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Don't know If I should start a new topic or not. Had a very long topic with my Triple Double Diamond, bringing it from a lot of parts to a semi working machine. You guys helped me a lot and I was gone to give up on it, but I just can't!! No quitter. Here's where I am at today.
Old wiring harness was just not right, letting only the 10 play button to light up. Found a few loose wires in the harness and I guess I arched one to the frame, causing a" POP " inside the machine. Also was getting a coin-in jam error. Now I have ordered and installed a new harness, with the door I/O boards and now all the buttons are lit. Now I key chip it and brought the 7 fig up, but can not get into it. any or all the keys do not work and even the button on the board will not do anything. Is my board fried? Do I need a new coin- optic? What to do?
Thanks

are there any credits on the machine? All credits must be cashed out to key chip it. If credit count is zero and you're having this problem, turn the machine off and try again. If the problem persists, try a clear then key

 :205- :259-

I seem to remember from your last thread that you had to add in the multiline display and wire harness you may have it hooked up wrong. The plug from the machine that goes to the I/O card should go into the outer I/O card that is mounted strait up and down (the one closest to you as you are looking at it). Also the ten buttons should not light up during key chip config.

No credits on machine. Used the clear chip and procedures the machine comes to the " 7 key chip configuration " and that's as far as I can go. Spin button max bet button all buttons does not work. Even the reset button on the board will not work.
This problem occurred BEFORE I changed the wiring harness. At that time when POP occurred, it showed a " Coin-in Jam " 
Thanks for all your help

It seems to me that you have a problem with one of your I/O cards. If you haven't already, try reseating them, just make shur the power is off first they are very sensitive. If you can post a picture of the door area where your I/O cards are located and also pull the I/O cards and post the part numbers. If the problem was just with your coin optics you should still be able to use your buttons in keychip config, you could completly unplug the coin mech to make shure its not shorting out and somehow messing up your I/O card.   

ok will do. Question Shouldn't the reset button on the board work, even if the buttons don't?

here pict. Both I/O cards are the same 75427802. This problem occurred with the old harness. I did purchase a players panel with the harness and two I/O boards. Same part number. Unplugged the coin-op and comp. nothing. Should the test button work anyway?

Ok I can plainly see that you have it wired wrong the wire hardess coming out from the machine should be pluged into the I/O card that is mounted strait up and down tha wire harness from the display should be going to the I/O card that is at an angle.     

Here is what mine looks like

Removed coin-op...still nothing. Switched the door I/O cards around, still nothing, but now I only get part of the buttons to light The Service, Cash out, spin reel and Max bet buttons.
Buttons 1 line through 9 lines and play 1 thru play 10 are now NOT lit.
Still will not go into the 7 key chip menu.Any more ideas, please

Well at least now you have it hooked up right and the proper buttons are lighting up. After doing the key chip when 7 key chip config is up on the display the only buttton that has any function is the spin reels. I would pull the button assy from the bottom and try pushing the little red button on the micro switch (if it doesn't click you know it's bad). Also check to make shure it is wired NO (normaly open), you could also try to jump the wires. Also you might want to look at or try the original I/O that was in the machine at an angle I think it should be a different P/N but I won't be able to tell you for shure untill Monday.   

Micro switch under the Spin button. It clicks, test good with meter. Checked it three times all looks to be good. All wiring looks to be correct. Since the re-set button on the MPU will not activate or really do anything, I pulled the board out and looked for anything burnt, since I heard the "pop" thought a capacitor or something burned out. Please look at the cap on the right side...the black on the leads. Does this look like it may be a problem. Hopefully Monday things will be better. Thanks

The lead that is black is on the diode, this is not generally an issue.
 Let me try to understand a few things. First never change or unplug anything when the power is on, this is the quickest way to fry components. Always power down the machine any time you are thinking about unplugging anything in the machine.
 OK you changed out the door panel wiring harness and the IO cards. While you were changing the harness a wire shorted and you heard a pop. Was the pop in the cabinet or on the door or couldn't you tell?
Since then, and this is where I am fuzzy, If you try to boot the machine it will go through the motions but no go. If you press the MPU button does it go into the '1.0 accounting' mode on the display and then you can't do anything from there because the panel buttons don't work? Or when you press the MPU button nothing at all happens on the display? What does the display say when it boots up if you do nothing with the door closed?

Learned a few months ago to power down before changing anything. It sounded like it was in the machine...I had the belly door open and was looking at the loose wiring when it occurred. But it is hard to tell. Today with door closed it shows (1) Testing memory, (2) call attendant, closure M and coin-in jam. Also no button lights (when power up with door closed) MPU reset will do nothing
 I did get the reset key to show accounting, but can go no further.
I did change the coin-op out but it changed nothing.

Look at the last 4 digits of the part numbers on the IO card circuit boards, they should be 7802. If they are, then swap them with each other and see what you get. If one is or both are 7801 cards then you have a wrong card or cards

Almost sounds like the door close optics are not plugged in or need adjustment after button deck replacement

Door optics wouldn't effect menu access through the test switch on the MPU

Check the pins where the MPU connects to the backplane and pins on the I/O cards also wondering when you open the door does it change from closure M to door open M

Both I/O cards do end in 7802. Did swap nothing different.
Door optics do line up.
All pins on MPU look straight.
Open and close door, can see the change from Closure M to Door open M.
Now that I have removed the MPU, the "Coin-in Jam" shows up.

I only have two (10) button machines and both of them use two different IOs  801 is installed between the inner panel and belly glass,  802 to the hopper side.

I finally got a chance to look at mine today and it uses an 801 and a 802 as well. 

Is your machine a 9 line pay.. paly 180 credits like mine is? This machine has 10 buttons for betting

The machine I was looking at was a 10 button triple diamond 9 line 45 credit I'm pretty shur the only difference between a 45 credit and 180 credit is the SB chip 

I have two 10 button machines one 45 credit one 90 credit both have two 802 I/O cards.
So that is not the problem.

Rich

I wonder if the type of MPU and backplane makes any difference mine is the old style are your machines 044 Rich ?

Old style also.
I converted  both machines from 3 to 5 reel so I do not know what game the button decks came from.
They are now operating a 5 reel Double Diamond Spin 90 credit and a 5 reel  Three Times Pay 45 credit.  All with 802 I/O cards only.

Jacker
Have not forgotten about you. I know you do not have an endless supply of parts so lets try the last known semi working
condition
You said now the coin message is back the mpu reset is still inop?  (Hold in for a good five seconds)
If still no go put the old original I/O cards in. Reboot and see what happens.
If no change there put the old original harness back in with the old I/Os.
If it goes back to what you had (a playable game with deck lights inop)
Just try using the new I/O cards.
Did you say you replaced the entire button deck and harness orjust the harness?
The pop you heard may still be a key issue but I'm trying to get you back to
 where we were before the mpu button stopped working.

 I did replace the entire button deck which had the harness attached. I have tried my other set of door I/O cards, but nothing. Holding the MPU button in for 5 - 7 seconds (twice) will bring up the  #1 accounting, but it will go no further. Other than this, the buttons will not do a thing. Close door and the coin-in jam displays.
The POP, could it be the MPU board? I do have a spare.
I will try the wiring harness swap this evening, however that harness would not work before I changed it out.
The coin comparator show a green light, but could this be my problem

Coin comp should have a green light. This is normal. I know that you had tried unplugging it but if you do that I believe you need a plug with a jumper plug to be installed where the comp was plugged in.
The comparitor  should just pop out of it's mount.
Have you pulled it out to make sure it does not have a coin or something else stuck in it?

Yes, pulled it out you can see straight through it. Green light blinks when coin passes through it. The coin will go to the "bank" not to the coin tray or to the hopper. Is that right with a coin-in jam error?

I think one of the problems here is you folks think a coin error in a S 2000 has to be something to do with coin handling, that's not true. Couple of years ago I had one with a coin error and it turned out to be the 9 line display ( behind the reel glass) was the problem. Matter of fact I still have the machine and it still has a 5 line display, guess one of these days I should fix it. In one picture you had the wrong IO plugged into the 9 line display, will that damage the 9 line display ?  I don't know, but it's something to think about. If you don't have another 9 line a 5 line will work.

I have had coin errors in machines that didn't even have coin handling.

9 line display was working until the short or POP occurred. It did work with the I/O boards reversed from what they are today. Wat back, this had a coin-in Jam and there was not set up with coins. This is very, very confusing. Anybody know a tech in the Fort Worth area that I can take this machine to?

I've hooked up the 9 line display wrong before and had no damage (but that doesn't mean that it isn't the problem). I think I have also had the same error when the digital display (not the VFD) was bad on an older vision ready machine, after a similar short in the button harness.     

Changed harness / buttons / players deck back to original....Nothing changed. Problem must be somewhere else. Guess I will Change out MPU board in  morning,      unless someone has another idea.         Maybe just maybe something on it is burnt out.
Thanks

Yep,  :205-

Jacker - Just for kicks, can you check your settings in your menus (I think you can view these without a clear or key chip). If machine is set-up for coins (Coinless Mode is OFF), you will get Coin-In Jams. Occurs in S2000 and I-Games/GameKings. If machine is NOT set to Coinless, it will keep looking for coin accept and hopper, and error out when it does find them.

Trouble is I can not get any buttons to work so I can't check anything out!

Let's check something before you play with the board.
With the machine on open the door put a volt meter on the yellow wire connected to the max bet micro switch.
(Or any of the micro switch yellow wires going to a button).
Attach the negative volt meter wire to the frame(ground)
Do you have 12 volts?

Damn it buzz I think you are correct again.
I unplugged the display for the bets per line on my  machine and no shit I got " coin in  jam' on my screen.
Jacker you might want to replace the display for the bets per line display.
That display should have a small green led near the white plug indicating it is getting power.
If your lucky Roz will have one 30% off.

Might just be your lucky day jacker...

And I second the "Damn you Buzz" comment....o

Roz  If I was you I would play nice,  Monday morning about 1 AM I will be going by pretty close to your house. ( I can detour right by your house ) This is NO BS I have a set of Train horns on my truck.  Do I need to say more ????  Darrell will be pissed at both of us, but he's gonna have to catch me and he's already got you.     :200- :97-

That was damn it not damn you

Oh I'm sorry, biscuits and gravy aren't served until 5am! Besides, you don't want to know want to know what happened to the last guy Darrell caught.... :97- :97- :97-

I will listen for the train horns though...

He ain't a gonna catch me, it don't take me all day to herd cows three hours.

I have to be in Sacramento in the wee hours Monday and take a carnival ride to Ventura. Ride will be in Ventura until the wee hours of the 12th and off to Bosie I go.

Voltage at the yellow with red tracer on spin button looks to have 10.56 volts. Setting was at 20 V on my meter. Probably not a good meter. Bet per line display DOES have the green lite on. Any wy to check it with out the use of the buttons

Voltage OK
Green led just means it's getting power.
I don't know how to test other than to put it in another machine.
Check the plugs , pins and wires going to and from this display carefully.

I have a BAD 9 line display that the green light comes on on it. There is no way I can say for sure that your 9 line display is the problem here, I think it is but can't be positive. The digital display may be the problem. Back track a little bit, in your other thread you said the 9 line display the first and third lines didn't work anyway. This tells me no matter what you need a new one, if that's not the problem whats another 25 bucks. If someone told you owning a slot machine was a cheap hobby they lied to you ! Owning or playing their going to get your money.

 You say you heard a popping noise, I have never had a capacitor blow, but I would think it would make a popping noise. Remove the four screws holding the  digital display and inspect it for damage.


Now you keep going back to the buttons don't work, the machine is in a tilt ( error ) a whole lot of things will not work until the tilt is cleared, I was supprised when you said the Green light was working on the coin comparator.

I don't think in this case this is going to work but with the main door closed, lift and lower the main door latch 3 or 4 times. Maybe I should explane, A S 2000 will clear one error each time the latch is opened and closed. And only one error at a time, if you have more than one error you need to do this a few times. Just lift the latch wait a couple of seconds and make sure you lower it all the way down.

Good Luck

Buzz
I did order a 9-line display, today. Looking the board over, I seen a black spot on one of the pieces leads. May sound crazy, but this small piece smells like burnt plastic. Sending a pict. of it just for !! Let you know in a few days if this is it or not. Thanks

That's not crazy at all...the smell is very distinct on a fried component. Good thought to smell it...the nose knows!  :72-

I've had this problem on a s2k coin slot machine. It's been a while but if I remember correctly I unplugged the 5-5-2 display and the buttons would work and was able to scroll through the options. I'll have to read the book when I go back to work to see for sure.

It's something messing with the netplex.

HEY bUZZ
It worked (the 9 line display). Went thru the setups and Got all to work except the WAMM. Would I have to put the Keychip back in to get this set? From the Key 7 menu, I can get to it, but can not change it, it says Version unknown. Thanks

Jacker,
As I recall you have 362 chips. In order to set WAMM you will have to use your clear chip.
Go back through your first post when you were having trouble setting wamm.

Rich  I don't use 362 so I'm talking out my A$$  but many times I've read the only time you have to use a clear is to set or change the accounting denom.

The 362s suck, you have to set  the 7.1.4 to WAMM and your right you may get away with just a key.

Key chip Jacker just a key
sorry

Will try key chip in morning. Thanks Guys

Tried Key Chip, Can not get the WAMM still says Version unknown. Guess I'm gona Clear chip it again. Will see what happens

Should not need clear. Confirm no credits on the machine and key should let you into 7.1.4
When it is at unknown you should be able to toggle from unkown to WAMM. then save with play max button. 

Here is a quote from wireless when he was having trouble setting WAMM.


" Here's the deal, when I saw the "Version unknown" I went back to the previous menu.  Well, thats not what you have to do.  When that message was displayed I had to hit the "spin reel" button to navigate to "WAMM" and from there you select the max bet button.  I guess I should have played around with this more before posting but hopefully this will help someone else out."

Have the WAMM set. But now I am getting a " Ten Button I/O card not found" A few post ago, someone told me the door I/O cards were reversed. I did reverse them. Maybe, just maybe they should go back to the original I had them ?

As long as both cards are 7802's it shouldn't matter. If they're mismatched 7801/7802 then it would make a diffrence

Don't forget S2K only clears one error at a time. Have you lifted the door handle, waited a few seconds and then lowered again. Do this a few times to be sure.

Switched the cables around on the door I/O cards. It is now WORKING with quarters. The bill acceptor is not working, but I'll start a new thread like you said and see if someone can help with this. It's been a long two months on this machine, but THANK YOU to all you guys that helped me through this. Now just one more step, the BV. Thanks again.

What type of BV do you have? If you have a WBA put it in test mode or calibrate it to rule out the BV being bad.

Have you gone in inputs/outputs and reinstalled the netplex for the BV?

JCM WBA-12-SS....Test mode is setting dip switch 8 on the  BV Turned on reinserted BV. Nothing. It does initialize when powering up.
I have gone to 4.3 auto - conf. netplex device. nothing will change here.??
I do not know how to calibrate the BV.
The benzel does not light up, could this be the problem

Calibrating the BV is ____^^^^ that's eight through five down and insert in housing. Can't do this if you don't have calibration paper.

Test mode is _^^^____ That's eight down, seven through five up and four through one down. Insert it into the housing and it should cycle just a little bit then press eight up and it will fully cycle. If this works put a bill in it to see what it does.

Press the test button on the CPU and go into Inputs/Outputs. Scroll to the right till you see Netplex devices and hit spin. Scroll to the right till you see the BV and then hit spin and see what it does.

Tried it. nothing. When I power up the Machine, Error code " Bill Validator error" displays, then I open / close door then I can go on to playing with quarters. When trying a bill, it will not do anythign
In test mode and calibration the BV responded briefly. Still no lights in the bezel

Did this BV come with the slot machine? If it did does the BV have a removable chip on the board or is it all one piece?

I had with a S2000 at work that had some of the same problems you been fighting with. The coin hopper was turning backwards, the buttons wouldn't work and when I unplugged one thing they started working but the exit button became the scroll to the right button. I unplugged a few more things and the buttons would work correctly. It would go into a coin-in jam and when I got it to stop that it went into a meter disconnect. After all that it turned out to be the Mother Board/Back Plane. I never checked the BV though so don't know if that was affected.

opps, I quoted myself...LOL

BV came with machine, but the guy I purchased it from put the screws to me on the whole unit. been fighting problems, replacing just about everything, so I just don't know if it is the original or not. The board is all one piece.  Hopper pays out correctly, all buttons work correctly, everything but the BV. I did not include a printer with this unit. Shouldn't there be some lights in the bezel area?

I'm not real good with Tshooting BVs but I do know that you won't get any lights in the bezzel area unless the BV is funtioning and ready to except bills.
Are your bezzel bulbs LEDs? If they are not they are probably burned out anyway, check bulb continuity with ohm meter.
Lets move to your post on BV inop. I think we accomplished what you needed on this post.

Rich

There is a light bar in the door. It's what lights up the green bezel of the transport. That's good it being a one piece board. The transport with the chip in it goes to the S+ only and doesn't work with the S2000. Can you look on the right side of the transport when it has power and see two small lights? I know you know this but I'll say it anyway. For the BV to work all the dip switches have to up ^^^^^^^^. Pull the head out of the transport and blow it out and reseat it to see what it'll do.

Do you have another machine you can put this transport into to make sure it bad?

If not then power the machine off and unplug the 5-5-2 display and power it up and see if the transport will work.

Tech73   The only difference in a WBA 12 and  a WBA 13 is a 12 is flashed programed and a 13 has a eprom for program.  Either one will work in a S 2000 if it's programed IDO24 (IGT)

 jacker  Now your getting like you were with the buttons not working before you replaced the 9 line display. The Yellow light on the front of the BV bezel will NEVER light up until every error ( tilt) has been cleared. Allso if that yellow light is not on it will never except a bill. That is assuming the bulbs are good in the bezel/

Now the BV cycling when you turn the machine only tells you one thing, the BV is getting power. The BV will cycle when the machine is turned on even if the MPU is not in the machine. I would like you to remove the BV and cash can, looking into the BV chassis where the BV goes watch in the very rear floor, while watching install the cash cash can, you should see two small black flags come up out of the floor. Their purpose is to block two sets of optics in the BV transport.  One or both may be broken. ( I don't think this is the problem but it gives you something to do.)  Now remove the hopper and take a look at the wire harness coming out of the BV chassis. This harness will have 4 plugs on the end of it but only 3 of them are used. I have found one wire in that harness was cut. The only reason a wire there was cut is to screw with the next fellow that is going to work on that machine. I'm just saying all slot techs are not Boy Scouts.

Now if your tired of working on this machine and would like to play it for a while, in key menu you can program the machine where one coin will give you $100 credits. You would still be playing it as a 25 cent machine but would be getting your credits using a coin and not a bill.  It's up to you.

My guess....BV is not programmed ID023. Just my 2...

Look for some sticker or identifier on the validator and head. MOST people label or mark them (for their own sanity).


Edit: Just seen your OTHER post on your validator and seen you have ID024, so my guess is no good anymore...but why do you have 2 posts on your validator? It only confuses us...