New Life Games Tech Forums

Hi to all:  Thanks for your help in getting my slot identified.  It is a quarter slot 1114.  I've read in many posts members have asked for a manual for their own slot.  Without a manual I have no way to get any answers to my problems without asking you members.  I got the machine to work BUT it doesn't pay ANY WINNING AMOUNTS.  The jackpot is 300 QUARTERS and I have placed about 400 quarters in the hopper.  When I cleaned the slot I found one wire underneath the hopper that was unattached.  Maybe that ONE wire is preventing the payout but the hopper might be sticking.  Can I get it to manually? I can turn it backwards and forwards but by just a half inch because it is locked.  Is that normal?  Is there a latch or lever I can hold up or down which would allow free movement?  Could the one wire that is unattached be the reason the hopper will not move for a payout?  After I pull down on the arm, after placing quarters in the coin drop, when the arm returns to the upright position and the reels finish moving I hear a click.
There is a gray box or long plastic switch which is on the inside top left corner of the door of the slot.  While everything on the inside of the door is flush this piece sticks out about 3 or 4 inches.  It has 4 contacts (wires) that go into each corner of the box.  The bottom right hand corner of the box is cracked.  I think that contact or wire is NOT attached to the inside of the box.  I believe this is why I have NO lights.  It looks to me that the wires coming out of that box control at least three of the lights on the front of the door one which when lit says "Coin Accepted".  Could this be the reason I don't get a payout because the Coin Accepted light is NOT working?  If anyone read my earlier posts there is a card on the front of the slot which warns that it is the responsibility of the player to make sure each coin dropped gets the coin accepted light to come on.
Does anyone know or can guess why the plate with the Serial Number would have been taken off the machine?
Is there ANYWHERE ELSE ON THE MACHINE the serial number would be placed?

Does anyone know if I can still buy the light assembly and switch that goes on top of the machine?  Would it be wired into the Push Button For Service button?

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

Ok.
Please try to keep your posts on this one machine on one post, otherwise we'll be jumping all around looking for other comments. This here is your home base for this project.
Since you can upload pics now, be aware that they are worth 1000 words, so try to pop them up with your comments.  It would be a big help.  Also, when you say there is a wire loose, give us what color wire it is. Where does it seem to go?  Is it cut, or capped or have a terminal attached.
So anyway, one bally manual is IMHO the same as any other.  The only real difference is in the wiring diagram or schematic to that particular machine.  That is where the difference is, the mechanics of it is basically all the same.
You might have a latch on your hopper motor that allows it to turn, or not turn. It should be a little thin bar of metal, and if you push it in toward the motor, that should free up your hopper disc to turn.
I appreciate your long and concise post, but without pics, I'm at a loss, although some others here may know what you're talking about. Also, when you posts pics, it contributes to the general knowledge base here, and others will eventually rely on them perhaps.
So, that said, am ready to help so go ahead and try to contact a seller here who has a basic basic bally manual, and also your schematic for the 1114. Perhaps there is one uploaded somewhere here on this site????????   Anyone???
No, I'm not chiding you.  The more precise and informative you are, the better it will be for your helpers -- us.
You are the Sherlock Holmes here, and we are the Dr. Watsons who can sometimes give you suggestions.

Do some reading on old posts here, too, to help you learn the machine and terminology.

Look forward to helping.

Found 2 EM manuals available in the NLG File System Downloads section at the top right of the page here (it's one of the Blue buttons at the top of the forum). Here is a link to get there...

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=97 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=97)

Thanks for the advice.  Here are the pictures! Notice door switch and loose wires.

More pictures on the way.

Thanks for the manual downloads. Here are more pictures.

Bally 1114 extra pictures. The hopper wiring.  I believe the unattached wire comes from the BLUE solenoid but to where it goes I don't know.

Until asked for additional pictures these are the last two.  These are of the hopper which doesn't move one way or the other more than just a tiny bit.  THANKS, EVERYONE FOR THE ADVICE.

Thank you CVS, my hero...
One of these I haven't read, looks good.
Great find, and nice of you to share.

@BigBally, good pics.  Actually they are great pics.
You can remove that cover over the hopper coin out switch, I think it was put there just to stop cheaters.  Unless you know some cheaters.
You now have a link to the bally manual files as posted above, and you've given your Watsons some needed info.  All you need now is the 1114 schematic.
Anyone willing to upload schematics???? For entertainment purposes only....
Cool.

MAY I ADD, THANK YOU FOR THE MANUALS.  I HOPE EVERYONE WILL JUMP RIGHT IN AND TELL ME WHAT LOOKS WRONG.  THE TWO DANGLING WIRES, SHOULD THEY BE CONNECTED OR LEFT ALONE?

If it was me, I'd tape up the end of each of them so they don't short out to anything,  I wouldn't connect them until I knew what they were and where they're from.  Try to trace them back to see where they go.  Also, one of your previous posts you mentioned a blue solenoid on the hopper.  I think that is a capacitor, and you don't want to be using any jumpers on that.  Boom. Be careful with them, they will hold a charge, and if you over-volt them they may pop...no they will pop.

Hi to all:  I haven't heard from any the Dr Watsons out there except OldReno.  Has anyone come up with any solutions to the problem of Non Payouts when there is a winning combination?  What cover over the hopper coin payout switch and in which picture do you see it?  Is this cover preventing the payouts and if so, how is it removed?  With the two disconnected wires nothing has changed with the addition of tape to cover them.  The only disconnected wire I imagine is the one from the BLUE CAPACITOR.  Please continue to throw any advice or help my way.  Thanks to all.
BigBally

not sure if been covered but it looks as though the payout board has not reset to zero or is that just my poor eyesight

Good eye, Mark, the payboard looks to be setting at 20 coins paid out. Yes.

Hi:  How do I RESET the payboard and where is it?  I know you guys have been looking at it from the pictures I posted.  Which picture is it?  If the setting is 20 coins paid out why didn't it pay 20 coins?  Remember, I have hit a few winners when playing but have NOT received any payouts.  Is it because of the cover on the coin hopper?  If so, again, which picture shows this cover?  Let me know so I can remove the cover and reset the payout to zero.  Speaking of payout board, is this just a way to keep track of the payouts the machine has given or is payout a way to LIMIT the actual amount of winnings paid by the machine?  If someone hits 777 on 3 quarters does this PAYOUT BOARD LIMIT the actual coins dropped as payout or does it merely keep track of the winning payouts?  What purpose does this board serve?  Thanks to all for any help.  BigBally

the machine looks stuck on a 20 payout it wont pay anymore untill  its reset.
bottom right corner is the payout board there is a coil at the bottom (think thats it with what looks like washers on the end) it nedds to be pushed in then you will hear/see the board reset itself
this board controls and counts the payouts try and reset this coil plug everything back in and see what happens

The payboard is usually attached to the hopper, but in your case it is in the back right hand side. Read this link, and it may help you figure out how to reset the board.  You can pull it out by removing the mount screws that hold it in place, and then check it out.
http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=19448.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=19448.0)
Also you can check whichever of these may help...http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=23910.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=23910.0)

Mark, the solenoid with the washers should be the step up, and the other one is the reset.  Other than that, you're right on. Good call, eagle eye!!!

I removed the cover over the hopper.  I pushed in the solenoid with the washers.  I heard a click.  I put everything back in the machine.  I played for about 20 minutes and hit a winner: 3 Oranges.  That combination pays 60 coins when 3 are played.  I played three and got NOTHING!  Now what?  "The other one is the reset".  Where is the other solenoid?  Do I have to remove the payboard to get to it?

 In the links that have been sent to me I read the hopper has to move freely.  I loaded it with coins but even before I put any quarters into the hopper it did not move freely.  It is loose enough but will not travel farther than the small pegs between each quarter.  It is locked. I can't get it to turn freely or more than the quarter of an inch that it moves now.

The manual download which was sent to me in an earlier post is for the NEWER versions of this slot.  At least, in my opinion, much of what is suggested in the manual can't be done on my slot since it doesn't have the features and switches this manual is covering.  I did read through it.  That is why I am asking for help from you.

Thanks to all.  Keep the suggestions coming, please.   BigBally

that board bottom right corner is your payout board if you look at the fingers on it there at lets say 2 oclock they need to be at 6 oclock on that board assembly there is another solenoid you need to get at this and push it manually to reset to zero
you might have to loosen the assembley to do this

Hi,
Your picture #CIMG2034 shows the payboard.Attached to the green spiral are your wiper fingers.  The photo shows the fingers setting at about position 4:00 (call it 4:20...?). When those fingers reset to 6:00, then the board is reset to zero.  That is supposed to happen every time you have a pay and then pull the handle. 
So, power down the machine, and remove the 2 or 3 phillips screws that hold in the payboard assembly, unplug it, pull it out, and play with it. You will learn how it works easily when you see it.
Then compare it to the pictures at this link. http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=19448.0
It should look very similar to what you have.
Your payboard is not resetting.  The fingers can't get back to zero, so it thinks it already paid.
Now try a jackpot pay, and let us know if it pays anything at all.
Keep on...
Note you can set up pays by pulling the handle and holding the fan and putting wins on centerline.  then release fan.

Latest update:  Took the advice of the forum.  Reset the payout board and removed coin hopper cover.  NEW PROBLEMS HAVE RESULTED FROM THESE ACTIONS:

The FIRST coin dropped is NEVER accepted.  The very next coin will almost always be accepted and then the second.  The third coin sometimes is immediately accepted but generally it is NOT.  After trying to place the third coin for play with 8,9,10 or 11 quarters I give up and pull the arm down for a spin.  After each spin there is NOW A LOUD HUM.  After the first coin is dropped but NEVER ACCEPTED the hum disappears.  The slot then accepts the next coin and so on.  While difficult it does accept the third coin.

After a short time I had my FIRST PAYOUT!!  I won 4 quarters.  After 20 minutes I hit 3 BLUE FRUIT with 3 coins which is a PAYOUT of 60 coins.  The slot spit out ONLY 20 coins.  NOW IT WILL NOT ACCEPT A SINGLE COIN AND THIS IS AFTER DROPPING TWO ROLLS OF QUARTERS INTO THE MACHINE.  THERE IS NO MORE LOUD HUM SINCE THE PAYOUT.

What is my next course of action?  Someone, in an earlier post saw that the payout was limited to 20.  How did they know this and how can I correct it to pay what it should pay?  Are those slugs on one of the solenoids I had to push to reset the payout connected in any way to the limit of 20 coins paid?

Remember, if you trace through all of the posts on this slot you will run across my description of a broken switch box (?) that is inside the door on the upper left hand side.  It has 4 wires with connectors going into it.  The left bottom part of this gray box is cracked and the wires are loose.  I think this is why I have NO COIN ACCEPTED light nor do I have any readout when I win.  I mention this because MAYBE the loud hum, the first coin not being accepted is due to the damaged switch box?

Thanks to everyone for getting me this far.  My first big payout was exciting but it wasn't what it should have been.  Help me get rid of this LIMIT of 20 coins!  And let me be able to put coins in the slot again!

BigBally

I'd suggest first action is to find that hum.  Look and see where it's coming from.
You may have multiple problems, but that's why we're here.  Fix them one by one.
You might want to also worry about coin handling until later on.  Just open the door and push down the coin in switch how ever many times you want for coins in.  Also remember you can set up the pays instead of playing it until it hits.  BTW, is that cracked grey box attached to the door hinge???  It might be some kind of door open switch, that you may have to close with a matchbook or something to play it with door open...?

couple of points first as i have no experience of 3 coin machines these points are aimed at old reno
the grey box top left is actually a win meter if you look at the photo of the machine front it shows in the top right corner door open view = top left
what purpose would this serve?
how does it register 3 coins played ?
how does it work out the payouts for 1 2 and 3 coins? im sure these points have been covered in other posts but it might be useful to post again on here

HI:  I do believe the gray box is the win meter.  It is directly on the other side of the win meter on the front of the slot.

Who sells the replacement for it?  Can I buy from someone here on this forum or website?

As long as I am at it I'd like to get the LIGHT that sits on top of the slot machine which turns on when the PRESS BUTTON FOR CHANGE OR SERVICE is pressed.

I will attempt to find the source of the hum but can you tell me how to set the machine to pay the correct amount instead of the 20 coin limit?

How can you tell by looking at the pictures the slot is set to pay a maximum of 20 coins?

Thanks to all.

The win meter tells you how many coins were paid for your payout.  It should be resetable by playing another game.  That's why 4 wires, 2 to count, and maybe 2 to reset.
the machine registers coins in on your odds disc assembly, which is mounted below the reel mech on the back wall right hand side.  You can also remove the holding screws for this, unplug it, and take it out and play with it.  When the odds disc steps up, it turns on the 2nd coin, and then 3rd coin lights.  When it resets, you are back to 1 coin played.  On the odds assembly you will see two little coil assemblies with little boards.  These boards count your 2nd coin and 3rd coin payouts.
Pull the unit out and play with it.  See if there is anything obviously wrong.

NEW PICTURES FOR YOU/SAME THREAD

UNATTACHED WIRES FOUND: In one of my first posts, though not on this thread, I asked for help in identifying my new slot.  I also asked if anyone could tell me to attach two loose wires.  I finally traced them and found where they start.  They come from the large middle button that touches the door when it is closed.  I know the pictures will better explain what I can't.  Now that you know where they come from, where do they go?  Where do I attach them?

ADDED PICTURES OF LOOSE WIRES

THE MIDDLE BUTTON IS WHERE THESE UNCONNECTED WIRES COME FROM AND THEY SLIDE BEHIND THE BELL AND DROP DOWN INTO THAT OPEN AREA IN PICTURE 12.  ONE WIRE IS GREEN AND THE OTHER IS RED WITH BLUE MARKS THROUGHOUT.

MORE PICTURES.  THESE ARE OF THE WIN METER SWITCH.  I HAVE NO LIGHTS WHEN THE COIN IS DROPPED.  DON'T KNOW IF IT IS ACCEPTED.  I TOOK IT APART AND CLEANED IT.  WHEN I HAVE WON A JACKPOT THE METER HAS NOT BEEN LIT.

2ND GROUP OF PICTURES OF SWITCH.  THE YELLOW WIRE WAS TAPED AND NOT CONNECTED TO THE BOX.

LAST PICTURES OF SWITCH.  THE SWITCH WAS COVERED WITH GREEN CORROSION.  I CLEANED THE WIRES AND CONNECTORS.  THE WIRES THAT COME FROM THE SWITCH AND GO INSIDE THE BOX HAVE BEEN CUT.  THE CONNECTORS THAT ARE PLACED OUTSIDE OF THE BOX TOUCH THESE CUT WIRES FROM THE INSIDE.  I WISH I COULD GIVE A BETTER DESCRIPTION.  I HOPE THE PICTURES EXPLAIN.

MORE IMPORTANT PICTURES. NOTICE THE WHEELS ARE DIRTY, BLACK.  HOW CAN I CLEAN THEM?  WHAT DO THESE SMALL WHEELS DO?

MORE PICTURES.  WHERE I HAVE THE SCREWDRIVER POINTED LOOK TO SEE WHAT THAT PIECE OF PLASTIC IS THAT IS WRAPPED IN TAPE.  WHAT IS ITS FUNCTION?  SHOULD I UNRAVEL THE TAPE?  AM I MISSING A FUSE?  THE PICTURE SHOWS THREE BUT THERE IS SPACE FOR FOUR.

LAST SET OF PICTURES FOR YOUR USE.  THE REELS.

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE REEL.  THANKS EVERYONE.  I HOPE THESE NEW PICTURES WILL HELP SOLVE THE PROBLEMS I'VE ASKED ABOUT.

DON'T FORGET:  CAN I BUY THE TOP LIGHT/ASSEMBLY THAT IS PART OF THE PUSH BUTTON FOR CHANGE OR SERVICE?

BIGBALLY

yes you probably could by the light try foxslots site
those loose wires lets forget them for now
the taped up wires leave them for now
what we know is when you reset the board bottom right and played the machine it paid out not correct but paid out
try playing it with 1 coin for a while see which pays pay correctly which dont
try lining up a jackpot with 1 coin see what happens if we can get it to pay correctly on 1 coin we are only small steps away from paying out on 2 and 3 coins
when playing and paying on 1 coin is the payout resetting or is it staying where it is we need to grt this to reset
i think if you find these out first we can move to the next step
read renos link on setting a win

I'm leaving for Ca for a few days, so won't be able to help much.
Try tracing back those switch wires to see if you can find where they come from.
Good pics by the way....

THINGS ARE WORSE SINCE THE PAYOUT!

SINCE MY ABBREVIATED PAYOUT (I WON 20 COINS INSTEAD OF 60) NOTHING WORKS.  THE SLOT WILL NOT TAKE A SINGLE COIN.  NOT ONE!!!!  EVERYTHING IS THE SAME AS BEFORE THE BIG JACKPOT EXCEPT THE PAYBOARD WAS RESET.  IF YOU HAVE BEEN FOLLOWING THIS LONG THREAD OR POST YOU'LL REMEMBER I WAS UNABLE TO GET ANY WINNINGS FROM ANY OF THE COMBINATIONS.  THEN IT WAS BROUGHT TO MY ATTENTION THE PAYOUT BOARD WAS STUCK AT TWENTY AND HAD TO BE RESET.  I WON 4 COINS AND LATER I WON WHAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN 60 BUT ONLY TWENTY CAME OUT.  SINCE THAT MOMENT I CAN'T GET A COIN TO STAY IN THE SLOT.  EVERY COIN DROPPED COMES RIGHT OUT.
WHEN I WON MY JACKPOT THE BELL DIDN'T RING.  I DON'T KNOW IF IT IS SUPPOSED TO RING BUT I ALWAYS THOUGHT THE SLOT BELL RINGS WITH EACH WINNING PULL.
THE WIN METER DOES NOT WORK AND MOST OF THE LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING BUT THESE THINGS DIDN'T WORK ANYWAY.  WHAT DID WORK WAS THAT I COULD DROP COINS AND PULL THE ARM DOWN.  NOW I CAN'T EVEN DO THAT. 

IMPORTANT TO NOTE: WITH MY FIRST WIN AFTER THE PAYBOARD WAS RESET TO ZERO I WON 4 COINS.  THE VERY NEXT PULL, THE SLOT WOULD NOT ACCEPT MY FIRST COIN DROPPED.  IT DID ACCEPT THE SECOND COIN.  AFTER EACH PULL THE FIRST COIN DROPPED WOULD COME BACK OUT OF THE SLOT.  THE SECOND COIN WAS ACCEPTED.  I PLAYED ONE, TWO OR THREE COINS BUT AFTER EVERY PULL THE VERY NEXT COIN DROPPED AFTER THE PULL WAS NOT ACCEPTED.  THIS IS HOW IT WENT UNTIL I WON THE JACKPOT WIN OF 60.  ONLY 20 COINS WERE PAID AND SINCE THEN NOTHING STAYS IN THE SLOT.  WHATEVER IS DEPOSITED COMES RIGHT BACK OUT.  CAN'T PLAY!!!!   PLEASE HELP ME!!

THANKS TO ALL,  BIGBALLY

That hum might be the coin reject relay, the one on the door under the coin acceptor mechanism, that pushes the coins back into the payout tray when there's reason to do it. I have a Summit that has a very noisy relay, sounds like a lawn mower running when it's energized. The AC hum doesn't have a downside other than the noise.

There should also be a coin diverter relay that sends the "coin in" to the hopper, and that will hum as well. When the INSERT COIN light is on, that relay should be energized. If not, the coin won't be accepted, and will drop into the payout tray.

i know its a bit of a pain but what happens when you open the door and flick the switch manually
 try this post what happens

Thanks for the reply.  Maybe more people are not interested in this post since I am NEW at this and my questions border on irritation?  Please be patient with me.  I will try ALL suggestions.  I am not sure what you want me to try.  When I open the door there are TWO relays or switches which have a wire which sticks out and is hit by the incoming coin.  The one closer to the top or middle of the door, if I press down on that wire a bell rings and a counter goes up a number.  I thought when I first saw the counter which is behind a metal plate attached to the reel assembly it kept track of the PULLS but it keeps track of the coins dropped into the machine.  The other relay or switch is at the bottom part of the door.  When I flick the wire I hear a click but nothing else happens.

its the upper one were intrested in (people are intrested in your probs but sometimes we dont want to give wrong advice)
if you flick this down manually its counting the coins in but not releasing the handle ?
if it does not release the handle try pulling on the reel plunger (dashpot) pull it towards you thats on the  right side of the mech if not take the reels out and see /check if the dashpot switch is closed

BAD TO WORSE!  NOTHING WORKS NOW!  WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN AND I FLICK THE WIRE CLOSEST TO THE TOP IT DOES NOT RING THE BELL.  IT DOES NOT REGISTER ON THE COUNTER OR METER.  THE BOTTOM WIRE, IF I FLICK THAT ONE NOTHING HAPPENS, NO SOUND.  YESTERDAY WHEN I FLICKED THE TOP WIRE (RIGHT NEXT TO THE COIN DROP AND IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DOOR) THE BELL SOUNDED AND THE COUNTER REGISTERED.  NOW, NOTHING HAPPENS.  IT IS SO DISAPPOINTING.  I PLAYED THE SLOT FOR HOURS.  IT TOOK ALL OF THE QUARTERS.  THE ONLY THING WAS IT DIDN'T PAY WHEN A WINNER HAPPENED.  YOU GUYS GOT ME TO RESET THE PAYBOARD AND WHEN I HIT A JACKPOT, ALTHOUGH IT DIDN'T PAY THE CORRECT AMOUNT, AT LEAST IT PAID SOMETHING AND I WAS THRILLED.          NOW NOTHING WORKS!        PLEASE HELP!!!!

ok im know how frustrating it can be trying to get this going so lets go back to the begining
pull the hooper reset the board in the right hand corner
the board in the left  hand corner with the little numbered reels just to the left in picture 7 theres a coil push the plunger down see if this resets this board this counts coins in
now play see what happens and then we can take it from there

I can't begin to express my level of frustration.  I should have been happy playing the slot knowing it would never pay a winner.  Instead I wanted it to work as it should.  With all of the help it did pay a winner although it was limited to 20 coins.  But now NOTHING works.    I tried your suggestion and nothing happened. The wire hasp which moved when a coin was dropped and used to ring the bell and advance the counter is dead.  Nothing happens when it is moved.  The wire hasp at the bottom of the door, nothing happens when that is moved.  Does any of this have anything to do with the gray box?  The one with the four wires which is directly in front of the win meter?  Remember, I've got NO lights when the machine is powered except the top one which reads Pays Left To Right and Pays Right To Left.  The coin accepted, tilt and deposit coin lights do NOT light.

OK, RELAX AND TURN OFF THE CAPS, NO NEED TO SHOUT.
Kidding.
You may have blown one of your fuses.  That's not uncommon.  Check them.
Until you find the coin in problems, it is probably best to push down the coin in switch whisker with your finger  to simulate coins in.  Also, don't waste time waiting for pays, just set them up on the centerline as we talked about above.
It's ok, smoke a bowl or have a beer.  Sometimes the wheels of progress move slowly, and sometimes they don't.
You might also try pushing those 3 buttons on the top right side to see if they effect anything.
I'm certain we'll all collectively help get it running....
6V fuse is for your feature lights.
50V fuse is for your coils.
If all lights are out, and your 120V fuse is good, look for a red neon light on behind the hopper to the left.  If it's on, push that white button to turn it back on.  This happens when a pay has not completed.
Fuses blow all the time when troubleshooting.  This is hard for me, too.

FUSES BLOWN!!

Thanks for the tip.  Please look at the photo with the screwdriver pointing to a taped square.  That is a fuse but is it an extra fuse?  Why is it taped to wires and why is it inside that box? 

If you look closely the mystery box with the fuse inside it is taped to a WHITE wire with blue squares on one end and a thick black wire on the other end.

Of the THREE fuse holders in the back of the slot from left to right, the first two are BLOWN.  The first one reads: BUSS AGC 5  250V.  The second one reads: 7A 250V  312.

Please refer to the pictures.  From left to right there are two fuses in the first two spaces, there is NOTHING in the third space, there is a fuse in the fourth space which is good.  That fuse

reads BUSS MDL 8  32 VOLT.   From the latest reply to my post it seems the fuses are NOT correct.  But you all know that I know NOTHING!  Please let me know which fuses I need

and WHERE they should go.  Do I disassemble the phantom fuse in the plastic box that is floating to see what strength it is or LEAVE it alone?

Thanks to all.

Don't know about that taped fuse.  Sometimes you will have 4 fuses, two 120V ones, and one 50V and one 6V.  I suspect the mystery box fuse may be 120V.  Make sure machine is unplugged when you dig out those fuses.  Generally 50V has an orange wire, and 6V has a solid blue wire.  120V circuits can be white, black, etc.
You should get a few 5A fuses, and maybe a few 8A fuses.  I'd put the 5A in the 120V sockets, and use the 8A for 50V or 6V.  It is not a good idea to overfuse the machine, that is, don't put in a 15A fuse in place of an 8A.  Fuses are a lot cheaper and easier to replace than melted coils, which is what may happen if you overfuse. 
Take some time and go through your machine and tape up any loose wire ends that may inadvertently be touching to case somehow.  If a hot wire touches to case, even for a moment, it may pop a fuse.  I'd probably leave the phantom box alone until you get the other stuff taken care of... Hope that helps.
Do you have a VoltOhm Meter?  You can pick one up cheap at harbor freight for under $10.

Hi: It seems to me the slot is overfused.  I'll go and get some of the ones you recommended.  5A and 8A. 

Please refer to my earlier post for the next bit of info.  The one fuse NOT blown on the fuse holder, the one to the far right is  32 volt buss mdl 8  it has one thin red and one thin black wire.

The first blown fuse to the far left in the picture has one thin dark blue wire and two thin baby blue wires.

The second blown fuse has 3 orange wires.  Where do I put the 5A fuses and where do I put the 8A fuses?  Are the 5A and 8A only 120v or do they come in other ratings like 250?

THANKS!

I don't think voltage matters too much, but try to replace as original as you can...?
Where the fuses go is in last post.
It won't hurt to underfuse to see if they blow right away or not.  You can always up the amps a little bit at a time.  If the fuses blow right away, then you must find out why or you'll just be wasting fuses.  Read my post on finding shorts in that case, because there will be a reason they are blowing.  Again, tape up all loose wires touching case before you start to help eliminate problems from the get go.  No wires or switches or coil ends should touch to case.
And, power down when you replace them so you don't short yourself out or get 'bit'.

Thanks very much.  I'll do as you say and let you know what happens.

Where do I get these FUSES?

Went to the local hardware store.  They had nothing.  Went to the AutoZone store.  They had dozens of fuses but NO 8A.  All of the fuses they carried had a rating of 250 Volts.

Where do you suggest I go?  Each store wanted an explanation for why I needed 5A and 8A.  I thought I'd just be able to go in a store and pick up a box of fuses.  Not that easy. 

READY TO THROW IN THE TOWEL!

I thought someone would have asked to see my progress by now as it's been 9 days since my last post.  I asked or begged for some help on fuses.  I went to Auto Zone, Ace, Lowe's and Home Depot.  No one carries the fuses I need.  I went to Radio Shack and they sold me 125volt 5A and 8A but they were the tiny kind.  I went back to get the size I need and they only carry 250 volt.  I bought them anyway. Put the fuses in according to the earlier posts and nothing happens.  It still will NOT accept any coin.  If I manually flick the wire where the coin drops I hear the bell but that's it.  The counter no longer registers.  I manually pulled the arm for a spin without a coin and nothing happens after the spin.  With the new fuses in place I still have only ONE light which works.  The coin acceptor light, the win meter, nothing lights.
I managed to take out the payboard and reset it by pushing in the thing which looks like it has slugs on it.  This did nothing.
I am at my end.  I hope you guys can figure out where I go from here.  Thanks.

BigBally

Ready to throw it all away!

I can't find a website for foxslots.  Does anyone know where I can find the specific fuses for this slot if the ones I have won't do the job?  Can you anyone tell me where I can buy the replacement for the damaged, cracked switch box, gray color in pic 7 and the light assembly for the top of the slot that is part of the Push Button For Service or Change.
For any of my slot needs, what site or shop is the best?

BigBally

It is possible that you blew out the lights.  Do you have a voltohm meter, or any way to check them for continuity.
A fuse is a fuse, by the way.  If it's the same size, go for it.  You can use 10A in there if you want.  Or 5A, it does not have to be 8Amps for these troubleshooting purposes.
AFA the payboard, the solenoid with the slugs is the step up, not the reset.  I posted a link a little bit about hopper boards earlier in this thread, did you read it?
I'll have to get back to you, I am having as crappy a time as you are, but my reason is I quit smoking cigarettes a week ago, and I am at my wits end.  Also, my cheery attitude is fucked for now.
Anyway you have a light (6v), it powers up, you got 120V also.  I would check your 50V fuse again, because if the machine still has a short, it might have blown as soon as you replaced it.  They blew for a reason, and we have to find the reason.  Did you read my post on checking for shorts?  Do you have a meter?

BigBally,
I don't buy much stuff from the dealers here, because well, I don't buy much stuff.  But I have had good luck with Foxslots and CVSlots, so try to contact either of them.
We still have to take this one step at a time.
If there's a short that is blowing fuses, we have to find and fix it.
You can buy a cheap meter at Harbor Frieght under $10, or probably borrow one from a friend.  A nice tool to have.
There is also a link here: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=23910.0
and here: http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=downloads;cat=97
That you may want to browse until I can write again. (gone for a couple days...)
The last link has 2 downloads for you.  Please download them, and you might want to print them out, especially the parts manual.
So, check your fuses again, to see if they popped.  Check your bad lights to verify the filaments are intact or not, and look at your payboard to see if the fingers are at the 6:00 position like they should be.
Yes, you are impatient, and I'm impatient too.  I want a fucking cigarette, but I'm going to just wait it out.
Hang in here and you will get the machine fixed.  If we're not prompt enough in our replies then read old posts, and read my section on troubleshooting tips.  No one here gets paid to post stuff, we do it to help each other out. When I get back I will read these 3 pages of thread, and then get back with you, and I'd like to be sure you have read the links that I posted to you.
You can certainly learn as much reading old EM posts here as you can by reading replies from us.
So I'm going to go kick the dog, and scream at a total stranger, to see if that helps my nicotine addiction or not.  You might do the same....
BTW, it is much more fun fixing these than playing them.

hi hows it going ? where you got to?
sometimes it pays to walk away for awhile then come back to it
stock up on fuses, learn to use a multimeter
familiarise yourself with the machine ,which bits you can remove which bits drive what
the difficulty with your one is the payout board is mounted in the cabinet not on the hopper

I've got nothing to report except the same old crap. I have a voltage meter although I'm not sure I know or remember how to use it.  CV slots is an eBay seller who has only a few items to sell at the moment.  I still CAN'T find FoxSlots.  The name is for sale.  It doesn't seem to exist.  I f I do get this working again I want to replace the broken grey box inside the door and I want to buy the light assembly for the top of the machine.  If anyone knows of a slot parts seller for my machine please tell me.

I think MOST of the problems are the result of that grey box/switch with the four wires that come out of it, directly opposite of the win meter.  It is cracked and only 3 wires are connected.  Actually I don't think ANY of the wires are connected INSIDE of the box.  Three wires go in but I don't think they are attached to anything.  The 4th wire is YELLOW and it is taped and pushed out of the way.  Shoved down a bunch of other wires. 
The only thing I haven't touched at all during all of this poking around is the ODDS wheel?  I don't know what it is called but it is a small reel of numbers that spin UNDERNEATH the three big reels.  I can't see it unless I pull out the reel assembly.  Do I have to reset it or push anything on that?
If I flick the wire hasp inside the door, now that the fuses are have been replaced, I hear a thump and the bell rings.  BUT IT STILL WILL NOT ACCEPT ANY COIN I DROP INTO IT.
Please look at the pictures I posted earlier and see if there is something I am missing or not doing.  PLEASE!  And thanks to all who have read my posts and offered their time and advice.

BigBally

Here is the link to Foxsslots...

http://stores.ebay.com/Gallery-of-Slots (http://stores.ebay.com/Gallery-of-Slots)

He's listed up in the Sponsors section on the Home Page of NLG.. Along with many other venders.

Gary

Try the "Member List" at the top of the page here (blue navigation buttons) to locate members. Since both Foxsslots and ourselves are sponsors here, our contact info is listed on the Home Page in the Sponsor section. We dumped eBay for the most part and went to our own store site instead.

Not sure what you're needing, but if its for an EM and Foxsslots doesn't have it, I'd be surprised.

Thanks very much.  I had only been looking for replies to this post.  I hadn't yet looked around the website. Now I know.  Thank you.

BigBally

There is tons of cool info, along with links, and documents (documents are in "NLG File System Downloads" button, far right top).   :88-

BigBally, when you push down on the coin in switch, does the handle pull, or do you get game play at all?
I'm not quite sure what the machine is now doing and not doing...
Please re-post what the current problems are now that the fuses are replaced.

Hello to all:  I am back to beg for more solutions and help.  I took a month off from worrying and tinkering with the slot.  Nothing has changed.  It still does NOT work.  The coins drop
like rain when put in the coin drop and don't make a sound and don't register.  All of the fuses are good but nothing registers.  You all know I know NOTHING about this machine and yet I still believe all of the problems, or at least, most of them come from  that broken grey box that sticks out from the other side of the win meter.  I think if I can get a new one I can solve most, if not all of my problems but so far no one seems to agree with this.  Any new fresh perspectives on this?  Any ideas?  Anything?  Thanks.  BigBally

How about some  :317-  so we can see what your seeing... The more information we have the better...  :211-

Gary

I believe the grey box is just the wiring connection for your meter.  Your meter does not make the machine work or not work.  It just counts coins, that's all it does.  If you want to keep chasing it go ahead..., but it is just a meter.
Of course unless this is a credit machine.

When you put the coins in, do they return back into the tray or do they go into the hopper?  Where do they go?

If you push down on the coin in switch with your finger, does anything happen?

If not, pull your reel mech, and push the latch (part#53) on page 32 of your bally parts manual.
Then put the reel mech back in, and see if that releases the handle.
I am presuming that you are putting coins in and cannot get the handle to pull?
Bypass the handle pawl, pull the handle, and set up a pay.  Does it pay?
Have you looked at my page on troubleshooting, and downloaded the bally manual?

Glad you took some time off.

OK, I went back to the beginning of this long post.
In reply #3, your pic cimg2022 is interesting.
What are those buttons for?
Have you tried pushing them throughout all this?
One might be a reset button of some kind, another might be a door open switch.
Sure a lot of buttons there.  Have you been able to trace any of them back to see where they go?