New Life Games Tech Forums

Been reading 100's of posts here (very informative), but I still have a couple of questions.

How do I disassemble these buttons to get to the lights to replace them? I've tried pulling, twisting, etc. Just don't want to break anything.

I've read various posts about changing to LEDs and they linked to some lights, but none of them still seem to be current (either the link is dead or the specific model number is no longer current). I found these and would like to know if they would work? They would need to be for an I-Game upright. http://www.8linesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LED-white-square&Store_Code=8line

The white center should pull /snap out.
They can be tough to get out.

Is it okay to grab it with some needle nose pliers? Didn't seem to get anywhere doing it using my fingers.

I would avoid tools

they should just pull out with a straight downward pull, or a with a slight rocking motion inline with the switch body, or maybe gentle twist

what ever you do be careful and gentle, if you don't you risk breaking the black body of the button assembly
the lamp socket and switch will come out as one piece
try grabbing the end of the switch body since yours has a ground wire on the side  just about where I would grab the assembly in a S2000

I've found it much easier to pop the caps off on the outside with a small flat blade screwdriver and use a forceps to grab the bulb out. By the way, some newer  switches are twist locks, so you might try that too

Someone is trying to BS you, if your gentle it will never come apart.  Grab a handfull of White plastic and while pulling down move the lower part of the switch to one side then the other. it will pop loose. You may knock off some skin, but it will grow back and  soap and water will clean up the blood.  Welcome to Slot tech's R us.

Foster beware all Game King buttons were not created equal, I have some buttons that the light bulb fits into a removable socket much like the reel glass bulbs on a S+. It just fits into the White plastic next to the micro switch. And like Coyboy said most replacement switches seem to be the kind you have to rotate CW a notch to get them apart. Which to me is backwards to way you turn something to get it apart.

Every time I try pulling hard on a S+ or S2000 switch/lamp assembly the button housing cracks or breaks into 2 or more pieces and the switch wont ever stay in place then have to look for a replacement in my parts bin or hope i can get one quickly.
I even broke the black around the player button trying to pry the lens off one time (it was in my S2000)

I over the years I broke about 6-8 of them. now most of them was in the S+

Thanks for all of the input. I'll give it another go today with your suggestions and will report back.

these are low profile switches,  pull and try to pull at an angle. the white part is a little difficult to remove, the white portion will SNAP in place, again it is easier to seat one side and push at an angle to get the insert to SNAP into place.

A TIP TO EVERYONE WHEN REMOVING THE LAMP ASSEMBLY FROM A S+  BUTTON  SWITCH.  the reason they break so often: HEAT  the bulb heat makes the plastic brittle.  MOST times you can unscrew the nut that holds the switch in place down toward the very end of its travel, then wiggle the lamp assembly out, 95% of the time this will keep the plastic from breaking. Sometimes, I will unscrew  the nut all the way thus pulling the lamp assembly with it.

Hope this helps

Jim 

Got the buttons apart. It's a very small bulb. I'm guessing it's a #73 from the best I can tell (it's not marked on the bulb).

I'll take a trip to the automotive store tomorrow to see if I can find anything comparable in LED.

Use caution with LED.  You can fry other components with certain types from what others have posted. 

Jason

Polarity is the key. They'll either light or they won't. If they don't  then turn it around. I put my machine in test mode first if the bulb polarity isn't marked

He will be allright as long as he sticks to he buttons. Off hand the only other bulbs I can think of on a Game King/ I Game would be the BV bezel and I think a LED there would be a NO NO. ( unless you have a fetish for smoke )

I had LED's in my BV Bezel never had one issue with them.
I eventually replaced it with the LED version so the bill area would be well illuminated.
LED by itself can not cause something to burn out, they are nothing but diode that is designed to produce light.

I had a 73 bulb that would have done the same thing due to how the wire was longer and been bent over both sides just enough to cause a short between both contacts in the socket.

I even tried the LED's from my player buttons in my back lit reels for a week, the color looked better but the light was not as diffused as bulbs are, no damage to machine.

Already have the LED strip in the BV Bezels. Came with the machines that way. :)

About to go out looking for these bulbs now. There are lots of online dealers for them, but no one states the dimensions and most of them say they replace multiple bulb sizes which makes me wary of them.

I guess I should say somewhere that I'm a computer tech (30+ years) and a web application developer (10+ years).

Let me open mouth and insert foot, I'm getting good at it.

Wedge bulbs in slot machines come in two sizes 1 3/4  and 3 1/4  I have only found 2 different voltages 6.6 and  14 volts.  If you can't find the exact voltage bulb 6V will work in place of 6.6, same for 14V, 12V will work. When I was growing up light bulbs were rated in candle power somewhere along the line someone came up with the term Lumen's they mean the same thing, how bright the bulb is. Incandescent builds come in a wide range of candle power, I really haven't seen that range in LED's. ( I'm no expert )

Game King uses all 14V 1 3/4 bulbs except for the candle it will vary depending which candle you have.

http://www.jkllamps.com/led/wedgebasedleds (http://www.jkllamps.com/led/wedgebasedleds)

http://na.suzohapp.com/lighting/91003700.htm (http://na.suzohapp.com/lighting/91003700.htm)

Buzz, thanks for the links. Came up empty during my search yesterday. Only found regular #73 bulbs and they were 2/$5!

How many u need? I can hook u up! Pm sent!

Just wanted to post an update. I found compatible LEDs and have a few installed to test (see pic). They make a huge difference.

I'm waiting to get some transparency paper so I can re-do the button labels. Once I get that, I'll disassemble all of the buttons, replace the labels and change the bulbs.

For what it's worth I have a Brothers Label maker that will print Black on transparent tape. I do not remove the backing on the tape so I can move around the ledgend