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Hello everyone. I recently had given to me 3 IGT slot machines from an uncle who passed away.  They were in his basement when it flooded but didn't go under water. They also got stored in his sons garage for a number of years after that.  They probably have a lot of problems but on initial startup, 2 of them gave me the error 12 and one gave me an error 61. 
So first of all, I decided to just go ahead and buy 3 new batteries.  The ones on the boards looked ancient.

While I am currently waiting for my batteries to install, I wanted to first confirm that I have IGT S or S+ slot machines.
They are all IGT machines and they look to have a lot of interchangeable slots.  But they are 3 different sizes and have minor differences between them all.

I have 1 Double Diamond Date on it says 2/1990
I have one Wild Cherry Date 4/1994
I have one Sizzling 7 Date 5/1993

Is there any place they will say if they are definatetly S or S+?

One example of the differences is the Wild cherry does not have an internal power switch that I can find.
The Double diamond has a switch at the bottom inside.
The sizzling 7 has a switch inside and in the upper section of hopper area with the reset button Ive read about.

Anyways, one step at a time I guess. First, I just want to make sure I am calling them the correct names.

thanks
jim

Here are the pictures of the three slot machines if it helps.

Number 3!

The first and third are S+, the middle one looks like an S and doesn't have an embedded DV but I could be wrong on that one. Don't remember when they switched and what the key differences were back then. Could be a very early S+

Double Diamond looks to be an S, with the plate inserted in the button deck.  Wild Cherry and Sizzling 7s are S+. Just my thoughts...

One and Three Def S-plus...#2 we would have to have a picture of the inside lower cabinet and the main MPU board to be sure, looks like a "S" to me but could be an early non embedded s-plus

I dunno....look at the button deck on #1...didn't some PE+ and S machines have that plate that the buttons sit on?

I'm with the others -- if the original poster can post a picture of the inside of the Double Diamond machine, near the hopper area, we can determine for sure if that's an S or an S+.

Did a little more looking. I found all 3 have power switches. The double diamond switch is on the bottom of cabinet and its reset is on the mpu. The mpu is on it, Is located on left side of cabinet instead of back.
All three are currently using tokens that are quarter size but the DD has a coin denominator. I believe this makes it easier to switch back to quarters.
All three mpus look identical to my untrained eye. I'll have a picture of them up tonight with chip information.
If one is a S model, is that a bad thing?
Here is picture of DD.

The Double Diamond is an early S-Plus model.

all three of the machines are S+.  the double diamond appears to be an intermediate cabinet.  I would go ahead and try to get them up and running before you attempt to replace batteries etc.

the fact that they come on and give error codes is a good thing.

after you get them running then you could replace the batteries if you feel inclined too.  I have seen batteries last up to 10+ years on those machines.

If its not broke, why fix it.

Jim

Looks like a pe+ with reels to me

I did turn them on. Everything lit up but two gave the 12 error and one gave the 61 code.  I know the machines have sat for 6+ years. So I figured I should do batteries on them all.

in your first reply you stated a code 21 on two of the machines.  big difference, 21 is a coin in  error,  12 is battery error,   machine won't do anything  with a 12 error until you replace the battery.


Jim

PE+ are all Video, even if slot not poker........ so there is no such thing as a PE+ with Reels, the posts above are correct that is a Non Imbedded S+ Intermediate

Ahh, Thanks. I dont know I did that. Yes that is a big difference. I edited the original to fix that.

Some more information Ive dug up.
The chips I can read on each  board are the follows:
DOuble Diamond    Reel SS3442    GameProm SP731
Wild Cherry            Reel SS712     GameProm SP731
Sizzling 7                Chips have no stickers on them

I attached a picture of the Sizzling 7. They all look similar to this one but with stickers on the chips.

jim

Here's a tip, don't let those Sizzling 7's chips see daylight. UV rays erase them. You need to put some kind of tape or sticker over those little round windows on them to protect them

Thanks, I did notice they had little windows on them. I will cover them up with tape tonight.
Do I need to protect just thereel and game prom chip only?
Is there a way to find out what number should go on those if I get the system working ?

I get my batteries tomorrow night. Kinda excited to see what happens when I add them.

You need to protect any with those windows exposed

Well the series of chips you have SS would indicate that all your machines are S+ and not just S.
The older S models took RS series of chips.

With respect to finding out what your siziling 7's are - thats a fairly easy task.
If you click on Ricks Faq (at the top of the page) there is a FAQ that steps you through identifing what your reel and game chips are.
The numbers get displayed on the winner paid windows.

While you are in the FAQ - you can also check out the IGT game bible - this basically lists out all the themes that you can convert your machine into just by changing the glass, reel and chips. Each theme can have different %% payouts so by knowing the chips from your earlier post you can get the payout percentages your machine.

I started plugging in the batteries to these poor slot machines I am trying to recooperiate.
None of them came back to life perfectly, but no suprise.
I going to mostly focus on the Double Diamond First.
The bottom lamp on top is flashing what I guess is fast.
The reels move i think 3 times and than I see the error code of 43.
I assume this means, from what I read, that the reel 3 has a problem.
Is the 3rd reel the one on the right if you are facing the slot machine?
My hope is it a connection problem or sensor problem.
ANy suggestions on how I fix this problem?


thanks
DOuble Diamond challenge 1!

Or it means something rubbed up against the wheel.
If the error doesn't clear remove the reel and move it to another position.
If the error moves with the reel then you have a problem.

You can swap reels between machines.

To clear a reel tilt error (41,42,43) - according to the manual:

Open the door,  turn the jackpot reset key close the door.

On occasion I have found this doesn't work the first time.

So.....
Open the door, press the white button once, close the door   |This puts the computer into setup mode and then back to normal with the close of the door.
Open the door,  turn the jackpot reset key close the door.    |This is the clear procedure, but it works better after having come out of setup.

I have heard some people have had to resort to a clear chip but I never have.

I switched out the reel to another position and the error folowed so I put in a reel from wild cherry and it worked!
Next error:
It worked and I won 160 coins. I got cocky and tried to cash out.
All I heard was a hum from the hopper 2x and now it wont accept coins.

I have two total hoppers for the three machines so I tried to put the other one in to see if the hopper was bad.  But it wouldn't fit. It kept on hitting on something. 
I noticed on the plug in the machine that their are 6 plug in spots and a bar.
On the other machines this bar is on the hopper but on this machine it is on the outlet.  I am wondering if this is normal for the older double diamond or if the rod pulled out of the broken current hopper and got stuck in the slot outlet.

Because the other hopper has the rod on it, it will not plug in due to the rods hitting eachother.
Here is a picture to make my explanation clearer.
Is this rod suppose to be in the outlet, hopper or both?

thanks

Keep an eye on that winner paid bar - there is a light that flashes insert coins when it is ready to  accept.
I would presume this is off.
Open the door press the white button close the door.
I would presume this is now back on and the error cleared.

I can't comment on the style of hopper a mine are all interchangeable.

It does however sound like it is jammed.

If you try and move the hopper wheel it should be solid (no movement)
On the back of the hopper you will see a small leaver or pivot that is on a spring.
If you move/press this, the wheel should be able to move. This is called the hopper brake.

Basically on payout the hopper runs until the correct amount of coins pass the optic. The brake then kicks in and the hopper stops paying.
When the spring goes missing you get errors as the hopper pays out more than expected as the motor monteum passes more coins past the optic. On the opposite end of the scale. If there were no coins in the hopper it will run like you described and then shut down.

This can also occur when the hopper is jammed. Or perhaps the wheel in the hopper does not match the coin. Ie dollar wheel being used with quarters. As noted earlier usually the hoppers are interchangeable so who know what hopper you have in.

When doing the manual turn test make sure it picks up the coins and carries them up and rolling off the end of the hopper knife.

A common problem is a bad hopper knife. These are a plastic composite and they do get bent with age. When this happens you get coins stuck behind the knife. Again you should be able to observe this when you do the manual turn test.

I had one that was really stuck - I took off the wheel and all sorts of paper was stuck behind the wheel along with a ton of other crud from 20+ years of casino life. Frankly pretty gross but once I put it back together it ran like a charm.

I went through the process. The wheels spin just like after a restart and stop.
Than it flashes 3 things on the screen.
Winner paid says 3300 (hopper empty)
credits show the 158 I still have when I won and tried to cash out
Coins played flashes 2

After the wheels spin there is a 7 second hum than a 1 second hum.
The hum is coming from the hopper at qhat I figure is part of the hopper brake.  The brake is moving into the assembly when it is humming.
I tried to move a different hopper from my other slot machine and they dont match. 

Apparently not all hoppers are completetly interchangeable.
I have a picture of what I consider the hopper brake lever and a picture of the two types of hopper outlets.

I also tried to move the hopper with and without the brake on.  Both times, the coin wheel moves just a little bit back and frourth. I assumed its the coin wheel that I was spposed to move.
I tried both hoppers and they responded the same way.

The hoppers look a little beat up but I was suprised they dont move. Is there a guide on how to rebuild or do maintenance on hoppers?

thasnks
jim

I slowly took the apart what aI could ont he hopper and it was pretty messy but probably still functional.
What I did notice is after I took a lot of parts off, I still tried to spin the hopper and with the lock off it won't turn. 
I tried this by grabbing the wheel(disc)  pictured and turning while the plastic lock was not engaged in the back (i beleive its blue or red).
The disc turns back and forth just a little bit but you can see it is just wiggling.  It is stopping where its axle connects to the motor at the cotter pin.  Past the cotter pin the motor portion is moving much at all.
Does this mean the motor is locked up?
My other hopper is doing the exact same thing. :(

With the brake released the wheel can be turned. It's not free flowing by any means. There is a heavy motor feel.
Have you cleared the 3300 and tried it in the machine .
I will find  some documentation on the test screens. This will allow you to run he hopper with the door open.

I forgot to add the pictures.
The 3300 would not clear for me.  I assumed it comes up because the hopper isn't working and its not seeing any coins come out.  THis would be because the hopper is moving at all.

EDIT- I now have removed the brake assembly piece. This is held down by 2 long screws.  I can easily turn the shaft on this part of the mechamism.  Its from the other side , right where the the cotter pin goes into what kinda feels like a transmission that still wont move.

I have both an older style S+ Double Diamond and a newer S+ sizzling 7s with hoppers with the same problem.
When the machine tries to pay out, I heard a hum from the hopper for about 5 seconds a pause than a 1 second hum.
The wheel on the hopper never spins.  The only motion I do see is where the lever is moved to unlock the hopper plastic lock on the rear portion of the hopper.
I was told I could manually try to move the coin wheel while making sure the plastic motor lock is off. When I do this the wheel doesnt move on either one either.

Is there a way to test if first the wheel is functional without power?
Could it not be turning do to some lack of power?
Is it possible to have a hopper wheel with this kind of problem be rebuilt and would it be cheaper than looking for one online?


I made a little youtube video of me trying to manually move the hopper wheel as explained to me to test it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMWcWF3gNuA&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMWcWF3gNuA&feature=youtu.be)

thanks for any help

Looking at your video, a couple of things stand out to me:

1. You're not turning the wheel nearly hard enough.  Even with the brake released, it still takes a pretty firm turn of the motor to get it going -- it's not nearly as free-wheeling as I think you're expecting it to be, based on how you were demonstrating that it wouldn't turn.

2. I believe you're missing parts from your hopper -- I don't see the wheel that would actually pick up coins when the hopper motor spins.  Your description of, "After the wheels spin there is a 7 second hum than a 1 second hum", sounds like the machine is spinning the hopper motor, detecting that no coins have passed by the coin-out optic, trying again for a second, and then giving you the hopper error message (all normal when the machine doesn't detect any coins exiting the machine).

stayouttadabunker once posted a nice video showing how a hopper works outside of the machine (using a modified extension cord as the power supply), but it looks like he might have pulled that video from YouTube.  Anyone else concur that xpoc454's hopper is missing one or more wheels?

I did remove the front parts of the hopper. This would include the agitator, and a couple of discs and the plastic holding area for the coins.
I did this to see if I could figure out something jamming and narrow down where the hopper stops moving at.  When I tested the hopper in the machine (along with my other hopper), it was put all together.
I have even put the intact hopper in the machine and right before the humming occurs, reach my hand in from underneath and unlock the motor.  It still doesnt move.  The motor on both hoppers I have have never moved in the machine, they are both humming.  I feel the slot thinks it actually turning the wheel and than stops because it is not seeing coins go by. 

I have narrowed down where the system stops moving. It seems to stop in what I have read as the gear box. The motor turns by the lock and the coin wheel wiggles until it meets the cotter pin that links it to the gear box.

I also tried to force the motion of the wheel with it unlocked.  I figured if maybe the gear box is just slightly locked up I may be able to jar it loose.  I put a screwdrive on the coin wheel and tapped the screw driver with a hammer. Not hard enough to risk breaking something but hard enough to break it lose. I got no movement.

If the setup is supposed to move, I cant belive that both of the ones given to me have the exact same problem. 

Here you go!  :71-
I found it for ya!!
Here's the link to it!...>>>

http://youtu.be/qsea8ltUwWk (http://youtu.be/qsea8ltUwWk)

I tried the out of machine trick and found out something about my 2 hoppers.
Plugging power directly to my double diamond older S+ machine's hopper made the hopper work.
Plugging power directly to my normal sizzling 7s hopper and just get a hum. You can see the motor trying to turn but stopping.

I assume this tells me that something is still wrong with the sizzling 7 hopper and something is wrong with the double diamond getting power to the hopper?

Since I am trying to focus on one machine (sizzling 7s), is there any reason anyone can think of that I shouldnt be able to remove the early double diamond hopper plug and replace it with the newer style sizzling 7s hopper plug?
If you look at my earlier picture posted, these hoppers look identical except for the outlets are slightly different. When I say outlet, I mean where you connect them to the machine.

The difference bewtween the two is a rod on the outlet is either an inny or an outty.  Plus the newer style outlet has some wires connected to it from the side.

So anyway, anyone see any problem with this hopper conversion?

thanks
jim

There should not be an issue in moving the hoppers and its plugs.
Nothing changed in the machine specs. The manual is the manual.

For the stuck one - check to make sure the brake isn't engaged.
Do you see the brake solinoid moving at the back ?

In an unpowered state the spring pulls the brake back and when power is applied the solinoid pushes it out.

The first one is up and working with the changed over plug.  The only problem I have now is it seems to get stuck occasionally and give a 3300 error.
How much will a bad aggitator effect this jamming? The one on this is almost down to nothing but a piece barely held on by the screws. Its comocally bad.

The second one, the arm does move and I also manually pull the lock off the motor. It just sits there and hums.

Next step is to try to figure out why the pulling arm doesnt work and see why there is no music when the wheels spin.  I assume it has something to do with the clear chip.

My chips on my board lost thier labels at some point before I got it.
I did the check to see what chips I have on my board and this is what I get.

Winner paid flashes between 3355 and 0
Credits says 0731

I tried to look this up in ricks slot bible and sisnt see sizzling 7s where I thought it would be located.

Anyone have any ideas or did I just miss it?

thanks

The no music is pretty easy thats just turning on reel sounds. It would have disappeared after using a clear.
I will send you some setup files under separate cover to your email addy.
:172-

You were looking in the wrong place, but it's also not there.

Your SS3355 is the correct chip for a 2-coin Sizzling 7s game, but it's not a 2 coin multiplier (CM) game -- it's a 2 coin buy-a-pay (BAP) game.  Unfortunately, there's a glitch in the bible and those 2c BAP games don't show up when you click on the link for them.

Three quick questions.

1. Is there a chance that my specific game does not have real sounds while it spins?
I cant figure out a way to turn them on through the self test mode.

2. Is there a way that the pull handle can be put in the locked position with the software?  The handle is not releasing to be pulled when money is in the machine?  I was wondering if the only way this could be happening is a mechanical issue in the arm.  The arm would release when I was trying to get out of the 61 loop but not after chip clear.

3. This poor sizzling 7 slot had 2 reels that gave reel tilt error. NUmber 1 and number 3.
To fix this problem I used reels from my other current non functioning slot machines and now they spin fine.  But now, once I put the reel strips back in with the strips up to the notches as mentioned in ricks FAQ, they dont line up when you have a winner.
The FAQ seems a little confusing to me. My 3 strips have the same pictures on them, just not in the same order or amount.
Do the reels have to be in a specific set order (not the strips).  SOme of my reels had numbers on them as stickers others had nothing where stickers have fell off.  I guess I am asking, do the reels placement make in difference or is it the plastic reel strips?

jim

No.  It can be changed either in the self test menus or by the DIP switches on the MPU board, depending on the SP chip in the machine.  (Older SP chips use DIP switch settings, newer ones use self test menu settings.)

Based on what you've previously posted, you have a SP731 chip in your machine.  According to the PSR for that chip, reel spin sounds are controlled by a DIP switch on the MPU board.  With the power OFF, remove the MPU board and flip DIP switch 3 to the "on" position.  That will give you reel spin sounds with the SP731.  (Note, some SP chips require the credits to be at zero before any DIP switch setting changes will take effect.  I don't see any note of that in the PSR for your SP chip, but I figured I'd mention it in case you don't get the reel spin sounds after changing DIP switch 3.)



On a typical SP chip, the handle will only unlock if you have either inserted at least one coin, or pressed the "Bet One Credit" button at least once when the machine is idle.  The handle is designed to then re-lock once the reels are spinning, and remain locked until a minimum of one credit has been wagered.  Is the handle not unlocking even after you have bet one or two coins (and before pressing the "Spin Reels" button)?



It's all about the reel strips, and not about the orange number stickers on the reel baskets.  You could have a machine with reels labeled "3", "3", and "3" -- so long as the reel strips are installed correctly and in the correct order, it will pay out correctly.

Your SS3355 game would be considered to have "ABB" strips.  That is, the first reel is one strip, and the second and third reels are a different (identical) strip.  Make sure you have installed your reels so that the unique strip is on the first (left-most) reel, and that the two strips that are identical are on reels 2 and 3.  If that is not the case now, simply unplug the reel baskets that need to be moved from underneath the reel shelf, and physically swap them out so that you have the correct configuration.

You said you put the strips "up to the notches" -- just to make sure we're on the same page, there are notches on the strips, and notches in the reel baskets.  You need to align the strips into the reel baskets by having the notches in the strips "click" into place into the notches in the reel baskets.  (To be clear, there's not a clicking sound per se, just that the strip notch gets held in place by the notch in the reel basket.)

(Barely worth mentioning, but there are such things as slant top reel baskets, which will not line up the strips properly in an upright machine.  Since you have only upright machines it's likely not the issue, but I figured I'd throw it out there.  Bunker posted some pictures in this thread (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=13334.msg114836#msg114836) showing the difference between the two.)

1. The dip switch effecting the sounds makes sense. I had put in another board  and got reel sounds.
It probably was set to on, on that board and not its correct board.

2. The pull used to release when I first got the machine and was fiddling with it. Now that I have got everything working, the handle will not release for a pull in any situation. I thought I had cleared it literally to a push button only mode.

3. The a b b order should make a big difference. I also was sliding the strips up to the reel notch, not placing reel notch and strip notch together. I'll try this out tonight also.

Part 1: I made success on the reel alignment tonight.


Part 2: The sound is a more complicated story.


Its kinda hard to tell how these dip switches work compared to what I am used to doing. The original setup of the board appeared to be first three off and next 5 on.

This seemed strange cause I be live it indicated setup for progressive stuff.  I put my wild cherry board into the sizzling 7s slot and it has reel sounds but not stopping sounds (opposite of the sizzling 7s),

I think this is exactly how it worked when I had the double diamond board also in the sizzling 7 slot (reel sounds no stopping)


So since the wild cherry board worked and the double diamond in the past I looked at their pin settings. They both appeared to be set up as first for on and second 4 off.  I mimicked this setting on the sizzling 7 and still only get stopping sounds and no reel sounds. 


I did notice with my clear chip came with instructions that mentioned pushing the reset button till I see a 5 1 on the read out and changing it to 5 0 for reel sounds.  That seemed to work with the wild cherry board but not the sizzling 7s.  Could there be something wrong with the sizzling 7 board or the sound chip ont he board?


Part 3:The pull lever issue.  I looked at the pull lever mechanisms. There is a pool of rock hard, amber ooze that appears to have come out of the mechanism.  The solenoid looks ok.  One thing I noticed is while messing with the wild cherry slot machine, if I push the reset button to go through the setup, some of pushes actually release the handle and than lock it back up.  You can actually hear and see it move on the wild cherry.  When I perform the same procedure on the sizzling 7s I get nothing.


Part 4: Reel tilt errors.  I am having reels drop like flies. I have a pool of 9 reels to work with in theory.  So far 4 of them have tilted and been put in the bad pile.  I have read that you can try to fix them by using a cue tip and rubbing alcohol on the optic portion.  Is that correct and if that doesn't work or they trash or rebuildable?

jim

For Part 2, I can't give an explanation until you can clarify if you're putting your Sizzling 7s chips into what you're calling the "Wild Cherry board" before you swap it into the machine, or if you're putting the Wild Cherry chips into the Sizzling 7s game and then getting different behavior.


As I mentioned previously, the SP chip that is on the board determines whether the board listens to DIP switch 3 (as your SP731 does), or if it uses the self-test menu to change the setting.  So, no, that procedure should not work on the SP731 chip because the reel sounds settings are determined by the DIP switch.  I think you're confusing the isssue by putting different boards with different SP chips into your machine, but I need you to clarify exactly what you're doing as I mentioned above.  For the record, you can either have reel spin sounds (with the solenoid clicking to simulate the stop sound), OR reel stop sounds only (no spin sounds) -- those are the only two choices on an S+ machine.


To be clear, ANY S+ board will work in your machine.  The SP and SS chips that are in the sockets on the board determine what game will be run by the board.


I've never had to repair a reel or handle solenoid, so I'll leave those topics to the other experts here to help you with that.

All 3 slot machines I have all have sp731 chips and obviously different reel chips.  So I was switching the intact board from wild cherry to the sizzling 7. Same for what I did with putting the double diamond board into the S7.  I thought this would be a quick way to check the sizzling 7.
If I did have some problem with the sizzling 7 board, could I literally pit the 7s reel chip on the cherry board and just put the board in?  I may swap also the handles from wild cherry to 7s as a quick fix also.  I want to get 1 slot to work than move next one.

are all three boards the same as pictured in REPLY #16  ?  If so  then you have all 10 meg boards with a volume control on the top of the board.  using the SP731  you can control the reel and stop sounds with the dip switches, 1-4 on, 5-8 off. done. 

you can swap the S7 reel chip into the WC board, you may have to clear a few error codes when first turned on using the self test button. 

the goop is from the shock absorber inside the handle assembly, you will notice when you pull the handle down and release it , it will fly back up and sometimes it will start to come back down and lock it that position.

the solenoid may look good but electronically BAD. make sure it is plugged in, there is a rectifier that goes bad on them, it would prevent it from being released and the action of the plunger being pulled in is what makes the reel stop noise. you can change the solenoid  without removing the handle assembly, it takes a little patience and some maneuvering but it can be done. beats trying to remove the whole assembly and not removing the bill acceptor cage.

since you are aware of the self test button you can go into the self test menus and test every switch, lite bulb, hopper, displays, reel functions, and all the audio tones this machine will generate.
if you can obtain a set of the flip card diagnostics, it will spell out every test and what number will be in what display.

Jim     
   

Ok. Has anyone ever have to sawzall thier pull lever off? I've removed the Allen screw and this thing won't budge.  I'm currently soaking it in pb blaster penetrate (best on the market) and it wont budge.  Does it pull straight  out or unscrew?  Anyone ever have one stuck in there?

It just comes straight out. Put the allen head bolt back in about half way then smack the head of it with a BFH.   

More problems solved thanks to the boards help.

Reel strips are correctly in place and working perfectly.

I switch the reel chips between sizzling 7 and wild cherry and put the wild cherry board in the sizzling 7 slot.  It now works perfectly.

I spent a few angry hours trying to remove the pull lever and now the bolt wont screw back in.  BUt even with a big hammer I could not get the pull handle to pull off.  So I looked inside and realized the solenoid takes 5 mins to remove. I switched it with the wild cherry solenoid.  It works perfect now.

The sizzling 7 is now working at a 100%. It still needs cleaned and needs a new agitator for the hopper and the DBV needs to be reconnected and up dated but other than that its working perfectly.

Next will be the double diamond once I get some parts I ordered to comone in on monday.

1 down 2 to go

thanks for the help so far!

jim

Is there a recommend place to order batteries for the IGT S & S+  ,  I have (3) games with the #12 error.   Kevin

Any of the vendors on the home page can help you.  :89-

Any of the vendors on our home page.
Just make sure you get the ones with the leads on them .
I was desperate one night before a party and got one from RadioShack without the leads.
A. Paid 3. X what I should.
B. you have to sand the heck out of the batteries and use a magnitude of flux to get anything to stick to the end of the battery.

FYI after visiting a local BATTERY STORE only !!! about 40 days ago -- this place had batteries that I never have imagined . when I spoke to the manager /owner of the 2000 square feet size store . I said where are your "arcade" slot/machine batteries located ?? he looked dumb founded ?? I took from my pocket the typical 1/2 size AA with two leads coming off it and one 1/2 AA with steel leads coming off it ..

he said we have never had anyone ask for these ever being in business two years at this spot ..
well we got to talking and I told him what I did for business part time etc what I paid for them on line from two sources CANADA & CHINA in quantity .
he then grabbed a 1/2 AA battery off the rack with NO LEADS ON THE ENDS said this is same battery from same maker  they sell here for 3.99 each being in a need for 3 of one design and 3 of another design --he said watch this --he then said  >>>don't ever solder to the end of a battery<<< or it may explode ..

yes I knew that but have done it for years when it needed to be done for lack of the correct battery at the time..

 as Jay mentioned above ..the store owner  took the leadless 1/2 AA and welded leads on them in seconds -then took the ones i needed 1/2 AA SIZE but with steel leads that come to a pin point for going back into the main board --he welded those on in seconds in his welding jig for batteries-- very interesting to watch .
then took the ones I said last the longest 10 years plus said he would start stocking them and give me a discount as much as he could -knowing that it was not a high volume item being sold .. I suggested he place a sign in store front window we stock "ARCADE" -SLOTMACHINE BATTERIES ETC he said he would try it once he got the order in --I stopped in this past Monday the 24Th he said since he put up the sign people have been asking for all types of design "arcade" slot batteries and thanked me for the tip .
so if in a bind there are other sources than radio shack or wall mart --best buy etc