New Life Games Tech Forums

 :61-Need a harness made for a 1992 Double Pay  IGT S Slot  from the door(12pin molex) to the coin mech(3pin) /door optics(2pin)/ cc optics (5pin)/ gate solenoid (6pin) /and another 2pin that plugs into a board under the solenoid at the rear of coin mech.    The pic I have uploaded is missing the 3pin molex plug that will go to the coin mech.... If u can make one let me no.. Or where I can get one. Thanks  :31-

Can you post another pic or two...no offense, but without the hands? We need to see the harness itself.   :89-

Yea sure thing thanks for reply

Let me no If u need more pics thanks

We have them. PM me your address...

Sent thanks again.. can u post anpic of ur harness plz

Sounds like you found some ryan! Great! :88-
Kudo's to Central Valley!!  :244-

I will pull one today and post a pic for you.

Thanks again  :131- cant wait  :211-  :96-

In a pinch , on the S+, there is a way to use a 3-pin harness to fit a CC 16D coin  comparator.
The 16 D CC uses a rectangular 6-pin Molex connector but only utilizes 5 pin locations.
These particular S+ harnesses use a short red wire loop between pins #1 & #3.
They are normally colored from top to bottom as 1 thru 6.
#1=red to #3 Loop
#2=purple
#3=red from #1 Loop
#4=yellow
#5=black (ground wire)

The older "S" uses a 3-pin harness for the CC.
#1 is on the top pin location.

The wire colors are:
#1=Yellow
#2=purple
#3=black (ground)

Yes...you can stick the 3-pin harness into the CC 16D S+ coin comparator as long as the black wire is in the bottom pin location of the 5-pin CC!!

However, this is the first time I ever heard of someone wanting to use an S+ harness on a straight "s" IGT model machine!

In order to change your regular 5-pin harness to a three pin harnes, all you gotta do is move the purple wire and cut part of Molex body shorter.
This is where you MAY  be able to help yourself.

If you look closely, the purple wire is located between the red Loop.
With a sharp pin, push the silver tab down under the plastic and push the pin and tab together under the plastic into the housing while slightly pulling on the purple wire with your other hand.
The wire should come out of the Molex housing fully intact and all you need to do is stick the pin inside and push up on the tab so it will lock in when you re-insert this purple wired pin back into pin location #5 ( between the black and yellow wires.)
Take a nice sharp pliers and cut the Molex housing off at some point below the yellow wire
so the modified Molex housing fits into your CC!

This harness mod is for you using a 5-pin S+ CC harness into a straight "S" model coin comparator.
I don't know off-hand what coin comparitors the straight S models use.....maybe another member can help there!
Good luck!

okay,
flyinryan sent me a couple of photos of his coin mech on the door panel.
I cannot blow it up though as it was sent to me in a very small size - I cannot get a better look at it.
I don't have much info on the old straight "S".
Let's see if we can dig up some old archives and find some help for this Aussie guy? Thanks!  :89-
There must some info for the wiring diagram on the old S coin comparator somewhere?


The CC appears to be a "Scandic *sic*  International" ?
I heard of these but never seen one.

Hi Ryan

It seem that the harness is pretty much okay apart from the wires going to the comparator and that the whole coin in assembly is the same as that found on a S+ machine.
Can you confirm that machine sees door closed and adds credits when you press the white test switch on the optic board with the door open ?

If the problem is just with the comparator a quick and dirty fix is simply to remove the comparator and put something under the coin rake (the metal part that attached to the coil at the back of the comparator) so that coins now always drop straight through the comp and go to the optic assembly instead of getting diverted to the reject chute.

If this works at least we know everything else on the harness is OK. This does mean however that anything of the right size dropped into the machine will credit it but should not be an huge issue for home use.

I dont have info on the scandic comparator - can You maybe remove the platic cover of the unit and post an up close picture of the coin mech PCB - with any luck its a direct clone of a CC comparator.

Edit - There is a pic of the part I am talking about in this thread http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=26573.0

have attached a wiring diagram - Quality is not great and there is some detail missing.

Hey TZ, thanks for giving this buddy a hand!  :3-
I figured you might know more about the euro straight "S"  :89-
That pdf is awesome!
I had nothing on the straights!

hi guys just letting you know i am still stuck on this one here... any ideas on where i can get the whole harness made i can only source one that goes from the main harness to the comparator ifi could get one that is the same as the on in the 1st 2 pictures would be awesome ive even tried new comparators and no luck with them either... any ideas and this pic is a blown up pic of my coin mech board ive circled the blown resistor if any1 knows the value of it that would be a massive help to..  thanks in advance guys....   :99-

this is the loom im in need of, it is missing the 3 pin connector that is supposed to plug in to the coin comparator label...

 any ideas...  :31-

Are you sure you have an S and not an S+ non imbedded (No Bill Validator) 1992 they were well into the S+ line

I pulled 2 S Harness just now and one is similar but no diverter plug, but has the smaller optic plug. however the coin mech pigtail has been spliced in. The other S harness is the newer type optic end and has the CC-16 pigtail just like the day it was made but still no diverter plug

Is the MPU on the back wall and does it just lift out or is there 3 plugs that have to be unplugged to remove the board from game.??

Hi m8 thanks 1stly  4 ur help , there is 3 plugs on the main board in the bottom of the machine and to be honest I dont no wat I have,  I love slot machines and this is my 1st..... send me your email n ill send u plenty of pics etc and if u get this working 4 me will gladly pay u some $$$$$$     :-)    the only problem I can pick is with that cord that goes from a 12 pin molex to the coin comparator and optics/solenoid/door optics in the pic there thanks again