New Life Games Tech Forums

Howdy.  Anyone have any ideas that i can try to get past this 61-1 block?  
The machine I'm having trouble with is a 10 mhz. RWB, S-Plus, 25 cent, 3CM game.  I recently tried to set up tournament mode using a second main board and tourney. chips but could not get it going.  After messing w/it for 30 minutes or so I gave up and put the normal board back into the machine which has an SP872 chip and 7806 reel chip on it.  After powering it back on the BV wouldn'y work nor would it accept coins. I used the 015 setchip to activate the bv which seemed to go as normal.  
All appeared to go as it should using the set chip and then game chip going through to the 61 error code then pushing the button to get the 61-1 code, closed the and used the reset to clear the 61-1 code.  The 61-1 code won't clear...  I've verified that the reset key is working and the door optics are also working.  I've since gone back in and used the clear chip then the set chip sequence and the last time even pulled the rom chip and started the sequence all over again.  Each time ending with the same 61-1 code that won't clear.
I then decided to pull the game and reel chip and put them on the other main board (a known good board) only to get the exact same problem being unable to clear the 61-1 code......?
I don't know what else to try.  Any ideas on where I'm screwing up?

Thanks much...  DW      

I should add that at one session I didn't use the set chip after the clear chip but still ended up with the same 61-1 error that I can't clear.

When you say the 61_1 won't clear, does if never change or does 61 come back? How did you verify the reset key and door optics are working? Is another door open like the cash can door?

When using the clear, does it count up like it's supposed to?

No, the 61-1 stays at 61-1 and doesn't change at all.  It acts as though the reset just plain isn't working but it works fine. When turning the machine on and go directly to the reset it will advance as it should.  I also bypassed the switch and jumped it direct, no difference.  The door optics were working as normal just minutes prior to playing around w/the other board.  I also have a jumper that I made up some time in the past to bypass those optics completely so as to have a working machine with the door opened up.  I used that jumper just to be certain but made no difference.
Yes, the machine counted up as it shouldand the cash door is closed as normal.

Well, now I feel like an idiot...  When you asked... "Is another door open like the cash can door", I instinctively openend that door just to close it again tightly and in doing so I noticed the little arm that activates the switch was broken off and lying on the floor of the can. 
That's pretty weird and super coincidental that it happened at the time when I was trying to get the tournament mode going.  I had that door opened then to get a couple bills out of the can.  That's obviously when things went south on me.  I have it fixed now and everything works like it should!!

I appreciate your help!!  DW

Woohooo!!! Poppo saved the day!!!  :wa


Congrats on getting your game going again!

Glad it's working.  :3-  Usually best to permanently bypass those cash can door switches if it's for home use.

Thanks CV and poppo.  And, by-passing that switch is exactly what I did for the fix...  :89-

DW

Nice job.  :)

I have a machine doing exactly the same thing, any way to post a picture of the part that broke and were it came from so I can check mine :)

Open the cash can door. There may be a small microswitch there or two wires (probably green) that should be tied together.

 :211- :211- :211-

Here's a pic. of the micro-switch that was in mine.  It shows the area it was mounted (to the side of the box frame).  It was just a small micro switch mounted so that when the cash door was open, the arm on the switch would break continuity and when the door was closed, it closed the circuit allowing a complete circuit.  The arm just broke off of the one that was mounted in mine.  I just bypassed the switch using a jumper between the two wires that originaly hooked to the switch. so's to eliminate the switch altogether.

Yes, the switch may be on the door or the frame, but it should be obvious. If there is no switch, look for the two wires that should be tied together like posted above. Sometimes they are just taped and get pulled apart.

As popo mentions, it should be pretty easy to spot.  Here's a couple more pics. of the wires after the *bypass*.  The black covering is just a small chunk of heat shrink to keep it covered, insulated and together, so to speak.

DW

Holy Cow, you people are some amazing folks.  When I was cleaning out the inside earlier today I found that piece (the arm with roller) laying in the bottom on the cabinet.  Once I cut one of the ears off of the switch and pushed the two wires together my 61-1 error cleared and machine is running like a champ.  My BV is even working.  For those who don't know the whole story, bought this nickel machine from a individual who said it just stopped, it had a 12 showing so I went and had the battery swapped, since that time I could not get that error to clear.  The timing of this post on this topic was amazing, thanks to CVslots for calling my attention to the post.  And thank all you folks for your assistance.

-Mike

That's great, Mike.  That sounds like the way to buy one.  I'll bet the --problem--   :96-  that machine had helped you on the purchase price a bit! 

DW

I was able to purchase 3 - 3 nickel machines, 2 new stands and 2 almost new stools for 600 bucks :)  So I think I did pretty well.  I was looking for a S2000 machine but these will hold me for now.  My goal is to fix them up, enjoy playing them and still look for a S2000 machine.  I can't thank all of you for your help.  This is one great site and the people are wonderful.  I'll drive you all crazy with questions but thats how we all learn I guess.

Many Thanks,
Mike