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I have a wild star red, white and blue S+. Progressive is on and showing zero's and C1 back and forth. How can I make it work? SP932 and SS 3670. There are also several wires from the top box not hooked to anything in lower cab. 2 sets of black and white wires and a plug with five prongs. Also a 9vdc power supply. See attached pic.'s. Also what's the key switch all about? Part of progressive?

Need more info
Was the progressive working before this ?
Did you get the machine this way with the error or did the progressive just quit ?

Please take pictures of the progressive board so we can see which one you have
could be as simple as a dead battery on the progressive board or a quick reprogram .

Tim

Hey Rockin' Elvis! :88-

I personally love progressives.  They do for me exactly what they're intended to do ... make me spend more.  3 out of 4 of my machines have progressives on them.

 :259-  Completely agree with Tim!  This may not be that hard if you're lucky.  The first thing to do is take a picture of the progressive controller inside the top cabinet.  It's most likely a Mikohn of some kind inside a metal box.  If I'm right, then you'll start with using the two buttons to set the progressive to SA (Stand Alone).  Then, you have to plug everything in.  Worst case, you'll have to make a harness for your PC and program it.

But, before we get ahead of ourselves, start with a picture of what kind of progressive controller we're dealing with.  Then, we can go from there to program it and plug it in all the right places. :89-

P.S. "Suspicious Minds" and "Are You Lonesome Tonight" are my two favs!

:Dave

C1 is a communication error on a LED5 bosrd that connects to a con1 link controller.
This would generally indicate the loss of communications due to no con1

Again only speculation until we see pics.

OK here are the pic's. I see the battery is bad 2vdc. It all says Bally. I just got the machine and just got it working. Had 61 and would not clear. The door optics were in the wrong places. Once I switched them it reset. Game plays fine. Progressive changes colors as it displays. Can this display a message along with amount? I read on here that since I have SP932 then I need a SET 046 for the progressive. true or false? New Jersey chip it said.

The first photo is a Bally mastercom 220 unit
has nothing to do with the progressive it's for the player tracking.
Which might also explain the 9v adapter laying in the bottom of the cabinet.

Is the progressive working now ? you stated it's changing colors 

Tim

Yes $0.00 and changes colors and about every 10 seconds changes to C1. OK so all the stuff in the bottom is player traching and I can remove it.

I think Jay has it right, looks like it's not a standalone and requires a con.
What does it say on the white label with the barcode that is under the gray ribbon cable? LED5?

That is a LED5.
The communication line is the 2 wire white line on the right of your photo.
Follow this and let us know where this goes.

There should be another metallic can and controller.
This would be the Con1 link controller.

I have mine in one and controlling 3 other Led5 boards in other machines.

Here's the other end of the wire. I goes nowhere. Just a 2 prong plug. Is it worth buying a con?

You have a couple of choices.
1. Buy a CON1 - I think Joey - the host of NLG has a raft of them. Call him. Alternatively April (Leemans slot sales) usually has these in stock. Target price $35-$65
Advantages: a. These are a link controller - capable of driving up to 32 of these displays. All of the slots can participate in the progressive.
                   b. You can have 4 levels of progressives
                   b. You already have a glass kit with the mounted display - for future reference the display is called a meter.
                   c. You can buy LED4's which drive the larger overhead mounted displays (1x2's, 1x3's) 
                   d. Con1 stuff is cheap as its older.
Disadvantages:
                 a. Con1's are older technology although the display can change multiple colors they cannot drive graphics

2. Buy a CHAMII+ (note the plus) These are standalone progressives. Target $75-$125, these units are in high demand. The non plus is a link controller (see next section).
Advantages: a. Simple standalone unit.

Disadvantages:
                 a. ChamII+s cannot drive graphics either.
                 b. This is a fork lift replacement. New controller, new meter, removing the old meter from the glass is a bit tricky.
                 c. These are NOT a link controller - If you have multiple machines each would need their own controller.

3. Buy a CON2i + ChamII (Non plus). Note the 'i' - This is the IGT compatible model. Expect to pay $500-$1800
Advantages: a. Most versitile of the controllers - can drive a ChamII+ (programmed in link mode) or a ChamII (non plus) or a supreme display
                  b. Supreme displays are available in all sorts of configurations, have graphics and other neat features (but not cheap).
                  c. ChamII's (non plus) are plentyful and cheap.

Disadvantages:
                 a. ChamII's cannot drive graphics either.
                 b. This is a fork lift replacement. New controller, new meter, removing the old meter from the glass is a bit tricky.
                 
Personally I would buy a CON1 as path of least resistance.

In any of the cases you will need:
a Laptop with a 9pin serial port
a 9 pin straight through cable that will need some modifications (basically shorting CTS/RTS - well covered in another thread).
PSP software (do a search) as it might be attached to a Thread or a post to a members request for PSP and some kind sole will send it to you. This is needed to program the progessive.

Sounds way over my head. I have a progressive in a Bally and had to send it out for programming. Now I keep it on 24/7 so the battery won't die. K+ to everyone for all your advise. And Thank-Ya-Thank-Ya-Very-Much

With the mikon stuff its rather simple. Not sure what you have in the bally. If it is Mikohn the PSP software can program that also.
Sorry to tell you keeping the machine on will NOT stop the battery from discharging. The battery is not charged by the machine.

PC---9pin cable ---- Con1-----2 wires----LED5---Ribbon Cable---Meter
The PC & 9 pin cable is only needed to program the CON1.

The CON1 also needs to be wired to your mother board.
There is a 4 pin connector on your mother board (this is the fixed board not the removeable one). Pin1 Gnd, Pin2 CoinIn, Pin3 Data Return, Pin4 Unused
The PIN3 Data Return is not used with a CON1
Essentially you will use 2 wires from this 4 pin connector to the slot - This is GND, and CoinIn

In fact if you wanted to you could also connect your bally to the CON1.

Here is the total picture..... The top portion shows the LED5 & meters just like above. The bottom portion shows the connection to the machines.


  +------------------------2wires-------------------------------------------------------LED5-Meter
  | +------2wires---------------------------------------------LED5-Meter
  | |
  | | +------2wires ---------------LED5-Meter 
  | | |
CON1 ----GRound wire ------ Machine1 - GND ------ Machine2 - GND ------Machine 3-Gnd ----- etc.
  | | +----------------------------Machine1 - CoinIn
  | |   
  | +--------------------------------------------------------Machine2 CoinIn
  |
  +------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Machine 3- CoinIn

Does anyone want to take a guess about the Keyed Switch above the motherboard?

Where do the wires off the switch connect to?

I don't know. I will have to trace them. I know they are green and yellow. I thought it was some kind of normal thing even though I have never seen another machine with it. When I figure it out I will let everyone know.

OK the wires from the keyed switch go to the motherboard. Plugs inbetween the two large plugs on rear of it. Here's a picture.