up by grasping the white wires only.
This is an extremely bad habit.
You should always try to grasp the Molex housing - rather than the wires.
It's very easy to ruin the female receptor pins that way.
Plus...you can easily very slightly pull out one the wires slightly out just enough to cause an intermittently working ground.
It is now essential that you turn off the power switch and firmly push each on of those wires back fully into that white Molex housing to rule out any possibility of the problem being with that power connection points.
They are critical to the proper functioning of ALL of the components in your machine.

I want to see the MPU (chip side) because I would not be surprised if it has no game or reel chip, which would effectively render the machine "dead". The reels would still be stiff because the stepper drivers would have power.

 :72- NO chips?!?!? THAT would be outrageous!!

I would be furious with the seller!  :81-

But you're right on Poppo!  :89-
It could very well be the problem!

I am wondering if that custom new power supply harness is wired correctly?  :103-
With all of the wires being white, I can see how a mistake might happen when wiring.

Please take a look at my attached document for the proper wiring of that power harness, then make sure each wire is connected between the two plugs correctly.
 

I was wondering about that too. I guess I was under the assumption that the machine worked at some point with it. But I think we all know by now not to assume anything.

Here's pics of board and back of display.. I have had both boards out and traced all with magnifying glass .. It seems to look ok.. This machine did work before it was moved but would fault after a few spins.. I'm not hurt with this machine as I took it in as a trade in on a Sigma 32B that I had and cash to boot......Just thought it would be a great addition to my double diamond run and triple double diamond deluxe with cheese...

What do you mean by "Fault"?  Was there an error code that showed up, or did the machine just loose power as in it's current state?
Did this happen more than once? If so, how did you restore normal operations before?

Do you know why the original power harness was replaced?

That white molex was probably replaced because it was burnt, but did anyone clean up the pins? If they are corroded or whatever, a new plug can still have issues.

Can you get any activity out of it by wiggling and jiggling any of the cables? Are you sure that the fuse holder caps are good? Did you try swapping them around?

Who ever replaced the harness left the old one in there, I have it and it is not burnt so I was curious why it was replaced also. I plugged the old one back in and have the same results.. The previous owner said that before he moved it from his sons home to his that it would work but would only spiin a couple times before needing a key reset.. I did not get to see it in this condition only after it had been moved. all voltages seem to check out coming from power supply. Do you think it would be a waste of $$ if I just buy a couple boards and replace them as part of an elimination process? As of right now I'm about 125.00 ahead on this machine, as I only had 75.00 in the sigma that I took this machine in on a trade in for..

It is never a bad idea to have spare parts.  I would recommend that you have at least a spare MPU board on hand.  After you get your machine up and running, you may also want to consider purchasing a Set and Clear chip for your S Plus as well.
The Set chip will allow you to activate your bill validator and set the machines denomination after changing the game EPROM. The Clear chip is used to clear all of the machines previous accounting records and reset the machines settings back to factory defaults.

Since the Old harness was not burnt, I would guess that perhaps the previous owner replaced it in an attempt to correct the original problem of requiring a reset after a few spins.
I would also keep the ORIGINAL harness in place, unless you can be absolutely sure that the new harness is wired correctly.  My fear would be that IF the new harness was wired wrong, it may have caused additional damage to the MPU board.
If you get a good MPU board, you would not want to have the wrong power harness in place.   

One more thing to check ... I cannot make out in your picture what PROM's you have.  Your SP-xxxx PROM Should be in the GAME PROM socket and the SS-xxxx PROM should be in the REEL PROM socket.
Also both should have the notch facing down towards the motherboard edge connectors.