New Life Games Tech Forums

Hi there.

I was just wondering in general how difficult it is to repair a S-plus slot machine. I have a degree in computers and electronics, I know how to solder, test voltages , etc. and so my uncle asked me to help him with his machine.

My cousin unplugged the machine before they left for vacation and it hasn't been working since. I believe my uncle spoke with someone who stated the battery now had to be changed out and that seems to be simple enough from what I have read. What I am unsure about is that if I have to use a chip after I install the battery and then which one. I read in another thread that I should not use a clear chip but am unsure of the other choices.

Any help would be wonderful. This is my favorite uncle and I would love to get his machine up and running again. Thanks! :)

Welcome to NLG AllyRaisin.  :88-

Replacing the CMOS battery in an S Plus machine is very easy with basic soldering skills.  You will not need any additional set chips due to a dead battery. 
If you see an 12 code on the LED display, you will know that the CMOS battery on the MPU board is in need of replacement.

Here is a link that may be helpful in locating the battery ...

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=18671.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=18671.0)

Let us know how you make out.

AllyRaisin  :238-

Before you start on the battery change please why don't we trouble shoot your Uncle's machine. A couple of pictures of the machine one with the door closed and one with it open will help a lot. And please tell us what it's doing or not doing. One of our S+ experts will jump in here and get it going for you. ( I'm not one of them )

By unplugging the machine your Cousin did the right thing, machine plugged in / lightling strike /  :98-   ( machine does not charge the battery, and unplugging does not draw from the battery )

Hi there! I'm back!! Thanks so much for all the advice! :)

I was able to change out the old battery with a new one successfully. The problem now is that the machine is showing a "61" error code.

I read in the forum (and tried this) to hold the reset switch till 61_1 comes up and the machine dings. I turned the key and it reset back to "61".

I read that I shouldn't get a clear chip so where to I go from here? Is there a different chip I should get?

I would upload a picture but my uncle was uncomfortable with that. But it's a red, white and blue? Machine.

Any advice would be wonderful. I'm trying to read everything you guys put up on the forum but there's a lot of information. :)

when you get the 61-1 close the door before you turn the reset switch. Any set or clear is going to produce the 61 code. You have to master this procedure before you can procede.

I use to have a favorite Uncle, his name was SAM,  OL Uncle SAM, few years back they changed his name to Uncle Leeroy things are just not the same anymore !!   :79- :79- :79-

 AllyRaisin  Sounds like you did everything like the text books says. Well you did miss one small step, when you see 61-1  close the main door and then turn the key.

Oops! My bad. I did close the door completely and turn the key. I was at my uncle's typing that on my phone and I cut a corner. I held the reset button, machine dinged and 61-1 came up. I shut the door completely and turned the key. It just looped back to 61.

Sorry about not being entirely clear. :)

I had this issue yesterday and turns out the bill validator door switch was not activating so it put me in a loop with 61 and 61_1.  I tied the two wires from the bill validator switch together, went thru the process and my machine is working flawlessly.  The switch was still in the correct place behind the door for the cash can but the little arm and roller had broken off. 

-Mike

Mike-  In the thread you previously posted in, you said that your machine had the symptom that it was stuck on 61-1 (which would make sense with an open door, or broken cash can switch).

The "61 loop" issue has been a fairly common one that we've run across after battery changes, and the difference is that once you get to 61-1, it "loops" back to 61 after a pregnant pause.  With that, it seems that you need a clear chip to get past it.

It couldn't hurt to check the cash can switch, but I'd say that it's a good chance that a clear chip is needed here.

You can purchase a clear chip from many of the vendors who frequent the site.  The easiest way is to post a "WTB" (Want To Buy) post in the classifieds section of the site (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?board=112.0).

If your machine has a bill validator, you'll also want a SET chip, which is needed to reactivate the validator after a clear.  The set of both chips shouldn't cost more than about $20 total.

Hi Mike. Thanks! I'll take a look at it this weekend and see if that works. :D

Hi knagl.

I thought I may need a clear chip but a lot of the people on the forum said not to use it unless it was a last result. I wanted to check before I decided there was nothing else to try. Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. :D

I'm still going to ask though... Is there anything else that I should look into or try that anyone can think of?

I'm currently out of the job but I have a degree in electronics and biomedical engineering (medical equipment) so I'm not a complete newbie. :) Just with slot machines. This is my project to pass the time. I just fixed a tv today with zero previous knowledge so anything you guys can think of I'll try.

The clear chip is a "last resort" option on the S+, but this particular issue is indeed one of the rare times you need it. Use the search button at the top the page to search for "61 loop" for more discussion on the issue.

If you have a way to zero out the EEPROM on the motherboard (the fixed board in the machine that the removable MPU board plugs into), that would also work instead of using a clear chip.

So what exactly do I put I want to buy in the classifieds? Clear/set chip for igt s+?

Kevin  Tell me what he needs and I'll see if I have a extra set. 

I need a clear chip and a set chip.

That's like saying " I need a wrench "  What size do you need.  All BS aside pull your MPU and post the SS ( game ) and SS ( reel ) chip numbers.  those numbers will determin which clear and set chips you need.

Slight correction to Buzz's post above...>>>



The Game chip installed on your MPU board will have the first two letters marked as "SP" with some numbers after it.

The Reel chip will be marked as "SS" - also with some numbers after it.

Bunker I just drove 6300 miles in 8 days, you don't really expect me to get thing exactly right. ( SS / SP  hell I was close !! )     :279- :279- :279-

haha! That's okay Buzz!
We're only human!

Believe me...I've made tons of mistakes here on NLG!!!!  :97-

Okay. I can try and get to my uncles tomorrow and get that information.

Thanks!! :)

I don't think we even know what game is installed in uncles machine.

He said it's a RWB in Reply #3 but there's several brothers, sisters, and cousins in that family.  :200-

Classic......

a simple set15 and IVc123 will do all that he needs...Provide me with an address and I will send you a set free with instructions, refund postage if they fix your problem... :71-

Thanks Tim  I've gotta go trailer trucken tomorrow night and don't know when I'll be back.

Thank you so much for the chips. :)

I installed the lVc123 chip but it doesn't seem to be doing anything. The machine did something but it was so fast that I can't tell you what it was. And now nothing.

Could the battery be dead?

A dead battery will give an error code of 12 on the LED displays.  Did you have an error code showing?

Did you press the self test twitch after you put the clear chip in?  Make sure you've done all of this to clear the RAM:

- Remove the chip in the GAME PROM socket.

- Replace it with the IVC123 clear chip.  Make sure that the notch in the chip matches the notch in the socket (look at the other chips on the board if you need help).  That is, the notched end of the chip goes towards the notched end of the socket.  Ensure that all the pins are seated correctly in the socket.

- Turn on the machine.  Wait a few seconds.

- Press and release the white Self Test switch next to the power switch.  The displays should count up to 999 a couple of times.  Once all the counting is done and there is no more movement of numbers on the displays, turn the power off.

- Remove the IVC123 chip and replace it with your original GAME chip.

- Turn the machine on and follow the instructions for the 61 error you will likely have (instructions here (http://www.newlifegames.net/igterrors)).

That's just it. Nothing is showing now. I didn't turn the machine on before I took the board out. My uncle unplugged the machine I believe, it was unplugged when I took the board out. I removed the game chip in the game prom socket. I placed the IVC123 chip in the socket. I have a degree in electronics and did a lot of projects with chips so I know it was in the socket correctly. Placed the board in the machine. Plugged it in and turned it on. I waited for a bit and pressed the white test switch and something happened for a second. I didn't see the displays and my cousin couldn't tell me what he saw. I turned the machine off and unplugged it. Replaced the clear chip with the game chip and nothing. The machine literally does nothing. We plugged it in and turned it on and it did nothing.

There is no error code because there are no lights turning on or anything.

All dead as if it is un-plugged dead? or are any lights coming on like the belly glass and reel glass tubes? If completely dead check the power cord at both ends for fit and damage, check the fuses lower right and power connection to motherboard center of floor behind hopper. and plug something else into the wall outlet to check it..

Yes. Dead as in unplugged dead. There was the flash of something on the display and then nothing after I hit the white test switch. No lights anywhere.

I'll check all of that. Thanks. My uncle is ready to toss the machine into his fire pit but I really want to get it working now!

Also pull the MPU back out and look at the two large card edge connectors that seat into the mother board for any bent pins, happens

I am leaning towards fuse, power cord or house outlet

Do you have a multi-meter or access to one ?

Completely dead is not a chip or program level event. more like power supply, fuse, power cable, on/off switch, house outlet ...need to check some basic things first then to the multi-meter to continue

Yeah, I have a multimeter and my uncle is an electrician so I assume he has one as well. I'm heading over there tomorrow and will let you know what I find. If there is anything else I should check please let me know. :)

Thanks!!

check fuses and fuse caps with meter not eyes!!

let us know

Hey guys!! I finally got the machine up and running!! But it's not quite perfect yet.

- The bill acceptor isn't working.
- It won't store credit. It pays out immediately when you win.
- It isn't making any noise. When you win, no bells.

Any advice on how to fix these?

And thanks so much to everyone!! You guys have been a great help!!

First go to this page and tell us what SP chip you have. We can answer #2 & #3 then.
http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/SPSS.htm)

Since you used a clear chip, you will need to use a set chip to enable the BV.
http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/spset/dbv.htm)

I concur with the above post.

Reel Sounds, Win noises are features - not broken.
Bill Validator requires activation via set chip.

You need to clarify the information asked.

Are you getting ANY sounds (coin-in or the like) ever?  If not, check the volume knob which is located on the outside edge of the silver tray that holds the MPU board.  Turn it back and forth a number of times (it has a stop on both ends of quiet/off and loud), and then move it to the middle of the two stops.  You can adjust the level later once you start getting sounds.

One of the reasons I asked about the SP # was to see if it was a 10mhz or 16mhz MPU or she might be saying "What knob? :103-"

She, but that's a good point, Poppo.