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I recently picked up a Double Double Diamonds from a private sale. The seller told me when he bought the machine, the bill acceptor worked. He thought it maybe blew a fuse.
It wont light up the $5-$100 light on the front of the machine and wont even attempt to pull the bill in.
I did install the set chip and confirmed the bill acceptor is turned on ( 9-1)
I know its getting power because there are 2 LED's lit up on the right hand side and the read heads are lit.
There is one connector (of the 3) coming off the bill validator that is not plugged into anything. I cant find a match. Maybe this is normal (or a future option?) - see picture.
I think one issue I have is there are 2 sensor type of fingers that come down in the bill transporter that are locked into place. There would be no way a bill could pass. (look at the picture)
I can push a little lever above and make them retract, but they wont stay. They come back down and lock into place.
This may not be whats wrong with my bill validator. Its obvious these parts are intended to retract at a certain point of the bill load. Anyone have any ideas to try?

what manufacturer and model is your machine?  based on your theme i'm guessing IGT, if that's the case then you need a WBA12 to "speak" netplex.  did you check the dip switches on the side of the transport?  they should be all up.

btw:  the 3 pin plug that you have hanging empty is normal.  i'm still thinking your issue is that you need a 12ss transport instead of the 13ss.  or it could be possible that you could get an eprom with the 12ss program on it and make the 13ss function as a 12ss.  don't know if this will work, but we have done the opposite, put a 13ss program on a 12ss transport, and it has worked.  :3-  sorry if all that is a bit confusing.... :103-

edit:  the fingers that are locked in place are part of the anti cheating protection, they're called solinoid levers  :89-

Did S+'s ever have WBAs?  If so, and if he has a S+, that wouldn't use netplex at all.  :71-

Please do post the model of your machine, or a picture of the entire front of it.  Thanks, and welcome to NLG.

Yes, S+ did use WBA's in later years, (11's then were converted to 13's) the game he has pictured is a S+ as it has the external power supply, and Kevin is correct no Netplex on the S+, he needs ID 022/023, there is no difference in the software for WBA 12 or 13, just the way it is stored, a 13 will work perfect, but there is a problem, first check the cash box door and see if there is a micro switch on it and wired or if the wires have been put together, if there is a switch make sure the door is closed and the switch is not broken, and that the cash box is pushed all the way in, next thing would be to see what software is in the WBA

I have a S+ with a WBA 11.

Does the BV make a "grinding" noise when power is applied ??

Let me first say, thank you to everyone who has been trying to help me resolve this. You guys are great!
I wasnt sure if that microswitch in the front of the cash box was good, so I wrapped the wires together. In the back of the cash box, there is a white switch, but on the back of the cash box there is nothing plugged into that plug. Should there be?
It makes a slight ticking sound when power is applied. If I tape the solinoid levers up in place, it will make that grinding sound one of you were describing for a few seconds.
Kforman, should the solinoid levers be locked in place as these are?

Also, I found a cut wire in the machine. I will post a pic of it in the next post. It doesnt seem to match anything in this machine.  Its a 5 conductor connector with the number 900001A on it.

Pic one is the cut wire I found
Pic 2 is diffrent view of bill acceptor

Pic 1 is the connector on the back of the unit that connects to the power supply.
Pic 2 / 3 shows the switch in the inside of the back of the bill box. On the back side of that switch connector (seen in the insert) has nothing connected to it.
I cant find any loose wires nor where it should be plugged into.

2 Last Pics
1st is the dip switches
second is the machine in question
(you have to love paint programs for the 6565!) LOL

I can see your machine is in working order even with the BV in out of order state..... so it's not an open door.  That's for sure!!!  Discard door switches.

The two leds on BV start says the software loaded OK from that black eprom memory, so it's not a bad EPROM.  (i assume the two leds turn on in this order:  one of them light up at first and stay ON.  Then the other one light up and stays ON also with two leds in solid ON at the end right??  If yes then no problems with software EPROM)

In your case, I would see if the BV does any kind of sound after power is applied.  Does the motors run at any time????  How many "runs" do you hear from the motors when you apply power to the BV???

The anti-cheat lever that you are referring to seams to be OK.  It comes back to "locked" position because it was meant to be like that.  It has a spring inside that make it stay locked, and the solenoid secures the lock position at some point of the acceptance to avoid cheating with bills (pull it after accepted for instance)

Tell us if you hear motors running at all after power, then I can guide you to do a troubleshot.

Regards!

Hi  SAT,
  The first led light (closest to the dip switches does come on when power is applied. Then a couple of seconds later, the second comes on as well. But goes out in 1 sec and comes back on in one second.
I hear a slight clicking sound as the LED light goes out.
No motors running at any time.

looks like someone answered the question directed at me before i could get back to you!!  thanks Gandhi.

the wire harness looks like it may be something from a player tracking system that was installed when the game was in a casino.  you shouldn't need to worry about it.

i know this sounds kinda silly but do you have a cashbox installed?  the cherry switch behind the cashbox is to let the player tracking system know when the cashbox has been removed if necessary in the particular jurisdiction.

kforeman,
 Yes, the cash box is installed, but as I mentioned (and posted a picture of) there is nothing connected to that switch in the back of the cash box.
This cherry switch connector is located below the reset switch on the back of the power switch.
Take a look at the pic and you will see what I mean.
I dont see anything that plugs or loose wires that plug into this switch. Where does it connect on your machines?

it doesn't have to be connected unless required in your jurisdiction, for home owner it's not an issue.  as Gandhi stated you do not have a switch issue because your game is playable.  if there was an open switch you would not be able to play until it was closed.
i would suspect that maybe you have a bad bv head, do you have a known good spare?  or maybe another machine that you can swap bv's with?

I don't. I am just a newbie at this and bought this machine from a personal sale.
If I had a read head problem, wouldn't the machine attempt to pull the bill in though? I mean, I get no self test from the motors and the bill indicator light in the front doesn't light up.
Where should the back of that cherry switch be plugged into though? Anyone have a wiring diagram in .pdf

In this pic, what is the name of that board and should there be something connected to where I hi-lited?
If you notice, someone before tapped onto another wire with a connector. Then theres another one tapped in above the game board, but neither are connected.

two possible problems:

1- a mechanic failure that impede the motors to run normally and eventually "shut down" the supply for a second while the BV tries to run the blocked motor (remember motor powered not moving = short-circuit)

2.-you have a defective EPROM that isn't allowing the BV initialize normally.

Let's be sure there is no blocked motors in your BV (do exactly what I'm going to tell you):

WITH YOUR SLOT MACHINE TURNED ON

1- get a flat screw driver or something small enough to flip the dip switches in your BV.

2- take the BV out for a second, turn the switch number 8 to ON position (DOWN) and leave the rest in OFF position (UP)

3- insert the BV in your machine and wait for leds to stay solid ON.  When they get solid ON your vessel installed in machines door should be flashing indicating the BV is in test mode.

4- with your BV installed in test mode (vessel flashing), turn dip switch 1 to ON position, then turn dip switch 8 to OFF position.  See what happens.  At that point the transport motor should be running smoothly and constant.

Then repit the whole process starting from the beginning,  but flip the switch number 3 instead of 1 in step 4 to see what happens with stacker motor.

Post the results here to find out.

(NOTE: if you don;t get your vessel flashing is because your BV isn't in test mode caused by a problematic EPROM)

Listen very closely where the ticking noise is coming from, put your ear up to the power supply  that is mounted on the side of the cashbox housing, if its coming from there  the power supply is bad. A sure sign of a bad switching power supply is the "chirping" noise. Its more than likely a PHIHONG  brand PS.  +13volts @3 amp.  

The red goop coming from you handle mech is the handle dampner melted,,you should see your handle fly back and bounce forward a little, also on the first pull its a little tough to  pull down.  

Take that switch off, two screws and the whole housing will come off.   you don't need it.

Jim

Mate, wires are the last to check!!!  don't get crazy around wires because that's what you're going to make: GET CRAZY!! 


and for last time I'll tell you:  forget about that cherry switch!!!!!!

Hi Jim,
  I just listened real close. The click in coming from the bv.
How did you know there was red goop coming off the handle? LOL There is!
I am about to try what SAT said.

And the wires you circled in the pic are for the player tracking, the board they plug into on the bottom of the machine is known as the motherboard, you can pull the plug you circled out, it is not needed for your game to function

SAT,
 thanks for this troubleshooting.
For the first time, I did indeed see the vessel flashing and 2 solid leds.
Then when I did the next step, the transport motor ran.
Now here comes the issue.
When I did switch 3, one of the led's go out and I get that clicking sound.
I pulled the read head alone but left the transport in. Both LEDs come on.
When I put the read head back in, it sounds like its trying to spin, but sounds bound up.
Does it need lubing somewhere? Dry belt? Gear?

OK, i forgot to tell you to pull out the staker to make the test...  did you have your stacker out???

If you did, then it's the mechanism that moves the stacker motor, or the motor itself that is burned out (all this inside the BV).

If you did not, then it could be what I just said, or the stacker mechanism (inside the stacker) that is blocked not allowing your BV to move it.

Keep posting mate!!!!  I'll stay online for a while ;)

sorry I didn't read it complete... give me a sec

After looking at the pictures, you have over 6000 credits on the game, did it have that many credits on it when you got it?

The credits are fake. Photoshoped. The credits do add up normal.
In fact everything elce about the machine is perfect except the bv

i am stlll here SAT. If you want to take it off the board, email me directly. I feel like we are so close!
wishiwas@yahoo.com

I'm in the yahoo chat and just added you from andres_dandrea@yahoo.com  ....  start your chat client and click accept!

Yea, I noticed, there is no way to get a 65 win on that game and no win on payline, also does not look like the beak is on the bv in the pic with the door closed or has wrong beak

 :25- :25- :25- :25-


 :97- :97- :97-  you don't leave rocks unturned  :3- :3- :3- 

Nice one!!!

To further elaborate, the bare connectors on the motherboard in the section you circled are for a progressive connection (to a linked progressive controller) -- they're not necessary for your bill validator to be enabled.

At the end we concluded there is a mechanic problem in his WBA unit that is not allowing the normal run of the stacker motor.

We did test both motors.  Transport motor working OK.  Stacker motor not ok and shooting down leds.

He found some gears blocked and strange noises during tests.

Sent him the unit exploded in a PDF file as well as a JCM training program for he to have fun the next weekend.

"wishiwas":  remember to post here if you find the fault's reason for us to get some learning out of your issue!!! 

Best regars to all my NLG fellows!

I noticed on the picture of the head it said IDO 24. This is S2000 protocal. I wounder if the transport EPROM is for a S2000 as well ? I saw the software level was 3.00-041 on the transport chip.

The eprom as marked is for ID 023B not 022/23, I sent a message but didn't get a response so guess he got it figured out

Blueridge, what information are you looking for? I am a newbie, so bear with me. :)

Ok, here is the update.
I took the BV to work. I unplugged the motors from the board and sent power to them directly with a toy power supply.
The transport motor was running very poorly and was noisy as hell!
I oiled all the gears and right down the middle spindle of the motor. A few seconds later, the motor was quite and ran real smooth! I was so happy, I almost couldn't wait to get home.
I did the same for the stacker motor. This motor ran a little more quite but I oiled it and the gears as well.
I finally got home and ran the dipswitch tests with dip 1 first.
Well, it was bogged down again. I didn't bring home the oil, but I could tell the problem was in the acceptor head.
I pulled that out, and it ran nice and fast. I put the acceptor head back in and keep pushing the wheels there. It eventually ran a little smoother, but could use oil.
Now the big test, switch #3!
Well, dud! Nothing happened. The 2 led lights did stay solid, but the stacker motor did nothing.
I double checked I was plugged in and unplugged then replugged it in to be sure. Nothing happened when I re-ran the test.
Next I tried something crazy. I swapped motors. I took the gears etc from the stacker and put it on the transport.
The same thing happened.
One thing I forgot to mention, I am getting a slight smell now of burnt electronics. Once you smell that smell, you know what it is.
So at this point, I can only assume whatever part runs the stacker motor is dead. :(

You guys rock! I want to thank everyone for the great suggestions!

I'm sure Blueridgeslots can give you a hand finding the parts you need to fix your BV in case it's indeed burned somewhere....  or even better:  get a guaranteed replacement with working software etc etc,, from him!!

Regards

Without the correct version software you could have brand new hardware and the BV won't work in the game, my guess is someone bought the machine off ebay with the BV pulled due to the ebay BS policy of accepting currency, then bought a "will fit" BV off ebay for a bargain price and said "that other guy is way too high" then when put it in figured out the bargain wasn't a bargain, but my offer is still open, I have the correct head and transport, fully upgraded to the newest software available for your game, calibrated and tested, also have the correct beak as well, I have WBA-12 or 13 the 12 would be a bit cheaper, and a better deal as there is no further upgrade for the S+ than the new $10

Slots world is so complex that is usual to see this kind of situations...  Too many different details that make the diference.

At least people have sites like this to get some advice...