New Life Games Tech Forums

 During a chassis change, my 1492 CRT was upside down;  I Followed the yoke wires to the plug on the board (4 wires) I swaped the left 2 and the picture was now inside/out. I swapped the right 2 (as looking straight at the plug) and the picture was now perfect. I removed the pins on the respective wires from the plug using a paper clip by compressing the little v that hold the pins in; the wires easily came out-  when swapping, I pulled out just a bit that little v cut out on each pin so it held good when reinserting. The swap was easy. Here are 2 pics of what I had and did;

Nice post!

I'm going to have to do this in the near future and figured that there's got to be a better way than cutting and splicing wires.

 Thanks! this is the way to go! If you get the paper clip in the right spot, the wire lifts right out. Make sure you discharge the CRT tube before touching anything down there, you may have to do it several times, each time you power up and remove the monitor.! when I took mine out, I made a discharge tool- but there was no "pop" at all at the flyback tube connector. -but just to be safe, always do that!  Hook it up initially after putting in the new chassis and take a look at the picture.- Then you know where you need to go!

Please note if the picture is upside down after you replaces the CRT. It is probley your fault. a lot of 1492 monitors had the CRT installed upside down to move the Second Anode away from user controls and prevent death during coin fills. In most cases you just need to rotate the crt 180 deg.

 Actually, this was not a CRT replacement but a chassis swap to a new rebuilt one.  Never did a tube replacement yet, don't you need special equipment on a new CRT to adjust it all and get the right rotation/colors?  Someone on the older site had this upside problem and turned the monitor upside down and it shorted out the entire board as he claims it was to close to the metal housing.  It would be great if you or someone could post the exact steps required to replace an old tube with a new one.  I have some burn in (common I guess) but overall when the machine is on, doesn't look bad....but one day I would like to put a new tube in it.  Are there 2 types of tubes to buy, one totally just glass and one with the yoke already installed?  on my chassis replacement, it was upside down initially, then inside out- swapping the 4 wires (2 at a time) fixed it! thanks!

ps> I also have a photo of someone who replaced the 1492 CRT with a lcd, the picture is awesome.  He was somewhere out of the country and came up with a controller etc..I'll try to find the pic!

If the picture is upside down, you need to reverse the vertical deflection yoke leads. Usually these are the brown and yellow wires coming from the yoke on the back of the CRT to the deflection plug on the PCB. If the picture is backwards after reversing the vertical yoke wires, reverse the red and blue (horizontal yoke wires).  I don't claim to be video poker machine tech but I have been a TV tech for 35 years. I just replaced a CRT in a Ceronix 1492 as well as the vertical output IC and the green video amp IC. the game worked flawlessly until I changed the memory battery on the video processor board labeled (MK 2.5) now I get a message (call attendant, metering error) I don't have a remedy for resetting the memory as of yet ! P.S. you can get a new CRT (with the yoke) from Suzohapp.com

The last time I checked with SuzoHapp, they did offer a direct replacement monitor for the ceronix 1492 monitor, complete with yoke, just install on the chassis and plug it in.

Yes Suzo Happ has the correct CRT with the yoke, but a little pricey around $318.00. The deflection yoke plug they have is too long and won't fit on the PCB. I took a small paper clip and opened it up and next to each wire going into the plug there is a little square opening. You insert the paper clip there at the top, push down and  pull out the wire, pry out the metal lock tab and insert it in the old plug, wire for wire. Also be careful when removing the anode lead (red high voltage wire) from the old CRT if it was powered up recently, there will be voltage stored in the CRT because it acts like an electrolytic capacitor. To discharge it, take a jumper wire approximately a foot long with alligator clips at each end and a long thin screwdriver with a insulated handle. With the power disconnected from the monitor, connect one alligator clip to the chassis and the other to the screwdriver (towards the handle). Slide the screwdriver tip under the suction cup on the CRT (that has the red wire going into it) SLOWLY until you hear an arc, hold the screwdriver there for a couple of seconds to make sure it is completely discharged. Also there is ground and Degauss wire on the old CRT, swap them over accordingly. After completing the swap and checking all your connections, power up the monitor. If you have an issue with the picture being upside down and reversed, turn off the monitor and remove the power. Remove the deflection plug from the PCB and reverse the (vertical yoke wires) those would be the wires on the left side of the plug (in your picture above), then reverse the red and blue wires ( horizontal deflection) on the right side of the plug (in your picture above.) Once powered up again if you have issues such as the picture being too dark or too bright (with white diagonal retrace lines) You have too little or too much screen voltage. Follow the high voltage lead (red wire) from the CRT to the flyback transformer. There are two potentiometers there, (adjustments) marked (screen and focus) In the Ceronix 1492 service manual showing a view or reference to the CRT PCB. Look for the pin on the the back of the CRT PCB marked G1 or G2. With a DMM set to DC voltage measure the voltage of G1 (screen voltage). (Refer to the proper voltage setting in the manual), if is is not correct adjust the screen voltage potentiometer on the flyback transformer to the proper voltage.(note the screen voltage potentiometer (might have glue on it REMOVE IT FIRST). The picture should now look good with no retrace lines. If the picture is out of focus, adjust the focus potentiometer while looking at the picture until it is in focus. 

how about colors incorrect?    I am using  Ceronix 1492 D  chassis and the colors do not match -  using on BALLY PRO V5500 poker -  when I do the color bar test function -  none of the colors are correct - can this be corrected by moving YOKE wires too?   What is the difference between 1492 and 1493 monitors?   seem that I have one pro with a 1493  - ones that I got in that had bad monitors were 1492 G  1492 H  XX92 H etc.  Got all of the chassis fixed by Ceronix.