New Life Games Tech Forums

The hopper continues to run and pay out coins.  I checked the micro switch and it is good.  Thanks for any help.

No error codes?

Is there a coin stuck down in the backside or frontside of the hopper board?

Any coins stuck behind the I/O board or MPU board?

My 2-cents:  A bad SCR (electronic switch) on the Hopper Control Board allowing the 120VAC to continually run the hopper.

Mark, can you advise me on how to test the SCR on the board.  I believe there are 2 of them (MAC15-6).
thanks
Bob

does the hopper run because of a payout, or does it run all the time?  can you clear it by either hitting the coin switch or the resets on the hopper control board?  if you can get it to stop by either methods, push the test switch four times, this will turn on the hopper and count 10 coins ,then stop.   

this should tell you where you are.


hope this helps

Jim

Hay Bob,

Jim's got a point- I assumed you tried the usual stuff: reset button, power down/Up, etc.  If not give those a try.  Assuming the Hopper Control board is the problem you can do a quick check of the Triac (oops -not SCR) with you ohm meter.  On the AS-2981-1 board disconnect the 15-pin plug and measure the resistance betweenpins 7 & 8.  A open is good, 470 ohms is a bad/stuck relay #1, anything less than say 5 ohms is a shorted Tiac Q-1.

Cheers,

Mark 

Hey Mark,

              Would it be the same pins to check the Tiac on the 2000 series hopper board?

Thanks Gary

Hi Gary,

I assume you mean the newer Bally E-2000 hopper boards, AS-2981-4 and -5.   No, those boards a quite different.  Those use two pairs of a SCRs with a diode in a funky back to back configuration.  You could check to insure there is no short between pins 6 & 5 which measures Q-1 & CR-11 and again between pins 7 & 9 to check the Q-2 & CR-12 components.   You may see a lower reading in one direction than the other, but you should not see a low resistance( <10 ohms) in both direction.  If so than you have troubles.

Good luck.

Mark

Yes those are the boards.. I have a couple that don't work, but I wasn't sure how the check the SCR's and Tiac. I've replaced the Diodes since they were cracked. This is very helpful.

Gary

Update on my hopper problem:
turns out the hopper was fine, the machine was just in the middle of a 1000 credit payout.
It now accepts coins and pays out fine.

New problems:
diverter below coin acceptor does not pull in and all coins go to the drop box
top light on candle blinks all the time
fuse blows for the small lights (I've replaced it twice but didn't have the proper fuse, I used a 5 amp and it calls for a 7.5 amp, maybe the correct size fuse will solve this problem.

thanks
Bob

diverter problem could be several things,   too many coins in the hopper, the coin probe is telling the diverter to send all coins to the bottom. coil is bad, or the transistor on the I/o board that controls that circuit is bad.  easy fix is to clip the control wire at the coil (not the orange wire)  zip ty  the diverter arm to the coil so it stays in all  the time.

put a 8 amp fuse for the 6.3vac lighting circuit, should be alright,  sometimes using all 47 bulbs  draws more current.

can't help on the candle,  worst case unplug it or just the wire for that bulb.


Jim

blinking candle could be the change button/switch is on.  No errors on display?

check this out Bob.

Update on slot repairs:
I found that there was a wire being shorted out on the door when it was in the closed position, repair bare wires and the slot is now working, accepting coins and paying out correctly.

Only 2 problems now:
The light for when for Pay line 1 does not light up.  There are 3 bulbs, 1 on the door and 2 in the upper box.  The bulbs have been tested and are good.  Lights for pay line 2, 3, 4 and 5 all work as they should.
The light behind the 25 cent decal does no light up, bulb has been tested.

Thanks for all the help, especially to to Mark and Jim, to get it this far along.
Bob

The bulb on the door, where the wires are soldered to the socket, move the solder tabs back and forth and it will reseat the tabs to the socket and get a connection. The upper box may have the same sockets with the same problem.

Bob,    put a meter across the two wires that go to that socket, you should read 6/7 vac, if you get that voltage and the bulb is good, then it has to be in the socket. Usually the center post is worn, there again, put one meter lead on the outer post where one wire is and then CAREFULLY place the other meter lead on the center post down inside the socket to see if the voltage is getting to the post, if so and the bulb still doesn't come on, move another bulb into the location, I have seen the bulbs center post get flattened and not make contact. Its just solder and sometimes its flat and dirty.

on the payline bulbs, they are controlled by a stepper in the top box, a circular disc with brass points on it  has two coils on it one steps up the coins as additional coins are deposited and the other resets the wiper fingers upon a new game.  the brass points get extremely dirty (usually observed black gunk on the points)  clean with alcohol and lub. use a little WD 40 on your finger and spread on the points , count up and reset several times using the two coils and your finger, you will notice the difference before and after.

Hope this helps.

Jim   

Hi Jim,
I do not have voltage for the "1st coin" on the door.  I can jump the ground from the "2nd coin" to the "1st coin" and the light then works. 
There is not a stepper in the top box of this machine.
Bob

Bob,

sorry about the confusion, I was thinking your machine was an EM.   

I'll have to dig out my schematics  and wiring diagrams for the e- series.  I would imagine that there would be some transistor on the I/O board that would control that lamp, and that maybe both the door and top box would be one in the same control?

test #2 will cycle through and test all the lamps/ coils etc.

Jim