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Here I am looking for help again. First on my IGT now on this old bally. Need help on 2 fronts. 1. What is this machine and 2 after identifying it does anyone know where I can get a full schematic? I have a few manuals with partial schematics but I need a full drawing as others have added a wire here and there.
It was working then one day it emptied the hopper on a single cherry. I removed the Hopper to check the fingers as I have seen them bridge two contacts. Seeing nothing that looked wrong I put
the hopper back in and it blew a fuse. I replaced the fuse and nothing happened. It's completely dead no lights no nothing. It does have 120v and I think 50v and 6v. I say I think because I'm not sure where I should measure it, I have them one place but not another, that's why I need a schematic so I Know where wires should go. Here's some pic to help with question No1._ :59-

Here are two more pics of my old Bally Hope someone can tell me the model. I Didn;t include the belly glass as it's been modified to match the stand.  :59-

Is there a ID plate on outside of the cabinet on the handle side? That would be where the model info should be. If not, then look on the hopper, inside the cabinet (right in front of the hopper), and the reel set (since you have it out), as we have seen many that have the model # there as well, a lot of the times hand written.

-Roslyn

Look back behind where the hopper plugs in and see if you have the red pilot neon light on.  that turns on when the hopper times out, and is an indication that the machine has turned itself off. (to prevent runaways).
If it's on, just push that little white button below it, and that will turn machine back on.

As CVSlots suggested on your other post, look at the tag on the right side below the handle.
It is a 3 coin multiplier fruit reel, other than that I have no clue.
Nice pics by the way....

809 to a 1090 bally

Id tag removed by an idiot (Me) years ago and now it's lost along with my memory of what it said.

The reset light is off but if tripped the light comes on so that says I have 120V I also measured it with a volt meter.
The reason I need a schematic is to trace the circuits as previous owners have added wires of different colors (like the 120v plug behind the reel mech) so I don't
know what goes where.

Are the circuits for the 800-1090 series the same?
Thanks for all the great help.
Jerry

Thanks for the help. I don't know if it's possible to merge the two post so please send your help to the post labled old Bally Em.

The tag was removed long ago. I had some dumb idea that without the tag it couldn't be pr oven that the machine wasn't at least
25yr old. That's the law in Michigan. To own a slot it has to be 25 yrs old or older. When I got the machine it was only in it's late teens or early 20's
Now the tags gone and so is my memory.

I'm just trying to get the model so I can hunt down a schematic.

Thanks again for your help an advise
Jerry

its from 60,s /maybe early 70,s in was a 5 coin  x now changed to 3x  pay most likely  809 bally

Some folks would probably disagree, but I find the Bally schematics all very similar to one another.
Make sure you keep a log of any wires that you remove, so that you can reassemble later if you have to.
Is that 120V plug behind the hopper an add/on?  If so, check that no wires behind it are touching to case.  I am always suspicious of those added plugs, and prefer to remove them.
See if you can get any voltage reading at your transformer.
try between the solid yellow (30) wire and the orange (70) wires for 50V, and then between the yellow and the solid blue (20) wire for 6V.  If you got it at transformer, then just trace it out as far as you can.
Check all your subunits, too, and use your nose to smell if there is anything burned.
Try and draw out any circuits that you decide to remove or change wires on, so you have a reference later. That's probably the most important advice I can give you.
Not a lot that can go wrong on a bally, the circuits are often very complicated, but not complex.  Hope that makes sense.
It's all basically switches and coils.
Keep us posted.

Thanks I had mostly settled on an 804 to 809 then I saw a 1090 (I think) that looked a lot like it an got more confused. Received some good tip from old Reno that I'm going to try. I'll post the results when I can.

No progress got side tracked with a pin ball problem but that's now outta the way so back to this old slot.  I did have a brain fart and remembered
that the I removed the tag because at the time it was less than 25yrs old (State requirement to own slot) thinking they could prove it without a tag..silly me.
Anyway I remember the tag said 1962 and it was 1980 so I removed it. Don't know if that solidifies the consensus of it being an 809 - 1090 or just makes thing more confused.
Jerry

809  changed to  a 1090  1090 was a hot game for a while, you can see where the took the wood off between 4/5 coins on top box

Steve, good call.  You're right that was once a 5 coiner.
Looks like they removed the other X-units, but I can't see that in the photo.

the ones we used to get in they would file off 3rd tooth on step up so it would n,t go past there , most the ones we bought we got out of reno in mid 80,s from a few closed casinos , we did biz with a rip off farther n son team from that area who beat me for alot of green

Did they also build Bertha's?
Yep that's how to make the odds unit into a 3 coiner.  Worked great, but I think you had to do a little re-work on some of the switches up there, shim them out as I recall, otherwise the insert coin light would not go out.
Too bad you got burned, hope that doesn't make you think unkindly of Reno....

yes their last name started with  O

Thanks for your help half the problems solved I had a bad power cable/plug. It read 120v but when it moved it went to zero. Fixed that and made it back to square one.
The original prob was emptying the hopper on any pay. I think I solved that also as the payour relay has a burnt point. In fact the actuating arm is burnt right off so it's made all the time.
Have any suggestions as to where I can purchase a rely or actuating arm?\
Thanks again for your help.
Jerry

 :279- Wow what a dummy I am. Relay was fine there were no wires attached to those contacts.

I did find my problem (I Think) wires are broken off the 24pin beau plug on the reel mech and would short
out. Now my problem is telling where they go on the plug. One is yellow with a black stripe, one is yellow with a brown? stripe and one is Brown.
Looking at the plug pins I can see where a wire was soldered but which wire goes where?
Any help with the plug layout would really be appreciated.
Old Reno got any ideas

Well found an Old Reno post that said the wires don't change color across a plug so I found the corresponding wires on the male side.
Except (there's always an exception) the yellow with brown stripe. Where there was a yellow brown striped wire on the male I had a match on the female.
I could not find any missing solder points so I figured what the heck yellow and brown is yellow and brown and spliced the open wire to the one already soldered
to the plug and I plugged the machine in.
Much to my supprise nothing went boom and most things seemed to work but not all. I'm now missing lights on the upper unit.
Well back to the drawing board and again any suggestions will be greatly appreciated

All this work because My wife likes the old bugger, machine that is. I much prefer to work on the newer machines..
Jerry

 :3-Update. After finding three broken wires, one the color didn't match because of someones previous work and dieing because one of the cables I made was defective (that took me a while to figure out because I never make mistakes LOL. I finally got back to square one hopper over run. If I ever get this thing going I'm gonna tell my wife to play the new ones and just look at this one.

The game number is usually stamped on the reel switch cards and the star wheels.

Thanks to all who helped especially Old Reno for tech support and Foxslotss for the schematic. I still don't know the exact model (I used an 809 schematic which was real close) but it's up and running. Wife's happy and now I can go back to working on modern IGT's