New Life Games Tech Forums

Hello to all. 

I have three questions to ask about testing WMS OLED Button panels:

1.  Besides a multimeter and a power supply, what else is needed to troubleshoot/test it on a workbench?
 
2.  Are there different model panels and configurations?

3.  Did I miss anything?  (I don't know how to use the smiley guys.)

Any assistance on getting started would be greatly appreciated.

Eppear

I always found the quickest way to test it was to pop it into a machine.
Some of the techs I work with will connect it to a laptop and use the software to test it out, but I'm not very familiar with that process since it's the other shift that primarily works on them (at least until I decide to get on it and learn it on my own).

There are a couple of different panels we have here, and a couple of different software versions that can go into them, depending on the version the machine/game will be compatible with (we have changed all of ours over, so we no longer have to mess with multiple versions). When we did have two different versions, we had to upload to the buttons, and to the panel. Both had to match, and match the machine/game or it wouldn't work.

I'm not sure if any of that helps, or if you already knew that.

-Styx

You say you need to trouble shoot the panel. May I ask what it is doing? Did it take a drink? When the game is powered on does it cycle through the yellow on the screens?

To Styx and Tech 73,

Thank you both for the lightning replies.

I had heard that there was more than one version of the panel, but I was hoping that there might be some generic test that could be applied to troubleshoot them.  These panels came from another location, and I don't know the model or game themes they were removed from.

As for the panels themselves, I don't know about any liquid testing by customers (the panels appear clean and weren't sticky). 

I have connected two of the five defective panels we have to a 12 volt supply and got some LEDs to light up around the button screen and some of the button screens have a raster type of display or distorted display.  But, beyond that nothing else. 

We don't have an immediate need these panels now, and I do have a supply of panel switches, so maybe I could shotgun it?

Final questions, Is there a part number on the PCBs that I can use to distinguish one model panel from another?  Also, can I assume that the basic difference between the panels are in the embedded software they contain?

Again, thanks to both of you for the rapid assistance.  This was my first problem inquiry.  All the best.   Eppear

The software is easily changed on the panels with a laptop, so that will only make a difference when it comes to getting it up on a machine. It also only matters if you have two different versions. If you are only using one version, then they should all be the same and it won't matter. Do you have the software on a laptop?

The main difference in the older panels, is the board color is either blue or green. I don't know if there is any other difference in the older panels, they could be exactly the same. Our button boards, and all other pieces have been interchangeable with them as far as I've seen, but I could be wrong if it's different with schematics or something along those lines.

The newer panels are very noticeably different, and have a lot of rubber padding/ protection. There is rubber all over it to protect the buttons, and they have different parts to them. I imagine you have the older style?

Visual troubleshooting for the button panels:

Check the functionality of each button, Are they each springing back up in all four corners when pressed?

- Button caps will have the corners break, frames will have the little tabs that hold the lenses in place get bent or broken, the H shaped plungers have the tabs that hold them in place break off, and their long thin corner tabs bend or break ALL THE TIME (number one replacement on the floor here), button boards may not be fully seated, and the boards lose their optics quite often too. For the optics, at each side of the button board, there is a space where the H shaped plunger blocks the led/sensor. Often one of those breaks off, making the button light up and communicate fine, but not register anything when pressed. (Does anyone here have a part number on these optics?? I have a few boards needing them).

That is about all I can offer for a starting point. Beyond that, I would put it in a machine, or hook it up to the laptop diagnostic (which I don't know how to do, but could and will learn at some point).

I've had these go out on me with no real visual problem. I know like Styx said you have to have the same software on the buttons and panel. I'm not sure if I remember this right but one's a 2.75 and one's a 3.00....someone correct me if I'm wrong please. You can flash the panel from a 2.75 to a 3.00 but not the other way.

The place where I work no one does PM's so the machines are filthy and the panel will just stop working. I take the panel apart, the buttons off and wash the board staying away from the USB port area. I have a pretty good success rate doing this. I do find one button that is bad every now and then though and just swap out the button. I've even taken the screen off a old lower version button and put it on a good button.