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Hello...

I just bought this nice progressive slot from the antique show over the weekend.  It rusted because it was left in a cold and wet environment.  Surprisingly the electronics are working but not 100% yet.  Most of the fluorescent tubes are working except at the reels and the instruction card above the coin slot.  It also seems to be missing a few parts on the door.  I already cleaned out the dried-up lubricant that unlocks the crank handle since it started to turn into glue.  Still, I have a lot to clean including the reel stop solenoids that are sticking and the hopper that seized up.  Fun.

My main concern is that I'm trying to clear this error code 1 message I see on the LED win meter display.  I already replaced the dead lithium battery with a memory capacitor and it is holding a charge around 3.73 volts 12 hours after use.   (I don't think it was a good idea to use a non-rechargeable battery in this setup since no diode was present to keep it from getting charged whoever soldered in one.)  I tried reseating and swapping the memory chips and it came up something different on the LED display one time, but all other times, just a "1" appears whenever I close the door, hit the reset button or power down & up again.  Once in a while it will display a "7" on the upper displays.

I was able to find individual tests such as solenoid/lamp test, basic switch test, reel sensor test, etc by pushing the test button a few times.  I couldn't find the sound test or progressive jackpot display test.  All fuses are good.

I've already downloaded a manual and schematics, but any help will be greatly appreciated.  More images are available on request.

UPDATE: fixed a broken lead on the connector of the ribbon cable so the first digit of the 6-digit display is working again.  Clear chip on the way, cleaned out the hopper since it seized up, but it keeps blowing the fuse.  Instead of a 2000 series board, they used a 1000 series board installed.  I will check for defective TRIAC's, resistors and capacitors shortly.  I will have to order a couple of wheels since they are not moving freely like the other two under the platter.  One of the two sets of jackpot arrow lights aren't working, but the continuity between the lead and the TRIAC on the input/output driver board is good.  Live test shows that the output is active to the TRIAC.  Will try swapping with another one on the board to see if the problem follows.  Missing a "jackpot" bell and door buzzer.  Will try to find those two somewhere.  Any leads will be helpful. : ) 

UPDATE #2: After swapping the TRIAC on the I/O baord, the bulbs still did not work.  I hacked a light bulb test to two test jumpers--one on the wire of the lamps behind the jackpot display and another to the end of the suspicious TRIAC on the I/O board.  It lit during the test.  I looked back at the sockets on the jackpot wall.  They looked spread apart.  I grabbed my scribe and pushed them closer together and re-inserted the bulbs.  They work!  I decided to visit my local hardware store and pick up a couple of fluorescent tubes and starters, one for the reels and another for the payout notice underneath the win meter display.  I discovered on one side of the fixture above the reels the socket is broken.  I temporarily used electrical tape to hold the tube's pin against the exposed copper plate.  At first, it didn't light, but I replaced the starter.  That didn't help.  I wiggled the starter inside the socket and it lit the tube!  Then, I replaced the F4T5 tube behind the payout notice decal and starter.  It lit up automatically.  Going back to the hopper board, I took a look at the schematics--several times.  I'm thinking to myself that why in the world would they want to "short" the circuit to blow the fuse so they can disable the hopper if it malfunctioned?  Couldn't they use a relay instead to interrupt the power to the hopper motor?!  I'm seriously thinking of cutting the "s" wire to disconnect the disable circuit and later build my own hopper board.  The previous owner put electrical tape over the entire "25¢" decal in front of the lamp under the reels.  It is too short at the top and bottom so I split the electrical tape into two pieces and put them there.  Looks nice now.

UPDATE #3: ARGH!  So close!  I got the E-series clear chip and it did the trick--or at least I thought at first.  I put it in at P1 socket and turned it on.  The LED display showed some numbers while a "5" is the first digit to come up.  My progressive displays went bezerk showing and disappearing "7"s across two rows.  The LED then shows a "6" and the progressive displays stop showing numbers.  Next a "7" on the LED display and finally "o" while at a random location a "7" appears on the progressive displays.  I turned it off, removed the clear chip, carefully returned the P1 ROM chip and turned it on.  Within a fraction of a second, the the top arrows at the progressive displays light up and the LED display on the door is flashing "87" and " 0" on the left side while the rest of the displays are 0 with 2 dots in the center.  The "2nd coin" lights are blinking and the tilt light is on.  I tried hitting the test button at the hopper but no action from the machine.  I tried hitting the key reset switch and same thing.  I tried holding down the door-lock switch and push those two buttons again... nothing.  Then, I hit the reset switch at the hopper.  The LED display then shows "80 1%" with all 6 dots across the bottom and I tried again with the two switches, the progressive jackpot buttons at the bottom of the display and coin switch to see if the number changes.  No luck.  Then, I pressed the reset button.  The LED display briefly displayed "70 .0.00" and back to "  .. 1".  The game is inoperable.  ARGH!  Is there more than one RAM chip besides the two backed by a battery that's causing this error??  According to the manual, it only supplied the 1000-series error codes.  Are they they the same with the 2000 models?  What is the difference between "normal" memory and "safe" memory?  Do they reside in the battery-backup memory chips?  I'm stumped.  I'll try ordering a new set of 5101's and see what happens.  Gotta love "nibble memory" chips.  (1 nibble = 4 bits)

UPDATE #4: The TRIACs for the hopper board and I/O board came.  I've decided to replace the suspicious TRIAC for the hopper motor.  I also ran a coil resistance test on the motor itself and it measured 6.4 ohms.  My hunch tells me that it may be finished.  But, I pushed on.  I replaced the fuse and turned on the machine.  No issues so far.  I ran the hopper test and the lights blinked in my room and the machine reset.  Damn!  So, it did not survive whatever hell it went through!  The transformer is fine even though there's a lot of rust on it.  Need a new hopper motor, too.  Do they still make those?  Is it similar to the Rowe dollar-bill changer machine?

Photo with the added/replaced lighting.

I discovered extra lighting under the 25¢ marquee box that uses 63 bulbs.  That's something I normally don't carry and had to order them.  As soon as they arrived I replaced these.  They stay on all the time.

Those lights down by the coin tray are often overlooked or burnt out, but sure add a lot to the machine when they are lit!

another photo...
This time it's the light tower.  On the top row, the left side is the jackpot light the MPU board uses.  On the right side is the Service/Change light that is switched on by the push-button switch on the left side of the door.  They are both inside the white diffuser.  At the bottom is the Door Open/Malfunction light.  When the door is open, this bulb lights up.  When the MPU detected a malfunction, this same light blinks in sync with the feature lights on the door.  It uses the blue-green diffuser.  The door open overrides the malfunction flash feature.

UPDATE #5: I've decided to check every switch that's connected to the I/O board.  I know that every switch line is held up by a resistor connected to the +5V supply.  But, for some odd reason, I am not getting a reading from the coin-out hopper switch in the test mode.  The coin switch is ok, the key-reset switch is ok, the door switch is a little funky testing it.  Why?  Both the key-lock switch on the door (when you turn 180°, the lock is switched on) and the door switch behind the hinge are connected in series.  So, if I wanted to run a driver test with the door closed, I turn the lock until it holds the lock switch and close the door.  Because if I don't do it this way and close the door, the test is immediately aborted and returns to game mode.  Then I tested the coin-out switch at the hopper.  No +5V.  I turned off the machine and traced the wire to the I/O board.  The continuity test is good.  After checking the schematics, I tested the resistor tied with this input on the I/O board.  I'm getting an irregular reading like 169 ohms.  I checked the neighboring resistors and they are reading about 470 ohms, exactly as mentioned in the parts list.  So, for some odd reason this resistor shorted.  I don't know how.  Until I get a fresh order of resistors, I will simply "borrow" one from an unused circuit and hopefully that circuit will not interfere with the operation.  I also found one with a slightly lower resistance, measured 390 ohms, and that one will be replaced as well. 

On another note, I took apart the light tower to see if I have any burned out bulbs.  I pulled one out and took a look at the number on it.  It said "1866".  What kind of bulb is this?  So, I googled it and checked its power ratings: 6.3V, 0.25A.  Wait--this looks familiar.  I went to the same site that had its power ratings and typed in "44".  Exactly the same!  I replaced all 3 bulbs including one that was cracked on the side and the filament burned out into a yellowish powder on the envelope inside, and they all work (see photo above in reply)!  That burnt bulb was the jackpot light.  I ran the driver test again, and it came on for a second each cycle.

  In less than an hour, I'm placing more orders for additional parts needed to get my machine going: RAM chips, hopper motor, resistors, reset lock (they didn't give any keys at time of purchase; the other lock I have is not long enough to go through the wooden and metal wall), jackpot bell.  I couldn't find the buzzer.

UPDATE #6: more parts came in: hopper motor, fuses, resistors, bell, key-switch lock.  The hopper motor I received turns without jamming!  I also measured the wire winding and it was the same rating as mine, 6.4 ohms.  Hmm.  I've decided to cut off Q2 TRIAC from the hopper board.  This design was cheap and poor to disable the motor--more like -permanently- disabling it!  Put in the brand new fuse and put everything back together.  I ran the hopper test and the motor worked!  But, it worked only for a short time.  Going back to the coins-out switch issue previously, I replaced 2 resistors that had suspicious ratings.  I tested them again and I'm still getting a short!  OK, now I go to the tri-state hex inverter chip, the chip that reads switches from, and did a quick test.  One of the pins is shorted.  According to the schematics, it's the input for the coins-out switch on the hopper.  Great!  Now I need a new chip! 

The bell I received can only "ding".  Not the right one.  So, I'm selling it. 

As for the key-switch lock, the length of the cam is too short.  Damn!  With at microswitch with lever mounted on a protruded metal part that is held by the lock's nut, I can't use it; there are no holes to mount the microswitch directly onto the metal wall.   

I'm not sure why there's a delay for the memory chips.  Everything else came.  I don't need the extra hopper motor anymore.  Anyone want one?

UPDATE #7:  :204- the memory chips FINALLY arrived!  I replaced both of them and the clear chip.  Ran it once, turned off and replaced the original PROM back into the machine and turned it on.  "  .. 1"  UGH!!!  What could possibly be doing this?!?!  After the frustration moment, I can probably bet it's the I/O board with that defective chip detecting the coins-out switch.  If it isn't, I will try replacing the ribbon cable, then the MPU board or spend additional time to see if there are any defective chips on the MPU board.  I tried re-seating them before and nothing changed.  I previously placed an order for those input chips, so I am waiting for the shipment to arrive.

On the plus side, I decided to give the bell a try.  It has the correct pin-out for that four-pin connector and there is about 6VAC that the bell needs, so I gave it shot.  I ran the test, and it vibrated!  I forgot that I am dealing with AC power, not the DC power used in pinball machines.

UPDATE #8: I've decided to mess around with the hopper driver board.  I cut away the TRIAC that is supposed to disable the hopper motor.  It was a bad design, so I was not going to replace it.  I put it back to together and put it back into the machine.  I ran the test and the motor ran!  But, only for a short time.  The MPU immediately picked up an error and stopped the hopper.  I tried the switch test again and I couldn't get a response from the coins-out switch.  Then, I waited for the input chips I ordered earlier--one week later!  Crap.  I was not going to dwell how slow mail is when it was near Christmas time.  I took the I/O board out, took the affected chip out, put in a chip socket (in case I somehow blew another chip), and returned the I/O board into the machine.  I put in a new input chip in its new socket, turned it on and ran the hopper test.  The motor ran longer!  It picked up my coins and it counted 10 times and shut off!  Awesome!  But, that didn't solve my problem with this error-code 1 I keep seeing. 

Now, I'm still stumped as to why the key switch is still not working.  I removed the P1 chip which allows the machine to self-test the MPU board.  I turned it on and it cycled "6.5.4.3.2.1." and "8.8.8.8.8.8." until I push the test switch.  Going back to the manual, it will show the "key" switch when it's active.  I ran the test switch again.  I did see that the coins-out hopper switch is functioning, door switch now displays a number, but not the key switch.  So, I went back to the schematics and wiring diagram after turning it off.  Then, I tested the key switch to see if it works.  It did.  Then I did a continuity test from the switch to the I/O board and it is good.  The resistors showed no issues (or variances), so it's gotta be another bad input chip.  I grabbed two 8-pin sockets since I ran out the 16-pin socket, removed the chip that reads the key switch, put in the sockets and returned the I/O board back into the machine.  Then, I grabbed another input chip and put it into its socket.  I turned on the machine and now it's showing "7 1  .0.0 0 " and one pair of arrows light up on the jackpot sign!  SUCCESS!  No more code-1 power-up error!  So, it WASN'T a RAM error.  It was a critical input error and the key switch was affecting the power-up sequence on the 2000 model!  I put back in the reels assembly, plugged the connectors in and turned it back on.  It's still reading "7 1  .0.0 0 ".  Hmmm.  Can there be an issue with the opto boards at the reels?  Is the opto interface board bad or am I dealing with yet another bad input chip on the I/O board?  Guess I'll find out soon when I have more time.  Getting there!!

(It turned out to be one connector I forgot to plug in by accident)

UPDATE #9: Yep, I forgot to plug in the last connector on the I/O board.  NOW, the machine comes up with a 50 on the left side and 000 on the right side of the display.  Turned out that the 2nd input chip that detects the key-reset switch was actually at fault.  I ran a few games and it is working!  Except the right reel glitches when it was supposed to stop. 

I was also able to set up the progressive jackpot display adjustments but still nothing on the displays and no sounds either.  I went back to the schematics once more only to find out that Bally reversed the groups of pins between the two connectors.  So, everything on the left side from the left connector is on the opposite side on the right connector.  I'm not sure if this was a special feature Bally was using, but it certainly wouldn't work with a standard ribbon connector.  I took apart the ribbon cable from the connector and tried a simple reverse.  It did not work because it basically grabbed the same wires from the first time.  Then, I cut each pair of wires and reversed them on the DIP connector (see photo) and put the top cover on them.  I turned on the machine and it showed numbers on the jackpot display!  YES!  I ran a game and the sound board started playing sound effects!  SWEET!  Still the right reel was not stopping so I had to take it apart and remove the gluey lubricant.  I somehow lost the E-ring but borrowed one from another elbow of the stop assembly for now.  I used a wire-tie, the one we use to tie bags, and temporarily put on the borrowed area until I get a fresh order of E-rings.

The machine is now 95% working!

see how it runs: (this is the long version)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXb4V32q5rE


Up-close quick videos:

(jackpot displays incrementing and one pull)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUnVzdii8fA

(winning pull)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK4hFqJnmQY

(electro-mechanical jackpot displays manually cleared and start-up after powering on)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcV1aDbhT_o


just a few things left: replace the key-lock for the reset key switch, 3-position circular lock for door (keys were lost at time of purchase) and coin lock assembly.  Maybe I'll find a way to electrically clear the coin jam in the coin mech since the machine has a switch at the coin-reject button.  There's nothing to clear the jam right now.  The lever is not long enough to push the reject section of the coin acceptor.

SURPRISE!  :72-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6gD43CNQJc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6gD43CNQJc)