New Life Games Tech Forums

Thanks for all the replies to my previous post.
There is a key-operated switch on the right-hand side of my Bally 809 which is not connected to anything - I figure it was part of the security system of the casino in which this unit was located.
I would like to connect this switch so that, when it is operated, the hopper would pay out coins.  Being a "gambling" machine by nature, more coins should go into the machine than come out!!  It is quite a pain to have to open the machine to get quarters out, so a switch that could be operated from outside the machine would be handy.
I have the service manual by Marshall Fey covering this series of machine.  On page 15 of this manual, reference is made to a set of "payout relay switches" - (actually, redundant relay contacts) on the payout relay which have green and white wires attached to them.  The description states that these contacts "complete a circuit to the hopper motor which starts the hopper coin disc revolving.  Also completes a circuit to the safety timer motor."
If I attach a couple of wires to this pair of wires, route them through a 2-pin connector set (so I can remove the coin hopper for service) and connect them to the switch on the cabinet, would this accomplish what I want to do?  OR - is there a better way to do this?  Thanks for any help.
Dave E

You might try tapping in to the 50 pay or 100 pay tabs of your hopper board, and run that to a 50V on the other side of your unused switch.  If you find the wire, and tap in on the cabinet side of the Beau plug, it will not affect pulling your hopper out, nor will you have to do any rewiring on the hopper itself. You could use T-taps to tie in, and then push on connectors to the switch, and eliminate the need for soldering.  Then, whenever you turn your switch, it will pay out 50 or 100 coins.

While I don't have a schematic in front of me, it seems this should work.  I did something kinda like that when I converted my machine to mystery pays, and now whenever I push the change button, all blanks on the 3rd reel act as cherries. Pays like a bat out of hell.   I tied in to the 90 wire on the 3rd reel, but that is just a continuation of the 50V or so I believe....

Your solution would keep me in the 50-volt circuitry - that would probably be a good thing.
I tacked a couple of wires across the green and white wires on the payout relay, reinstalled the hopper, and powered the unit up.  Read line voltage across the wires.  Put a 1-amp fuse across the wires (just in case something stupid happened); hopper motor started up, then fuse blew.  Used 3-amp fuse instead of 1-amp fuse; hopper motor ran and dispensed coins as long as the circuit was closed.
Added Fluke AC ammeter to circuit; found that payout circuit draws approximately 2.7 amps.
The main advantage to connecting it this way (in my novice opinion) is that only the devices that actually have to operate in order to dispense the coins operate - the hopper motor, override solenoid, and safety timer.  None of the other components involved in a normal payout (payout relay, payout unit step-up coil, etc.) are involved. 
When I get the keyswitch back from my friend the locksmith (did not get a key for this switch), I plan to put a 4-amp fuse in the line (just in case), connect everything up, and see how it works.  Hopefully, should make life easier when getting coins out of the machine for play (or to pay the rent!!).  Comments are welcome.
Dave E

Interesting solution.
Most excellent that you put a fuse inline!!!!
Very nice.

Connected everything up this afternoon - works like a champ!  Sure beats sticking my hand down into the hopper to retrieve coins.
Now I just need to clean the rest of the contacts, do a bunch of test pays to make sure it pays when and what it is supposed to, and find some help to get it home and set it up.  Bally certainly didn't worry about how much these things weigh!!
Old Reno, thanks for your help.  Forums like this are great when there are knowledgeable people on them that are willing to share their knowledge.
Dave E