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The door on my Bally 6000 is lower on the right side by about 1/4" when closed.  The door seems square (same distance from top corners to cross bottom corners) and the hinges look straight. (I don't know how it would be out of whack after closing the door but it is ???!!!)  It seems that if the flat guide bar that goes into the slot in the machine when I close the door was a little lower, that would push the door up a little higher and might do the trick.  However, I don't see any adjustment that I can make to that guide bar or the cylindrical bar that it rests on when the door is closed.  Hopefully you can understand what I mean since I don't exactly know what those specific parts are called.  Any suggestions on what I can try?

Thanks,
Jim

There may be just enough play in the hinges to make the door drop on the right side.
The guide bar you mention is there to support the door on the right side.
Check that the 2 nuts that hold the support are tight and that the roller nut on the case is tight and not bent down.
You will need to remove the bill validator to get to the rollers.
Other than that you could shim out the lower hinge on the case side.

some of the wholesalers get machines by the tractor trailer load and the casinos seem to load them with a backhoe, ( not with much care ). I have seen machines that actually have the cabinet twisted, (Not square). Check to see if that may be the problem. More often though, it's a hinge issue. they are a cheap pin and slide hinge.

Thanks for your comments.  The cabinet also looks to be square from the measurements.  The hinges are tight and the bolts on the guide bar are also tight.  I can't tell if the support rollers are bent.  They look fine from what I can see from the front. I also have another 6000 and the rollers look like they're the same and in the same place.  I'll have to check out what's involved in removing the bill validator.  I was thinking about switching doors with the other machine to narrow down the problem to the cabinet or the door.  Maybe I'll just mess around with trying to shim it first to see if I can easily fix it.

I think I found something that is not helping the problem.  The roller nut was loose.  Actually when I finally got the nut off, I found that the screw in the cabinet was loose.  It flops around a little.  The other roller nut screws do not move around so I don't know if this loose screw had been welded onto the cabinet and has just come loose.  Any ideas on how to fix this?  I don't want to have to pull up the side laminate is I can avoid it.

Thanks,
Jim

Here is a video of what I was talking about.   Sorry, the video is sideways but I think you can see my problem

Thanks,
Jim

As you are not keen on destroying the Formica, as I would not be, I would either try a GOOD epoxy like BJ Weld Very carefully and very little OR if you have a Large Weller soldering GUN (not a pencil type) atleast 180 watts. Clean with a steel brush and paste it up good and use an Acid core solder as it's a little stronger then a 50/50 rosin. I'm not sure how much of a raised area you can get away by soldering or epoxying, you'll Have to scope that out.

Lindsay

Lindsay, thanks for the reply.  I have a weller but it's a soldering station (WES51 pencil type) not a gun type, so I guess l'll try the epoxy method. 

Jim

If all else fails you could bolt or rivet a plate inside the case where the rectangular hole is for the guide plate.
You would either need to make the plate adjustable by elongating the holes or measure a 1/4" above  the
guide placement.With a little lube it would last a long time.
The picture is just an example using a piece of metal I had handy.I did not want to remove the BV to place it inside.

DF777 - thanks for the idea.  I tried some epoxy but I don't think it's going to hold up long term.  I'm going to try your idea next.

Jim

If you used JB Weld it should hold.

Funny you should say that...I was thinking that it wouldn't last one day but the jb weld is still holding strong!