New Life Games Tech Forums

Can anyone tell me what is the minimum battery voltage for green battery in a s2000 machine.  I have one with the netplex error that is 2.6 volts.  That may be part of the problem.

Anything under 3.0 can cause problems, they are 3.6 volt new. Exact voltage where problems start in not a sure thing, but I would guess 2.8

Thanks,  I need to find a replacement for the battery,  any suggestions, this is an enhanced game.  I am not a great solderer but possibly can get it done.

That green battery is a nicad battery.  That one recharges itself when the machine is on.  I have also determined it is not required.  If you de-solder the battery and solder a jumper wire between all 3 contacts it will run fine without that one.

I am pretty sure that if you have a machine that has sat idle for a extended time or not used much that just turning the machine on and you may have to even unplug the speakers/sound (from error noise) the Green battery will recharge if it's ok.   This can be done usually overnight.  Then chk your voltage on that one---B.

The battery is required but with your technique it would work but info is not retained. It is there for a reason.  holds memory for vital op systems/memory. 

It actually is not.  I have been running mine fine without it for months turning off machine when not in use.  The lithium battery is what holds the settings.

The green battery has nothing to do with retaining the memory in a S2000 that is handled by the CMOS battery.
The green battery is used to power the tattle tale  circuits when machine power is off.
Tattle tale circuits monitor the door optics, BV door, and drop doors
I left out the cash can because that is detected by the BV and it would be off when power is off

 

Getting rid of the battery depends on the board. If it's an enhanced board the battery has to stay

It actually does not have to stay on the enhanced.  Foster is right about it monitoring door optics because when I say you have to jumper the 3 points with a wire, if you don't you will get door open errors, but when they are jumpered with no green battery at all on an enhanced board it works perfectly.

I know there's been talk about that mod for the 500 series boards, but I'd never heard of anyone having success removing the green battery on a 1270 board. Glad it works

Yeah.  I help out in a shop that restores and sells used slots and we have been testing and using that method on the enhanced board for a while now with great results.  Works great to prevent having the nicads fail and leak acid on the board to destroy it.  you can avoid the issue getting it off there before it fails.

Can you please post pictures of your modification?

Let the SECRET OUT . Where do we add these jumpers . post pic or draw stick man pics . LOL

Here they are.  The first pic is of the complete board area with the actual board covering the battery when installed.  The second is with the upper board removed showing the full battery.  The third is with the battery removed and the wire jumpers in place.  The solder is not the best in the photo.  my iron seems to not be heating correctly right now, but it shows how to jumper it.

Here is the jumpered pic

If i am seeing this correctly you have soldered the - and the + together ?  P.B.

You are correct.  both + sides need to be soldered to the - side for it to get past the tell tale circuits.  You can also solder the whole copper pad on the + side and then just use one wire from + to - as well.  It just needs a good solid connection through the hole in the board on all 3 spots connecting to each other or you will still get the sensor errors.

 :103- :103- :103- :103- :103-
Knowing that the battery is a Nicad, that means it's rechargeable.
So when power is applied a low milli-amp current at 3V is applied back to the battery.
With the jumpers as pictured that would be a direct short.
Not sure how the long term affect would be?

I would feel safer putting a 150, 180 or 220 ohm resister between the + and - to protect the charging circuits and that allow 10mA to 20mA current flow depending on the actual voltage from the charging circuit.

My guess.... smoke effects?   :72-    :98-

We have been monitoring the boards closely before saying it will work.  No overheating or adverse effects at all.  It appears the trickle charge does the same thing as what a dead (or fully charged battery) would do in that spot.  The power just passes through like it is not there.

Come on bunker you know your up for this. I may try this this weekend and will post results .      IF this Works as described Then a major karma storm should rain upon bhinkley

I like the idea, but what I'm wondering is if a guy could trace the circuit back and cut the charge circuit without adverse effects to the board? I'd try, but I don't currently have any games running enhanced boards

"Enhanced boards" ?? Jeesh! What's that!!????    :72-
I'm still running the the ol' 502's on my S2000 9liner setup!  :8-
You guys are waayyy too advanced for me!   :89-

I  stand by my previous post to use a resister to allow a 10-30ma current to flow through the resistor, so the circuits involved detect a charging a battery (that is not there)

In my high school electronics class, we had to calculate and measure the internal resistance of a battery and DC power supply
I have forgotten exactly how to do so but I can figure it out.
if you do not think they have resistance in both, think again!

:212- :212- :212- :212-

OK so which of the above resisters would allow the correct amount of current flow with out the green battery to fool the board and make it think the battery was there .

DO NOT short the terminals together ;  :81- All you are doing is burning up the charge circuit.  Just remove the battery and be done with it.  No need for any resistors.
I see nothing in the schematic to indicate that a charge current would be detected by any other circuit other than the circuitry that regulates the charging current.
Like Foster said ... It is simply a BACKUP power source for the TT circuit. 

Without the battery there you will get door sensor errors without a jumper of some sort there

 :103-
I have no idea why you would be getting door sensor errors without shorting out the charger circuit.  :103-
With no battery, you get zero volts on the TT sensor line (Power off)
With no battery and shorted terminals you get zero volts on the TT sensor line (Power off).
So whats the difference?

Not sure.  It took us a while to figure out that is where the issue was though.

This will require some experimentation to be sure

When the battery is not connected in an Enhanced board the board to me looks like something is continuously resetting the board  which should only happen one time after power is stable
I forgot what the MPU LED's were doing with no battery connected.

Most all complex computer boards have a reset that occurs shortly after power up.

this could account for the flashing netplex down syndrom that has been discussed here a lot lately.

Why not just replace it with a new battery?

Jameco sell that battery for $5.25

That's too easy Proten!  :72-
We don't learn anything doing thing's the easy way!!!  :97-

I actually get mine from Mouser

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Varta/COMP-18-3-NMH/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsG1k5vdNM/cwKX2CU%252b1oyF (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Varta/COMP-18-3-NMH/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsG1k5vdNM/cwKX2CU%252b1oyF)

These are the original batteries at 150mah
I would perfer to remove the battery all together to prevent corrosion damage.
If you see ANY blue corrosion around the battery area, replace the battery.

The reason for wanting to remove the battery is simple.  When you have one that leaks acid and gets the corrosion as Neon mentions, if it is not caught quick enough and gets onto the MPU surface it can damage the traces on the board and poof you have a useless MPU, so a $6 battery becomes a whole new board instead.

I know this is a different machine entirely, but using it as an example.  The shop I work at used to be able to get the old Bally 500 boards if I remember which ones they were for like $40.  then demand went up for them due to an issue going on and the prices skyrocketed, so they are still showing about $250 for the same board.  That is the point of removing the battery is preserving the boards so people don't have to pay inflated prices later because of a battery destroying the whole board with an acid leak.

Fully understand why battery removal is wanted.

We electronical types don't understand how shorting out the circuit helps, or fixes, or solves anything??????

Could it be the connecting of the + pos. contacts?

I tested a theory today.  I just jumpered the two positives before birthing a machine, and it doesn't even allow you to clear the EEPROM without the + and - connected