New Life Games Tech Forums

My machine has an irritating little problem, (amongst others).  The electric/electronic Handle lockout buzzes or chatters most of the time during play
especially when you play one credit.  Pulling the handle a few times will help sometimes, sometimes not.  For a few plays I will get good solid clicks, then back to chattering.
I downloaded the S+ manual file on here and cant seem to find any info on it as far as cleaning, maintenance or repair.  Is this a common problem and what do guys suggest
 as to repair or just replace? Where can I find a replacement? 

Look around...see what's loose there? You know how to pull the handle out?
Once you do it, you'll see it's a piece of cake...something HAS to be loose to rattle...

Do I need to remove the whole unit, or is it possible to maybe fix in place, I havent figured out just how to remove the cashbox yet,
as I have been working on the hopper problem etc.

Here is some info that may help, thanks to Kenneth.

http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=122.0 (http://newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?topic=122.0)

Ron

You can verify the problem before you remove anything!  with no tilts on machine   open door, press self test switch until you get a 10 1 in the winner paid window, turn jackpot reset key until you get a 16 1 in same window, handle solenoid should be energized, and allow you to pull handle ,as the handle stoke is finished the 1 should change to a  0  this tests the switch.  if your solenoid is buzzing, you can stick you head in the machine and see exactly what is making the noise.

You don't have to remove handle to remove solenoid, remove the three nuts (7/16) holding the solenoid ,unplug , pullout and push toward front of machine, it takes a little force and wiggling but it can be removed. there is a bridge rectifier that goes out all the time, its located on the solenoid itself, its that lump between the two contact posts.  either replace the coil assembly or the bridge itself.  should fix your problem.

Jim

I get it....the rectifier, when bad, makes the solenoid plunger buzz?

What would it cost to replace this?  I cant find a part number in the manual

The number on top of my rectifier is :  MIC W08M
 I cut the yellow tape off to expose it for you...this one needs to be changed as well anyways>>

Click on pic to enlarge!

Mark   as you can see it will take some delicate soldering to replace, the hardest part is the two thin coil wires. Also you have too pay attention to the positions on the rectifier, the two a/c  inputs (which are the two posts)  and then the  "+"  sign and the "--"  sign. that go to the two coil wires.

Mouser sells the part, less than one dollar each.

the coil gets 24vac from the board, and the rectifier turns that into approx. 21vdc. Its this voltage that pulls in the coil plunger.  When it go bad,usually only provides 12vdc, and the plunger "chatters'  or buzzs'  

Jim

So I worked on it.
I re-soldered the broken wires going to the rectifier and
installed a couple of new fittings on the ends that go back to the motherboard.
Now, all I have to do is tape it all back up securely, stick the mech and handle back on.
Re-connect the wires and the handle oughta last what....another 20 years? :72-

Click on the picture to bring it out larger and more clearer!>>

Find a 24vac source  and test it right as you have it,  it will just pull the plunger in and you will know if it is ready to go.

Jim

Yeppers,
Works great!...All taped up and ready go go back in!

The next photo is the solenoid without power but back in the handle mech>>

Delicate soldering is NOT my forte, can you get a replacement for the whole assembly?

Now it's powered up!
Noticed the plunger pulled by the (solenoid) coils' magnetic fields>>
Second pic is the juice I applied to it...closer to 23Vdc really>>>

Throw it in a box and send it to me...I'll fix it for ya!


oh by the way....no more buzzing!

For future reference, this post can also be found in Rick's FAQ under IGT S+ How To Tips and General Repair (http://www.newlifegames.net/faq1/faq.php?category_id=9&cat_name=IGT%20S+%20How%20To%20Tips%20and%20General%20Repair):
http://www.newlifegames.net/faq1/faq.php?answer=22&cat_name=IGT%20S%20%20How%20To%20Tips%20and%20General%20Repair&category_id=9#22 (http://www.newlifegames.net/faq1/faq.php?answer=22&cat_name=IGT%20S%20%20How%20To%20Tips%20and%20General%20Repair&category_id=9#22)

that IS a very good post Kenneth made there :89- :3- :131-!

Actually, it was the first of several that I had earmarked to upload into the FAQ section on the old site back in 2007, but shortly after adding his posts to the FAQ, the FAQ database locked us out and I was never able to upload any of the others. I had saved the links to the posts, but not the posts themselves because I never thought that we'd lose the whole site. :8-  So all of those links to useful how-to posts are now EOL. :60-

Send me a PM with your address and I will send you a complete replacement with bracket, pawl, spring and harness at no charge. I take them off when I put the handles on my Pachislo machines since I don't mind a free pull situation on the Japanese machines. I just went down to my parts box and I have it sitting on my desk for you.

Frank A

Hi All,

stayoutt, I don't mean to question you as I have lost most of my electronics's knowledge I received in high school many years ago, But shouldn't You test this coil repair with AC power? As if I remember correctly a rectifier converts AC to DC. Please set Me strait if I'm wrong as I can always use a refersher.   :103-

haha...I had a laugh about this with one of our members, who had pointed that out to me earlier today.
I put the handle mech in and it still works....no buzzing, it's beautiful....I still don't know why :96-

The funny thing is: I had done the solenoid power test with a BK Precision 32Vdc bench top Power Supply...and it worked.
Now, why it also works in my S+ is a mystery to me as well.   :5-

Ok I had to look this up, As You can see in this cut sheet that supplying DC to this circuit the device will work fine as long as the rectifier is good. If a diode in the rectifier was bad it would not pas DC power to the device. I have been dealing with Diodes and Zenner diodes the last couple of days and have jogged a lot of brain cells that have been missing for a long time. I don't know if this is good some times it hurts.  :97-

Excellent, excellent answer, m79crew! :3-

If I were Joey, I'd give you a free S2000.... :96-

Well I don't know if it is correct but I would take a S2000 for it. Joey do You need my shipping address? :71-

  While in the process of starting to pull the handle assembly, I found this plastic like red orange goo that has dripped down out of it
all the way down to the top of the power supply cover.  Its not water soluble and has no smell that I can discern.  Any guesses as
to what this gunk is? 
  Also I though I would try to remove the cashbox/dbv mounting (so I wouldnt have to stand on my head to remove the handle mount)
 but was unable to do so, I seems there is a nut on the lower right rear that has no access. Am I missing something here? Can(http://) this be removed?

oh oh....something's melting...I wonder what that is?
I think it's coming from the handle mech.

Do you think???   perhaps the shock absorber" expanded"


Jim

That could explain the " rattlin' " noises pardner!

Except for the off and buzz/rattle the handle mech works great, nice and smooth.
Is this bumper rubber something I really need to replace  :104-

Well, it would stop the buzzing noises I think....check with FrankA, he has something for you I think