New Life Games Tech Forums

Need help with this one.  When I got it the hopper just ran continuously.  I purchased a hopper board from Barry and now that stopped hopper from running continuously.

I checked all fuses and they are good.  Battery is 4.04 volts.  I reseated all connectors/eproms on the boards.

When power is turned on the divert er below coin mech plugs in, the solenoid for handle (near door) pulls in.  the "tilt", "coin accepted" and 'deposit coin" lights are light.

the "test" and "reset" buttons do not reset tilts or bring up test numbers in display.

Help, what's next step?

another picture

pull the hopper and reel mech out of machine and power up - silll have the tilt light?  check the io board for any burnt areas.  are you getting any display? 

Pulled hopper and reels out.  Tilt/coin in/deposit coin lights still on.  Which board is the I/O?
Thanks

The I/O board is the one on the back wall behind the reels.

I don't see any burnt places but someone has made some solder repairs that look a little rough

Forgot to mention the displays are blank.

I've still not be able to fix this machine on my own.  I've checked and rechecked fuses, reseated all connectors and eproms.  For the most part when I turn on the slot it has the tilt/coin accepted/deposit coin lights on with nothing on the display.  Once or twice I have had the lights go off with a number in the display (I think it was an 8). 
If you know where I can get an i/o board or possibly have this one checked/repaired please let me know.

thanks
Bob

Help, any suggestion or should I just give up on this one?
thanks
Bob

If your not getting any display the I would look at the MPU board.
Check the small memory board and the mounting pins on the MPU.
Is there any sings of acid damage to the small memory board?
Are the pins on the MPU cracked at the solder joint?

Just wondering, is it possible to substitute that E1000 MPU board with a newer, E2000, and just swap out the EPROMs?

Yes you can upgrade to a E2000 board ,but I'm not sure on the chips.
Most E2000 boards have 3 "M" chips and 1 or 2 "P" chips.
Barry (Foxsslots) is the one to know how to make it work.

the small board looks good, better than most I've seen, no acid damage.  the battery is reading 4.04, what should it read?

It is a 3.6 volt Ni Cad battery
So 4.04 volts is OK
Did you check the pins where they solder into the MPU board?

Have you checked the power supply? You also might want to check and make sure that the 4 Mhz clock if running. This would require
you to have an oscilloscope. With out the clock running the CPU chip will not run so nothing will work.

proten: the pins and solder joints looked good, best I can remember, but will recheck tomorrow.
dhellis: I haven't checked the power supply but will do so tomorrow.

there was a leg broken on one of the eproms, I soldered a new one on.  I've done this before without a problem.

thanks for the suggestions and help, hopefully this machine will be back to life soon.

I wrote a procedure for bench testing the power supplies and placed it on one of our other members websites. You can check it out
when you have time. There are also procedures for testing the reel reader cards

http://www.coinslots.com/product/repairs/repair-tips/ (http://www.coinslots.com/product/repairs/repair-tips/)

thanks dhellis

checked the power supply and I believe it is ok, here are the readings UR 9.8v, ZC 6.8v and +5 is 4.99

I agree, the power supply is OK.. The display has a cable that runs to J1 on the MPU borad. J1 is located at the to right had side
of the board next to the power connector. You may have a bad cable, bent pin or something else keeping the display from
lighting up.. We need the display to read any error codes so should get this working first.

Still working at this machine with no luck.  I'm leaning toward the i/o board being bad.  If I push around on it contacts will pull in and drop out.  I can see where some one has replace some components.
Board number P2948-303 AS-29080-56004 80.  I may look at buying one

still opening to suggestions.

thanks
Bob

I have had connection issues on the MPU boards and in about 95% of the cases the bad connection was on one of the pins on the IC's that
generate the most heat. For the I/O board this would be the 2 5 volt regulators (U1, U2) one of the 5 8T98 buffers (U8, U11, U14, U16, U17)
the bipolar prom (82S123, U10)

If you are handy with a soldering I would touch up the pins on these chips and see if that resolves your problem.
Of course the Triac's Q1 thru Q32 also will generate heat but you should be able to determine which might have the problem by grasping each one
and moving it slightly. If something changes then resolder the connection on that (those) triac(s)

is there anyone out there that checks/repairs these boards?  I know a few of the triac's have been replaced, one was loose and I repaired the solder joint.  Soldering these boards is not my cup of tea.
thanks

I sent the boards (MPU & I/O) and the power supply out for repairs.  There were minor problems that were corrected.  I installed boards/power supply this morning.  Here's status:
Power on
TILT light is on
3 columns of 4 lights (behind 1st, 2nd and 3rd coin are flashing in the top box
press reset on hopper, lights in top box quit blinking and tilt light foes off for about 2 seconds, then back on/flashing
code 50 on door (door open)


Pull reel mech out:
hit reset, lights quit flashing, tilt goes off, deposit coin lights
diverter below coin acceptor doesn't pull in

pressing test button on hopper has no effect.
Bob

thanks for your help

Just curious, have you tried the other MPU board into this machine? You would need to change the M7 chip to get it to pay properly
but all you really want to find out is if swapping the boards alleviates the other problems.

A board may be tested and repaired and check out fine on the tester but remember that is a controlled
environment so things may be different in real life.

Try the swap and let me know.

The error code 50 is desired result with a door open. You might have some dirty connections causing the other problems.

Thanks Dan,  I'll try the 2nd board tomorrow.

I found that I had the ribbon cable between the MPU and I/O on wrong.

power on:
tilt, insert coin and coin accepted lights are flashing
bell is ringing
hopper is jerking a small amount every second or two (moving but really slot)

I've tried 2 different hopper boards (1 is the replacement type I purchased from  Foxslots.

I bench tested the hopper (connected 110V directly to hopper motor) and it runs fine.

I feel like I'm getting close to repairing this one, at least I hope so.

Is this jerking apparent with both MPU boards? if so then try swapping I/O boards. If the jerking continues then
you may wish to check the switches on the hopper as well as the hopper brake

I believe that the slot is trying to complete a payout.  If I could find a way to complete/clear the payout it would help determine if the problem was confined to the hopper/board.
I will try swapping out i/o boards tomorrow.

is there a way to complete payout???? 

thanks
Bob

You can flip the coin switch repeatedly - assuming the coin switch is working properly. Flick the roller upwards as if there were a coin passing thru the slot. If you do it too many times, the machine will code, then you reset it.

This is a good way to determine a bad coin switch. If flicking the lever doesn't have any effect, your problem has to do with the switch making the connection to the logic, thru the rear connection and so on.

I tried pressing coin switch at least 100 times,  bell still ringing and hopper is jerking. 

When I turn on power this is what I have:
Diverter below coin acceptor pulls in
Coil to release Hanke pulls in, I can pull handle but reels lock up real fast  ( before spinning) and handle will not return.
The tilt, coin accepted and deposit coin lights are light.

Thanks for the help guys.  I must just be overlooking something.

can some one verify which way the ribbon cable connect between i/o and mpu?  There is a red line on one side of the cable, I've tried it with red up on both and w/red down. 
thanks for your help and time with this.
Bob

(http://www.ramegoom.com/john/E2000/ribbon_cables_E2000.jpg)

thanks remegoom for the pictures, my i/o is the same as yours but the connection on the mpu is located vertically and in a slightly different spot.  maybe some one else can confirm connection to mpu.
thanks
Bob

Looking at the MPU board there is an IC located between the socket and the dip switch. Look closely at the IC and you will see a small notch
(u shape) this indicates that pin 1 of the IC is the top left pin. The red stripe of the cable should be placed so it is closest to this IC

The I/O board you can also look to see the notches on the IC's, in this case they are all point towards the top of the board (as oriented
in your photo) the red stripe of the cable should also be pointing in this direction.

This seems to be opposite of what ramegoom is showing

thanks Dan, I'm pretty sure that's how I have it but I'll double check in the next day or two.
karma to all that have helped

dhellis, I am going to check the machine to see if it' s right. I just opened one machine for those pic's, didn't verify it...

Thanks

I am wondering why my other post didn't show up, the one where I realized that my cables are built wrong. Ramegoom, I think your
photos are correct, just looks odd to see pin 1 on the socket with a different orientation than the IC's.

So I took my ohm meter and an MPU board, pin 1 is BD0 which comes from pin3 of U8 so the red stripe on the MPU board
goes DOWN

Next I did the same on an I/O board and Pin 1 of that socket (J5) is attached to pin 3 of U17 so the red stripe on the I/O board
goes DOWN

The MPU board in your picture (ramegoom) is an E2000 board, the socket is oriented differently but I was also able to determine
this by the DK03 transistor and 2 watt resistor up by the display socket.

On the E1 MPU board you would rotate the I/O socket 90 degrees to the right.

I suppose the beveled edge of the socket always lines up with pin 1, which always lines up with the red stripe.  That's probably the best way to spell it out.

That and I noticed for the first time a white half circle at the bottom of the sockets. Geesh, I must be getting
old not to have seen that before

I've been extremely busy the last few days and have not had an opportunity to work on this project.  Hope to do so early next week.
thanks
Bob

Just mounted the repaired mpu and i/o boards. 

With reel assembly out I can get the machine to reset (tilt light goes off, coin diverter is pulled in, deposit coin light is light.
As soon as I put reel assemble in the coin diverter will open and the lights in the top box start flashing.
I can not get the tilt to clear until I remove the reel assemble.

With the reels out and the tilt cleared if I flip the coin in switch the coin diverter will open and tilt light comes back on.

Pushing the test switch does not enter the test menu.

Any suggestions
Thanks
Bob

Have you checked the two switches on the left hand side of the reel mechanism? The top switch is the Arm Switch and is normally open
and closes when the arm is pulled. The lower switch is the kick switch and is normally closed. It opens when the arm is pulled and
then closes as the handle is released.

You can test these by running test 3 and when the kick switch is operated you will see the 010 code in the window and 020 for the
arm switch. While I'm at it code 001 is the coin switch, 002 is the hopper switch 008 the door hinge switch.

Dan you were dead on, the Arm Switch was wired wrong, normally closed, i moved the lead to make it normally open and it now accepts coins.
I do have several problems that I need to address.  I need the 1/2 gear (it has some teeth missing) and the bushings for it).  I also need a hopper.  I'll be putting a post in the classified shortly

thanks again for all that helped with this repair.  Thanks to dhellis for repairing the mpu, i/o and power supply.  I suggest you contact dhellis if you have boards that need to be tested or repaired.
Bob

YIPPEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!

OK, moving on to the other issues:
I now have it accepting coins and the reels spinning and stopping (had to replace 2 reel readers).

It does not pay off properly.
I ran test 5 and the 2 attached pictures show the actual reel position.  Pic 1 meter reads 1.2.4.1. . . Pic 2 metere reads 1.4.5.2. . .Does anyone know the codes for the symbols? (7, bar, orange, plum, bell, cherry)

I also ran test 6 and reading is 500788, is this correct for E-1090-1?

thanks
Bob

The game eprom is correct for the E1090-1, the matching reel strips would be M231-28, 29, 30

The code 7 should be 3 bars

*Edited*

C= Cherry
1 = Orange
2 = Plum
3 = Bell
4= Melon
5= 1 bar
6= 2 bars
7= 3 bars

Hi Dan,
500788 is the correct chip number?
not sure that I understand what you mean about code 7 should be 3 bars.
In the first pic the meter reads 1 2 4 1 (it's my understanding the the 1 = payline 1, 2 is the symbol on reel 1, 4 is the symbol on reel 2 and 1 is the symbol on reel 3.  Do you know what the symbol codes are?

thanks
Bob

Your assumption is right.

1 is the first pay line, then 2, 4, 1 are the symbols that should be showing. I just realized that I took the codes off of my E809
which has a label. I would think that these are standard but maybe not because none of those are what is showing in your
window. The list also does not show anything for the '7' symbol

Bob,  not all the games are standard, best way to determine what is real and what is bad:  pull the reel mech out about half way, now reach in the back of the reel mech and move the reel stop out of the way (don't lock it in place) now move the reel to align the cherries on the first two reels( then let the locking stop lock the reel in that position), you should see a small circle on the correct reader, then go through and do that for each symbol, and you should be able to determine which symbol corresponds to what number for that machine.

Hope this helps

Jim

OK got it this time....

reels 1 and 2 were reversed, the strips were not located properly on any of the reels.  These took several hours of adjusting strips because I wasn't sure where to start strips on the reels.   IGT has a notch but these don't.  Thanks to Jim who talked me through the strips problems.

thanks again to all that have offered help.
Bob

You mean this puppy is running properly now? Great,  now you can enjoy your golf...

still need a few parts (hopper and 1/2 gear) to replace the ones I borrowed to test this one with.   If anyone knows someone with some parts please let me know.