Title: How the coin lockout coil works Post by: OldReno on April 02, 2013, 01:36:33 AM How the coin lockout coil works
There are probably about 7 or 8 switches in the coin lockout coil circuit, and while I don't have schematic handy, most of them are in series, except for a couple of them. So, when the coin lockout coil is off, the little bar of the paddle pokes through your coin acceptor, keeping the machine from taking any coins. Let's figure out when we DO want this coil off, and therefor unable to accept money. It should be off during reel spin. Probably a NC switch on the 'C' stack on your reel mech, that opens during spin. A series switch. It should be off during handle pull, which is your dashpot switch opening which is attached to your pump on the reel mech. A series switch. It should be off during pays, therefor a NC switch on the payout relay on the hopper. A series switch. It should be off during jackpots, otherwise you could coin off a jackpot pay. Probably one or two switches in the top unit, on relays labelled JP#1 and JP#2. Parallel switches, NC, open during jackpot. Note, there is a N.O. switch to the lockout, by the way, which overrides the JP switches above, or bypasses them. This is your jackpot reset key switch, on the side under the handle, another parallel switch, I believe, along with the two JP# ones. Of course, to bypass the jackpot reset switch, just open the door and push down the coin in switch. It still works, but the lockout coil is off, keeping a coin from hitting it. Your finger works just as well, and no JP key needed. And finally it should be off after you have inserted maximum coins, which is a little switch attached to your odds step up disc in the top unit. Of course you need a switch on your coin relay on the reel mech to overcome the max coin switch in the top from killing the machine forever. Two parallel switches. So, I count about 8 switches. The first one I generally check is the dashpot switch. You can do this from the outside of the machine if you have good ears. Wiggle the handle a little bit, and you should hear the lockout coil turning on and off. If your handle is out of adjustment, this is usually the bad switch. Or you can open the door and pull on the pump arm to check it. If the machine only takes 1 coin, and all others are rejected, then check your odds unit disc switch in the top unit. If it won't take any coins AFTER playing max odds, then it is probably your coin relay switch is staying open. Check this by pushing the coin in switch down one time, and then your lockout coil should start working after your odds reset and your handle drops. Yes, I know this is kind of a hazy post, but I hope to get you some idea of how the lockout works, and where some of the controlling switches are. A lot of times you can use process of elimination to eliminate the suspected problem switches which may not be problems after all. And you can always tell if your lockout coil is on, by pushing gently on the armature tab to see if you feel any resistance, or hear buzzing when you push it. (Also I forgot the coin in switch, which if it is pushed down, will probably kill power to the lockout, too. Sorry. That makes about 9 switches.) I don't know that this misc. information will do anyone any good, but there it is.... You can verify all these things by putting a little piece of paper in between the NC switch contacts in this circuit, one by one, and then play the game and see how that effects the operation. Something fun to do on a lazy afternoon. The coin lockout coil is a stand-alone circuit -- all it does is turn on and off the ability of the machine to accept coins. Like the Terminator, that's all it does. If anyone has an old 809 schematic handy and extra, please send me one. The 809 covers most basic circuits I believe, and it would help me to explain many other cool circuits. And, if I missed something here, or described something wrong, please chime in and enlighten us so that we can add your corrections to this thread. Thanks. OldReno |