New Life Games Tech Forums

Hi all,

I just Finaly got my S+ working (after a few months)!
It took a working machine in order to figure out what was wrong,
I missed the heavy thing on the bottom of the board, some power
wires were going to or from that area, I didn't have it, untill now!
Nice golden cabinet and door with triple diamond, it's realy great!

I've installed Triple Diamond 5 Coin. But allready getting tired of putting
up coins in it. Is it possible to play on credits instead of each time inserting
5 coins in the machine? Can I do that with the val/set eprom?

Thanks in advance,

Jeroen

Hmm this is dumb, I found it myself ... considder this topic to be closed LOL

Good Job! :3- (But that was like you were talking to yourself, huh?) :96-


or should I say, Thinking out loud!

Nice work!  :3-  Oh...and thanks for sharing your thoughts! :97- :72- :97-

LOL, the problem was ... that my button said, cash out, but that is now my credit button!
This is a picture. Last problem is that my Coin Compartitor doesn't get power. Any ideas?

I have a few actually, but the number one reason that comes to mind is a bad ground wire somewhere in the harness going to the coin mech.
Also, I've never seen the word "Banknoten" on a dollar bill validator bezel.
What language is that? German?
I notice a wire hanging down there, can you take a picture of the insides for us?

That wire was part of (I assume) a managing system. (I found a GRIPS box with wiring, that I removed).
The wires were connected to the buttons, but those work without that connected (the red one) the
brown one is mandatory (buttons didn't work anymore when I disconnected that one). On the pictures
you can see that it finanly is connected to a green wire. I assume that is ground ?

Another pic
BTW When I close the door the bottom candle light is blinking, and the INSERT COIN light is on.
In test mode, the sensor below the coin compartitor is working, when I fake it with a coin directly in the
optics, it will get me an 2100 error (not sure it was 2100, but almost sure)

I can answer one of your questions at the moment.
The double green wires are grounds for the switches which goes on the bottom of the switches which I located with red circles.
The big question is : where are those double brown ones coming from? I see those are attached to the switches. Are the double brown wires coming from the main MPU harness or from something else?
The double green should be where the double browns are>>the double browns are homemade...somebody changed somethng in that machines wiring.

The error code "21" means there's a problem with the coin in optics...it may not be hooked up. Shoot me picture of the coin mech and wiring. The code should be "21" BTW,  not "2100"

Can I upload video's as well on NLG ? That would be much easier!

I upload videos to "youtube" then I drag the link to NLG posts...neither way is easy.

It's just that I think someone added those double brown wires for some reason...my S+ uses the double greens for switch grounds.
Check and see if there's double blues...double blue wires would be for the switches' light bulbs ground.
If not, then that explains why there's double browns.

I checked, the brown wire is going to the pull handle!

I checked again, the brown and red come together (i guess) in the piece that I have photographed below

That's definitely not IGT's doing...somebody else did that...where are the dbl. reds going to?

Okay, I see now that someone attached the grounds to the handle form the swtiches via the dbl.browns with the dbl. reds. Why, I dont know because the handle is supposed to use a green and a green/yellow from the motherboard harness on the floor.

I bought it of ebay here in europe and it came from a austrian casino, like I said, I think it had some
kind of managing system, with many extra switches which I de-installed. I've made pictures from another
working cabinet so that I can redo it like it was originaly. (heck of a job!) all buttons, switches and even the
candle was connected to a little box with many (like 20 metres) extra cables.

For now, I don't get any juice on the coin compartor, does that come thru the MPU board? or the CPU board?

The picture below show's the GRIPS box I de-installed, flat cables, created from wires all through the cabinet,
were connected to the top of the box.

It works now, but the coin compartitor (CC-16) green led is still OFF.
Is this normal? I switched coin compartitors, and both no green light!
But the main thing, it takes coins now !

I'll bet!
Whoever installed that GRIPS box used different imput signals from all over the machine to make it work...in the process, screwed up the original IGT wiring.
The coin mech gets its power from the harness on the door running back to the top of the case holding the MPU board.
For your information, the big vertical board is the MPU board, the smaller, flat board on the floor of the case is the motherboard.
A "CPU" stands for "Central Proccessing Unit"...it's normally the main chip in your home computer/desktop.

Check the harness going into the coin comparitor,
Check the two grey wires coming out of the top of it,
Check all the wires in that area...the coin mech was taking 5 coins at a time time before...you did something when playing in the area around the switches and somehow jarred a wire loose perhaps?

The green light only comes on when the door is closed....whatever you moved is the problem wire...

If it's accepting coins through the comparator, it's working!  Try a different coin -- if it gets rejected to the tray, it's working.

As stayouttadabunker said, the comparator is not powered when the machine thinks the door is open, so short of screwing around with the optics or climbing inside the machine and closing the door (ha!), you'll never see that light on.

Make sure the adjustment on the coin comparator is all the way ccw, and if you want to check the operation with the door open, you can make a test harness very easy, and then you will see the light come on and observe much more.     

I always just open the front belly glass door and fish the wiring through the front. Remove the coin comparator with the bracket (2 screws) and hook it back up to the wiring outside that front drop down door. Close the main door and you can hold the comparator in your hand while you drop in coins.

That's an old telco connector!  :5- :97- :97- :97- :97-

I asked a friend if he would check for the green led of the CC, he said it was on LOL, that would have saved me loads of time.
Last issues, the bottom light of the candle blinks when in operation. (door =  closed) is this an indicator for an error? And my
handle switch doesn't work, but it locks an clears the handle, so I think this is a switch issue.

Thanks to you all for your help!

The bottom light should blink after the door has been opened and shut, until the first paid game is completed.  Is it still blinking after you've played a game?

There's 4 connections to a handle....2 are for the solenoid that releases the handle (we know that works)
The other 2 are for the when the handle comes all the way down and closes the circuit to play your credits.
I think one wire is solid green while the other is green/yellow stripe and goes to the switch for the handle.
Connect those two to the handle switch and your handle should be in business!

Thanks stayouttadabunker, will look into that!
knagl, you're right after the first play, both lights are off, so that's no issue anymore for me.
Learnt a lot this weekend LOL

Go to this link for handle repairs>>>


http://www.newlifegames.net/faq1/faq.php?answer=22&cat_name=IGT%20S%20%20How%20To%20Tips%20and%20General%20Repair&category_id=9#22 (http://www.newlifegames.net/faq1/faq.php?answer=22&cat_name=IGT%20S%20%20How%20To%20Tips%20and%20General%20Repair&category_id=9#22)

according to your reply #6  picture it looks like the wires are there, hopefully they are both hooked up!!   You are in a bad position, its extremely difficult to get  to that switch,even to do a visual to see what is what.  What typically happens  to the switch , its bad  or the actuating arm is smashed down to far for the handle mech. to activate it.  You can listen to see if the switch is being activated by ,  turn power off, hold solenoid arm up so you can pull handle ,then as you near the end of stroke you should hear the switch being activated, a small clicking noise. If the arm is smashed down, you can reshape it ,however there is a reason that it happened,it usually means something is allowing the handle to travel to far down.   If you really want to fix this problem  there are holes in the handle so you can insert a screwdriver and remove the two screws to remove the switch, putting it back is a little challenging. I usually remove the bill acceptor housing so I can get to it. BUT THEN AGAIN  THAT'S  ME,  maybe someone else has a better way????  Or you can remove the handle assembly, but that has draw backs as well.  It all depends how bad you want that feature to work.

Jim

I saw once someone removing the reel tray and attacking the switch from the left side....However, I agree that removing the DBV box is the best way to get at it the handle switch....IF you have the right tools, you can remove the handle without taking the DBV off...it IS a challenge though. :88-