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I bought a Super Star Spin yesterday.  I played a few games and it worked fine.  The Speakers did have a bit a hiss so I put 47 ohm resistors in the speaker wires.  Since I had it all open I decided to vacuum and blow out some bugs and dirt while it was in the garage.  It was a real pain to get it so believe that the printer door was closed and finally it worked.  I played about 3 spins and it got stuck with a "general reel error" and "door open MB"  I spent all day poking at it.  I thought the optics might be the problem so I bypassed them by hooking the cabinet optic green wire to the door optic red wire though the cherry switch.  (Initially, I did tie the cabinet purple to the door green. It didn't work, I cut the wire purple to green connection).  Now the optic by pass does work and the machine acts just like it did with the optic connected. 

While just sitting there, the display acts like the door is being opened and closed.  It will say door open on the display and it clears it own errors since it thinks the door is being opened and closed.  It only thinks the door is closed for a few seconds at a time.  So if I let the machine sit, it is ready, door open, ready every few seconds.  If I spin it will get the general reel error since it thinks the door is being opened while the reels are spinning.   When it says "General Reel error" I turn the jack pot key and it is back to the ready, not ready cycle.  The Belly door is still hooked up, but the switch tests good.  The cash door has been bypassed the whole time. 

I am running out of bright ideas.  I have been sitting here watching it for about 15 minutes while writing this.  It finally stopped the ready, not ready cycle.  It stopped  "door open MB".  It seems to stack the door open MBs.  I pressed the cherry switch about 30 times (simulating the real door open/close cycle).  I couldn't get it ever be ready again.  The "door open"  pop up as fast as I could clear them.

Do you have any advice?

Check your cashbox and belly door switches and bypass both

They are bypassed.

Pull the MPU out and inspect all the traces that are under and next to the green battery for damage.

The green battery has a little corrosion on it.  Kinda like a little dust, but it is not leaking.  It has a charge of under 1 volt.  Does the charge matter?

Before I overload my butt anymore than I just did, which board do you have ?? If it's a enhanced board the battery needs charged. if a 502/504 board the battery needs to be removed.

Now when you bypassed the optics and connected those wires to the cheery switch you are assuming the cherry switch is good, why not try bypassing the cherry switch just to make sure Now if you trace the door optic wires from the optics to somewhere behind and sometimes below #1 reel you will find another plug, make sure it has a good connection..

I am not too sure which board it is.  I am thinking it is the advanced.  It is kind of a double decker with a smaller 1/2 size board on top and there is a sicker that says "Model 1952-2" on it.  I found the plug behind reel 1.  That is actually where I cut the wire to the door optic.  That connection is good.  I took the MPU board out to look at it.  After I put it back in, I cant get it to be "ready" any more.  I took out reel 4 to get to the cherry switch and just touch the wires together.  That didnt seem to make a difference and the switch tests good with an Ohm meter.   It is probably related to my pulling out the bonus reel, but I have added "reel 5 tilt" to my list of symptoms.  But I only reseated it twice and got the same errors.

Gene

I cant seem to post a pic. I think the image is too big.  Let me know if you really want to see it. I will try to sent it to you in a message.  Thank you very much for your help.  I am kinda of at a loss.

Gene

Turn of the power and pull the mpu . Look at the plugin ends on the board if they are the same size it is a enhanced board . If the plug in ends are a long and short size it is a series 500 board . If you need a pic I can post . P.B.        Note if the board plug in ends are the long and short remove the battery and save your self the problem that will eventually happen

Thanks, the plugs are long and short.  I think I will wait till I get my current problem resolved before adding an additional variable.  Unless the green battery having almost no juice could be part of my current issue.

Green battery is not needed . Just a aggravation

Pick one.  Top left 502, top right 504, lower left enhanced, lower right MM II sound board. Take note the two top ones the battery has been removed. Click on pic. to enlarge

Isn't the 500 series board the one that has the door optics board trace running right underneath the green battery? He's already stated the battery had leaked a bit, maybe trace damage?

Rob  I told him to check the traces in reply #3   I think I may have figured out the problem, Maybe,  at least this seems logical  The metal plate that holds the cherry in when the door is closed isn't pushing the cherry switch in far enough.

genebopp  You said you now have a reel tilt, this MUST be cleared before we can go any futher. To clear the reel tile the door latch must be opened and closed 3 or 4 times. By doing this one error and only one error at a time will be cleared. Here's the problem you have bypassed the optics so now must use the cherry switch to clear the errors. With the wires back on the cherry and #4 reel installed, push in on the cherry switch and hold it for a couple seconds, repeat this 3 or 4 times. At some point the reels should spin on boot up. If the reels do spin, pull out on the cherry switch  ( it will stay out and think the door is closed.  With the door ajar play the machine and see if it screws up. If every thing seems OK try bending the metal plate that pushes in the cherry switch, close door and see what happens.

Sorry Buzz, watching this on my phone and only reading most recent replies instead of all :30- I seem to do that occasionally

I got the machine to stay "ready" for a while this morning.  The first time it stayed "ready" I just sat back and watched it for a while.  It stayed "ready" for about 2 minutes before resuming the door open/ready cycle.  It happens so fast it kinda looked like a loose connection.  I reseated all the molex connectors I could find near the back of the cabnet.  When I powered it up again I got "ready" for a less than 5 minutes before the door open MB cycle stated again.  This time I let it sit cycling for a while.  Eventually it stayed ready for a while.  While it was ready I pull and wiggled on everything i could find.  The machine stayed ready.  I watched with out touching the machine for a 10-15 minutes before it started the door open cycle.  I pulled the MPU board to get info.  When I put it back the machine stayed "ready" for a long time.  I got brave and started playing it with the door open.  I spun abut 10- times perfectly.  I knew it was getting low on credits and left the room for my wallet.  When I came back it had the door open MB message.  Here is a list of my observations.  Once the machine is ready it will play, take dollars what ever you want.  If the door error happens while i am playing i get the general reel error.  It doesn't matter if the machine is sitting by itself or playing or having me wiggle wires.  Nothing seems to make a difference.  It just happens when it wants.

My board looks like the 2 boards on the right in your picture.

I really cant thank you enough for helping me chase this thing down.

Gene
You can email me if it is easier.  genebopp@gmail.com

If the game is experiencing same problems when played with door open, we can eliminate the cherry switch...

You may have damaged traces on your board from the green battery. They damage is not always visually OBVIOUS.

I know it seems strange, to remove something from the board, however, the green battery serves NO PURPOSE on a 500 series board (which you have), when it's outside a casino, EXCEPT to corrode the traces underneath it! Take some cutters and snip it off. Clean up the board Best you can (I forget Bunkers trick to remove the acid, maybe he'll chime in, I think it's baking soda). Put board back in and see where you get. Your problem CANNOT get worse with the removal of the battery.

Roz

Roz  It is baking soda, but Pepsi or Coke Cola work just as good or better.

Just like cleaning a toilet!  :72-   

Gee...I hope I never have to use the pot at your house!   :200-  (just kidding!)

About the same, I use my Wife's tooth brush

Huh, and I thought I was the only one who used their spouses toothbrush to clean toilets! Ha! Well, I should say my goodbyes, as I may not be posting anymore after Darrell reads this one!  :72-

It works but I don't think I am out of the woods completely.  It looked like my next step was to buy a new board.  I figured mine was garbage.  I might as well be sure.  I removed the green battery and found that there wasn't really leakage, but there was white Pre-leakage under the battery.  I used a tiny wire brush and removed the white dust and wiped it with alcohol.   I put the machine back together and it has powered up correctly 2 out of 3 times.  One might have been my fault.  I still figure that a new MPU board is in my future.  Mine is called super step controller, P# 75510504 rev b.  Should I start looking for just that part number or are there others that will work.

Thanks again for your help guys!

 :291- Glad you got it!


P/N 7551501, 7551502, and 7551504 are all interchangeable. They are all the same part and will all work for you. A lot of people like the 7551504 best, as they say it gives a cleaner sound. Funny thing is, you had a "hiss" in your speakers, so to each his own I guess.... :103- 

Roz