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I bought this today. All that comes on is the fan and there's a CLICK near the coin acceptor.  Nothing else... no video, screen is dead. Fuses are good...checked continuity and cleaned sockets. Checked all the connections/plugs. There is no battery on the MPU that I can see.

Inside pics please...

But here's a twin...fully working...

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/clt/4065895287.html (http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/clt/4065895287.html)

The power supply is behind the hopper. I removed it and didn't see anything obviously wrong, which doesn't really mean much. Checked all molex plugs, etc... There IS power going to the florescent light in the door - bulb is out. The CRT doesn't light up at the plug. I'm not an expert at CRT's so I don't really know what to look for there. I think I need to test the power out of the power supply but I have no idea what voltages are supposed to be coming out of where!

more...

Might not be the lamp in the door. Could be the starter. They usually are the first to go.
Look for a round can, push down turn left. Can get replacements at Home depot in a package of 2 for <$5

Any fuses ? check those for continuity with a multi meter.

Thanks Jay!

Is there static on the CRT.
ON a TV that is ON but no picture if you run your finger around the edges you can feel the static.

I noticed there is a big plunger switch. Sometimes these cut power when a door is opened. This is a safety.
The ones on video games are designed to be pulled out when the door is open so the service tech can have power when doing diags.
Check this out. The switch may be faulty.... (with the power off) use a multimeter to check the switch function.

Generally on the motherboard there is a 3.5v cell soldered on. Possibly the big blue thing on the front of the board.
You can check for any voltage on that...... (with the machine off).
I am not sure if this would stop you from booting - my PE+ gives me a visual message that says battery low.

The battery is the black box on the MPU marked something "Sentry".
Look it over for the voltage or Google the part # to see if a replacement is available.

Thanks Jay and Proten!
No static on the screen. I thought the blue can was a capacitor. Soon as I get home I'll check the "sentry" ... thought that was a filter! I'm not sure where the plunger is Jay? There's three small push button switches on the right but they are clear of the door. I think those might be for set up procedures.
Hmmmm...just looked at my own picture again noticed that "data sentry" looks like it's corroded from the inside.

Ok I just de-soldered out a Data Sentry DS-2GT 2.4v nicad battery which is DEAD. Found one on ebay but I'm wondering if anyone knows a comparable replacement? I may pry the cap off and see what's inside... I have this feeling there's going to be two 1.2 volt nicads in series! Let's see if I'm correct... I'll be back.

Well looky here! I carefully popped off the cap to find what I suspected! Two (dead) 1.2v nicads in series, using just two prongs of the four. I think I can fabricate a replacement easily.

I'm just replying to myself in case this comes up for someone else. Highly unlikely but you never know!
Here's my solution: These cells don't fit like the old ones,  but I think I can solder them side by side and fit them back on the base.
Final pics coming...but I have to go to work!

I made a nice battery pack for the MPU. Powered it up. There is static on the screen but it's dark. No sounds...just the same click near the CC on the door. Heat is coming from the heat sinks on the MPU so power is getting there as well. I think it's beyond my capabilities...

Congrats on the good start!!!!

There are three buttons on the right side of the machine.
Try holding them down when turning on the lot.
Start by holding the top one, then the 2nd and so forth.
And it could be a combo of any three buttons.

Nothing...tried all combinations.
There's no static on the screen anymore either. It's a little dry here - maybe it was just "regular" static!

Well then the next thing I'd try is to check your power.
Start at the plug and use a DVOM to follow the power.

I hate AC !  :37-
Well it's getting power to the door, and the MPU. There are two output plugs on the power supply but I have no idea what voltages should be where...

UPDATE: Okay I pulled out the CRT again, looked for anything obvious...nothing.
Checked the plug to the CRT with my meter: it IS getting 110VAC but not lighting up...

Anyone??
Can't seem to get any replies anymore. If anyone want's this machine, it's going back on Craigslist I guess. I'm rapidly losing interest since it seems to be a CRT problem...I think.
I'm just going to go on a five mile jog now.  :7-

SEVEN DAYS since any reply! Did everyone go on vacation???  :37-
Well if anyone's ALIVE out there...
there now IS static on the CRT but still no picture. I know power is getting to everything else but there is no sound or anything indication a boot up sequence. I replaced the dead battery on the MPU but I don't know if that would have made any difference in the CRT turning on. It should come on regardless, I think.
 :99-

Yes, sir, there is at least one living person watching your posts, and feeling the frustration.
I haven't chimed in before because I have nothing helpful to offer. Have done some on-line
searching for the manufacturer or former employees thereof, but no luck yet.
And I'd buy the darn thing from you just for fun, but I just moved from N. San Diego county
to Portland.

Well good to know someone is reading!! The only thing I have found is that there is a completely different company at their address!
I said this on another thread... I think some of these machines are definitely becoming a dying breed and those who used to work on them, or know them are either gone or have no interest anymore. It's very frustrating...this machine still appears to be in great condition but all it does is make a nice humming sound from the fan!
Maybe I can use it as a white noise generator???  :97-

On obsolete equipment, I often find it useful to track down former officers or employees of the defunct company. As a retired engineer myself, I've got a garage full of parts from every
product I ever worked on; and love chatting with people about the old products.
So, here's what I found doing corporate searches:
1. Company founded in 1981. Co-founder & COO was Larry Dunn. He is now Sr VP & CFO for Kaman Music Corp. Bloomfield Ct. 860 509 8888. He may be able to get you in contact with a technical person.
2. They produced a whole line of arcade games up through the 1990's; many based on proprietary technology using laser disks to provide multiple game choices, and apparently video choices within a game. They licensed some of their games to other makers; I have the name of one coming to me: they might be able to provide info for you.
3.Status was a Delaware corporation, always based in New Jersey or Ct (I found 7 different addresses!), the Las Vegas address was a common ploy to permit legal "manufacture" of gaming equipment. The SEC revoked their stock-trading registration in 1993 after they ceased reporting. Most recent address was 336 Stamm Rd, Newington, CT 06111; 203 666 1960, now disco. Local company records might be able to give you some local employee names.
4. If there is a patent number on anything in the machine, I can look up the patent for the name(s) of inventor(s), who may also be of help.

Anyway, don't give up yet. This is a rare one, and well worth saving if possible. Good luck!

WOW...Thank You very much! I'll look and see if I can find a number...

The name of the outfit that licensed some games from Status Corp was Wood Place Inc, in the mid tio latge 80's.
I know nothing about them, or if they are still in business.

And here's a flyer of your rig, made as an arcade game.

Thanks for all that information! Interesting ... my video slot in a box!
I couldn't find any numbers other than what was on that tag in the photo at the beginning of my thread.
I don't really know what else to do. I couldn't find anything in the MONITOR section here. I'm about to toss in the towel. Too bad because it's so darn CLEAN looking! I'm just not so knowledgeable on CRT's. I just had hoped some of the initial responders would come back!
I think it's time to put this back on Craigslist!

So, how did it all eventually work out? Did you re-list & sell it?
If so, curious to know how much it went for.

Well I tried contacting the former owner of the company and never heard back. But thank you for the help! I gave up. It's sitting in my garage, covered and super clean...looks new almost. The monitor is powering up, it has static but there's not picture, no sound. I'm going to put in on CL when I get some time.

You could easily get a 8 liner or cherry master board and wire it up.

I'm not sure what you mean.

Not the cheapest place but a good overview.
http://www.slotsdirect.com/8linerboards.html (http://www.slotsdirect.com/8linerboards.html)

Basically a cherry master / 8 liner is a generic board that will plug into any CGA/VGA or Svga monitor.

They work with a basic harness that can be wired up to buttons and hoppers.

Google away....

Hmmmm...thanks. That might be fun and a good learning experience. I'm still a little worried if the CRT really works or not. I only have static on it...no visible light!

There's no question that your machine is kinda of rare and getting help on it would be sort of a challenge.
That's where your troubleshooting skills come into play here.
You need to get down to the nitty gritty and find out how to try to perform tests on the monitor.
Perhaps you can start by seeing what wires go to the monitor from the MPU?
Maybe that may give a clue as to what type of monitor they utilized in there and maybe you can search for similar help online?
Is there any stickers, labels, or circuit board etchings/markings that describe what CRT monitor it may be?
Not all CRT's are the same but many have similar troubleshooting procedures?

Well I can certainly give it a try! I've always been hesitant working on CRT's - my only limited education was DC and digital technology and that was back before there was electricity!  :50- :72-
But I do have two other old video slots and it would be nice to learn this for future issues. AND this Status slot is in such CLEAN condition, it would be nice to see it come alive again. I'll start poking around. I'll make sure the power is on and I'm barefoot, and wet...just kidding...  :50- :50- :50-

Personally, that big red rubber thing on the back of the monitor scares the crap outta me!
I remember once trying to tape wire to a big screwdriver, clamping the end to the chassis
and grounding it out with one hand in my pocket.
I asked someone to be with me for fear of flying across the room knocking myself out...LoL
The loud crackling sound when you touch the metal under the rubber cap
with the screwdriver tip...is disconcerting to say the least!

Me too! And that CAP that's the size of a 50 gal drum spooks me too! I know there's discharge instructions here...I'll need to find them.

Glad I stirred it up again: I agree with the bunker man, a rare machine is worth recovering.
Will do a bit more research, this time on the technical side, to see what I can come up with.
No bets (pun intended...) but it could be fun.

Thanks Bunker and Silver!  :3-

Darrell did that years ago...tinkering around in the garage one summer, barefoot, holding a beer....lets just say it got ugly! But he learned what NOT to do...real quick!

Just getting back to the inital synopsis: Turn Machine on, static on monitor.....
This would lead me to believe that the monitor is good but no output is coming from the MPU.

Before we go down the road of discarging monitors, and throwing cap kits around it would seem to me that trying a known output source would be a valid troubleshooting step.
Ie Connect the VGA output of a laptop to the Monitor and see if anything shows up. We are not looking for picture perfect convergance, just enough to say that if the MPU was outputting something it would show up on the screen.

Are we getting any other poker noises or such and just a blank screen ?

No sounds... no lights (there IS power to the fluorescent tubes...they're burned out). There are some transistors (I think) on the MPU with heat syncs. Those do get warm. Not scalding... but plenty warm. How do I create a VGA input from wires on the CRT? I've never done any work on monitors, ever.  :37-

The VGA pin out is relatively simple.

The question however is which wire is which.

Step 1 is to identify the make and model if possible of the monitor. From there we can find a manual, determine if the input is CGA, VGA etc.

 :211- Post some pictures - some of the guys on the forum are pretty sharp and may be able to ramble off pinouts in their sleep.

This sounds fun! Thank you very much. I've suddenly got some renewed interest here.
I'll take some pics SOON and post. And I'll head down to Mar Vac, the last remaining true electronics store in Orange County Ca, I think. I love making custom cables. One thing I do need is a monitor extension cable again. I borrowed from from Jim but returned it, thinking I wouldn't need it again.  :279-

Shortrackskater, noticed in an older post that you have a Casino Electronics/Omega "Casino Poker" machine.
Any chance the CRT and/or video drivers are the same? Can't have been too many suppliers of CRTs to such
a small specialized industry at the time.

I just picked up one of the Casino Poker machines, looks much like yours, everything works.
If there's anything I can check or compare on mine for you, glad to help.

Any chance you have a manual for this thing?

Hi
I do have a manual, and it's in my hand now. For the life of me, I can't remember where I got it. I'm going to poke around my computer and see it's on pdf. Mine is an actual manual - 9 chapters plus 3 appendixes. It's  Version 51.0X Video Poker. Is there a version on yours? Mine is hand written near the MPU board.

No clue what version it is; ...yet.
Haven't taken it apart yet: everything works so I'm not inclined to "fix" it.
But I'd like to disassemble enough to clean it, learn basics of adjustments and
option selections, and maybe find out why there are TWO "jackpot reset" keyswitches :103-

I have an excellent professional scanner with PDF output. I'd be glad to scan any manual
you (or any NLG'er)  have and generate a PDF from it.

Can you post a picture of the inside? You probably should start a new thread for this though as I may eventually try and fiddle with my Status poker slot.
I'm thinking someone may have mailed me that manual. Whoever it was my resurface. If not, and if this one will work for you, I could mail mine for you to copy. I do have a decent photocopier too... just haven't used it in a while.

I think I'll keep this machine for now... convinced by SolidSilver and Jay to fiddle with it some more, including trying to isolate the problem to determine if it's the CRT or not.
I poked around a little bit last night and I have a strong feeling it's in the MPU, and not the CRT. Reason being there is no error sound or any sound of the machine trying to work. Nothing happens when I insert a coin as well. I still feel static on the CRT so apparently it's getting power but no signal.
One thing... and this might be really silly sounding since I have no schematic or the MPU, but there are four transistors with heat sinks on them. Three are nice and  hot, as they probably should be (not burning hot). One is COLD as ice. Could this possible be the problem? The three toasty ones are in one part of the pc board, but the one above is the "coldie." I know this is NOT the way to troubleshoot but you never know. Any comments again?

Have you checked the caps on the board?
Can you post a good picture of the board

Coming into this a little late, and I know nothing about these machines, but looking at the MPU picture, right below that Sentry battery, there are 4 voltage regulators with heat sinks. Three are 7805s and one is a 7806. You can check the voltage output of them. From the heat sink screw (ground) to the right leg you should get +5VDC on the 7805s and +6VDC on the 7806. If you get nothing, check from the heat sink screw to the left leg. That wold be your input power.

Thanks Poppo, for posting (it's been awhile!), and everyone else keeping me alive in this! I'll get to the mpu board ASAP and check voltages and post a pic as well.

I'll check voltages soon. For now here's some pictures. There's one showing the four voltage regulators. There's one above the four. That's the cold one.

Here's the sticker on the monitor. Do I need to post a picture of the plug to the monitor?

The LM383 that is on that other heat sink is the audio amplifier. And that pot next to it (VR1) is most likely the volume control. It would not hurt to turn it back and forth a few times. sometimes they build up some oxidation on the wipers and will stop the sound from working. As is, it looks like the whole unit is dead since you have no audio or video. If there actually is sound, that might help narrow things down.

The Electrohome GO7 series monitors are one of the most common, exceptionally popular for arcade games.
Many parts available, as well as complete monitors, cap kits, and folks set up to repair.

So, if it turns out you have a monitor problem, fret not   :)

Okay I checked the input and output voltages on the voltage regulators. The one (in the close up shot) that's just to the left of my home made battery (top cell) has approx 9VDC input and about .17VDC coming out. It's not hot, like the rest are! I also adjusted the audio pot and still got no sound.

I assume the other 7805s have 5V out? If so, time for a trip to radio shack. The 7805 should be about $1.25

Yes all others show the proper output voltage. Soon as I can get out of this building I'll head to MarVac...one of the only REAL electronics stores around. Thanks Mark! I'll post back soon.  :3-

Now it's possible you have something else bad (shorted) that caused the 7805 to go out. So after you replace it and turn on power, feel it (carefully) to make sure it's not getting REALLY hot. If it is, turn off the power asap as something else is bad.

FYI, the new 7805 may be labeled just 7805 or LM7805 or something else (xx7805). As long as it's the same 3 terminal package it will be fine.

Replaced the 7805 regulator and got a LIVING machine.  :3-
The screen was normal (but said CALL ATTENDANT). I pressed a few of the buttons inside and and it just sounded a quick "squeal" alarm. So I turned the power off and on and got this! I have no idea which control I need to adjust. I have no room in back to stick my hand in there without removing the monitor. I don't know what this adjustment is but it's probably on the back side of the CRT. Looks like Horizontal hold but I don't see that on the back pots.
UPDATE: I found it in the manual... I'll pull it out and just move it slightly one way, and then the other.

YAHOO, you've saved that rare old girl :244- :244- :244-
Persistence pays off!

It played once, then stopped and kept giving me an alarm if I manually tried to trip the coin pin-lever. Messed with it and tried EVERY combination of buttons but kept getting CALL ATTENDANT. I could reset it each time but it would repeat the same error. Finally I SHUT the door, inserted a coin and it played! And I won!
I haven't tried to pay out yet but this was a HUGE surprise getting it working tonight. Thank you Solid Silver for "making" me keep it and thank you Mark for the help when I found the cold voltage regulator! I'll try the hopper soon.
Strange thing is there's no switch on the door to "tell" the machine it's opened. I wonder if there some magnetic in the coin mech area? I don't see anything different there but I've also never seen a machine like this one.
Oh...and I got the belly light working last night... it had simply fallen out and was wedged in the bottom.  :72-

Well I gently pulled out the monitor and adjusted the brightness and FOCUS and got a NICE super sharp picture...much better looking than the one posted here.
To top it off... ALL the lights work, the sound works, and the hopper works. I guess I'll be keeping this funny old machine.
After playing for awhile... this machine is surprisingly advanced for being so old. When drawn a potentially winning hand, it displays what you have: straight, flush, two pair, etc... whereas my Fortune one and my CEI just let you decide if there's a winning hand or not! It even shows ONE pair of a non winning hand, in case you want to draw and maybe get two pair.
Another interesting thing is that if you press HOLD and change your mind, you have to clear ALL your holds and start over with the HOLD choices.

Good job on your progress so far!  :3- :3- :3-

Congradulations....  :244-

Here's a video of my working (so far!) Status slot. Sorry for the crackly audio.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-NcKZYJdjE&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-NcKZYJdjE&feature=youtu.be)

UPDATE: It would work, but I was getting frequent hopper jams, and a runaway hopper. I was also getting coin-in errors.
I *think* I've fixed all the issues.
For the coin-in errors it seemed the metal pin attached to the coin drop switch was being hit "too slow" (as suggested by SolidSilver) so I just lubricated the switch. It worked for awhile but returned, so I cleaned the coin mech as well, and adjusted the coin width screw. That seemed to do the trick. I've now inserted at least 200 coins and it is working.
For the hopper, I found I had two issues. When I would try to pay out, the hopper would start and the screen would begin to count coins, then stop and the hopper would just keep whirring. That problem was the One coin count switch (or whatever it's called). It just needed an adjustment screw to be turned in about one time, and then the switch began to register coins again.
Once that was fixed, it worked but would occasionally jam during a payout. That problem ended up being the chute that diverts the coins to the tray. Over time, it had migrated to one side, keeping the coins from rolling out and down to the tray. I used my flat pliers and was able tweak it to the left and align it properly.
The machine now works and pays out perfectly.  :3-
I also spent some time adding some missing wire ties back to the machine. It sounds funny but I really enjoy getting the INSIDES cleaned up and wires routed properly. :71-  
The monitor had some kind of attachment screws at the ends. I found some drywall inserts that plugged in and work great to keep the monitor from movement. I also (see my very first picture) re-mounted the three service switches on the far right of the machine using an large washer in the inside and outside. It looks much nicer than the sheet metal screws someone had wedged in to hold the switches in place.
The only thing I need to do now is adjust the vertical size and I think it will be nearly perfect! I really need some extension cables... it's a pain to prop the CRT on a box and get my hand to the back of the monitor all while avoiding a little shock therapy!  :50-

I think I may be just talking to myself now but I'll post anyway in case someone, somewhere acquires one of these oddities!  :72-
For now, It's working, completely. I've played it for an hour with no issues. It pays out correctly too with no jams or "non-count" errors. The only thing it does that's interesting, (but I have a feeling this may have been this way originally) is that if there are credits registered and a coin in inserted, it does NOT register. It just drops into the hopper! Hmmm... that's a way to earn money for the casino! I may be wrong. You'd think the coin entry switch would remain enabled with credits...  :103-

Some of us are still following.

Again, I know nothing about that machine. but on a S+ slot, there is a coin diverter that moves to drop "extra" coins back into the tray vice the hopper. Look for something (like a plate or gate) with a solenoid on it in the coin path. A "fix" for a bad solenoid on a S+ was to tie strap the diverter so coins always went to the hopper. Perhaps someone did something similar, or something is unplugged.

Glad you're following. :)
I'll check that again. I looked but sometimes I don't look enough.

Follow the coin path from where you drop it all the way. It may supposed to get diverted early in the drop if there are credits. Just speculating, but the machine should not take coins without giving credits or diverting to the tray.

It should work just like your CEI: there are TWO solenoid-activated coin diverters.

The first one, when the machine is powered down or in an error situation, routes coins to the output tray.
This is the one you hear click when you turn the machine on. A CEI with credits will refuse to accept
new coins until the credits are played off; it does so by deactivating this diverter. It's usually physically
part of the coin acceptor itself.

This is what is probably causing the problem. It's stuck/unlubricated,  jammed with something, or the solenoid coil is burned out.
Since you mentioned the "click" in the door area when firing up, it sounds like a dead coil is unlikely.

The second one diverts coins headed for the hopper to an "overflow" box, when the machine thinks
its hopper is full.

Just the goverment .... We are listening......  :205-

 :131-
Thanks!

I just realized something after reading your replies. I'm not even home now, but I just visualized the inside of my door and remembered the two CUT wires that were quite close to one of the solenoids. I wonder if THAT is it? I'll check soon as I get home for lunch.  :209-

I have a feeling another solenoid was here...or something was! There's two wires that have been clipped! See picture.
I tried a few different things just to rule out stuff. I put in a different coin mech, and the same thing happened: if there's credits registered, the coin just drops into the hopper and does NOT register another credit. I also tried entering a coin with the power off. To my surprise, it diverts the coin into the overflow tube! I can't really see where another solenoid would go... I'll get some more wine and look again.  :197-

With power off, look and see how the coin drops to the tray. Is it diverted before that solenoid in the picture? And with power on, what does that one do? Do you have the door switch bypassed so you can watch the coin drop under different conditions? I'm just wondering if the one in your picture is either not working or maybe the diverter arm is not positioned correctly.

 I would be hooking up a meter to the other solinoid and determine operating voltages. I would then connect to the other set of wires and go through the motions of playing your game and see under what conditions the power comes on / off

Thanks Poppo and Jay. I'll try and get to this tonight and post my findings.

Here's what I found so far. Again, I apologize for the crappy audio. I need a new video camera, but I think you will understand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ud5GZpc4Ok&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ud5GZpc4Ok&feature=youtu.be)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ko-3o6_jfAo&feature=youtu.be (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ko-3o6_jfAo&feature=youtu.be)

What is above the coin mechanism?  It seems from the physical layout that if the coin was going to get diverted to the tray, it would have to happen earlier in the drop. Look carefully at the coin path and see if there is any way prior to, or within the coin mechanism for it to get diverted to the tray as was noted by SolidSilver earlier

There's nothing. The coin drops straight into the mech. The only way it can ever go to the return/cash tray is if the coin mech itself rejects the coin.  :103-
But then there's those wires...
I have this feeling someone, at some time, did some crude repair job here.

The answer lies in the photo of the mech you just posted. You have a standard Coin Mach Inc input,
probably semi-dentical to what's in your CEI.

Here's a marked-up version of that photo:
The sideways-arrow points to a slot in the coin mech.
Behind that mech should be a small solenoid that just sticks
a short pin into that slot out toward your face. The falling coin hits
the pin, and is diverted sideways into the chute noted with the
upward-pointing arrow; that chute leads to the payout tray.

Someone has removed the solenoid (probably busted); if it was
in place and dead, ALL coins would go to your payout tray.

To prove it to yourself, do two things:
1. With door open, stick a small nail into the slot and drop in a coin.
It should divert into the payout tray chute.

2. Compare the layout with your CEI.

Here's comparative pics from a CEI, much like yours:
The one labeled COIN MECH has an arrow pointing to the slot
with the solenoid pin sticking out. The circles show the two latches
that permit you to hinge the coin mech down, exposing the solenoid.

The pic labeled COIN MECH IN (terrible pic, my apologies) has the coin
mech hinged down, exposing the solenoid. Note the solenoid operates a
simple swinging arm which bears a short pin.

Yours should look a whole lot like this; except the solenoid is missing.

Yep! I pulled mine out and there was the obvious... a PLACE complete with two screw holes for a solenoid! I took a picture but forgot to bring my memory card so I'll post when I get back. I think I knew all this... so simple! Of course, now I should take the initiative and find or make a replacement part. Shouldn't be too hard?

...or call Coin Mech Inc at 800 323 6498, and ask for a replacement "optional Lockout solenoid"
for their Model 1700001 25-cent Back Channel Assembly. I think yours is 6 volts?

(They still make the same mechanism and spare parts :3-

Here it is on their website:

http://www.coinmech.com/product_profile.cfm?id=35 (http://www.coinmech.com/product_profile.cfm?id=35)

Thank you!!! I know this should have been the first thing to do...remove the coin mech and LOOK!
Here it is anyway.

Y' know, every day that pretty and rare machine gets better and better, as you
track things down and fix 'em.  Pretty soon there'll be nothing left to diddle with,
and it will become boring.

When that happens, my shipping address is...  :88-

The funny thing is, I have two "new" machines in the garage: my Bally Game Maker and my Status. But right now, I'm having more FUN playing the Status since I had given it up for dead. But thanks to you and Poppo and Jay and CV slots and Proten, I had the extra drive to try one more time... and now it's alive again.  :92-

I hope topics like this and the Fortune One don't die out either.

I have a new problem. Well it happened before and I though I had fixed it. Every so often, when I press cash out, it wont count the coins as they come out of the hopper. After 8 or so coins come out, the machine locks up. I can press a reset button inside and the hopper will resume and empty the coins out, and lock up again. The only way to fix it is to power off the machine. After that, the hopper resumes and the machine starts the count, and then pays out properly.
I've checked the switch that is activated when the coin pops off the roller. It works fine. I made sure I checked it during the error condition as well. As far as I can see, all the connectors to the hopper are clean.
Does anyone know what circuit is responsible to activate the counting on the MPU? There's also a small solid state relay on the hopper, but I'm not sure what that is for.

Hmmm...; I like this machine: no end of fun puzzles :103-

OK, do you know it is actually not counting the coins? Can you see a
coin-out count on the screen, or are you able to check a coin-out meter?
It would seem you have the counting switch thing well in hand.

The machine's tiny brain may be getting conflicting signals on whether
or not the hopper is empty or full. That hopper was built before there were coin-level probes
such as used in more modern machines. One way the old ones handled it was by weight
of coins, sensing the position of a spring-supported hopper with a microswitch;
Your hopper is so equipped: see the red arrow on the attached pic of your hopper.
If that switch is a little dicey or misadjusted, it may be getting "bounce" tripped one way or the
other during the vibration of a long payout. A jittering signal to the computer (now it's on, now it's off...)
could confuse that tiny little mind and cause it to lock up. I don't know how it's set up, whether to actuate the
overflow diverter on a full hopper, or to cease payout (call for handpay) on an empty one.

My guess would be it's intended to operate the overflow hopper when full, but ya'  never know.
Try checking/readjusting/bypassing that switch; it's worth a shot...

Forgot to say... I did check that switch too. It does as it should - when there's added weight, it flips the divertor (spelling?) and the coins go to the overflow. And, yes when it won't count, it's the screen count AND the meter count that just stops, while the hopper is churning out coins for a little while. When I power off , then on and press the reset button, the screen counter resumes as coins are spitted (spat? I'm tired!) out of the hopper, and then the mechanical counters tally up the output.

I believe the tenses are:
Present-SPIT
Past-SPAT
Pluperfect-SPUT :)

Very weird: one would expect you'd see a "coin out" or "output jam" error, and a Call Attendant notice.
I'm lost, pal. It's my turn to watch & wait for someone brighter to pitch in  :310-

In the meantime, I'll keep pondering.... :171-

Forgot! Yes, when the coins were "spitted" out, the machine locks up and CALL ATTENDANT is displayed. From that point is when the only way to clear the error is to power off, on and press one of the black buttons that I'm calling a "reset" button. The others don't do anything... well the red one does and it's really weird - but it doesn't clear the error!

I don't think it's a mechanical or hopper issue. I'm going to pull out the MPU board again and just spray some contact cleaner (carefully) on each IC that's in a socket and lift all of them up and then back in just to make sure there's no issue with dirty contacts. 

Yeah. probably something like that. Most e-lectronic problems originate in basic mechanical connections;
that's one of the reasons I don't trust e-lectronics. Gimme a gear or chain drive, or cam/microswitch any time;
at least I can physically see the damn problem. (Oops, is my age showing...? :280-  )

In the meantime, one electromechanical thing that would cause such an issue is what we used to call "switch lag."
This is when a switch (including it's external mechanical connections) is actuated too rapidly for it to sense. In your case,
it would occur with insufficient mechanical lubrication, weak return spring, inappropriate adjustment, etc. on a steady-stream
cashout pay. Very much like "valve float" at high revs on a 283 Chev V8: the mechanism doesn't quite react fast enough to return to
bottom before the next up-kick from the cam. Perhaps your output-count microswitch lever is not quite getting to bottom
before the next coin lifts it. This could make the difference between a few-coin payout and a steady-stream "cashout."

I sincerely hope such is NOT the problem: I'd rather it be an issue with some damn chip or soldered-in board component:
we old mechanical guys need some "told ya so" points from time-to-time  :276-

FUNNY you should say that! :)
That was the first thing I did check when that problem started. I just (like two minutes ago) returned from the garage after removing the MPU and carefully shooting contact cleaner in the IC sockets and making sure the chips were seated. Worked for awhile... then did it again!  :25-
Maybe I will return to the adjustable switch. I turned it in at first, thinking that was the problem Maybe I should have actually turned it out more? I guess I could check it during a payout and just manually flip the roller as I adjust the screw until it stops counting, then turn it in a little. Does that make sense?
It's still FUN playing it... I just got 4 of a kind!  :3-

Microswitches do occasionally go bad. Very often the case gets cracked and then they either won't make, or won't break, on even numbered days in months with an 'R' in them (or some such unfathomable schedule). I would try changing the coin out microswitch before I started fiddling with the electronics.

This is actually a very interesting machine. The total program memory is only 6k! Quite an achievement to do a poker in 6k. It also has only 2k of video RAM and 1k of system RAM, plus 256 bytes of battery backed. Such a machine couldn't be made today - the art has been lost. Young whippersnappers of today couldn't write a "Hello World" program in less than a megabyte.

Thanks! I may just try that... it's an easy switch to get to...
What I also like is that the machine tells you if you have one, or two pair... or any winning combination, which I think is a nice feature. It plays much "friendlier" than my Fortune One! 

"4 of a kind:" that's what my wife says about my friends and I when we adjourn to
the basement gameroom with chips, booze, and cigars. Beats anything on TV!

If you decide to re-diddle (that's a technical term  :186- )  with the switch,
I suggest you start by lubing (WD40) the rocker-arm mechanism including the tip roller.
Hangup or hesitation in that very heavy mechanical train will exacerbate any switch misadjustment.

But far more important, it is absolutely critical that you reframmify the geschunztenhauer;
otherwise the entire schnauzenzable will...... (uh-oh, it's almost 1am and my wineglass is empty; be right back.....)

Shoot! I better pour a glass so I can understand your "Wineglish" speak!  :197-

I am absolutely positively convinced it's not the switch. I did check the rocker arm, lube the roller etc (actually did that earlier before I posted). What I also did was check that switch when the error was happening and it still was making and breaking contact as it should, without the meter reading the coin count out. BUT, when I powered off and on the machine, and manually flip the micro-switch, it then counts out.
So... I'm lost. It again worked for about twenty minutes, then didn't work, then did again! I can't seem to re-create any circumstances where it consistently fails.  :103-

Ok, so now we're going to have to look at the board. Most likely the problem is associated with a resistor that has broken internally and goes open circuit when it warms up. You're going to have to probe around and find which one it is.

One side of the microswitch is almost certainly ground. Trace the other wire back to the circuit board and find out where it comes in - most likely on the 25 pin connector, as I think the thick wires at bottom left of your pic on page 3 are power supplies. Use your meter, find the pin. Then trace the track on the board from the pin, to whatever it goes to. Somewhere along the way it will either go through a resistor to a chip, or to a resistor to 5V, or both. Change every resistor on that line. The ones on the board are all cheap and nasty carbon composition resistors that have a solid rod of carbon inside a little tube with the connecting wires buried in the ends. The rod inside may crack, or the wire come loose inside. Either will give you this kind of intermittent problem when the resistor warms up a few degrees.

I may be wrong, but even if I am, this is the very next thing I would check. If it doesn't cure the problem, the next step will be to replace the chip it goes to. I guess it's in that row of 1k resistors at the top, R14-R22, and the associated chip is the 8255, U11. Before you start chopping out resistors, inspect the board very carefully for bad joints, corrosion or shorts in that area, which can cause the same problem. These old boards that have bare tracks without a solder mask are prone to almost invisible shorts when they get old. It could also be in the connector. While you have the backshell off (to trace the wire) inspect the connections carefully.