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Just replace a corroded mpu board with a good working one from Barry at Fox Slots, When I turn the game on I am getting the readings: 500000 in the win meter, 3rd coin is flashing and tilt is steady. The reels did not lock up to ready position like they normally do when you turn it on. I have checked my connections and taken off the connectors and re seated them to the mpu and the I/O board. When I press the re set button at the hopper, the win meter showed 500006, then went back to 500000. I pressed the test button and did not get any response. Any idea as to what else I could check?

Thanks,

David

check your ribbon cable from IO to MPU - you have a bent pin or not installed correctly
 

Will do, thanks

I could have had the cable on the bottom of the mpu inserted in the wrong direction. Now when I turn the game on the pull handle solonoid coil and the reel stop coils are all engaging, pressing the test button or the reset button does not change anything. Could I have an issue with the I/O board or possibly a cold solder joint or poor connection somewhere?

Thanks,

David

so you still have the 500000?  disconnect the ribbon cable and you should still have the 500000 but no chattering of coils.  if no chattering then recheck the ribbon cable connections again.

No bent pins on either sides of the ribbon cables, could I have a bad cable? I don't see any visible sign of any damage on them and the pins are nice and shiny with no corrosion. I have re seated all connectors and chips on the mpu board. Still no response from the reset button or the test button. Couls it be a problem with that hopper control board? I don't know if it matters or not but this machine has 2 other boards behind the award glass, one is a sound board with a red test switch that when pressed it goes through a series of sound checks, kinda like a Bally pinball squalk and talk, the other board I have no idea as to what it is.

the 500000 indicates the mpu and io are not communicating.  originally you were getting chattering when you had the ribbon cable on - which indicates cable was installed incorrectly.  You may have an bad IO board - if you have another cable and IO board I would try swapping out.    Also leave the Hopper and Reel mechanism out until issue is resolved.  Lastly make sure you haven't activated the reset key on side of machine or have a coin stuck in the coin switch.

Make sure your ribbon cable is lined up properly and not off one set of pins in the socket. It's hard to see in there sometimes.

I turned the reset key and turned the game off and back on again and that cleared the tilt and the 3rd coin flashing issue and I was able to go through the tests. When I got to test #5 for the reel readers, I get an "11" in the window. Was able to pass a hopper test, it released 10 coins. Is there any possibility that the 2 boards behind the top award glass could be causing these issues since they too have ribbon cables going to them? If not, could I have a stuck switch somewhere sonce I had the tilt and and 3rd coin light flashing and when I press the reset button, they don't change? I have alos checked all of the fuses with a multimeter and they all checked out fine. I checked the voltages on the power supply at the test points and was getting @ .4 volts below what they should read on all 3 test points. I tried another I/O board from the other machine that I am having trouble with right now and that did not change anythin, so I doubt I have 2 bad I/O boards, but I can't be 100% sure since I don't have a working game to try parts from. So at this point I am still stumped on this. :103-

i assume you are referring to a sound board?  as the other board with ribbon cable or is this a credit game?  either way disconnect the ribbon cables to those boards and see what happens.

Back at a dead end again, same problem. 3rd coin light is flashing and tilt light is steady, if I press the reset button it goes off for a second and then goes back to the same thing. I have checked the ribbon cable thoroughly and all pins on both ends of the cable look fine, nothing bent and all of them are shiny with no corrosion. I have also replaced the connector to the power board because it had some discoloration and also replaced each pin on the connector with new ones, plus it does read the correct voltages. I just don't know hat else I can do except order another ribbon cable and another I/O board even though I'm pretty sure this I/O board that I have is fine and the MPU should be fine because it came from Barry at Foxslots. Any other ideas to what else I can try? Is there a way I can check my I/O board with a multimeter?

Dazed and confused and ready to get the ol' bat out. :279- :8- :103- :103-

Bump, surely someone know something else to try?

Does that machine your working on have the progressive jackpot on the top? I read a thread here a while back that had similar problems and it was caused but the progressive system needing to be reset if I remember right? Can you post a pic or two of you machine? I know the I/O has a metal loop like the power supply PCB for testing voltage, but I myself have never had to use it, so I'm not 100% sure what it reads. I'd have to find my manual and look it up.

Gary

No progressive on the machine but there is a sound board and another board in the top behind the award glass. I will post pics later this afternoon.

Thanks,

David

What is the code in the display?

The ribbon cables are polarized. Are they connected in the proper polarization? There is a red stripe on the ribbon cable for indication.

Try leaving the sound ribbon cable and the small buffer board disconnected from the lower right side of the I/O board and see if this changes anything.

500000, I did unplug the ribbon cable on the bottom right of the I/O board and nothing changed.

Here are a few pictures of the area behind the award glass, also I found 4 wires that were not connected to anything. One wire (grey with a white trace), I believe goes to the other side of the solonoid that operates the coin diverter. The other 3 ( 1 grey with a brown trace , 1 grey and 1 brown with a white trace) I have no idea where they go. Also above the same area I have a plain grey wire (which goes down to the coin switch) and an orange wire with a black trace. all of these were wrapped in electrical tape. I'm sure with all of these not being connected properly, could be why I can't clear the machine to play. Pictures below. hopefully this will help with the diagnosis.

Thanks,

David

more pics

last two pics

Saturday bump

Take the hopper & reel assy  out and take some pics of the lower and upper compartments so we can have a look see.

 I know it goes right into the tilt after its been reset, but are you able to run any of the machine test 2-8?

Gary

The orange with black stripe & gray wire may have been for the coin mech diverter not needed and won't cause your problem.

The gray with the white stripe near the coin switch i believe goes to the diverter coil, not needed and won't cause your problem.  

The lowest wires, 2 gray & brown with white stripe are for a switch that has been removed. The 2 gray wires should be tied together. The brown with white stripe that used to go to the switch , I do not think it is needed and I don't think that is your problem.

Give this a try, take the sound board  ribbon cable and swap it with the ribbon cable that connects your MPU & I/O boards together and see if that ribbon cable is the problem.

I was able to get the machine into test mode by holding the key reset switch down (the one on the inside bottom right of the cabinet) and pressing the reset button on the hopper control board.

On test #2 it seem as if some of the solonoids are not engaging, the lamps are cycling, each individual reel stop is working, the pull handle solonoid is working, it just seems like there should be a few more engaging.

Test # 3, no switches are showing open

Test #4 hopper dropped 10 quarters

Test #5 I got this code:  1.1.3...

Test #6 I got this code:  6.7.8.4.8.1.

Test #8 when I engaged the coin switch wire it came back to the same "3rd coin flashing and steady tilt light"

I am including the other pics that were requested

Hopefully getting closer to this albatross working again.

Thanks,

David

pics

more pics

last 2 pics

 your ribbon cable that connects the MPU to the I/O may be wrong . The red stripes/tracers are 180* off compared to mine. Take your cable off and switch it. The red tracers on mine are facing the opposite direction as yours. The red tracer on the MPU should be toward the back of the machine and the red tracer on the I/O should be toward the bottom  of the I/O board. Give it a try.

I just tried that and am still getting the same results, you had my hopes up for about............4 minutes, DANG!!!!!!!!!!1 :279-

You changed the MPU, are all the socketed IC's in the proper position? The indents/marks for polarization should ALL be pointing to the right. Even though some the info/writing/ID maybe upside down they have to be as the indicators that is printed on the surface of the board. Are all the IC's seated all the way in? No of the pins on the IC's got folded under when swap from board to board? Check even the IC's that you did not swap.

Take that ribbon cable off and take a pic of the pins of both ends so we can have a look see at that cable.

The door lock switch with open contact/open connection can cause a 50 000 code, I do not think this is the same code you are having.

But try it anyway. The switch needs to be unactivated and the contacts need to be checked to make sure they are closed and completeing the circuit. Then make sure the "door open" tower light goes out when you close and latch the door. The tower light is working when the door opens and closes, correct? Also the door hinge switch has to be working properly.

Your machine has had me thinking...  :103-  It acts like a machine thats been coined up with the door open, they go right into a tilt mode.. Have you checked the condition and operation of the door hinge switch. It's located behind the bottom hinge.. One way to check it is to put the machine in a test mode, 2,3,4, etc., and then close the door. If it's working the test mode should stop and clear, giving you a 50000 in your win meter.. I did notice one thing in one of your earlier pics, and that is that your coin switch looks like its been worked on. Check and see if it's grounding out the wires to the metal plate it's mounted too. you don't have any insulators covering the wire where it's soldered to the switch.. One other thing I see is that there is no resistor between your divertor coil and coins switch? I don't thing thats going to cause this problem though.. One last thing, I have in the past removed and by passed the door lock cherry switch, I think they are wired nornally closed, so you should be able to just connect the wire together..

Gary

Just tried another I/O board and ribbon cable, same results, nothing different. I did as you said though, went into test mode and closed the door, it stopped the test mode and went back to the "ti;t" and "plat 3 coins" flashing. It has to be some type of wiring issue in or around the door, door lock switch or coin switch I believe. Can you or someone else post a picture of the wire colors and the order they are in on the connector that goes to the power supply mounted to the back inside of the cabinet, I need to make sure mine is wired correctly because it had a poor repair job on it when I first got the machine. Another thing, there are 2 boards in the top behind the award glass, 1 is a sound board for sure but what is the other board for, perhaps my problem is in that board since it has a ribbon cable also that comes down to the I/O board. I could try to get a resistor to go between the coin switch and the diverter coil, can you tell me the proper resistor to use and if Radio Shack would have it or would I have to order one? I still can try to tie the wires together that are going to the door lock switch to see if that changes anything, would I also need to do the same for the switch on the right inside of the machine that is activated by the reset key? One last thing, could there be an issue with the reel readers that may not let the game get into play mode, plus I had a code in the window while on the reel reader test mode. On test #2 the coil/solonoid that activates the 3 reels locked position does not engage.  :25- :103- :99-

Here's some pics

power supply

I would disconnect the wires from the door lock switch and wire them together. This will eliminate that possibility of a bad switch.

Now do you have a light come on on your candle light on top of your machine when you have the door open? And does this light go out when you close the door? If the light does not come on a burnt bulb is the first suspect. Check and test the bulbs in the candle.

If the light comes on even though the door is closed, the door hinge switch needs to be adjusted. With the door open and the candle light is on, reach inside the hinge with a screwdriver and push in on the switch and see if the candle light goes out. This will tell you the switch is functioning properly and need adjusted tighter to the hinge if the light stays on when the door is closed.

Another thing when you have the door open and press the "test" & "reset" buttons on the hopper, press and hold the button on the right, as you hold this button down,  press the button on the left and then let go of both buttons.

You may have to do this process twice and the machine will reset and the reels will lock and the machine should reset.

This machine does not have a candle, nor does it have an opening or a place on top for one. I will try to press the buttons on the hopper in the manner that you suggest. I already have the door lock switch wires cut and twisted together, that has not changed anything as of yet either. Can you post a picture of the coin switch area and diverter so I can see the proper wiring for those?

Thanks,

David

pics

pics

pics

The resistor I believe is light blue, red, red, gold. 6.2k ohm. I could not find it on the print. Wanted to confirm it because of age the colors may change and age of my eyes, just wanted to be sure.

You could adjust the door hinge switch tighter to the hinge to be sure it is activating, being you do not have a candle light. You can hear the door hinge switch click when the power is off and while closing the door.

The door switch is working fine because when in test mode, if I close it, it goes back to the tilt/play 3 coins flashing. I have also added the correct resistor and wired it together with the coin switch and diverter solonoid, still have the same problem. All I can think at this point is that it has to be a wiring problem of some type, unless there is a problem with the MPU, but it should be fine, it came from Barry at Fox Slots. I could send this MPU board to another member to test in their machine so I could at least rule that part out if someone would do that for me.

I've never worked on one of those type Bally's that have the credit buttons. Have you checked the door buttons functions? I don't believe that's the problem though. Beginning to wonder if it couldn't be a software problem? Have you checked the the two molex plugs that attach to the reels for any broken or grounded out wires? I'm kind of out of ideas on what to check next? I would check every bulb socket, molex plug connector, make sure that switch wires have insulators on them so they don't ground out. I've runing into a couple machines that have kicked my butt. Ones still in my garage waiting for me... I had to walk away from it before i reached for my sledge hammer... Maybe someday I'll get it fixed..

Gary

All of the buttons function correctly when in test mode so I think they are all ok. I will check the 2 molex plugs again but they looked fine when I was first started working on the machine. It could have something to do with the reels though because on the #2 solonoid test the reels will set one at a time but will not lock all 3 at one time, like when you turn the game on and the all lock into place. The sledge is sounding like a better idea though, but it's a damn challenge now, don't want to let it beat me. :279-

I have the same type slot (Bally credit slot).
If you want, I will test your boards on my machine
to help you rule out the boards as the problem.
PM me if you want to talk on the idea.

Paul

Well first of all I want to thank Proten, Barry at Foxslots, tkrozleski and Amachanic for the tech support on this game. Proten tested all of my boards from my game in one of his and did some solder repair, etc and he was getting the same tilt error in his game. Well, long story short, I purchased another E series MPU from Rudys Deals and swapped all of the personality chips from the other board and the tilt error went away! I had anew problem, it would accept the coins and release the pull arm and and spin the reels but they never would stop so Proten advised me to check the kicker switch and it turned out to be bad, so I robbed the one from the reset key area of the same machine and swapped it out and now everything works: accepts coins, allows me to play a game, reels stop as they should, pays out correctly and cashes out correctly. According to this machine, all payouts go to the credit meter but my credit meter is dead, not showing any numbers in the window at all plus I have no sounds either (this game has a sound board in the top box that a ribbon cable from the I/O board plugs into and from there it plugs into another small circuit board in the top box (the credit meter ribbon cable plugs into this same small circuit board as well. Well I did find that on my 3 way ribbon cable that goes from the I/O board to the sound board that 2 of the pins on the end that plugs into the small daughter board on the I/O board were broken off, so that may be why I am not getting any sound. I will check with Barry to see if he has any of those ribbon cables with the 3 16 pin connectors. Anyone know what I may check to get my credit meter working?

Hope that was not too much info, thanks again guys for the help on this machine and karma going out to you. :131-

bump please for advice on the credit meter problem.

Thanks,

David

You can get the ribbon cable here!!!

http://www.slotmachinerepair.com/repair.html (http://www.slotmachinerepair.com/repair.html)

Excellent, thank you sir!

Well I got the 3 way ribbon cable in today from K-Lar out in Las Vegas and installed it but I am still not getting any sounds when I drop a coin or upon a winning combination. Now it could be that I may not have each ribbon cable inserted in the proper direction as far as where the red stripe on them must be located when plugged into the I/O board and the 2 boards in the top box ( the small I/O and the sound board) Now I can still press the test button on the sound board and hear all of the sound check sounds, so is there a setting, possibly through the dip switches on the MPU board I need to have set in order to obtain sound? And on another note, the credit meter will not display how many credits I have earned. I will include pics again of the front of the machine and of the sound board and the small I/O board in the top box area.

I do remember seeing something in the repair manual about dip switch settings. If I remember right it had something to do with the #1 switch setting. In one dirrection you have coin sound and the other direction you didn't.  I'm not 100% sure it's switch 1, but I know it worked because I tried it out in my Continental and it shut the coin in bell off as well as the payoff. I didn't like off, so I turned it back on.

Gary

This particular machine does not have a bell in it like other Bally machines I have seen, just the soundboard. So the soundboard may not have anything to do with the coin in sounds (I may actually need to install a bell for that) but I still should be getting sounds on a winning pay. I'm hoping it is something as simple as one or more of the 3 way ribbon cable ends inserted in the wrong direction, hopefully another member here will have a similar machine and can tell me how theirs is set up.