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Good morning all. I just purchased an "only partially" working Video KENO machine by Sigma.

When powered on, is says the following:


OK, this machine looks pretty clean all things considered. It is a model name POKER HR-IM model# I2211

The sticker on one of the chips on the MOBO said: KENO 0001 C.S. 39D1 L88-1956-02

The sticker on the MOBO access panel which is partially in Japanese, the English of it says:
POKER HR-IM
"serial number"
I2211
TC-V614HC
HO-IP
VH B52-2c

I replaced the battery thanks to the folks at batteries+, its a touch higher voltage (6v Lithium) from the 5.5v that came in it but I don't think it'll hurt anything.

I've tried the keyed reset switch but is doesn't do anything nor does briefly shorting the leads to the switch (bypassing the switch, should it be faulty)

I've also temporally removed the chip that I believe contained the game on it, but once replaced, the same message appeared.

None of the recently replaced buttons on the front are illuminated or responsive either.

The internal fan which I just replaced is not spinning (I hooked it up correctly!) and the red LEDs on the two power supplies (5v and 12v) are not illuminated.

How do I bring this machine back to life? If it is possible, how complicated is it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'd love to get this working again.

this is certainly odd.  The fact that you are getting a display with intelligence would suggest that the cpu is running. but you stated that the red LED for both the +5 and+12vdc are out. NORMALLY when the power supply is good those LEDS are lit. The only way to know for sure is to measure the voltage coming from each supply.  I can't remember the wire colors, but there should be a white and black attached to the input lugs (115vac in), and two wires coming out, Usually red for +5vdc and a ground (black) not sure about the +12vdc color wire but the set up is the same as the +5vdc. GIVING THIS SITUATION I WOULD MAKE SURE BOTH POWER SUPPLIES ARE GOOD BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE. With them working you will never get the game to operate.

the fan and all the lamps run off the +12vdc.  Usually by turning the reset switch you can clear that message on the screen.

Some times I have had to make a change in the settings to get the cpu to reset and get back to normal. There are two sets of DIP switches on the board (some versions took out the DIPS and hard wired the selections)  when you change one of the DIPS and re apply power the message on the display will change to show what you are wanting to change, follow the instructions (turn reset key to effect the change) and usually this will clear the prompt.

Hope this helps

Jim     

Hey,

This was one of the first machines that I acquired.  I do have extra top and bottom glass if anyone wants it.  Machine long gone now. My memory is shot, but I think a combination of the reset keys(reset and meter at same time), i think will clear internal meters and stats., and maybe some other things.  Could be different combination.
 
Richard

Thank you both for your replies, when I get home I'll see what I can figure out. I am kinda handy with a multimeter. As for turning more than the reset key at once to clear things, I guess I'll have to disconnect the leads inside the maching because I only have one key and it can't be in two key holes at the same time.

Richard (Ricker), I could be interested in the extra glass you have, let me know how much money you'd want for them and maybe we can work something out.

Note* I am a semi-poor college student. I got lucky and picked up this KENO machine and an IGT Poker 5-game with stands for $75

All right, so this what I found, plus some other less than necessary info related to the machine.

I tested the power supplies, the 5v supply was putting out 5.14v but no red LED on, the 12v was putting out 0v and as you'd guess no red LED. So I opened up the 12v... many of the caps had blown. at the same time I looked at the 5v sure enough one had blown there too. SO a trip to RadioShack. I bought enough caps to replace all in the 12v and 1 to replace in the 5v. Put it all back together and... and... no change  :103- (even the LEDs are still out) $15 well spent :25-

I'll tell you fixing this thing is posing to be more of a challenge the the modern LCD TVs of today.

Any recommendations as to where I might get a working 5v and 12v power supply for this machine?

Also a side note, I was looking to fine a local retailer of the fluorescent lamp in the marquee, the 10w 1" diameter 13" long one. Found it, and installed it but no light... swapped the starter around since the machine has 3, needless to say it's not a starter issue. Any suggestions?

I purchased a 5v and a 12v power supply. Hopefully they will both arrive next week and I can continuing diagnosing my issues with known good power supplies.

I'll keep you all posted

Got the 5v power supply, tested and working :3- also received the 12v... not so working :60- I think in the manufacturing process, a cap inside was reversed because within 5 seconds of applied AC, a loud "POP" was heard and bits of capacitor shot everywhere. It shot off with so much force it slightly dented the power supply housing and deformed the capacitor casing (see pic). Let this be a lesson to those that re-cap power supplies, circuit boards etc... DON'T SOLDER THEM IN BACKWARDS!!!

I digress. Blown supply sent back and ordered another one. Let the shipping waiting game commence... again  :8-

I will date myself a bit....Most power supplies autoswitch these days.

I shipped a load of PCs to our Swiss office. I ensured that the 120/220 switch was set to 220 before I boxed them.
My european assistant presumed I didn't know there was a power difference and flipped the switch.

There are two large caps in these power supplies. They went off like a double barreled shotgun and he landed on his ass.
Dinted the power supply chassis just as you described.

He only did it once......

 :3-
Thank you all for the guidance.
As of today, I have a working Super Action Keno machine :89-

the total of work I put into this thing was a new fan, battery, 5v and 12v power supply.

about $50 of parts, not bad,

For anyone who cares, yes, the machine will come up with that initial test screen without a functional 12v power supply. I guess the 5v is enough to produce a picture on the screen.

Now just got to get the top ballast to work for full lights, but that is purely aesthetic.

Thanks all again and I am pleased to be a part of  :nlg-