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I have a Jennings J400 very similar to "ramegoom's". My problem is as follows: The machine was working at about 80%. lights, coin excepter and everything were fine. Just the reels wouldnt stop spinnng after the coins were inserted and the handle was pulled. Took out the main board and cleaned off the corroded area and replaced the battery, then went through and replaced the problem components to the best of my knowledge. Did not move any wires or make any changes inside the cabinet. When I put the main board back, NOTHING but the fluorescent lights worked. I used the transformer wiring schematic as a reference and my findings were as follows. My findings are in bright red. I was careful not to loosen or damage any wiring, but obviously something went wrong.

for spinning reels your trouble is bad reel relay small black box on rear or cabinet  should have 4 wires on it , they go bad a lot we had alot of these games in  mid 80,s total headaches  but cheap around 200 each back then

That couldn't possibly have anything to do with the change in  voltage could it?

i can,t see all the red numbers  clearly  but that 36 v where it should be 24 is not good  ,i have not touched a  s/sjenning since late 80,s , only the mech ones that i still have , i hated them, was a bally 800,s guy here  809 873 831 ect
again good luck

Thank you for your response

Are you getting an "Insert Coin" light? If the reset keyswitch is on the reset position, the reels won't spin when you pull the handle. The machine will just sit there and do nothing. Fluorescent lights are independent of the slot controls so they'll always work if there is power.

Does your logic board have a battery or does it have the cap fix? Removing the battery if it's in might help.

I can't understand how a transformer can put out more than it's designed to do. You might be seeing noise on your meter. Try using an analog voltmeter to check voltages on the terminal strip.

I will check the voltage with an analog meter and post as soon as i have the findings. Thanks

I don't think the 24V supply is regulated, so 36V off load wouldn't surprise me. The 5V supply should of course be 5V all the time.

Thank you for the feedback Op-Bell. I wasn't quite sure how that worked, I know that anytime I've checked random power supplies for other electronics, the voltage was never the same as the listed output printed on the supply.

If you put an AC supply through a rectifier into a smoothing capacitor, but don't draw any current out, the capacitor charges up to the peak value of the AC, which is root-2 (1.414) times the mean. So a 24V supply, unloaded, will get up to 34V or so. Nothing to worry about, it's always designed to take it.