New Life Games Tech Forums

Hey guys (& gals),

I just snagged a IGT Double Diamond (unsure what type) and although it powered up when purchased, I kinda knew there had to be some issues with it...

Low & behold after getting it home and starting to check it out, first thing I noticed was a 'missing' fuse and some bare/hanging wire on door (bill validator is missing and plugged on door?).

The machine powered up, but only lights lit, no reel spin etc..  Was able to get reels to spin manually and they would continue to spin.

No errors encountered on front panels other than an occassional "0", "3" or "7", but this was random when powering up.

Read this site all day to see what i may be getting into thinking Power Supply, the burnt connector etc..

I stopped & got some fuses and then pulled off the panel w/the mobo from rear of the machine and WOW!

Blown cap (pop off board) and possibly blown power pack...??

I have numerous pictures I'll attach but am hoping you guys/gals can help me out!

Wife is thrilled (seriously she is, it's one of her fav's at the casino's) but bummed its not already working.

Can you help me out??

Need to know if I can get the blown/broken parts or should i get a new board, also can I add a bill validator to this?

Although this is my first 'American' slot, (I have a pachislo but have graduated to 'THIS"  :96- ) I have a feeling this is going to become a new habit...er... Hobby!!

I'm attaching the first 2 pics of the mobo (blown cap & power) and will add the others shortly.

Thanks in advance...
Jim

Additional pics for this topic in question...

Pic of machine

and

inside pic w/Hopper & Mobo removed

More Pics...

Game & Reel chips

And

Bare wires inside door


If there is any info you need to assist me in this, let me know...

You have and S+ slot machine.   You can't do much until that main board gets fixed or replaced.  Also I would make sure the power supply is good before moving on.

S+ main CPU board about $25.00 plus shipping

Coin compairator is for large coin, Dollars.
you will need one for small coin, Quarters, Nickels...
Should be a CC16-D and you will need a now wire harness to the compairator. That's the wires they have twisted together in your picture.

OK. New MPU it will be.  But from what I see on the vendors on main page here is a new S+ for $25 but does not have the transformer.  On ebay, they are $70, 80, 90...  I did find one for $40 w/transformer but am unsure if this is what I need.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-MPU-Board-for-S-Plus-Machine-Newest-version-Part-75509800-LIMITED-OFFER-/130928186401 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGT-MPU-Board-for-S-Plus-Machine-Newest-version-Part-75509800-LIMITED-OFFER-/130928186401)

I called a 'local' slot business about 1 hr from here and they wanted $125/175 for new board and wanted me to leave the machine for them to go over it.

I'm a 'techie' and can do the work, just need guidance on specific parts.

Gposing.. How do i test that?  All I know is the top Fuse was absent when I got it...

NeonKiss..  Thanks for pointing that out.  But can you point me in the right direction for these parts.

For the price I paid for this machine, Im OK with putting some $ into getting it right, I just dont want to be getting the wrong parts or ripped off and want to do this right & learn.  Like I said in first post, I know me and can see me owning more shortly but want to get a feel/grip on the first one and appreciate everyones help!

The board I found for $25.00 did not have the transformer.  Here is the one I found:  http://rudysdeals.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=89&product_id=2292

I would place a WTB (wanted to buy) ad in the classifieds here on the site and ask for a 10mgz MPU, CC16D coin comparator and a new pigtail for the comparator/optics. Would also be wise to check your hopper and see what size coin it is set up for. Where the machine has a 25 cent decal in the window you might get lucky and have a correct hopper for quarters. If not then you'll have to change some parts on that also. As far as the bill validator, yes, you can ad one, but I'd get the machine working on coins first, then tackle the BV issue. When you get the MPU I would also suggest getting a programming chip for it as you will need it to set up denomination and such

good point on the hopper.  I also agree to worry about the BV right now.

Again,

Thanks for the info.  I will post in the WTB for that.  How do I tell about the hopper.

Sorry for all the ??'s but am trying to learn.  Have no issue doing my research but there are sooo damn many variables that my head is spinning (unlike my reals).. LOL

Post a picture of the inside of your hopper.
The hopper wheel has a smaller shelf wheel. This is where the coin will ride on top as the hopper turns. Place a quarter on the shelf wheel when you take the picture and we can see where it sits. Naturally if you have a dollar shelf wheel a quarter will sit too low and will not be picked up by the knife that scoops the coins off the shelf as the wheel turns.

Also if you can post bigger pictures. We can't see a lot of the detail in those small pictures.

i was hesitant on posting full size pics...

They're coming...

Also, just found bare wires under pull arm on inside right...

The green and green/blue wires are from the door switch on the cash can.
Since you don't have a bill validator, you can just connect them and insulate the ends with heat shrink or electrical tape.

If those are quarters in the hopper bowl, they look correct.

yes.. Quarters there. No flash on tablet.

More pics

Pic of coin mech.

If there is a specific pic needed please let me know

Mobo

With all that corrosion around the transformer on the MPU, I would like to see where all that dripped on the motherboard in the back of the machine. It should have a transparent plastic cover to prevent such a mess, but it may have leaked under the cover.

I just enlarged that picture where you have the tray removed and can see the plastic cover over the motherboard.
Now for the bad news.
Take some good pictures of where all those connectors are attached to the motherboard. Not for us, but for you. You will need them when you reinstall that motherboard. Yup, your going to have to pull that one up.

Remove the connectors and the three screws holding it down. Then gently with the blade from a flat head screwdriver lift up each corner by where the pin holder is on each corner. Then the motherboard will come up.
Look for loose coins underneath  and show us how bad the motherboard looks.

I can also see that someone has tried to remove corrosion from the cabinet and has spray painted the insides gray. They did a piss poor job and got over spray on all the wiring. Mechanically, the paint on the wiring is not doing any harm, it's just a key indicator as to who had this machine last and what else they may have done.

One more thing I noticed, after I enlarged the other picture where you said the cap had exploded, I noticed that's not a capacitor.
That was the battery. It leaked and that's what ran down the MPU and corroded the motherboard.

Shopping list:
1) MPU with battery and tray 10 mHz
2) Coin Compairator
3) Coin compairator wire harness.
TBD... Motherboard.


And here is the page from the Game Bible for your machine.
http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Diamond%20(3%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm (http://www.newlifegames.net/igtbible/IGT%203CM/Game%20Library%20-%20S-Plus%20-%20Double%20Diamond%20(3%20Coin%20Multiplier).htm)
We can't tell what SS chip you currently have, but I can get you a 98% chip. You can PM me as I should have all the other parts that you need for that machine.

Not sure where your located or the history of the machine, but all signs point to the machine originating from Mid Ohio Slots.
They warranty there machines for life - "AT MID OHIO SLOT MACHINES WE ARE CONFIDENT IN WHAT WE DO.
YOU WILL NOTICE THAT WE ARE THE ONLY COMPANY THAT GIVES A FULL
LIFE-TIME WARRANTY. (check out our S+ parts department).

Note the 2137 placard over the bill acceptor opening.  Many of their machines have that identical placard and they remove the bill acceptors from the machines.

Might be worth a try giving them a call to see if they will help.  Does the person you got it from have a receipt?

Go Neon and mah! Nailing this one!  :89-

Indeed, where'd you get this one from?

We'll be able to help you get it up and running, but it's gonna take some time and money and parts.  It has every indication that it was sitting in and partially submerged under water.

I agree with the helpful replies you have gotten so far -- you'll need a new upright motherboard, MPU board, and likely a new MPU transformer/tray as well.

As Neonkiss posted above, the yellow/purple/black wires should be going to the coin comparator.  Make sure you get a S+ harness when you order a replacement (small coin) comparator.

The small black plug near those wires just goes to the bill validator bezel (the plastic entry plate) to provide power to the lights that light up when the validator is enabled -- no need to worry about those just now.

Please order your stuff from the vendors who frequent the Classifieds section and/or have a banner ad on the front page of http://www.newlifegames.net/ -- these folks have earned the trust and respect of the community here, and will not screw you over when it comes to the parts you buy.

Good luck!  We'll help you along the way, but it's going to be a little bit of a project with some steps forward and some possible snags along the way.  You will eventually get it up and running with our help though, I'm sure.

Another tip on the motherboard. Two connectors are the same, so
beware they don't get switched (Sorry for the side ways pic).

Ron(r273)

I have NEVER seen a battery fall off the board like that... wow!
There's like a 1/2 ton of solder on those pads!  :72-

mah,

I'm from NE Ohio, about 2 hours from Mid Ohio.  That is who i called about the MPU and they wanted up to $175.  I believe their policy is "Lifetime Warranty" for purchaser....

The guy I got this from said he got it from a friend. Who probably got it from a friend, who obviously let their cat PEE in it as the smell in it is a little rough...

So who really knows.

IMHO, I didnt pay too much for the machine so the $ I have to put into is somewhat expected.

Neohkiss,

Well, after some work (WHEW!) I was able to get the bottom motherboard (or backplane) off.

There were no coins under it, but it was a bit rough, just not sure how rought (see pics).

The first pic is after being pulled out and the 2nd is after cleaning it up a bit.

I'll post others that show possible areas of concern.

More pics of bottom Mobo (backplane)

First is pre-cleaning

2nd is post-cleaning

pics shows my thoughts on possible issues:

I can clean it a little more but the areas I pointed out are forefront.

I would call that toast and get another one.
Even if it works , it will fail.

On a positive note...

The power supply did not look too bad.

There were two tokens in it but looks OK...

:205- :205- :212- :212- :212-

Wash the board with distilled water.  The exposed trace, where the green solder mask is missing is not a big deal.  You can repair it with products such as this:
http://www.pcbsupplies.com/servlet/the-563/Solder-Mask-Repair-Overcoat/Detail (http://www.pcbsupplies.com/servlet/the-563/Solder-Mask-Repair-Overcoat/Detail)

The area where it looks like the solder mask has bubbled or is about to flake is no big deal either. You can repair it with the above or just leave it.
I have a very, very expensive mixing console and on the CPU which is from the mid 80's some of the solder mask has flaked off which is common for this board I have.
When my console was serviced by the best tech in the business, he does console installs and studio design for most of the major recording studios in the US and for many famous musicians, I had him take a look at this and he said, " not a problem, won't effect the functionality" and that it is common.

The tarnished solder pads shouldn't be a problem.  You can get contact cleaner made by CAIG DeOxit D5 to clean these. good stuf to have on hand.   http://store.caig.com/

This is also very good too.  http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TECHSPRAY-1622-10S-/20-2115

If there are any burns on the board then that may be a problem.

Make sure and thoroughly dry your board and let it set for 24 hours before applying power.

Give it a shot.  After cleaning you could have a stable board. 

Eric

Eric is right, other than the fact that it looks nasty, unless you have broken traces, the board should work as it is just passive for the most part.  If you have concerns, you could always use a multimeter to test for continuity on the traces that look messed up.  I for one, would buy an extra board.  S+ parts seem to be fading away, being such an old platform, I stocked up on at least 2 of each for future issues.  I have 6 MPU boards and 2 motherboards, not to mention a couple spare hoppers, about 2 sets of reels, 6 coin comparitors 4 small coin and 2 large coin, a couple of player display boards, a pair of power supplies and various coin and door optics.

Thanks to everyone for their expertise and for guiding me in this!

Truly appreciated!!

Now to get the parts and get this lady spinning!!

I wish you all lived down the street so I could get parts and get this working now because I would then Invite you all over for a beer!!!

Still pending payment.
You sent me a PM requesting the parts, but never sent the payment.
Do you still need these parts? If not I'll un-box them and put them back on the shelf.

Neonkiss,

Sorry about that, got sidetracked but the $ was sent via Paypal yesterday.

OK All,

I did get the MPU from Forrhouse and placed the backplane/motherboard that I had back in along with the MPU from Forrhouse (as well as the coin comp.) but upon powering up, I get nothing on the front LCD's.

The reels get tight and power is being supplied but nothing further.

I am awaiting the shipment of backplane from Neonkiss but other than that, any thoughts?

Thanks!

Jim

Sounds like no power, but we know you do since the reels are stiff.
Ya, wait on the motherboard that I sent and change that too. I also sent you another MPU, but you will need to swap over your game EPROMS.
As you already know, they have to go in with the correct orientation. The MPU shows a notch that needs to match up with the notch on the EPROM. Be sure not to bend a leg on the chip as you insert them into the new board.

Noenkiss,

Got the boards today.. Thank YOU!

But still issues..

I swapped out the backplane and put Forrhouse‘s MPU back in. Same thing.. Power is supplied but now reels are not stiff.

I then put Neonkiss‘s MPU, swapped game & reel eproms to that board... Same thing. Power, no LCD & reels do not go stiff.

Checked all fuses, all good....

Next???

Check the power connector to the motherboard. With power on wiggle the connector and see if the reels get stiff.
Could be a bad connection.

OK. Did that. Reels got stiff.

See reply #8 on this post.
Does your power connector look like this?
I suspect your is just corroded by looking at the other parts from that machine.
By lifting the connector up and down on the pins, it may clean off some of the corrosion.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=22558.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=22558.0)

But still nothing on the display?

Check the connector on the display also.

Power connector... Not burnt.

Considering mpu and backplane I can understand some  corrosion but it appears fine.

I've removed/replaced all connections multi times and no change

If your game operates as it should and you do not have any display's,  there is a plug on the motherboard in the wrong place!  its the six pin plug, it fits into two places, the right place and the wrong place. when its in the wrong place it pulls down the strobe 2 signal and thus no display.


Hope this helps

Jim

The way, im guessing, mid ohio slots or previous owner, have all wires zip tied, I cant see them being reversed.

Attempts to swap the two are futile with the zip ties. I can remove them and swap but they are done everywhere pretty clean so I would expect that their position is correct.

Is there a way to test power supply?  The reason I ask is that if I remove fuse from PS, the door speakers makes aslight ‘crackle‘ and again when fuse is replace.

I obviously know little here so Im grabbing at straws and leaning on all the experts here for guidance!

Damn!!! Icant catch a break!!


Power outage here now due to earlier storms so all I can do now is drink a beer!!

 :140-

You said that like it was a bad thing :103-

well, the power came back on to the house, but the beer was better so I worked on that for a bit!

Anyway, anyone have thoughts on what else I can look @ on this machine?

OK, I'm ready to take this one on again.

I'm thinking you might have some bad chips, so here is what I want you to do next.
Post the chip numbers both reel and game.

I'll install those chips in a machine here and set it up. Then I'll send you a matched and setup motherboard with the CPU chips and all.
At that point you should be able to install the matched set and the game will boot and play with the credits that I leave on it.
Even if your display is shot, the machine should play.

I'll do this this weekend.

Neonkiss,

WOW! Thanks. For a little more info...

I went over each iwire set to see if there were any cracks etc..  The back of the wire harness had the smallest of yellow tinge (burn... not sure) but I cleaned it up, sprayed a deox but nothing.

The front panel coin ($.25) light lights up when powered up.

The chips.... Well here is what I can tell, the ones that were on the board:

REEL EPROM: Only has a "3CDD" sticker
Game EPROM: Only has  a sticker that says "731"

Forrhouse also sent me a game chip with the mobo i purchased from him:

It is labeled: SS3664 / 7C00 / 64k

If you need anything else, let me know

OK,
I have a MPU with a SP731 and a SS3634 chip for your machine. I installed it one of my machines and played the game to be sure everything was working.
I then installed a clear chip and wiped all the previous history. Ran a Set 15 an enabled the bill validator (I know you don't have one now, but the boards will be set up for when you do) and set the machine up as a quarter.

I then played the machine again and stacked 125 credits on the meter. I'm sending you the MPU with the chips and the motherboard. Install both at the same time before powering up. When you apply power for the startup the machine will be ready to play with the 125 credits on the meter. :91-
If it doesn't you have other issues with the machine. :58-

If this works, just send me back the other boards slow boat.  :104-

Neonkiss,

I'm paypal'ing you some $ now to cover shipping.

Got it. thank you.
The postage wasn't necessary, just trying to get you fixed up.
The new box went out today and I included a clear and set 15 chip. You won't need these now, but you'll have them if you ever do.

Neonkiss,

 :293-

Neonkiss,

Thank You! Thank You! Thank you!!

I received & put both the MPU & backplane in and powered her on!

Wheels spun!!! Woot!! Progress!!

The machine is working!!!

Only 2 odd things are¦

On a spin, the middle wheel stops first. Isthis a reversed connection on the reels?

#2¦ with credits on the machine, when coins are inserted, it will only accept 3... Normal? Any coins inserted after 3 drop.

Now thats its working should I interchange MPU & backplane to determine what board / chip is bad?

I purchased MPU from Forrhouse (also sent game Eprom) and both MPU/mobo from Neonkiss & would like to know what in the combo has failed so I know what is bad... 

Thanks to all for their help!

I am indepted to you all for your help!!

Jim

Reels should stop from left to right, 1,2 and 3
If your getting 2,1 and 3 then check and see that the plug into the reel under the shelf is in the correct position.
You must have 2 plugged into reel 1 and 1 plugged into reel 2

As far as coin in goes, yes that is normal. You can only add the credits to the maximum of coin in. In your case that is three.

You can just slow boat the other boards that I sent you back. If you want to mess with them for a week or so that's fine. However don't screw around and break your working machine. Play it for a while and enjoy it before you break it again.




Only kidding....

Neonkiss,

Again, Karma to you!!!!

I just want to know what was bad as I paid $$ for something that may/may not be working!  I'm thinking the reel eprom as that is the only thing from you & Forrkhouse that was not replaced but being a IT geek, I have the passion to know what it is. 

That's the thing about me, I have to know!! I need, in my mind, to know what is wrong so I know in the future!

This little machine has re-sparked my passion on things and I now have my son truly interested in how this works and wanting to now the ins & outs of this!

I will send all parts back in a few days, just have the need to see what failed and get it corrected!!

Im already searching for my next machine to toy aroudn with since my wife is fully engulfed in this one!

Again, Thank You Neonkiss (ESPECIALLY) and Forrhouse and all others for helping a New(b) in rekindling a passion in technical things and for pleasing my wife (without needing a divorce decree!!)

You all kick Ass!!

 :105-

 :244- :244- :244- :244- :244-

Way to go on getting it working, and sticking with it!   :89-


A Karma Storm just rolled through this thread -- I just gave 1 positive Karma to everyone in the thread -- job well done!

 :50- :50- :50- :50- :50-

Next ??

What DBV/cash box do I need?

take your time with what you need to do. I sent you a clear and a set chip, you might not need em but you can start swaping parts and find out if you have anything else thats faulty