New Life Games Tech Forums

Well here is where it started
I bought a s plus double diamond and it had error code 12 for the battery
as I took out the game board I saw that the battery had leaked all down the board and onto the motherboard
I replaced the battery and cleaned the boards the best I could and then I got the code 61
bought a clear chip and and set chip
tired to clear but during process I somehow shorted out the motherboard and then I got no coin lights or candle lights
I repaired the burn in the board and tested the circuit that was burned from the power connector to the game board and all was OK
still not working , then checked fuses for the 5 Th time , this time with a meter because they looked fine but one was blown.
replaced fuse and everything worked
I put clear chip in and then tested all OK but bv did not work , even won and got code 3200 because hopper was empty
put in set chip and went threw the process and put game chip back in and back to nothing
reels get tight 25cents lights up but no coins led or candle
so replaced game board and replaced power supply main
still nothing
the mother board I cant find anywhere but I have tested the one I have and seems OK
the game board has a transformer on it and looks bad but not sure how to test
tested all fuses  
about to pull all hair out please help

When you got the 61, you should have pushed the white self test button and held it until it changed to 61-1. Then close the door and turn the reset key and it should have been good. Check to make sure you did not bend any of the legs on your chips when you replaced them. Having just one not in the socket will keep them from working. Also pay attention to the notch on the chip. All I see it points toward the center of the board and not the closest edge. I hope this helps, Jim

I will start the craziness of the post ..no offense to poster ..

many factors contribute to whats not working ..

some left out info ??

So when you first got code 61 did you go through a standard re set -clear ??YOU SAID YES ! BUT SHORTED OUT THE " MOTHER BOARD" BOARD ??
Curious how did the board short out by just pressing a  little white button button ??

UNLESS MY GUESS :  is the main board &  mother board was  still "FUBARED"  at the time ..
then you said you repaired  motherboard  REPLACED TESTED FUSES --

AFTER THAT YOU SAID GAME WORKED YOU GOT A CODE 3200 HOPPER EMPTY ETC .  

 Then you tossed in the   set chip to enable the DBV

THEN MACHINE WAS DEAD AGAIN .

I would check all wires

check all molex connectors to see if pins are burnt or not fully seated ..
i would GO BACK TO THE FUSE PANEL --CHECK THE FUSE PANEL CLOSELY -
its my opinion you replaced to many things in your repair operation

when it could of been a blown fuse or wire not connected , etc

I hope when mother board and main power supply was out you cleaned the floor of the machine of all metal grindings from coins
if the machine is the later model S-PLUS with motherboard on floor not on side of cabinet with mother & main on left side when door is open .

i would just test out what you have with a known working machine .
if not available ?? its hard to believe any repair work on mother board or main board could be successful ??
ACID ON A PRINTED CIRCUIT IS A KILLER you have no idea where it may of burned or entirely removed a part on the board ??
or any cold solder joints that don't work on start up .. but come to life 30 minutes after machine has been on from expansion from the heat of machine running .. all these factors contribute to your problem .

just take a deep breath and start over from beginning etc . make sure you put back in game prom
in proper  position etc so you did not erase info on it .
so where do you start .
TEST ALL FUSES FIRST .
THEN  PERFORM A  RAM CLEAR @THIS POINT .
THEN SEE HOW MACHINE ACTS ?
 IF IT WORKS BEFORE YOU ENABLE THE DBV ?
JUST TAKE YOUR TIME -EVEN WRITE DOWN ON PIECE OF PAPER A CHECK LIST

good luck

Rocket ..

P.S. ANY OTHER INFO YOU LEFT OUT YOU CAN THINK OF POST AGAIN ??

Well I did leave out that I tired to reset the 61 code and it just kept coming back ,
that's why I did the ram clear.
and I have started from the basics over and over , checked all pins on proms , even if 1 was bad not all 3 chips would do the same thing
I don't have know good parts and the acid was not the repair I done on the board
I tested the board with my fluke meter and saw that there was a burned spot on the board , tested and traced the circuit and it was open
after repairing the open by putting soldier on both sides I retested and tested good , then replaced fuse and that's when I got it to work .
I know its a power problem but where am I loosing it , I have even done a pin drag test on all Conn and the main power in . I am not sure the
transformer on the game board is good or how to test it , and what voltage I should get on what pins at the board from the power supply . I can take
pictures of my repairs on board and what Conn I am wanting to test if needed , sorry not being rude just frustrated and it seems people think I haven't
checked the obvious . I am a gm master tech so I work on cars , mainly dc volts not ac so its loosing me a bit . any help is appreciated , thank you

and when I said I shorted out the board that's because it stopped working (the led ) during the programming and was acting up , it would work then it would not , I would pull out board and swap chips and it would not work then swap chips and it would work , it was a loose Conn or something at the start then when I did get the board
fixed and the fuse replaced , that's when all worked well and I thought it was fixed ,

 :137-  :137- :137- :137- :137- :137- :137- :137- :137- :137-
OK ,
just so you know ..when a poster asks for help i spoon feed the poster like they never worked on a SLOT t before ..

So if i insulted your tech background im sorry .. BUT BOTTOM LINE IS YOUR SLOT IS DEAD not said for inflamation purpose ..  :3- :3- :3- :3-

as far as what you have done .. the test you have performed etc ..
THE OLD SAYING I WAS NOT THERE TO SEE ETC  ??  LOOK OVER YOUR SHOULDER TO SEE WHAT WAS DONE OR NOT DONE ?

im just tossing out thoughts at this point .. without my morning coffee ..

the three chips you said cant all be bad ?? they could be all bad if installed backwards or took a static hit .

as i said in my first post .. if you have another machinme to test out certain parts .. that would be great

as far as acid drips ..i stick to what i first said ..it could of burnt a circuit or disolved a piece on the board that is not even there to test .

I tend to agree it may be a power feed problem ..IT SOUNDS MORE LIKE A INTERMITENT FEED PROBLEM  thats why i said check out the fuse box closely .. i have had fuses test fine installed in fuse box then machine does not work .you wiggle the fuse holder the machine comes to life ..

I also was a GM tech for years .. its like tracing a broken wire inside a harness or behind the fuse panel in automotive application .
 same as in slotmachine . they drive you nuts at times  ..

you will probably find its so simple when you find the problem ????

just re install everything -then try to see if machine turns on and works without DBV if it does then you try to set the DBV  & it goes crazy again ?
its a bad set chip .

when doing the ram clear once again >>spoon feeding<< are you doing it correctly
if so the machine should come to life after initial set up .

once again i treat every poster except friends i know there expertise . as never of worked on a slot . so no insults were meant or implied on your skills .  

so being repetative here check everything out . if in the begining you had it working until you tried to enable the DBV . ??
THAT TELLS ME THE POWER SUPPLIES ARE FINE .. IT SOUNDS MORE LIKE A POWER FEED SUPPLY THAT COMES AND GOES ..

Look at  the edge connector of main board over for bent pins--plugs of wires from power supply -any and all plugs . unplug and replug see if any change happens .
i also have told to  everyone to take pictures of the curcuit boards solder side and parts side ..put them on your computer ..
you can see so many things on the PC SCREEN that you cant with naked eye .that helps solving problems .

I tell anybody taking apart a slot or arcade machine for first time to take pictures every 15 seconds after each screw is removed or panel removed to have a picture of where it went on re assembly time ..  

good luck ..

There are two plugs that go to the mother board that are the same, any chance you have them plug into the wrong socket.  I did one time and it took Jim to sit me stright.

HI BUZZ LOL. 

I agree with ROCKET that you probably have an intermittent power connections somewhere.
I have attached a table that will show you which pins on the Motherboard power cable to check for AC voltages.
Be sure that the pins on this power plug and motherboard pins are all clean.  This connection point has been known for burnt connections that can cause issues.

It always helps if you can post some pictures of what you are working on so we can all see what we are attempting to troubleshoot.   :211-

well thanks for all your help ,
I restarted and went back over everything and still no go ,
I cant redo the clearchip because I get no Leeds
I am pretty sure all that is left is the mother board
do you know where i can get a cheap one
I have put to much in it already .
and this is the first slot I ever worked on.
I also need to know how to test the transformer on the game board , here are pictures

more pic

I have checked all conn all ok
the board looks worst than it is
but I still think that will fix it
but it needs to be cheap , I have a good game board and power supply I will throw in

pic

more

I think your best bet will be to start with a replacement motherboard.  
From what I can make out by the blurred pictures you posted, your motherboard is a mess!  :25-  
Try posting a "WTB - S Plus upright motherboard".
We have a lot of awesome vendors here that may have one.  :89-

Did all of your power supply voltages check out?
If so, then you don't need to replace your power supply.

I doubt there is anything wrong with your tray transformer.   :60-

If you would like to meter it with an ohm meter ... Disconnect the plug from the MPU board.  Pins 5 and 6 should show continuity with a small amount of resistance.  That is your Primary side of the transformer. As long as it's not open, It's fine.
Secondary side is Pins 2,3 and 4.  Pin 2 is the center tap of the secondary.  So between all three pins you should have continuity, with a slight bit of resistance between pins 3 and 4. (a bit less between 2 and 3 or 2 and 4). Pin 1 has no connection.
You should not have any continuity between any Primary and secondary pins.


This transformer is powered by the 24 VAC source, and steps down to 16 VAC  on the secondary.

still trying to find motherboard

Try giving John a call ...
http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=information/contact (http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=information/contact)

Or Send him a  PM (JOHN42355)