New Life Games Tech Forums

Hey all,

Since there was already a 3/4 hole cut out in the side of the machine for the W-2 reset swtich next to the Jackpot reset switch, I decided to install an external Power switch so that I wouldn't have to keep opening the machine to turn it on and off.

Here's a picture of the wires on the back of the internal power switch, and a picture of the external switch installed, for some reason there are 4 wires on the power switch?   I assume it's actually switching off 2 seperate circuits?  My External switch, only has 2 terminals.

Anyway, does anyone know which 2 wires I need to run to the external switch?

Obviously I want it so if the internal power switch is switched off reguardless of the external switch the machine will be OFF.

If there is a different way I should/could connect the external power switch let me know?

Thanks!

-TheChad

Brown wires are the hot (120V) wires
the blue wires are the neutral

but double check and you either have to wire the blue wires together or use a Double Pole Single Throw switch which is the same type that is in the machine.

How I find the hot in 120V circuit when both hot and neutral are wired to a switch which is more common practice since many things can run on 120 or 240 (PC power supplies if they have a hard power switch use DPST switch)
Using a Volt meter touch one probe to the chassis, machine plugged in (can be off or on) then carefully touch each switch terminal withe the other probe and watch for 110-125V AC (make the multimeter is set for AC Voltage(~)
WARNING: if you are not sure which is neutral or hot do not install the switch, if you turn it on and off via the neutral you can cause damage to the machine or some other item in the house since the hot is still connected to the machine when off.

Thanks for the info Foster.

I decided to just go buy a DPST switch.

Please forgive me if this is a stupid question, it's been several years since I've worked on wiring/electronics..

What is the proper way to wire a double switch?

I know it's going to involve running the hots to 1 switch and the nutrals to the other switch and running jumpers in between, I just want to confirm the proper wiring before I attempt it..

Thanks!

-TheChad

Unless you are trying to have it so the original switch has to be on as well just move the wires to the new switch

If you want to make so both have to be on to turn the machine on
here it is in character drawing
the wires between switches are the jumpers be extremely careful and not cross wire it (18 AWG is what IGT used in wiring the switch)
in other words blue connects to blue and brown connects to brown when both switches are on
The original switch divides the 2 poles with an insulator molded into it
 SW1 - original power switch  SW2 switch on side of cabinet

brown -------------- SW1 ------------ SW2 -----------------  brown pole 1

blue ----------------- SW1 ------------ SW2 ----------------- blue pole 2

I do want to have both switch working.  I want to be able to turn the internal switch off and lock the cabinet and not be able to turn the machine on.

So your saying to split up the circuit?

I was thinking..

BR1----SW1 (Terminal 1)
BR2----SW1 (Terminal 2)
Jumper to SW2 Terminal 1 (Terminal 3)
Jumper to SW2 Terminal 2 (Terminal 4)
BL1----SW2 (Terminal 3)
BL2----SW2 (Terminal 4)

BR (Brown wire)
BL (Blue wire)
SW (Switch)

-TheChad

Why not make this really easy.
Run you 110V from the wall outlet to the new switch on the side.
Then that switched power back to the machine 110V in

You might have to buy one new power cord and cut some ends off to wire to the new switch, but that's all.

Make it easy?  Why would I want to do that?  What fun is that?!

That's not a bad idea, but it's just as easy if not easier to hook it up the way I suggest..  It literally only takes 2 small jumper wires.  Probably easier than you way actually..

However, your way completely kills the power, where as my way keeps power to the machine, so the service port and light stay powered and I think doesn't wear down the battery?

-TheChad

The batteries are used any time the power is turned off
the only thing on with main switch off is a small 12V and 5V power supply in the AC Dist box which also houses the Communications board
the 12V powers the service lamp and the 5V is for the Comm board
I think the only reason they power up the comm board is to allow the fiber ports to still function even when machine is off. if they did not do that the comm link would be down to all machines as far as a SAS host is concerned (Ring topology)

Okay, so I connected the blue wires to the factory Internal switch, and the brown wires to the new external switch, then connected jumper wires from the external switch to the internal switch.

Brown 1 (Pole 1) -------------- SW1 Jumper (Pole 3) ------------> SW2 (Pole 1) ----------------  Blue 1 (Pole 3)

Brown 2 (Pole 2) -------------- SW1 Jumper (Pole 4) ------------> SW2 (Pole 2) ----------------- Blue 2 (Pole 4)

@ | @ - Pole 1 | Pole 2
@ | @ - Pole 3 | Pole 4

So it *Should* have made it so if either switch if off, the connection is broke and the machine shuts off, if both switches are on, the connection is made and the power turns on..

The second I flipped the switch, the breaker for the outlet tripped and internal breaker tripped.

I don't know what the issue is?   In theory it should have worked...  The origional switch as pictured above, was wired in this way...


***Edit***

I just re-read your previous post Foster you said blue is suppose to conect to blue and brown to brown?  (Seems weird?)

So your saying it should be connected like this: ??

Blue 1 (Pole 1) -------------- SW1 Jumper (Pole 3) ------------> SW2 (Pole 1) ----------------  Blue 2 (Pole 3)

Brown 1 (Pole 2) -------------- SW1 Jumper (Pole 4) ------------> SW2 (Pole 2) ----------------- Brown 2 (Pole 4)

@ | @ - Pole 1 | Pole 2
@ | @ - Pole 3 | Pole 4


Thanks,

-TheChad

yes blue to blue and brown to brown
you probably crossed the brown to blue

take a picture of your new switch so I can see how the terminals and switch action are oriented
in the original switch the terminals are oriented along the vertical so are the 2 poles

Think of a Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) as two Single Pole Single Throw (SPST)

Here's the pictures...

The factory internetl switch has the terminals vertical, the external switch hast them horizontal..

When you turn the factory switch on, it connects the top terminal with the bottom terminal on both sides, which connects the brown and blue, which makes since.

Same goes for the external swtich.  When you turn the switch on, it connects the top terminal with the bottom terminal..

So the way I posted above that I had it connected, should work, because it's effectively doing the same thing..

-TheChad

 :208-GI just figured it out...

Brown 1 (Pole 2 - SW1) -------- Blue 1 (Pole 4 - SW1)
Jumper 1 (Pole 1 - SW1) ------- Pole 3 - SW2
Jumper 2 (Pole 3 - SW1) ------- Pole 4 - SW2
Brown 2 (Pole 1 - SW2)
Blue 2 (Pole 2 - SW2)

@ | @ - Pole 1 | Pole 2
@ | @ - Pole 3 | Pole 4

Hopefully that makes since to more than just me!?

But all works great now!

My only thought/concern having it connected this way, is that one of the circuits is always connected, unless I have both switches off...  I don't know if that matters?  But with the origional internal switch both hot/neutral were either connected (On) or not (Off).

I've never connected 4-wire's before, I'm use to 2 wire, it's either connected or not... So I don't know what if anything is going to happen by having 1 of the 2 pairs connected...

Thanks for all the help..

-TheChad

if the new switch is a DPST
Double check that both poles are turning on and off (open and close)
I suspect that the short circuit you initially had may have damaged the added switch.
When the breaker in the machine tripped it may not have been quick enough to prevent damage to the switch
 

Foster,  I am going to try connecting it your way tonight..

Please forgive my questioning,  but I just don't see how that works...  Blue to blue and brown to brown..  You are connecting the hot to the hot and the nutral to the nutral, but then nothing connects the hot to the nutral..  Which is what makes the connection no?

I know that's how dc works any way..  I know I'm not real familiar with AC, im just trying to understand..

Thanks for all the help..

-TheChad

if you want to see what happens up close and personal what happens when you hook up a hot to a neutral wire, take your jumper cables and hook up one red to the positive on your battery and the go to the other end and grab the other red end and hook it to the negative. now multiply that result by 10 times more volts. your thinking would be correct if you were trying to hook up a light bulb or other electrical load. the switch is only there to open or close the current flow through the wire.

The Switch is fine.

I connected it as you advised, and it works perfectly!

Thanks again for all the help! K+

-TheChad

Ahh, that makes since..  Like I said before I'm use to DC, you always have a + & a -,  AC is a different world..

Thanks for the info!  K+

-TheChad

TheChad
AC sorta has a + and - but they call it hot and neutral and of course ground
Neutral is also a ground it gets tied to ground at the breaker box in your house