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I have a DBV-200 that has been giving me headaches since I got it. 
Sometimes the unit will steal bills and not assign credits.  Sometimes it won't take bills at all.   I know it's the dbv-200 because I replaced it with a 145 - which works perfectly every time.   Is there a way to fix this thing? Right now I don't want to spend $50 for a new one.  Mainly because the 145 works and I don't have many *new* bills that the 145 would balk at.

Here is the manual for the DBV200. Check the cleaning and dip settings. There is sometimes a problem when a 200 head is put into a 145 transport. Maybe someone else can elaborate. I have done 200 head switches on WMS and Gamemakers with no problem. Hope this helps.

 Dan (tacman)

Thanks!

I did at one point open it up to clean it.  I used a clean white polish cloth with no water or chemicals.   It looked fine.   I haven't looked at switched because it will work sometimes and not others.

I have seen DBV200's that would not accept bills on a regular basis and they needed to be calibrated. They can be calibrated in the machine by setting the switches to calibration mode and inserting the calibration paper. The calibration paper is cheap (under $5) and I think Jim at Blueridge slots has them in stock.

I have also seen some power supplies don't have enough "omp" to run a 200 and will work fine with a 145. The power supply that works for both is the one with vents in the side. If you have another power supply you might give it a try.

Hope this helps.

Here are two more ideas to investigate.

Is this on the same Bally 5500 that had the dbv 145 issue at the beginning of the year? If it is, I'd look really carefully at the harness for an intermittent open (internally broken wire). I had the same symptoms and it was the harness.

If the harness is definitely not the problem and the DIP switches are set correctly (all off for ID044, or #10 on for ID045), then maybe it's programmed for a Williams machine (SH) instead of a Bally (SG). The chip could be mislabeled. Again, it's happened to me.

Stat - It is the same bally and same 5500 and the same dbv 200 --- I thought that I had the problem licked.  I bought new mpu boards for my games and all was well.   The problem reappeared when I swapped game kits.  Got a red light - then green after several resets - then stealing bills again  - then green without accepting bills.  I pulled out the 200 put in the 145 and shazam  - no more problems. 
I have tried several power supplies with same results.

 I'll try the calibration paper and keep a sharp eye on the harness.   

 I could put the dbv in my igt and see if the problem occurs there too..

Hello!

On an IGT when you go from a 145 to a 200 you have to replace the power supply with a higher wattage one.  On a IGT, the newer supply has vents on it (see pic below) - the 145 supply does not.  When using a 200 with an older supply, you will get odd intermittent issues - because sometimes the supply gives enough power, sometimes it doesn't.  The random-ness of your issues make me think this might be the problem.  If it were a setting, it wouldn't work sometimes - follow?

Dan #2

Yes  - I follow.    My IGT already has a 200 so it should be an easy swap -  Do I have to change any setting going from a Bally 5500 to an S+?

I don't think you can do it.  An S+ uses a dbv200 ss as statfrek said, the bally uses the 200sg  ,different front end all together, sg has bill input as part of the molded plastic.  THe ido's are diffferent fo bally/igt. Igt uses 022/023, so your bally head won't have igt programming in it. 

look and see if there aren't anypinched wires on the top of the head ,asyou open the top as you would to remove a jammed bill, look at the wire harness on the side, I have seen wires pinched there that cause all kind of problems.

Jim

I looked and you are right... 

So much to learn -

I think I'll do a continuity test on each wire in the harness and make sure they are all OK.   

You have given me hope that the 200 head may still be OK.  I was going to toss it.   In the process of changing games or mpu boards if the 145 does anything suspicious I'll know it's the wiring. 

I was away from the computer for a while, so thanks Jim for picking up the slack.  :3-

As Stat said, look at the dipswitches on the 200 head, (number 10) if the 145 works than number 10 should be off on the 200, (and all others as well if somewhat current software)