New Life Games Tech Forums

I started taking this machine apart that I got a few months ago recently. This is my first slot machine. The only problems it has other than the rust and broken reel glass a few lights and step up unit isn't working. I will post pictures of the work I did on it for help to anyone doing the same and also help from other people who have done this.

Broken reel glass

Door and feature glass off

Super rusty

Door insides

Parts to be re chromed

The belly glass wiring and fluorescents sockets and ballasts had to be removed to have the bottom chrome edge Re chromed. I cut them and marked them to reconnect them later.

..

Really looking forward to the pics when your done.

 I will send you my pics of the Pace 46 Chrome Bell I am doing when I am done as well.

The Fatman

Thanks man me too. I can't wait to see yours too! I know this will probably take me a little bit of time.

I'm having trouble getting the pull lever off

Correct term: Handle assembly. I am having trouble getting it off. I want to remove it and the handle hub and handle mounting disc. Any help would be appreciated.

I figured it out. I put a vise grip on the handle assembly and twisted it off and the hub came off with it. Now just the mounting disc is left to take off.

Thats the best thing about doing this .... discovery of the solutions to problems.  :3-
Dave

Jerrod This is way off topic but.  Did you know you live with in 10 miles from Roz and Darrell  (CVslots) and Darrell is some what of a expert on old Bally machines.

To me this is a prime example for folks to go in and finish filling out their profile.  Oh I know they won't, some of the questions are just to difficult like sex, age, and location.  Just as a hint if you don't know are can't remember,  all that information is on your drivers license.

I hear yea Buzz... I've also noticed that we have a lot of members who have not made any donations to NLG but sure are here every day asking a whole bunch of question, and receiving a lot of free advice in return.. Please remember that it does cost money to keep NLG up and running, and even a small donation helps. Just think where we would be if NLG didn't exist... Just click on the PayPal Donate box at the bottom of the page...

Thanks, Gary

I talked to them yesterday actually (cv slots) I talked to his wife and she told me it would cost me alot of money to have them work on my machine (which i dont have) a newborn sucks the wallet dry! and he is really busy she said. I think I been on here about a month almost I do appreciate the help and will donate some money when I get it. I have no bank account believe it of not and am waiting for an eBay item to sell. Reminds me of church and the collection plate lol

I'm pretty sure my profile says where I live and age sex etc i know it's on my drivers license also smart ass

Ill make sure to pay before I post anymore

Please don't think I'm picking on you directly, but if you look at the list of people on line here at any one time, a 1/4 to 1/3 have never given a donation and are here daily too.. You can tell by the color of your sign in name. I know that blue means you have not donated, green that you have.. I don't have a clue about the other colors?

Gary

Jerrod  I think you missunderstood what I said. I thank you because your profile is filled out. In no way was my "smart ass" remarks aimed at you. A whole lot of our other members yes,  you NO.

OK let me say something about denotations, I know Joey pretty well and there is NO way that he would expect a denotation from anyone that couldn't afford it. So please do not make a denotation because of what was said by either me or Gary. Nothing said in this thread was aimed at you. You being a new member I don't think a denotation is even expected from you, but we have members that have been on here for years that haven't donated and that was the reason for Gary's comment.

Jerrod  Tell you what, because I opened my big mouth, watch your avatar change from Blue to Green. And please keep posting, that's what this site is all about. Again sorry.

Take a look you are now a Contributing Member

Buzz.. Your one heck of a nice guy  :3-  Your right, I was not targeting Jerrod.. I recently noticed that a few people I've personally helped have never given a donation. I will alway continue helping other with there machine problems when & where I can. I was just venting today...    :37-
Jerrod here's some karma  :259- and Buzz here's some.  :259- for you for what you did for Jerrod.

Gary

I'm going to change my avatar to a real small guy with a BIG foot in his mouth.

Red = NLG Cops  ( Moderators )
Purple= About 15 of us that's been here to long. (Seniors)
Gold=Members that are quite helpfull to other members over the years and new Gold members are selected by older Gold members.  should add to be a Gold your profile MUST be filled out.
Green= Donating members
Blue= enough said

Haha No worries buzz. I appreciate the information. I am so used to being hit up for money I got defensive. I am planning on making a donation though. I don't use any social media sites (Facebook MySpace) because its just not for me. I really like this site though because its aimed at a hobby not just a bunch of people telling you there every move. I like your shirt btw hahaha I actually wrote a paper in school about the same thing. I woke up a little disoriented this morning from medication I hurt my neck last week. Hope we can still be friends lol.
I finished getting all the chrome and rusty metal off this morning. I used a blow dryer to get the metal off the bottom of the feature glass luckily I didn't break it or anything. Now it's naked until I can save some loot to get the chrome done but I'm in no hurry. In the meantime I'm going to clean the cabinet out and study the manual I also still need to fix the coin light and other 6w bulb probs on the 742. I really would like to find the continental manual I've read about called the 1100 manual. Hope everyone is having a nice weekend

Stripped

If your Formica is banged up and you want to make it look as good as all that new chrome, Call Barry Fox.
He has original Formica for refinishing these cabinets. It's pre-cut over sized so you won't have to deal with big sheets.

Mines actually in good shape surprisingly. There's one small chip that I barely notice on the top by the feature unit. The sides look really good. I seen those in his store thanks for the tip though if you come across a continental manual I would be doing flips!

Actually I retract my previous statement that mines ok after inspecting it this piece in the front looks like it is one section therefore could replace it like you said if he sells this part too? Wow thanks man I hadn't noticed that I thought they only sold the sides this.

* this part is pretty banged up and would be great to replace since its right in the front and it has a scab and jagged edges at the top. Thanks for the tip!

Since chrome out here is ridiculously priced. $750 for front door pieces. Wow. I began removing the surface rust and using chrome polish to clean up the parts. It's working good. The reel window looks way better without the rust that builds up in the lines on the bottom. Ill post a pic of it after I polish it

These parts are Cleaning up really nice. Way more affordable also!

.

Before and after

I have used "Soft Scrub" a non abrasive cleanser to clean up the chrome. Works great!

I've heard of that before. This guy today was talking about CLR. I got some even finer steel wool to go over it with again. I want to get a polishing attachment for the drill and give that a try too

The bolts that hold the coin tray on are so rusted most of them broke off in the holes. A machine shop wants. "$100-200" to remove them. I found a coin tray on eBay for $3.99+$11.99 shipping that looks pretty good for being the only one on there

To re-drill 5-6 holes and re-thread them??  That is highway robbery.

I know what a rip! Mine is so rusted and I blasted it so a$15 one sounds good

I noticed your photo of the dismantled and now empty slot machine case. I hope you remember how to put it all back together again.

Haha me too! I took alot of pictures when I took it apart and put all the parts and bolts in plastic ziplock pouches. I have a manual with diagrams of the door assembly and the other parts. I want to replace all of the screws to the front door they are mostly all in really bad shape. I'm sure it is going to take some time putting it back together.

4-Ott steel wool is YOUR FRIEND....just do NOT use it on the gold part....

Crap that stuff between the lines is supposed to be gold? I thought it was rust and was taking it off

There was a thread here within the past year about repairing the gold paint..

Gary

Thanks I found it right after cvs said something. Looks like another job to do. I just got a really nice fine tip brush I haven't used yet.

I decided to start putting it back together this weekend. I cleaned the metal up as best I could and changed all the bulbs out. I still need to re wire the belly glass light unit and paint the bottom edge you can see because it was so eaten up I had to put a thin layer of bondo on it and am going to paint it since i haven't found a replacement. I'm also waiting on my coin tray.

.

Sometimes all we got is Bondo ... and later on down the road, we find the part we need. Dont hunt it down ... it will find you when the time is right. Hunting it down can rent too much space in your head.  :279-
Dave

Wow your the second person I've EVER heard say that! My mother (bless her heart) would say not to let someone rent space in your head. I understand what that means completely I've tried telling my wife that when something is bothering her. Wise words. I have alot of other things to work on this in the meantime till the parts I want come along. I need to fix the reels and figure out why some sumbols are not stopping on the pay line. Get the step up unit to work and the payouts to work. I'm glad I got a lot of experience taking this apart and putting it back together. Hope your weekend is good Dave I'm waiting for breaking bad to start today!

OK my friend ... keep in touch.
Dave

I found a posting about the reels it said that the biggest cut on the discs should be in the wiper arm for the biggest payout. On my machine it is the triple bar. I adjusted mine this way however one of my reels doesn't line up on any combination it is slightly off. Should I remove the reel strip on that reel to fix the problem?   

There is a spring load link with a roller on the end. That what goes into the reels disk. Check those for wear, the mounting bolts wear. It is possible your strips have moved they are just crimped in place.

Gary

Thanks ill check those out next I'm done for the weekend. Ill need to figure out how to move the reel strips I'm thinking maybe use a tiny flat head to un crimp them?

Be careful with the flathead on the reel strips.  The strips are thin and fragile.   If they HAVE moved then they WILL move by grabbing the strip with both hands and slowly working them around the reel in the desired direction.

Make sure that this is your problem before moving the reel strips.  You could be making more trouble for yourself.

Ra

Thanks for the input! I was very careful. I said I was done for the weekend but I can't stay away lol. I adjusted the strips and now they're lined up! I used my small pocket screwdriver my dad got a bunch made for his sandblasting business. I re crimped them with the instructions from another post old Reno I believe said to use pliers and screwdriver. Amachanic you were right about those nuts being loose 3 of 4 were loose enough to remove by finger. I tightened them up. I need to clean these reel strips there a bit dingy. The reel Tins have a bunch of black powder on them also.

Naturally after fixing that the handle is locking down when I pull it. I moved the half gear to the position shown in the book and that's when it stopped working. I tried putting it back to where it was and its still locking down. Ill get back to it another day. Probably tomorrow

I need to get a new bolt and have the handle assembly re threaded because it is stripped out and has a little bit of play in it.

I take it that when you took that picture you had positioned the reels all with the same depth cut lined up?
With those tin reel sometimes the strips would move and usually down. They were positioned correctly and the tin edge was crimped with a dimple that locked in the position. Over time some times that would move due to the inertia with the sudden stop.

You can readjust them if they are loose and you can spin them on the drum. I put the reel bundle back into the machine and realign them so they look even with the payline on the glass with the door closed. The using a spring loaded center punch, I close the original  dimple again. Some of them had like three crimp dimples on each side. Since the reel is just tin, back up the edge with your hand holding just the thin edge of the reel when you use the center punch.

Is this the stuff you need?
The plate is NOS and still has the blue plastic protective cover.

It looks like the handle. What are the measurements of the plate in plastic I know the one for the continental is wider than other 3 reel machines. I can't quite make out what that tan part is

My parts measure about 18" wide. Is that tan piece the belly glass unit? There are brand new chrome panels like the one you have on eBay from foxslots but they're 20" the 742a is about 16" wide. I'm guessing  this machines width is the same as other 4 reels? could you please measure yours if you are trying to sell them. I would really like to get the parts. I sprayed the pieces with chrome krylon paint and think its funky but will do for now but not the way i want to keep it. Im going to get a new bolt for my handle and see if it tightens up. Thanks for your help!

Crap I just noticed this a minute ago.

These old machines are always throwing you curve balls.. At least that a common part. I'm sure I have it. Hard to tell on my phone but is it the gear with the stud bearing?

Gary

Yes it sure does throw curve balls. I also noticed the spring was put back in wrong when I took it apart before by looking at my working machine. This is the one with the broken teeth I left manual outside but I think we're talking about the same one.

I got the belly unit put back together last night. I has to remove all the wires and ballasts to get the unit sandblasted and painted. Lights fired right up for the first time.

.

Chrome edge was rusty and had pin holes in it before.

Looking good .... you were looking for some parts. I think I have found someone who might have the door parts and others you were looking for. Let me know.... if so you can call me.
Dave

Thanks. Ill give you a call soon and see about those parts.

Does anyone know what stores sale point bending tools and burnishing tools? Thanks.

I need to get some longer screws for the coin tray to go on. I went to a place this morning, pacific bolt. I got 50 small screws that go on the door and star washers and 2 long bolts that go to the handle assembly for $5. My handle is on good now the old bolt was stripped bad. 

I also figured out that this light shield for the coin accepted lights doesn't fit this machine. It hits the reels. Thats why they werent spinning. Makes sense because I had to pry a piece of tap welded metal off of it.

I just finished putting the coin tray on and right side of the door. I noticed now that the lights work that the TILT is lit. Inam hoping I can figure out what is making it come on and possibly the machine may work. Im going to Attempt to re paint the gold soon. 

The restore is progressing very nicely.  Usually the Tilt has a push button inside the cabinet on the right side somewhere to clear it.

That has been my experience

Ra

Thank you. I originally wanted to get chrome redone but after seeing the cost. This turned out good for me. I am going to paint the gold on the front really soon. I have a push button in the top right corner and I've hit the reset in the bottom left and the tilt hasn't gone off. I'm going to keep at it. In the meantime I will do more cosmetic work and cleaning.

You may find a tilt switch or two, (slam switch), possibly in the top unit back case area?
It is a long switch, with a noticeable weight on it.  You can put a piece of tape in between the switches to eliminate that circuit.  Or adjust it properly.  these were used on pinballs at one time to keep folks from banging on the machine.

Thank you! I found the tilt and put a piece of tape like you said but unfortunately it still says tilt :/(.  Maybe I did something wrong or there's another issue. It has to be connected to the feature unit because when the feature unit is not plugged in it doesn't say tilt.

Maybe the contacts have to stay connected? I put the tape in between the contacs to keep them seperated. I will try taping them together also in a little bit.

More Likely there is a relay that's stuck closed.. Once the slam or tilt switch closes I would beleave it trips another coil closing a set of contacts. That lights your tilt bulb until the next coins played.. Look at your feature board and see if any of those relays are marked tilt. At least that's what I would be looking for.

Gary

Ok thanks. I keep playing with it nothing has worked yet. I'm going to clean all the contacts on the feature board soon as my burnishing tool gets here. Maybe one of the plastic wheels isn't set correctly. When I put a coin in it isn't engaging the handle which is probably because its on tilt.

Yes perhaps they should be together. Sorry my error...   Cannot tell from photo.
Should have tilt reset button on upper right side of case when door is open just above handle box a silver push button?

I tried putting them together also. Maybe because there is only a few coins in there also. When I get home later ill try putting more coins in and taping them together and pushing the reset. Hopefully it will do the trick. Thanks for the help!

You should be able to figure out its normal state.  When you bang the machine, the weight moves, and causes a tilt by either making or breaking a circuit. 
If the hopper runs out of coins, it should just time out the machine and black it out, so I doubt that is your tilt problem.  But I could be wrong.

Crap. Ill keep messing with it it may take a while but eventually hopefully something will give. I tried both ways (connection taped together and apart) one of the plastic wheels, the one next to the line of coils, does not move when using the machine. I'm not sure which one it is because the sticker is missing ill refer to the manual and figure out which one it is and try to determine what the proper start position is. Something is probably out of adjustment.

Did you hit a jackpot or a payout and not have enough coins in the machine? What OldReno is saying is that the safety time may need the be reset.. It's behind the hopper and most machines have a flat bar lever running under the hopper you push to reset it without removing the hopper. Your machine will time out if they run out of coins. Check that and let us know.
Gary

I've never hit a jackpot or any payout. I tried pushing the reset your talking about a few times already also the silver button on the right. When the feature unit is unplugged the tilt doesn't light up so I'm guessing it has to be something with the feature unit. I'm hoping once this goes away the machine will work. It has come a long way already from when I got it. I'm going to do the gold paint on both my machines soon while still continuing to try and fix this tilt problem.

The safety time is right behind the hopper. It has a red light that lights up when the timer has timed out.

Gary

Yes I know which one your talking about mine has the bar on it so you don't have to reach all the way back. I've pushed it a few times although the light has never came on.

Mr. Reno, it seems to make more sense the way you first explained putting tape between the contacts but both ways haven't done the trick so I'm going to leave the tilt with tape separating the contacts as you said. Unless you believe they're the other way. I have no experience but I was playing with the switches alot now and can't wait for my burnishing tool and contact adjuster hopefully soon. Thanks for all the help you guys. Amy input is greatly appreciated.

I noticed the odds motor unit arcs when it's going is this common?

This unit is not labeled. But I'm not sure if this is the proper adjustment for it either I am going to try the manual to see if there's anything.

After doing some more dicking around(hello Reno) I discovered I am missing something. Parts #23&24

I

I figured this out by inspecting the coin mechanism on both machines. It really helps having a working machine next to this one.

I meant parts 24&25

I found the lockout armature assembly on eBay from foxsslots. That's wonderful. Could this missing apart be affecting the tilt issue and the step up unit not working? I hope it solves these problems. I found another thread where they were missing there's also but only function that was mentioned was rejecting wrong coins.

Those part are for rejecting coins. They won't help with your other issues.. What happens is that with your 742 after you insert the single coin, since that one only uses one at a time, that then will reject any other coins back to the outside coin tray. They keep you from playing extra coins that your not getting credit for. In the Continental it would do the same after the 6th was inserted. You find these missing alot because they tend to make a loud buzzying sound. Hope that helps..

Gary

That's unfortunate I was hoping this would solve my tilt issue. It's not letting me off easy. Thanks for the explanation Gary.

Could not upload my last post, will try it again.
Look in the top unit for a tilt relay.  The tilt switch (slam) should turn it off, and pushing the silver reset button by the handle should turn it back on.  As best I recall....  
You should find a wire in the switches on the relay there that is the same color as the wire to your Tilt Light....

I will look in the manual to see what tilt relay looks like. There's the unit with the weight on it which I blocked the contacts with tape. I haven't been able to find a manual for the feature unit for this 847 machine. Mine has the other models feature units showing every part. I have been examining the feature unit looking for anything that says tilt but no luck. Some of the labels are missing on a few parts. If I had the continental manual things would be a lot easier. I will look for the wires that are the same color as the tilt light thanks for the good tips!

Your slam switch (tilt weight) should go to the relay in question.  Follow the wire color from the weight and see where it goes.  It should go to a relay in the top unit, and that should be your tilt relay.  Looks like a normal relay, a coil, and armature, and a few switches on it.
You should be able to push down the armature of the relay and see that the tilt light goes out when you push it.
BTW, I don't know that there is a continental manual.  I don't think I've ever seen one.  Let me know if you find one.

Actually it's the 500 supplemental manual below. This is a list I found of all the manuals.


Bally Slotmachine Service Instructions and Parts Catalogs

-An Introduction To BALLY Slot Machines 1979

-Field Service : BALLY Electro Mechanical Slot Machine Preventive Maintenance Guide , Bally Slots Giving you a handle on profits ( edited by Wilms Distributing )

-Manual # 200 : Gold Award Series , Model 759B , 759C , 759E , 759F , 759G , 759H , 759K ,776 , Jolly Joker , Model 773 , Super Jolly Taverner , Models 780 , 780A , Penny Belle , Model 782 , Penny Star , Model 801 , Sir Prize , Models 783 , 783A

-Manual # 300 : 3 Reel Upright Slot Machines

-Manual # 400 : Basic Standard , Model 742A , Money Honey , Model 742A-1G , Quick Draw, Model 802 , Reel Deal , Model 816 , Double Up , Model 808B , 5 Coin Multiple , Model 809B , 3 Line Pay , Model 831F

-Manual # 400 Supplement : 5 Line Pay , Model 873 , Motorized Automatic , Model 794 , Side by Side , Model 791 , Progressive Jackpot , Model 785 , Electric Door Lock , Kit K318

-Manual # 500 Supplement : Bonus Continental , Model 847-2 Slot Machine

-Manual # 600 : Windsor Castle , Model 837 , Las Vegas , Model 842 , Golden Crown , Model 843/A , Lucky Draw , Model 844 , Reel Deal , Model 845 , Treasure Chest , Model 851/A , Duck Shoot Swedish Models , Model 859/A

-Manual # 700 : Lucky Joker , Model 784 , Magic Star , Model 784-1 , Lucky Joker ( Modified ), Model 784-2

-Manual # 1100 : Arrow Line , Model 883 , Arrow Line , Model 883-1 , 3 Line Progressive , Model 889 , Super Continental , Model 889 , Super Continental , Model 889-1 , Super Continental , Model 889-2 , Super Continental , Model 889-3 , Super Continental , Model 889-4 , Super Line , Model 892 , Super Line , Model 892-1 , Super Line , Model 892-2SD , Bonus Line , Model 902 , Bonus Line-Lightning , Model 902-1 , Bonus Line , Model 902-2

-Manual # 1100 Supplement : Lucky Bars Continental , Model 910 Series Slotmachine

-Manual # 1900 Swedish Slotmachines : Poker , Model 856 , 5 Coin Multiple , Model 861 , The Kronor , Model 878 , 5 Line Pay , Model 888 , Mustang , Model 918 , Circus , Model 928

-Manual # 2200 Danish Slotmachines : Standard Series , Model 742 , Quick Draw , Model 802 , Big Apple , Model 804 , Reel Deal , Model 816 , Fire Dance , Model 869 , Mustang , Model 903 , Circus , Model 931 , Rhino , Model 946

-Manual # 2300 Australian Slotmachines ( Complementary Copy ) : ALL AUSTRALIAN MODELS

-Manual # 2400 : ALL STANDARD 3 REEL MODELS

-Manual # 2600 : Covering ALL 3 , 4 & 5 reel Slotmachine Models , Standard & Console

-Manual # 2601 Supplement : Hopper AS 3105

-Manual # 2800 : Big Barrel 3 reel console Slotmachine , Service & Operating instructions

-Manual # 4900 Danish : Las Vegas , Game 1039-2

-Manual # 5000 : DOLLAR Slotmachines , covering High Capacity Dollar Lowboy , 3 Reel Intermediate & 3 Wide Reel Games

-Manual # 7000 : Electronic Slotmachines Parts Catalog , Models E-1208 , E-1209 , E1212 , E1213

-SERIES E

-Manual # 7010 : Parts Catalog , Models E-1088 & E-1090

-Manual # 7010 : Parts Catalog , Models E-1214 & E-1216

-Manual # 7050 : Parts Catalog , Models E-1202 & E-1203

-Manual # 7060 : Parts Catalog , Models E-1234 & E-1235 & E-1236

-Manual # 7070 : Parts Catalog , Australian Models

-Manual # 7125 : Basic Service , Adjustment and Lubrication Procedures MILITARY MODELS

-Manual # 7150 : Basic Service , Adjustment and Lubrication Procedures

-Manual # 7150 issue 2 : Basic Service , Adjustment and Lubrication Procedures

-Manual # 7200 : 2000 Series , Wide Cabinet Models with High Volume Hopper Unit

-Manual # 7210 : 2000 Series , Low Boy , Regular & ext. Bottom , Intermediate Cabinet Models with Low or intermediate Volume Hopper Unit

-Manual # 7220 : 2000 Series , Narrow Cabinet Models with Regular Volume Hopper Unit

-Manual FO-650 Revised issue 3 : Operator instructions Manual

-Manual FO-650-1 issue 2 : Series E , MPU Boars Test Station Operator Guide and Test Procedures ( AS-2978-3 MPU Board Assembly )

-Manual FO-650-2 issue 2 : Series E , Peripheral Test Station Operator Guide and Test Procedures

-Manual FO-650-3 : Series E , MPU Boars Test Station Operator Guide and Test Procedures ( AS-2978-5 & 6 MPU Board Assembly )

-Manual FO-650-5 issue 2 : P.C. Board Schematics

-Manual FO-650-6 : Operator instructions Manual , Describes Models using USP ver. 5.6 Part N° ‘s E-755-8(M1) , E-755-9(M2) , E-755-10(M3)

-Manual FO-650-7 : Operator instructions Manual for Models using USP ver. 5.61 Part N° ‘s E-755-12(M1) , E-755-13(M2) , E-755-14(M3)

-Manual FO-650-8 : Operator instructions Manual for Models using USP ver. 5.63 Part N° ‘s E-755-21(M1) , E-755-22(M2) , E-755-23(M3)

-Manual FO-650-9 : Printed Circuit Board Schematics , Model E-1275

-Manual FO-650-10 : Series E , Peripheral Test Station Operator Guide and Test Procedures

-Manual FO-650-12 : Operator instructions Manual for Models using MPU Board AS-2978-3 USP Ver. 5.64 ( No SDS ) Part N° ‘s E-755-43(M1) , E-755- 44(M2) , E-755-45(M3) MPU Board AS-2978-5,6 or 7 USP Ver. 5.65 ( No SDS ) Part N° ‘s E-755-46(M1) , E-755- 47(M2) , E-755-48(M3) USP Ver. 5.64-1 ( With SDS ) Part N° ‘s E-755-40(M1) , E-755-41(M2) , E-755-42(M3) USP Ver. 5.65-1 ( With SDS ) Part N° ‘s E-755-49(M1) , E-755-50(M2) , E-755-51(M3)

-Manual FO-650-13 : Printed Circuit Board Schematics/Parts List for all Electronic Slot Machines

-Manual FO-650-14 : Slot Machine Schematics Manual

-Manual FO-650-16 : Link Progressive System Operators Manual

-Manual FO-650-17 : Link Progressive System Maintenance Manual

-Manual FO-650-18 : Printed Circuit Board Schematics/Parts List for Link Progressive System

-Manual FO-650-22 ( Xerox Copy ): Slot Simulator Operating and Test/Troubleshooting Guide , IN COMPLIANCE with U.S. AIR FORCE SPECIFICATIONS Models E-1327 , E-1328 and E-1331

SERIES V

-Manual FO-850-2 : Models V-1088 and V-1090 Parts Catalog

-Manual FO-850-3 : Models V-1297 Operator Instructions Manual

-Manual FO-850-4 : Model V-1297 Parts Catalog

-Manual FO-850-8 : Models V-1265-2 and V-1291 Parts Catalog

-Manual FO-850-10 : Models V-1336 and V-1337 Parts Catalog

-Manual FO-850-10 : Models V-1336 and V-1337 Parts Catalog

-Manual FO-850-13 : 2000 Series , Operator Instructions Manual

This person says the 1100 manual has continental in it:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Collectibles-General-Antiques-682/2011/7/bally-continental-slot-tilt.htm (http://en.allexperts.com/q/Collectibles-General-Antiques-682/2011/7/bally-continental-slot-tilt.htm)


On the Continental machine: That bar below the hopper pushes on a reset button for a hopper time out. This will happen if your hopper runs out of coins, after a bit with no coins exiting the hopper the timer will kick out to protect the hopper motor, if this happens all the machines lights will go out, the machine will be out like the power if off, the only light which will be on is a little red light next to that reset button, when you push the bar which resets the button all the power will come back on. This is a complicated machine, a great machine, and a lot of fun to play! There are several different models of Continentals. You should really have a couple of manuals for this machine which will also help to sell it if that times comes. One of the Bally manuals, just has to do with all Bally Continentals Electro/Mechanical models, it's Bally Manual number 1100 and the other manual you should have with this is Ballys Manual number 2400 which is very good, and easy to understand all about Ballys Electro/Mechanical slot machines and there components. With these two manuals you should be able to fix about anything that goes wrong with your Continental in the future, and you can get these two manuals at:

Well thanks, I had no idea there were that many manuals out there.
Working on the floor you generally don't have time to pull out a manual.
Will save your links.

Yes, I am very familiar with the safety timer motor and the delay relay circuitry involved.
I would guess that your Continental does not have the delay relay, since, unlike the multiplier (X-unit) machines, it resets the payboard after each coin in's worth of pay, instead of doing a X2, X3, X4 or X5 trip.
That is what your odds follower unit in the top unit is for I believe.
In an oranges pay, the hopper steps 10, the odds follower resets the hopper board, the hopper pays 10 coins again, the follower resets it again, it pays 10 again, and on and on.
In the X board type machines, the hopper does not reset.  The X board games require a much more precise safety timer motor circuit, and if the safety timer is not reset after every 5 steps of the hopper, the machine will time out.
Anyway, thanks for the links, but you didn't paste where the two manuals can be found at:

I am still trying to find this manual.

 I followed the red wire it is  red with green spots. It leads to the anti cheat and jackpot lock up coils. My anti cheat coil is destroyed looking. It got burnt up. The plastic is broken on one end and it crumbled on the other end (see pics) Hopefully this is the root of all evils!

Burnt up and broken anti cheat coil

.

Barry at foxslots said I need to wedge these contacts closed and it should be fine. I'm not sure about the 3 wires that attach to the coil if they don't need to be attached anywhere.

If Barry said that then that's gospel as Barry is the Bally king.
I would just tape the wires up so they don't short out.
Leave the two wires that are connected together and tape them up.
The single wire tape it up alone.

I can believe that. The three wires are all different colors. I should just tape the ends off on each? Thanks for jumping in here nice to meet you.  I removed the burnt up coil and kept the hardware and tossed it.

All you need to do is remove the broken coil and
leave the wires attached to the post they are connected to.
The orange wire feeds the other coils.

Ok sweet i think I got you Thanks a bunch. I have already removed the broken piece of the coil the wires attach to. I will solder them back or tape them off if that works and reconnect the orange wire to the cable like wire that runs to the strip of coils with a cap connector. Than will find something to wedge the coil in the down position. I hope this does something! Ill post a pic when I'm done. Thanks.

I just need to wedge it closed now

It just popped into my head to use a zip tie to hold it down.

It worked folks! Tilt light is now off! Next step is to figure out why the handle assembly isn't engaging when coin is inserted. It had worked before. Here we go again. I am happy this worked though thanks again for the help guys

I forgot to upload pic as if I haven't put enough ;/)

After doing more Dicking off and examining the switches I made an adjustment on the left side of the reel mech and after manually engaging the handle assembly the coin hopper started doing a payout on a winning combo. The quarters were getting jammed in the hopper though where they exit. Needless to say that will need fixing. When I first got the machine the hopper would not move at all because a coin was stuck. So at this point my only functional problems that I am aware of are:

1) handle assembly is not unlocking when coin is inserted
2) this goes with one kinda but machine is not reading additional coins (stepping up odds)
3) coin mechanism needs to be adjusted so quarters do not jam.

I'm really satisfied with the progress other than the rotted parts I had to paint I want to find replacements (ill be calling you soon Fatman). I'm glad I have something to work on and enjoy. I hope someone else gets use from all these problems I have had.

Scratch #3 off the list. I fixes the coin hopper problem.

Machine gives correct payouts now. So all I need to do is get the inserted coins to register.

 :3-
Progress my friend ... progress.
I talked to my friend here in Philly that has the parts you might need. He is willing to have me give you his # and has also been following your adventure. I am heading to Atlanta for 2 weeks but you can call anytime.
Dave

I just got done doing some more playing with this machine. I am still having a problem getting the latch arm assembly to Engadge when I insert a coin. However, when I manually Engadge the latch arm the step up unit seems to work as I insert additional coins the odds are changing. Now all I need to do is get it to Engadge when I put a coin in.

I figured out that if I take my tiny screw driver and manually move the odds coil in the same motion as if you were to push on the coil armature, it will activate the handle release coil. I tried adjusting the switches on the odds coil and still it will only unlock when I use the fancy screwdriver method. When the odds coil is pushed from the coil armature it does not activate the handle release coil. My coin guide was a little bent and was sometimes causing coins to get stuck which I thought may have been affecting the function of the coin switch so I bent it and they make it through ok but still is not activating the handle release coil. My manual says the coin relay and switch unit on the side of the reel mechanism is part of the handle release coil. Ill keep at it.

Check the coil for to be the right one and if it is weak.

Are you saying to check if its the correct coil for the odds? When the coin switch is tripped the odds reset coil is tripped but not the odds coil

What I'm saying if the coil will pull if you
help it then it may not be the right coil in
that position or it may be too weak to pull
down the switch.

so what pulls that coil in ? and is it possible to trace that yellow/red wire to see where its coming from

I'm not sure. When I put the coin in the odds reset clicks. The odds coil is not activating.

It looks like the right coil, and it looks just fine.
You will not get any odds step up until the handle is released and the handle switches change state.
The only thing you will get is your odds reset.

The handle must drop in order to get odds step up.

Manually release the handle coil latch, and you should see the odds step up when you next hit the coin in switch.
The handle is normally released when the coin relay trips (left side of reels, the trip relay), and you can tell it tripped by the coin accepted light being on.  If you have that, but still not handle release, check your dashpot switch at the end of the pump arm, and you can pull on the pump arm itself to sometimes close that switch.
If your half gears are incorrect, you will not have your dashpot switches close.
NOTE- you can tape or bend the dashpot switches together to keep them closed with no ill effect to the machine if you wish....

Check to see it the numbers on the coil are right for that coil. It might be a coil with too much resistance so it doesn't pull in with the strength it might need to activate the switches. Otherwise, take it out of circuit and with a OHM meter read it and compare it with the correct ohms for the proper coil. I think you might need to see it it energizes at all. If you see it pull down then check for the connection on the switch blades themselves with a continuity meter and operate the coil mech by hand. You might need to only clean the contacts and adjust  them closer. You might need to check your coin micro switch, to make sure it makes and breaks as it should. I had on that would somehow arc inside and get stuck inside so it would not activate again until I struck it with the back end of a screwdriver to knock it loose inside.
 :103-
Dave

Check OldRenos suggestions first. He knows so much more about this than I do.

Thanks guys. I'm just now getting back to the machine for a little work. Had a long day thank god it's the weekend. I forgot my manual at the shop so I'm going to do my best without it. I'm about to play with it and see if I can figure anything out. Hope you guys are having a Good Friday.

I noticed last light that when I manually Engadge the handle lockout and hit the coin switch the step up was working. Right now when I hit the coin switch manually the odds reset coil is activating. No coin lights so I will check the switches

Here are pics of the reel mech

Forgot my manual but I think my dash pot switch has already been disabled. If its above the piston white cylinder. There's no wires to it and broken blades.

Well fellas While I was  examining  the coin relay and switch on the left side of the reel mechanism one of the wires to the switches fell off really easily. I soldered it back and put it back in the cabinet and guess what? I drop a coin in, handle unlocks and if I add additional coins the odds step up! I'm very very very happy about this. The only problem is the insert coin light isn't coming on which I haven't been able to check the bulb (I just replaced it) because my wife called me inside but yeah a minute problem. Coin accepted lights up when I put the coins in and winner paid. I'm about to take the wife to my casino.

THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS FOR YOUR HELP AND GUIDANCE I TRULY APPRECIATE IT.

I'm not getting the payouts I should be getting for additional coins. Only payouts for single coin. Also one reels is a bit wobbly. Now that machine is mostly working I can figure the little problems out. Still very happy about it

It is possible to have a good bulb and bad socket. Check it with a meter to see.
Glad to see that your in the home stretch.
Dave
 :88-

Makes sense, I had a coin tray bulb that was really dim but after fiddling with it it works properly

Does anybody know the most common areas to check when your machine is only paying out for 1st coin amounts even though you are playing 2+ coins? I tried cleaning some of the contacts on the coin hopper and blowing it off with air because it was a little dusty.

Sounds like your stepper unit needs a little tune up, but I'd wait for someone like Old Reno or amachanic to chime in before I did any major damage to it!

Haha! Thanks for chiming In anyhow. I get the right lights to light up with each coin. I just adjusted it to where it will start at 1st coin odds at a new play before it would start at 2nd coin than 1st coin and so on. I adjusted the spring on the plastic wheel. It shows the correct amount of coins inserted on the feature unit but pays out for only one coin being played.

I'm pretty sure it was you that warned me not to file on my reel mechanism. I'm glad you did I could have really messed things up!

Yes, that was me...too much cleaning (and adjusting) is not a good thing!

I just put on a different side door piece that isn't damaged around the lock! I also put in a half gear that doesn't have broken teeth. And I replaced one of my reel tins and the bearing unit. Mine was in really bad shape.

Updated pic. I put another coat of gold paint on the front. I replaced the half gear that had broken teeth and also the reel glass again. (Be careful not to over tighten when you put new reel glass on) I also picked this stand up last weekend for $2! I still need another extruding trim. And also to get the right payouts.

Good job ... did you get the door parts from Gordy? I saw him just a few days ago.
I recently found this 5 reel Medalist ... didnt have to do much of anything to it.
Dave

If you don't mind me asking, what did the Medalist set yea back? I've been watching around here but nothing much but some Bally E-Series.

Gary

Yes sir I did get the parts from Gordy. I got the door side piece with the lock hole. A half gear and a reel Tin with the bearing. It solved my wobbley reel problem and handle pull issue I was having.

Sweet looking machine you picked up! I would mind adding a 5 reel machine to my collection.

I meant to say I WOULDN'T mind adding a 5 reel machine. I've never seen a 5 reel em machine in person yet. 

Well.... you might not want to know.... but less than 4
 :3- :244- :3- :244- :3- :136-

I can't figure on how to start a new post for the life of me. But I am trying to search for a way to make the reels spin for a longer time. They stop very fast after the lever is pulled. I'm thinking some type of adjustment to the clock? If anyone knows how this can be done thanks in advance.

I have seen a very small spring mounted so it just barely touches the fan blade and it hitting the blades lightly, slows it down.
@ OldReno .... have you heard of this before?

Dave

to start a new thread, just click on the board name, in this case,  "Bally Electromechanical", its located in the upper left corner of this thread, or in the Forum Index...over to the right there will be a button that says "New Topic"...click it... :89-

Thanks CVs, slowing down the fan blade on the clock makes sense in my head I just need a visual on how that spring set up goes.

I do recall at one time a retrofit that was a spring that would stop the fan blades after the last reel indexed.  This was to keep cheaters from keeping the fan spinning and supposedly allowing them to manipulate the reels.  I tried but could never manipulate the reels.  Never had anyone explain that to me.
One way to slow the clock is to bend slightly the ends of the fan blades to make a scoop.  Another way is to put weights on the end of the fan blades.  You might also consider putting an extension on the large spring to lengthen it and thus cut down on it's tension.

Sweet that's a lot of info thank you. Are you talking about the large spring just above the clock?
Can you tell me what the karma Storm means?

The Karma Storm is just a way that we can show other members thanks for helping me out. Then you would leave that person a positive karma.

Gary

I thought it meant something like that. Thanks for letting me know I just made it rain karma haha

Here is a picture of my Bally 785-AA clock side of the reel mech. It shows the clock I had mentioned. It touches the fan only enough to slow the spin just a little.
The plate that is added on the clock might be for something else as well but I dont know. It is slotted for adjustment forward and back.
Dave

That's a cool custom job there or did it come like that? Is there any noise from the fan hitting that pin?

Interesting.  Haven't seen anything like that before.
Is it noisy?

Not really ... I will try to make a video and post it on YouTube with a link if you want to see it in action .... but not that much to see. We can figure out what it looks like.
Dave