New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello,

I just purchased my first slot machine.... I have always wanted one since I was 12 years old. Unfortunately, It may need some repairs. I have soldered computer motherboards and worked with multimeter's in the past....I am confident with a little help I can get this BABY going before 2013. ha ha

Questions.

1. How do I tell the model/make/number etc....

2. The machine just lights up and that it is it, the led displays are not working so there is no way I can get any codes/numbers! Where should I start?

3. I wanted to remove the Motherboard unsure of what steps to take.

4. Did I get in over my head?

Thank you so much ladies and gentlemen any comments would be greatly appreciated...

More Pictures

Last Set of Pics....... :89-

Interesting. First time I see this game theme.
I guess it's a clone of the DOUBLE FORTUNE with the 8800 mpu board.

I pulled the Board and it has a 8116- A2 Board in it....

Bruno, I believe that is an 8116 board with the bottom of the mpu cover cut off. The 8800 would have the bv connectors (if it had any) at the top left and would have the three wire power harness at outer edge bottom.

Cchambers08 you need to check the power supply. First thing I would do is remove the noise filter from the power supply and then try it.
The noise filter is not needed and is easy to remove. Two wires in, two wires out.
See this thread; http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=177.0

These noise filters fail and you lose all dc voltages. After removing it and connecting the wires cut, check the pinout voltages listed in the thread.

Keep us posted on your results! And thanks for the pics, a real help.
I see you just posted, it is an 8116

Jim

To answer your questions;

#1. There is no real model number, Universal used the game eprom number as the model number. Doesn't make much sense!!

#2. Power supply noise filter.

#3. Just unplug the harness coming out the round hole and pull it straight out. It slides in.

#4. I don't think so. High possibility it is just the noise filter. Parts are getting harder to find though. Nice looking Uni.

Looking at your pics I see some different things. On the button deck the second round button from the left should be a CASHOUT button. What does it say?
Usually the CASHOUT button is rectangular.

On the upper right of the inside of the machine (pic 1) there is the white door switch and a green button. That green button should be yellow and it should say RESET SW.
Inside at the meters there are two more buttons. I see they too are green. The lower one should be red and say SERVICE.

And, as said before, it looks like the MPU case cover has been cut. Maybe someone wanted to change out eproms easier??

Looks like this machine has had some hands in it before.

Thank you everyone for the words on wisdom..... I will be able to remove the noise filter tonight after work tonight and provide more info such as buttons and such...

http://youtu.be/xhfW3oyXLRw (http://youtu.be/xhfW3oyXLRw)  - Video Part 1 after removing Power Supply Noise Filter

http://youtu.be/alcWhWbjJrY (http://youtu.be/alcWhWbjJrY)  - Video Part 2 after removing Power Supply Noise Filter

Some other issues or concerns that I have determined that may be an Issue....

1. I cannot tell if the fuses are blown or not.... Would they be just regular car fuses?

2. The Key has broken off in the lock and I can not lock it... Is there a sensor on a machine like this?

3. The coin hopper does not make any noise would  this be a sign of a blown fuse or something else??

Thanks... Any input would be appreciated :71-

Wow, it may be 2013 before we get this one working!!

1. The fuses are like appliance fuses. With the machine off turn the black knobs on the power supply counter-clockwise and remove the fuses one at a time. Set your multimeter to OHM's and put one lead from the multimeter on each end of the fuse. If your meter goes to the right most of the way, fuse is good, if it stays at zero, fuse no good. Make sure the fuses are screwed in tight. Black knobs on front of power supply, push in, turn to the right.

2. The latch in the door blinds an optic sensor. Look in the door where the lock is and go down 3 inches. You should see a grey U shaped plastic device with wires plugged into the bottom.
You need to put a piece electricans tape in the U of this device. It will then fool the machine thinking the door is locked.

3. At startup the hopper should cycle for a second or two, that's it.

But your troubles start at the power supply. The power seems to be blinking, more off than on. Or there could be a short somewhere else??
Even though the lights are staying on I would start by checking the power cord, especially where it enters the bottom of the machine. Unplug it before you check it. Many times the cord gets crushed under the machine. Look for damage there first.
Then check the power supply, I'll pm you.

Jim

Noticed in your video that the green button next to the white door button says SERVICE SW. This is troubling as it should say RESET SW. I can see someone replacing the button with a different color, but putting on a different decal is a bit much.
Wondering if this machine was some sort of demo machine??

Either way your problem is a loose connection or a short. I betting loose connection(s)

If you can't find any loose connections then try unplugging the hopper and turn the machine on.
Then let me know if it is better or the same.

Jim

Very Weird as to how the labeling may have been changed.... I will try unplugging the hopper and see what happens.

Just tried unplugging the hopper and made no difference......

Tomorrow I will try..

1. Check Replace Fuses

2. Check the voltage of the power supply

3. Test/Check  the power cord

Wish me luck

Ok, if the hopper unplugged made it better than I would suspect wrong power supply. Don't often see that but it can happen.

So good luck tomorrow.

In the videos I saw the led's flash on the meters and when you pushed the top green button on the meters several times, I heard the handle solenoid trip. Pushing that button simulates a coin played and you can then hit the spin button with the door open and test the reels.
Looks like it will work if the short/loose connection is found and corrected.

Jim

So I checked the power supply voltage..... there was some ports with no voltage.....  I then checked the fuses to see if that may be the issue and the 2 AC 24 volt (3 amp) fuses were dead...

I had another long night at the office and could not get to the store before they closed....

Power Cord was in great shape all zip tied and pretty where it needed to be...

I have finally had some time to do some real digging....

I found some wires disconnected and taped up and some disconnected from the board connection... If someone knows if this is normal or has a wiring schematic that would be much appreciated. 

More photos of disconnected/cut wires?

 

Sometimes there are wires rolled up that would have been casino communication or progressive.  Uniman can probably tell you on that machine.  Every machine that I have had with blown fuses had coins or tokens buried inside causing shorts.  Take a look for that type of thing.

All looks normal except that last pic with wires cut. Not sure what those are??

Here are some pics of my board in my Universal Slot machine..... I am unsure what the board on top is.....

More Pics.....  :279-

And I thought the buttons on the machine was a frankenstien job!!!

Never have I seen an 8116-A2 like that! That big sub-board I have no idea what it does? And your RAM chip is on a sub-board too!
And your missing the dip switches at location 7D.
Also, there is an eprom at location 1A. That should have a small sub-board, although the sub-board does emulate an eprom so one could be used there, but never seen it.


You at least need a new, correct, board. And you need the sub-board at location 1A. And you need your eproms checked as I'm guessing they are suspect too!

ha ha @  Frankenstein Job... You know of any one that may have a working board???

This weekend I'll try to get one of my spare boards operating.

But first let me elaborate on why I said Frankenstien. Your machine looks like a typical Universal from the outside (almost), but not from the inside!
Your 8116-A2 is an early version. I can tell by the eprom socket at location 2A. Yours has a 24 pin socket. Most, 1985-on, have a 28-pin socket in that location. I have one with sockets like yours but not with those other sub-boards and every board I've ever touched had dip switches where yours does not. I'm starting to wonder if your board is pre-1984.

Your machine's meter board (circled in pic) is not typical. And the shrink wrapped harness attached to it not typical either. The large chute in the door not typical either.
And the real problem I see is the single connector coming out of your board. (circled in pic) There should be two smaller connectors, a 6-pin and 3-pin. Even if you get a new board it won't have the same connector as I see on yours.
You need to trace those wires and tell me where they go. They should go to the buttons on the door.

As I see it your machine has the oldest style power supply, a board that looks pre-1984, and wiring that doesn't match 1985-2000 Universals. I can only guess that someone put newer glass and reels in an old machine. It's really puzzling????

Below see my "typical" Universal vs your machine. The coin comparitor is not a big deal and neither is the color of the reel deck. It's the wiring, the meter board, and that large connector coming out of your board.

Oh man, I missed the black optics below your coin comparitor. Those were only used very early in Universal machines. Mine are gray.

Universal made machines before they mated stepper reels with a computerized virtual stop table in 1985. Your machines internal parts is making me believe your machine is pre 1985. But I don't believe they had buttons (spin, bet 1, cashout) on the door before 1985. So I'm guessing someone tried to make a working machine out of mismatched parts.

Sounds like a mess from what you are telling me.... I totally agree maybe it could be an earlier machine. Any thoughts as to what I should do with it??

I'm bullheaded and just don't quit so if it was mine I would look for a new board, check the eproms and get the correct ones if needed, and I would look for a non-working Uni for parts, mainly the wiring. Then I would install the wiring and replace the optics with gray optics taken from the parts machine.
The wiring isn't that hard at all in the machine. If the parts machine had a good door then you could just swap doors and glass, easier than rewiring the door.

You have a nice cabinet, nice glass and reels, a good power supply, and looks like a good hopper