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I have what I think is an S+ (has a Reel chips that says "S-Plus" on it - game chip has no label but I found an SS872 ship on the bottom of the machine).  Battery was dead (12 error) and I replaced and got the 61.  Pushed the Reset button inside and got the 61-1 where I need to close the door and turn the reset key, but found there was no reset key and doing it with the door open didn't work.  So I had to turn it off for a bit then wire up an external switch so I could do the reset.  Turned it on to the 61 error, but now it won't go to the 61-1 - ever.  I have a Clear 123 chip and tried that, but it didn't help.  Pulled the CMOS chip and grounded all the legs to metal (as suggested elsewhere here) but that didn't help.

So - either I have the wrong clear chip, wrong clear procedure (might it be an S instead of S+?), some other problem, or all of the above?

Any ideas?

If it says 123 clear chip, it is a S+ clear chip. Somewhere else is your problem. Could be a bad CMOS, or something else. Did you try to press and hold for 3-4 sec the test button?
Are the door optics OK?
When you put the clear chip, what says on the display?

I've tested the white reset button (mounted on the side of the MPU enclosure between the plugs, btw) with my meter and it's working.

I've tried holding the reset button in for 20 seconds with nothing happening.  Should I try holding it in at power up?

When I put in the clear chip and powered up, it said 0 in the display.  I pressed the reset button twice and it then starts counting up twice until it stops with 2 999.  I then power down and put the game rom back in and it powers up to 61.  Pressing the reset button does nothing, no matter how long I hold it.

I assume the door optics are okay.  The reset button should get me to 61-1 even with the door open, so I don't know if the optics would have any bearing on it.

I've read about putting in another SP chip (although this might be an SS chip) and doing the clear that way, but I don't have another handy.  All other slots in the shop at the moment are different models.

What kind of CMOS chip is it?  Don't know if I have any others...

seems like I remember having a similar problems years ago.  I found a "green" ground wire running down the back right corner of the cabinet behind the reels.  If it's not grounded then ground it to the cabinet.  Hope this helps.

Bob

to test the door optics:   push the test button until you get a 1 in the coins played window. you should see a 10_1 in the winner paid window, push the change button until you see a 13_0 in the winner paid window, now close the main door and the 13_0 should change to a 13_1  and continue to toggle until you move the door latch up. If it doesn't toggle, check the cash door switch or the belly door switch. 

if it toggles and you still can't clear with the clear chip, replace the E-squared chip on the motherboard,  replace with a socket.

Hope this helps

Jim

I don't have it with me, but I assume the "E-squared" chip is obvious?

If you're not getting to 61-1, check the self test switch and its wiring to the motherboard. Use a volt meter to test continuity when you activate the switch, both at the switch itself and where it is connected to the motherboard. If it's working correctly, then I'd try a new known good MPU board.

Once when I had the '61' that wouldn't clear I found a bent pin on the MPU board where it slides on the mother board. There are hundreds of pins so check closely.

THe EEPROM is the 8 pin chip on the motherboard (the board the MPU plugs into). While it "might" be bad, normally you will get a 65_0 error if it is. And I don't think the clear chip would complete doing it's thing (counting) if it was bad.

As mentioned in the 3rd post,  test button verified working. When I do the reset key, I can advance through the menu using the test button, so I know it works. But I can't get into menu with the white button, so perhaps it's not registering the door is open? But closing the door causes the display to blank and then go back to the 61 error...

One of the first things I checked, but I appreciate the thought. I've also tried pushing on it and wiggling just in case there was a bad contact. Checked board for bad solder on the pins too.

Anyone have the pinout so I can check the trace on the board?

Just a WAG, but have you checked your cash can door switch, or of it does not have one, that the green wired are shorted together?

Not yet...

You said you got the 61-1 after doing a ram clear, then you couldn't turn the jp reset key until you wired a switch too it... Then you turned the machine off.
Did you do another ram clear on it after you turned it off?
You turned it off when it got to 61-1, so if you didn't ram clear it again, that could be your problem... Just checking.   :186-

That could prevent him from clearing the 61-1 (if the machine thought the door was open), but shouldn't prevent him from moving from 61 to 61-1 (since the door has to be open for that).

Wait a sec, something just clicked based on what you wrote above.

To be perfectly clear, a normal S+ has a white "self test" button inside the machine, next to the power switch, and a Jackpot Reset keyswitch on the outside of the machine, which you have apparently replaced with a momentary button.  Have you been pressing that button to try and get to 61-1?



Let's just start over one more time and do all of this:

- With the power off, remove the MPU board and remove the chip in the GAME PROM socket.  Put the CLEAR chip in its place (note the notch on the chip and the notch on the socket to make sure they match).

- Put the board back in and turn on the power.  Press the white self-test button in the machine until the numbers start counting up.  When they reach 2 999, it's done.  Turn the power off and remove the board.

- Replace the CLEAR chip with the GAME PROM chip you previously removed, and put the board back in.

- Turn on the power, you should then have a 61 error.  Press and hold the white self-test button inside the machine for 5 to 10 seconds, then release it.  There should be a ding (if your speaker is working).

- At this point, you should have a 61-1  Close the main door (and make sure the cash can door is closed, first, too).  Now turn the jackpot reset key on the outside of the machine (or in your case, press the momentary button you created to simulate that key) and release it.  The game should go on its "maiden spin" and begin working.


If you're still stuck, please do us a favor if you would by referring to the small white button inside the machine as the "self test button", and the jackpot reset keyswitch on the side of the machine as the "jackpot reset".  In your earlier posts in this thread I think that you've referred to both of these as the "reset" which is adding confusion.

It doesn't.  I've done the clear (which appears to work) multiple times, but after I put the game rom back in and push the white button - nothing happens.  Even if I hold it in for over a minute.  Won't take me to diagnostics either, although my momentary will...

At this point I'd try a different SP chip or a different MPU board.  I realize that you mentioned you don't have another chip to try, but honestly that would be my next step.

Yeah, that is why it was just a shot in the dark. But stranger things have happened.

It has to the chip on the mother board. I have ran into this numerious times.
Replace the mother board

Y'all are referring to the small board at the bottom that the mpu plugs into?

Yes

Assuming it is the motherboard, if I put the board into another machine and clear it that way, will the machine work properly when I put it back?

This doesn't work.  Pushing the test switch does nothing.  I can use the jackpot reset to to get into settings/audits, but I don't see anything like you describe...

Not "if" the EEPROM is bad. However, it would be a way to check to see if it's bad (i.e. it would do the same thing in the other machine). If you have access to another machine, the easiest thing is to try your suspect MPU in the other machine first to rule that out.

I will have access to another machine on Thursday, so if necessary I will test this MPU in that machine and see what happens...

I would go with replacing the cmos ram chip!

Okay, I had to go on a service call to replace the hopper blade in an s+, so I took this along.  Was able to get the 61 to 61-1 using the white button.  It then showed a 65-3.  Pushed the white button again and got a 65-1.  Turned the reset key and it cleared.  Shut the door, reels spun, and the game was ready to accept coins.  Good.

Took the board back to the shop and put it into the machine and it came up with a 65-1 error (at least no more 61).  Unfortunately, the white button will not do anything.  Can't advance to the next step.  Reset key cycles through the different things, but it's now stuck at 65-1.

I've checked that the white button is working all the way back to the connector that the MPU plugs into.  We know that the MPU will recognize the white button because it recognized the white button in the other machine.  I guess the problem is the X24C04P as indicated in an earlier response (the e-squared chip)?  I looked it up and it says it's a Serial E2PROM.  Does that mean it has to programmed or hard-wired a certain way?  Where would I find a replacement?

It' reall sounding like you have a problem with the button. A 65_1 is just bad EEPROM data which is normal after what you did. If the EEPROM was bad, you would have gotten a 65_0.

The button tests fine with my meter.  I went all the way back to the white connector on the MB and put my meter on the pads and it shows a short when the button is pressed.  Kind of hard to test that on the board when the board is plugged in though.

If the button works, but the MPU registered the button in another machine, and you have continuity from the button all the way to the white connector on the MB, what else could do it?  I guess I could hard-wire a couple wires to the MPU and rig up a test button to see if it helps...

The motherboard could be bad. You can always pull it out and look for damage (a few resistors on there sometimes fry) and check for continuity to the MPU connector. Sometimes coins and such will get under it and cause issues.

I agree with poppo. Do you have a spare motherboard you can try in the problem machine? That would kill two birds with one stone (the EEPROM and the board itself).

I'm tellin ya....replace the CMOS ram chip it is a socket chip next to the EEPROM....I have had this problem a couple of times and replacing the CMOS ram solved the problem.

Well, I didn't expect this to work, since I got the MPU to clear and run in a different machine, but I tracked down another 8k x 8-bit Static CMOS (took a while) and put it in.  Had to clear again (came up as 61 and wouldn't advance).  After the clear, the button advanced to 61-1 just fine.  Triggered the reset key and got the 65-1.  Pushed the white button and it came right up.  Working fine now (although it doesn't play music while the reels spin but other sounds work and the yellow lamp on top keeps flashing but no error codes).

Thanks for the help...

Umm... No it's not. The EEPROM is on the motherboard. The CMOS is next to the Game and Reel EPROM.

Since he cleared the error in another machine with THIS MPU, doubt the CMOS was actually bad. More than likely it was a clear issue since the new one would not advance initially either until a clear was run again.  

I remember i had that problem before in one of the machines, the problem was the mother board, the little  board at the bottom where the mpu plugs into. as soon as i swaped with other machine i was able to clear the 61-1, so i had to replace it with a new one.

Put another motherboard in there, have very simular issue with a PE+ and it was the motherboard. Replaced the chip on the motherboard and still could not clear. Replaced board and all was well.

Then the problem wasn't with the chip Coors...did you ever determine what it was that was bad on the motherboard?

Anyways, this is an 8-pin EEPROM (24c04) chip located on the left-hand side of an S+ motherboard.
They are made by different chip manufacturers.
IGT used chips made by Atmel (AT24C04)
and sometimes chips made by the XICOR company (24C04N).

It pretty rare for these to go bad but they do...mainly because of coin dust build up or soft drink spills...>>>

Here's an excellent thread from an earlier time that you can look at guys...
NLG is jam packed with information because most of these problems have happened to us at one time or another...>>>

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14181.msg159641#msg159641 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=14181.msg159641#msg159641)