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I just acquired this machine from a FedEx Shipping salvage auction and I know nothing of the machines history. The machine powers up, but the coin hopper will not shut-off. The solenoid for arm lever stays engaged and the reel motors are engaged but do not spin. The reset buttons do not work/respond and the LED displays for error codes is blank. I did a full visual on this machine, but see no potential cause of any problems.  The processor board appears to be perfect condition and all EPROMS are in place. Does anyone have any advise or suggestions for diagnosing problem?

What numbers are displayed on the reel glass display panel?
It also sounds like you removed the MPU....don't do that with the machine powered on or you may corrupt the board.

The WINNER PAID, CREDITS AND COINS PLAYED displays are all completely blank. I did inspect the MPU, but I  always make sure the machine is unplugged before I tamper with any of the components. It appears as if the machine is stuck in payout.

...and your display isn't working.
Sounds like the machine is trying to payout a winner...keep feeding the hopper until it's paid out.
You have to get the display working to troubleshoot your machine.
Check the two connectors to it.

I cycled over $1,000 in quarters and it just wont shut-off.  I checked the connectors and all seems to be good. I even disconnected/reconnected almost every connection on the machine, still no change...... :25-

Is the candle on top of the machine Blinking?
When it is spitting out quarters, is it making any sounds from the speaker?
Are any of the button lights illuminated?
Did you check all three fuses?

The candle on the top of the machine was actually in bubblewrap behind the top glass, when I bought it at FedEx auction. I installed candle on the machine, but the wire has nothing to plug to. Also, there are several other connectors that are not plugged to anything. So basically, there are no boards, or anything behind the top glass( I assumed that area was for casino only components), but there is a flourescent that lights up inside.

While the hopper was cycling, I began tapping on all the buttons(especially the "change" and "cash/credit" buttons) and the machine only made a sound one time and it was for a fraction of a second. So basically, the sound was like one ding like the sound you hear when a machine is paying out in a casino(ding, ding, ding, ding).

All of the button lights are illuminated except the "change" button. Also, the "insert coin" and "coins accepted" on the glass are lit, but all the LEDs are not.

I did a visual check on all three fuses on several occassions, but I did not replace them for absolute comfirmation.

There should be a mating 2 pin Molex plug that the candle plugs into in the top box.  :103-  The candle may give us a clue as to what is happening.  :89-


If the hopper was actually in payout mode, you would be hearing one "ding" per coin out.  So I don't believe that is what is happening here.  :60-


Change button has no lamp so that is normal. The lamp condition (ignoring the blank LEDs) you described would be true if the max bet had not been reached. But since you pressed all of the buttons, including the MAX bet button... (Unless the harness that connects the button switch is disconnected), The "insert coin" lamp should have extinguished and the reels should proceed to spin (normal game play). You would also here the "ding" sounds as the coins played added up. 



Get yourself a low cost Digital Multi-Meter.  You can use it for checking circuits for voltages and continuity for checking circuit traces and fuses.  :71-

I would suggest shutting down the machine and disconnect the AC power.
Pull out the hopper.
Pull the MPU board and take a look at the plug and sockets that the MPU board plugs into the motherboard and check for bent pins.
Also take a ruler or another flat device and sweep under the motherboard to make sure there are no loose coins under there.  Also look around the cabinet for loose coins.
Take a good look at the motherboard to see if there are any obvious burnt traces, and make sure all of the plugs are seated correctly on the motherboard.
While the CPU tray is out, inspect it for any burnt traces or broken components.

If you can post some detailed pictures of your machine, in and around the Motherboard, MPU board, inside door, and inside top cabinet, it would be helpful.  :211-

Turn off the power
Pull the hopper
On the motherboard (perm board not the removeable one) there is a large Molex connector.
You will notice some browning/burning on this large connector.
Pull the connector. Take a white eraser or some emery paper and clean the pins.
Put the connector back on, perhaps 3/4 of the way.
Leave the hopper out.
Turn on the power
- did the machine come back to life ? if not wiggle the connector, press it down.
Once it looks good turn off, replace hopper, turn on.

When you get around to it. Get a new connector.

Also, with the machine unplugged, check for any loose coins/washers/screws/etc. that could be under the motherboard or inside the power supply from being moved around during shipping, causing shorts.

I pulled and cleaned the molex connector with 600 grit sandpaper, it was oxidized but not burnt. I also cleaned all other connections on mother board, inspected all prongs to assure correct alignment, and ran a spatula under the mother board to remove any foreign objects, but it was fine. Also, I checked all the prongs on the MPU and they are fine and clean.

Still no change :103-  :25-  :8-

The last pictures were of the CPU, here is the mother board

The upper cabinet is empty, with the exception of a flourescent, I dont know if that affects anything?.  The other picture is behind reel three, it appears as if something is missing from the back wall?

This is picture of machine turned on with hopper running. The second picture is bottom cabinet with cpu removed.

Not that this will solve all of your problems, but I'd take the time to unscrew the three screws that hold the motherboard in place to double-check for any spare metal/coins/etc. under the board.

Your top box looks normal.  Does that molex plug from the candle match any of the plugs in the top box  (in particular, the one that's sticking up in the air along the back wall)?  If so, plug 'er in.

I would start by checking to make sure the battery is correct.  meaning that it installed properly, polarity wise.

in your case, given what the machine is doing, I have to think that the cpu is going nuts, has everything turned on.

clear the machine and see what happens,  you have absolutely nothing to lose and everything to gain.



Jim
 

I concur!  :212-

When you have the motherboard out, look underneath on the bottom  (and top) of the motherboard also to make sure there are no burnt or broken circuit traces.  :209-

Your Bill acceptor light is on also.  :103-  When you power up the machine, does the bill acceptor make any cycling noises before the yellow bar lights up?

Thanks Knagl, the top candle connector did match up.  I hooked it up and now it lights.

The bill acceptor does cycle at start-up, then it stops, but the little red light stays on. I have put bills into the acceptor and some bills go in and come out fairly quickly and other bills will go in and stay in for a little longer time period, then it is ultimately rejected. It almost appears as if the bill acceptor wants to give credits, but doesn't know what to do, so it sends it back out.......

Jim,

I checked the polarity of the battery and it is soldered the correct direction. I tested the voltage of the battery and it is 0, but when I reversed polarity, I then got a deflection on the meter.

Can I test the +VB (diode?) on the board?

Brian

Here is a picture of the battery. 

When tested in circuit, the +VB reads 5 Ohms, and 100 Ohms reversed.

I pulled the mother board off, checked for any foreign debris under board, did a visual check on prongs and circuitry, all appears to be good.
 
Also, I just purchased One IGT S-Plus Clear123 chip and One Bill Validator Set15 Chip, but after reading posts on this forum, I just realized I may have purchased the incorrect items. My game prom reads SP731 and my reel prom reads 7846, both numbers are hand-written on little red stickers(pics above). Does anyone know if this is the correct chip set for resetting my machine?

Is the candle blinking, and if so... Fast, Slow, Top, Bottom or both?

Your bill acceptor seems to be activated.

If the Battery has zero volts across it, then you will need to replace it before the machine will work correctly. If your LED's were working it would be displaying an Error 12.
The diode that is next to the battery that says VB+ on it, is not part of the battery circuit.  It is an over-voltage protect (12 Volt) Zener diode that is part of the VB+ Supply.
As long as it is not shorted, that diode should be fine.

There is a Filter Capacitor across the D2 Zener diode circuit.  If the capacitor has any hint of a charge on it, your resistance reading will not be accurate.
Again,  that diode has nothing to do with the Battery.  :60-

Let us know what is lit up or blinking (top, bottom or both) on your candle so we can determine what state the machine is currently in.

Also check for a loose or hanging harness plug connection to your LED board on the door. 

Both lights(white/yellow) on the top candle are constantly lit(not blinking), after the machine goes through a quick diagnostic(startup).  The candle comes on just about the same time the hopper, coin acceptor,   and the solenoid on the pull-arm are activated, but there is no sound to be heard, only one time since ownership did I hear one "ding", and I even got kinda excited......

Both lights on steady would indicate that the game is disabled.
You will need to replace your MPU battery and also check your LED door wiring.
The LED diagnostics will be a big help.

I really feel like something is shorted, causing all of the lights to be on and the hopper to run continuously.  His machine is not exhibiting normal behavior (at least, that I've ever seen).

knaql,

If this was your machine, what would be your next step?  I would love to get this machine going, since it is my first machine, but if repairs exceed replacement, then plan B is ok with me........

Repairs won't exceed replacement by a long shot.  I'd guess that your MPU board and/or motherboard is fried, and I'd try putting in a pair of known working boards.  I haven't been in the market for either lately, but I'd hazard a guess that each board should set you back around $30.  If something is indeed shorted out, it's possible that your door optics have gotten blown out, too.  That's another $10 to $20.

Aside from that, there's really not much else that could be wrong with the thing (maybe the display board is fried, too, but I'd start with a known good pair of working MPU and motherboards).  S+ machines are tanks, and they're pretty simple machines, too.  I think it'll well be worth your while to get some replacement parts and get this thing up and running.

With the power cord unplugged, have you taken the cover off of the power supply to ensure that there aren't any coins/washers/bolts/etc. in there causing a short?

You may very well be correct. I am just attacking this thing in a logical order, and trying not to jump to any conclusions without proof.
One fact is that the machine will not operate correctly with a dead battery.
A dead battery would not cause the hopper to run, or the display to be blank, but those are separate issues.

If he had a spare MPU board, then I would agree that would be the First thing he should try swapping out.  :89-


 

Brian,
I agree with Kevin on trying a new MPU board.  Would not hurt to have a spare anyway.   :212-
Never a bad idea to check for loose coins around the machine, but the fact your fuses are all good and you have denomination and button lights and stiff reels, your MAIN power supply is fine.
The LED display gets it's supply from a rectified source on the MPU board.  If all your cables are secure on the LED board, then this is another reason to try another MPU board.

I will take everyones advice and get a replacement MPU Board.  I searched ebay and websites, but the cheapest board I could find was $125.00 at Ohio Gaming.  Does anyone have any suggestions as to a cheaper source? So, I will replace MPU first, then if no fix, replace motherboard and possibly LED display board last?

When I checked the battery on my board it registered 0 on the volt meter. Should I bother replacing the battery and /or sending to a company to have MPU checked, or just scrap it?

Finally, I did a bad thing on my last effort finding answers to my problem.  I noticed that my reel prom was sitting in the carriage crooked, so I pulled it out, inspected prongs, and replaced it backwards by mistake :25-   I realized it was backwards because everything on my machine was the same, but the hopper quit running. I re-inserted the reel prom the correct direction and everything is back to the wayit was, but have I now ruined this reel prom chip??  :25-

You're probably ok if you are getting the same symptoms as before....but one has to wonder, how long was it inserted like that????

If you are buying a replacement MPU, then no need to buy a battery just yet for the suspect MPU. Don't throw away that MPU until it is absolutely, positively ruled out as the source. You will not be happy with yourself if the cause is found to be something other than MPU....

Post a WTB ad in the classifieds section of this forum stating that you're looking for a 10mhz S+ MPU board and an upright motherboard. I imagine you'll be able to get both for less than the price you found for the MPU alone.

 :212-
It is also possible that one of the EPROMS may have been bad all along.   :103-
I would also recommend picking up a new set (GAME and REEL) of EPROMS along with the MPU board while your at it, just to cover your bases.  :89-
Two more that may come in handy are the "SET and CLEAR" Chips.   :71-